Car Buying Help

Palum · Oct 3, 2015

Contis are some of my favorite A/S tires. You can get more specific/capable summer and winter tires but I've never been disappointed by Continental unlike Pirelli, Firestone, Goodyear, etc. It's funny putting on real tires after shitty OEMs can make you feel like it's a new car.

Sludig · Oct 3, 2015

For my 2015 Tundra I just got. Not planning on lifting or anything, though sounds like just about everyone is playing with offset and spacers to get the rowdy rims and tires on there...? I think for now I'll plastidip oem wheels black for the bargain sake of it now. Then later probably keep those wheels if I decide it's worth doing a set of winter/summer tires. In my VW R32 I always had some expensive all seasons that worked fine in Colorado winters. (A few good storms last a few days otherwise usually one day or snow and dries up.)

I hear a lot about the Toyo AT/2 tires, any other specific recommendations? In 4wd think all seasons gonna be fine, or in a bigger ish truck I really need winter? Probably best consulting my gun forum, just sad that I wasn't that impressed with the Tundra/toyota specific forums I found.

Jysin · Oct 3, 2015

New BFG KO2 tires are beast year round, but kind of pricey.

All-Terrain T/A KO2 | BFGoodrich Tires

Sludig · Oct 3, 2015

$244 on discount. Not sure if cheaper elsewhere. Tirebuyer(?) Didnt show any available in my size. I maybe hit the wrong thing but tirerack almost acted like it didnt fit. Barring tack on fee's I'm forgetting, not that much different than the stupid 18's Continental Pro contact or whatever were on my R32, usually was like 1100 ish complete set and installed.

Look good from the features they describe. Will add it to my short list thank you.

Right now they are Bridgestone Dueler H/T 684-II's.

Picasso3 · Oct 3, 2015

The two local tire shops i called were cheaper on Continentals installed than tire rack after shipping.
This surprised me.

Palum · Oct 3, 2015

Sludig_sl said:
For my 2015 Tundra I just got. Not planning on lifting or anything, though sounds like just about everyone is playing with offset and spacers to get the rowdy rims and tires on there...? I think for now I'll plastidip oem wheels black for the bargain sake of it now. Then later probably keep those wheels if I decide it's worth doing a set of winter/summer tires. In my VW R32 I always had some expensive all seasons that worked fine in Colorado winters. (A few good storms last a few days otherwise usually one day or snow and dries up.)

I hear a lot about the Toyo AT/2 tires, any other specific recommendations? In 4wd think all seasons gonna be fine, or in a bigger ish truck I really need winter? Probably best consulting my gun forum, just sad that I wasn't that impressed with the Tundra/toyota specific forums I found.

You should just do it right if you are thinking about widening the wheelbase, buy wheels with the correct offset/backspacing and stay away from giant spacers/adapters.

Also, some A/T and M/T are terrible in snow. Combining hard compounds + packed snow in the deep treads is a recipe for hockey pucks. Make sure you get ones that are truly A/S or real winter tires.

Palum · Oct 3, 2015

Picasso_sl said:
The two local tire shops i called were cheaper on Continentals installed than tire rack after shipping.
This surprised me.

I haven't really seen tire rack be competitive in years unless you are buying wheels and having them m/b and drop shipped. You either pay ridiculous prices for m/b at a tire shop nearby and lose the $50 you saved or save $50 with tire deals at a retailer.

Lejina · Oct 4, 2015

Sludig_sl said:
F In 4wd think all seasons gonna be fine, or in a bigger ish truck I really need winter?

4wd helps at ton to get you moving but doesnt do anything for you for braking or taking a turn on slippery roads. Every winter after a bad snowfall or icy spell, the ditch on my way to work is lettered with big ass pickup trucks who thought they were invincible.

opiate82 · Oct 4, 2015

Lejina_sl said:
4wd helps at ton to get you moving but doesnt do anything for you for braking or taking a turn on slippery roads. Every winter after a bad snowfall or icy spell, the ditch on my way to work is lettered with big ass pickup trucks who thought they were invincible.

I agree with the braking, but disagree with the turning. You know how to use your 4wd correctly it most definitely can help you turn.

koljec_sl · Oct 4, 2015

Sludig_sl said:
I hear a lot about the Toyo AT/2 tires, any other specific recommendations? In 4wd think all seasons gonna be fine, or in a bigger ish truck I really need winter? Probably best consulting my gun forum, just sad that I wasn't that impressed with the Tundra/toyota specific forums I found.

Toyo AT2s should be good. I've got a set of 32" on my 79 F150 4x4. For snow and ice you want narrow. 9" would be good, 11" would be too much. You also want 200 to 300 pounds in the bed, right above the axle.

Springbok · Oct 8, 2015

Question car bro's - Yesterday I ran into the BMW dealership for an oil change in my wifes old X1, saw a used (8k miles 2015 X5) at what I thought was a good price. Thought I'd for grins get a trade in price on the X1 towards the X5 (again, for grins). This was at 11:30. I had a tee time at 2:30 - went through the laborious process of negotiating, eventually coming to a reasonable conclusion. Came home, surprised the wife, she was happy blah blah blah. Fast forward to today - get a call from the finance whore at BMW dealer stating that the financing printed on the contract which I and dealer signed stated 3.79%, but they were only able to find someone (either BMW/Wells Fargo/etc) for 4.9% essentially jacking up the monthly payment a few bucks. It's trivial, but to me that isn't the point. The point is, I signed a fucking contract w/ a printed interest rate before walking out of the dealer yesterday. Do I have a leg to stand on, or is it a deal of basically "accept the new terms" and sign a new contract at new terms? Do you guys think this deal could be considered null and void if the dealers front end isn't willing to just eat that cost (whatever it is - something like $1.5k or some shit). I told her I wasn't going to do it - basically was a prick and told her if that was the fucking case - A) you guys are dumb fucks and B) I was already having second thoughts anyways (not true) so this is a blessing in disguise - essentially if they won't keep to the terms of the agreement, I'll just bring the pos back and buy one somewhere else.

What say you FOH?

koljec_sl · Oct 8, 2015

Springbok_sl said:
What say you FOH?

Is there fine print on the financing doc that says something about the rate being contingent upon bank approval?

Not sure what your credit score is or the term, but claiming that 4.9% is the best they can do sounds like bullshit.

Tell them to make it work as signed, or return the X1 to you detailed.

opiate82 · Oct 9, 2015

Springbok_sl said:
Question car bro's - Yesterday I ran into the BMW dealership for an oil change in my wifes old X1, saw a used (8k miles 2015 X5) at what I thought was a good price. Thought I'd for grins get a trade in price on the X1 towards the X5 (again, for grins). This was at 11:30. I had a tee time at 2:30 - went through the laborious process of negotiating, eventually coming to a reasonable conclusion. Came home, surprised the wife, she was happy blah blah blah. Fast forward to today - get a call from the finance whore at BMW dealer stating that the financing printed on the contract which I and dealer signed stated 3.79%, but they were only able to find someone (either BMW/Wells Fargo/etc) for 4.9% essentially jacking up the monthly payment a few bucks. It's trivial, but to me that isn't the point. The point is, I signed a fucking contract w/ a printed interest rate before walking out of the dealer yesterday. Do I have a leg to stand on, or is it a deal of basically "accept the new terms" and sign a new contract at new terms? Do you guys think this deal could be considered null and void if the dealers front end isn't willing to just eat that cost (whatever it is - something like $1.5k or some shit). I told her I wasn't going to do it - basically was a prick and told her if that was the fucking case - A) you guys are dumb fucks and B) I was already having second thoughts anyways (not true) so this is a blessing in disguise - essentially if they won't keep to the terms of the agreement, I'll just bring the pos back and buy one somewhere else.

What say you FOH?

It is a pretty typical dealership bait-and-switch move to up the financing after you've taken the car home. Most of them have language that says "we have 3 days to secure financing for you, rate is not guaranteed, blah blah blah." They are banking on the fact that once you have driven off the lot you'll just accept it. What I'm not 100% sure of is if the paperwork you signed basically said you'd pay whatever interest rate they come back with and/or if there is any sort of cooling-off period in your state or not.

This is why I always go in with a pre-approval from my CU. If they try that I just say "fine, I'll be down with a check from my bank" and usually they cave. You can try to talk to your bank to see if they can cover the loan at a better rate.

Burnesto · Oct 9, 2015

They're fucking you on that interest rate. Whatever bank they're using is probably at 2% and they're going to make money on the extra fucking they served up.

It's known as a yo yo sale or yo yo financing by the way.

Picasso3 · Oct 9, 2015

God damn western sky financial can beat that rate I'd take the car back and provide them incentive not to be crooked pieces of shit in the future.

Cad · Oct 9, 2015

Springbok_sl said:
Question car bro's - Yesterday I ran into the BMW dealership for an oil change in my wifes old X1, saw a used (8k miles 2015 X5) at what I thought was a good price. Thought I'd for grins get a trade in price on the X1 towards the X5 (again, for grins). This was at 11:30. I had a tee time at 2:30 - went through the laborious process of negotiating, eventually coming to a reasonable conclusion. Came home, surprised the wife, she was happy blah blah blah. Fast forward to today - get a call from the finance whore at BMW dealer stating that the financing printed on the contract which I and dealer signed stated 3.79%, but they were only able to find someone (either BMW/Wells Fargo/etc) for 4.9% essentially jacking up the monthly payment a few bucks. It's trivial, but to me that isn't the point. The point is, I signed a fucking contract w/ a printed interest rate before walking out of the dealer yesterday. Do I have a leg to stand on, or is it a deal of basically "accept the new terms" and sign a new contract at new terms? Do you guys think this deal could be considered null and void if the dealers front end isn't willing to just eat that cost (whatever it is - something like $1.5k or some shit). I told her I wasn't going to do it - basically was a prick and told her if that was the fucking case - A) you guys are dumb fucks and B) I was already having second thoughts anyways (not true) so this is a blessing in disguise - essentially if they won't keep to the terms of the agreement, I'll just bring the pos back and buy one somewhere else.

What say you FOH?

Take it back.

Springbok · Oct 9, 2015

Cheers guys, going to grab the contract from home to read fine print - but the whole thing just leaves a shitty taste in my mouth. Appreciate the advice

Picasso3 · Oct 9, 2015

Dealers had a thing here where they'd call you a few days after the sale and say they made a mistake not charging for an option and they were going to lose their jobs etc. Any time they make a " mistake"and you end up paying more, go nuclear.

Burnesto · Oct 9, 2015

This is gonna get good. Watch them claim the trade-in is already gone when he wants to walk away from the deal.

Fifey · Oct 9, 2015

opiate82_sl said:
It is a pretty typical dealership bait-and-switch move to up the financing after you've taken the car home. Most of them have language that says "we have 3 days to secure financing for you, rate is not guaranteed, blah blah blah." They are banking on the fact that once you have driven off the lot you'll just accept it. What I'm not 100% sure of is if the paperwork you signed basically said you'd pay whatever interest rate they come back with and/or if there is any sort of cooling-off period in your state or not.

This is correct, they pull this move everyday cause most people drive off the lot and are in love with their new car and don't want to go backm

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