Car ?'s
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Sludig
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Here I go
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So got the new tank in today, took about a hour with my kid, he did the majority of the work, good ladd. Anyway still no start. Checked into it some more and were not getting any spark. Fuel is all nice 30+psi so thats not the issue. But still needed to replace that leaky ass old thank so it was not all in vein the OG owner said if you filled it up more than like 1/2 it was fucked and leaked and you know leaking gas next to hot shit like exhaust is a definite no-no.
So went out and got a new coil pack, still wont start so good news is thats new now, lol. Did some digging on youtubes and there is some "crank case sensor" that goes bad. Basically makes the computer think no RPM so no spark. So I guess thats next on the list. I will get this mo-fo running. All these shitty sensors everywhere like god damn. The smart thing to do is get one of those obs sensors on this thing but the one I have, granted cheap one, absolutely did not throw any codes out so IDK wtf, lol. So there is that sensor and I guess another cam sensor on top of the engine that is prone to go bad too. So if the first one does not work I guess its on to the second. These parts are thankfully not expensive and not TOO big of a deal to change out. Im at about $350 into this thing now? Not too bad so far. Even if I have to throw another grand at it it will be worth it. Blue book has this thing at $4K give or take with the mileage and condition if not more.
Once I get this thing running thats about it. It has relatively new breaks, new break lines my brother in law did on it, newer tires. So its good to go.
So went out and got a new coil pack, still wont start so good news is thats new now, lol. Did some digging on youtubes and there is some "crank case sensor" that goes bad. Basically makes the computer think no RPM so no spark. So I guess thats next on the list. I will get this mo-fo running. All these shitty sensors everywhere like god damn. The smart thing to do is get one of those obs sensors on this thing but the one I have, granted cheap one, absolutely did not throw any codes out so IDK wtf, lol. So there is that sensor and I guess another cam sensor on top of the engine that is prone to go bad too. So if the first one does not work I guess its on to the second. These parts are thankfully not expensive and not TOO big of a deal to change out. Im at about $350 into this thing now? Not too bad so far. Even if I have to throw another grand at it it will be worth it. Blue book has this thing at $4K give or take with the mileage and condition if not more.
Once I get this thing running thats about it. It has relatively new breaks, new break lines my brother in law did on it, newer tires. So its good to go.
Burns
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No codes is kinda weird, but your kid is getting some mechanical experience, so maybe it's for the best.
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Kobayashi
Vyemm Raider
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The only time I've encountered a no start without a single dtc is on a vehicle where a vacuum line was disconnected. Your code reader likely is only going to be pulling regulated codes from the powertrain, which should be sufficient. Other readers would just be able to pull from body, chassis, etc, which might help key in on something, but semi doubtful. I'm a fan of BlueDriver if you wanted to be able to read everything on the cheap.
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Update on the Tarus... So got the new tank in...got new crank sensor, which was a bitch because screws holding it were corroded as fuck, but managed it. New coil pack...Still no start. Only thing left I have any clue on is the cam sensor. Other than that im at a loss. Maybe a bad ground wire? Its the only thought I have. Still not getting spark. Maybe bad computer? But why? Why would that go bad all of a sudden?
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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went out for late night food run, looked kinda not as bright (haven't driven at night in a while), turned on hi beams, that illuminated more area, oops means headlight is out (my leds are so obnoxious, i don't need hi beams, lulz), i should have way more years in life for the subbie, but i attribute it to my wife never turns off the headlights (it just powers down).
Burns
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You may have come to the point where you need specialty tools, or, at least, they will make the job of chasing gremlins much easier.
Skimming back over your old posts, I didn't see anything about a tune up? You could replace plugs and wires or you could test them (you have to take them all off, to replace them, so might as well test them):
You should be able to use the voltmeter to test everything. Start with the wire to the distributor cap, then if that's getting electric, test the cap itself. If that passes, pull each wire and test them. If that passes, pull the plugs and test them while also checking if they are fouled up.
If you didn't do a tune up, probably inspect the plugs first; they are easy to test with a voltmeter, if I remember right.
Sludig
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That's the market at large guy for anything remotely desirable. And tundra/tacoma's hold value well. 21 extra desirable to some as the last/newest of the last gen before the update. I think 2020 might have the most current dash, otherwise get to shopping for a nice low mile 17-20.
Got my 18 SR5 (usually best non nonsense value trim) with tow/4wd ~50k miles for 36k. Sucks when I consider in 2014/15 I got a year old same equipped Tundra with only 6k miles for 33.
TJT
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Rustles me. Most expensive car I ever bought was $12k. My tundra requirements are:
- 2020 or later as I dont want to buy another older car
- CrewCab for the fam.
- 6.5 bed.
- Dark color.
Sludig
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The crew max is a 5.5 bed, you want the double cab for 6.5 (same as I get) the back is still plenty roomy for 6ft adults. Crew is if you want to play monopoly on the floor boards and load big cargo in there. Now that I move bigger stuff I almost want the crew and rely on a trailer.
If you can also find it in the magnetic gray or whatever it looks sharp and hides dirt very well so you arn't constantly worried about washing it as some of their colors gets grungy fast.
Don't be afraid to look for stuff a days drive away and either fly or 2 day it (ideally dealer so you arnt getting boned by a flaky private sale)
TJT
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Burns
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Twas a bit of a joke, I know you will be spending way north of $12k to get those requirements. Hell, it was probably next to impossible to find a ~15 year old Tundra before the pandemic bullshit, for $12k or less.
Trucks in Texas have always been ridiculous and Toyota has the comparative quality to keep getting the higher prices.
