Car ?'s
- Thread starter BeardedWonder
- Start date
- 1,805
- 9,579
I'm trying to stay away from turbos... just need a winter beater and low-maintenance for the wife if I keel over.
- 1
Fucker
Log Wizard
- 11,644
- 26,378
GM products are bad. Poor reliability and resale value is a joke.
KIA has iffy quality. Not nearly as bad as GM, but it is no Toyota.
Ford has them all beat. Highest cost of warranty repairs in the business, and their new SUV's have appalling quality. Engineer at Munro said the exhaust systems on them are unlikely to last until the end of a car loan.
US car industry is nothing more than an expensive taxpayer funded welfare program for union workers and execs who pay themselves far too much money.
I was at the Jeep dealership and had a laugh at their prices. $52k for a base Grand Cherokee and $102k for the new Wagoneer that no one is buying. Ford and GM have similarly laughably priced vehicles.
- 1
Kobayashi
Vyemm Raider
- 580
- 1,325
They're unibody crossovers if you want to get into semantics, but the Nissan Murano and Ford Edge have a 6-cylinder. Genesis GV70 too if you spec it.
Edit: saw your post about naturally aspirated, guess that would just leave the Murano of the three. I'd probably go 4-Runner, but at least you have another option.
- 1
- 1,805
- 9,579
I think the Ford Edge was moving production to China soon if I recall.
The Murano I think I discounted for supposed poor reliability when I researched it awhile back, plus I think they said 2024 might be a 4-cylinder engine, and that's the year we're shooting for.
If it's just between the 2024 4Runner or Passport I just hope they stay NA V6 and the refresh doesn't ruin anything...
ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
- 2,760
- 1,681
Sanrith Descartes
Von Clippowicz
- 41,535
- 107,627
It wont last long. All those dealerships have their floorplan on adjustable rates. This year has just ass fucked them on their inventory carry costs. Those who aren't lowering prices to move off inventory will be eating it or their manufacturer will be offering to help them.
ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
- 2,760
- 1,681
Loser Araysar
Chief Russia Correspondent / Stock Pals CEO
- 75,814
- 150,521
I got 2 separate issues with my car (2010 Hyundai Tucson) that I'm hoping someone can help me figure out.
1. My power locks and windows work intermittently but most of the time they don't. Doesnt matter if I'm using the master controls on the driver side, or the key remote. Some locks will always unlock (driver side) and some almost never will (rear driver side and front passenger side) and some will sometimes (rear passenger). Rear cargo hatch lock doesnt work 95% of the time. Its always fun rolling the dice when you go to the grocery store and wondering if you'll get the hatch open this time or not. Someone told me its the actuators (aka mechanical issue), someone else told me its an electrical issue, etc. - I dont whom to believe and I know the dealership will rape me to "investigate the problem" and then will probably just tell me to replace everyhing and charge me like $2K. Fuck that. Just want to know where to start, maybe I can fix this shit myself.
2. My nav screen went out a couple months ago. Its just black screen. It still works because I can change radio bands and aux mode by pressing the physical buttons next to it, but obviously I cant see any of the touchscreen now. There is faint backlight glow that I can see when I start up the car so I'm wondering if I can just replace the digitizer screen (I have done this in laptops myself) or does the whole thing needs to be removed and replaced.
1. My power locks and windows work intermittently but most of the time they don't. Doesnt matter if I'm using the master controls on the driver side, or the key remote. Some locks will always unlock (driver side) and some almost never will (rear driver side and front passenger side) and some will sometimes (rear passenger). Rear cargo hatch lock doesnt work 95% of the time. Its always fun rolling the dice when you go to the grocery store and wondering if you'll get the hatch open this time or not. Someone told me its the actuators (aka mechanical issue), someone else told me its an electrical issue, etc. - I dont whom to believe and I know the dealership will rape me to "investigate the problem" and then will probably just tell me to replace everyhing and charge me like $2K. Fuck that. Just want to know where to start, maybe I can fix this shit myself.
2. My nav screen went out a couple months ago. Its just black screen. It still works because I can change radio bands and aux mode by pressing the physical buttons next to it, but obviously I cant see any of the touchscreen now. There is faint backlight glow that I can see when I start up the car so I'm wondering if I can just replace the digitizer screen (I have done this in laptops myself) or does the whole thing needs to be removed and replaced.
- 25,424
- 37,545
The problem with removing anything to service it on the Instrument Panel is rough as hell. And its dependent on if the manufacturer made it a "serviceable" part. So depending on the complexity of the design and how it all goes together it might be a service part or not. So you might figure, yeah, display screen, it should be serviceable. LOL, but not all the time. Sometimes it takes disassembly of many parts to get to the fucking screen mounting. And depending on what fasteners they use, like metal clips or screws, sometimes that shit just never fits right the first time you start to disassemble shit. Long gone are the days of taking off a trim panel and taking out your car stereo.
To compound all this bullshit, they now have head impact criteria all IP parts need to adhere to. So basically your screen is probably mounted with some metal brackets to your cross car beam structure. And those brackets are designed in a way that when a head impacts it, it gives a bit. But what makes this shit hard for disassembly is where those fucking brackets are and how hard it is to remove the screws.
IPs these days are like 10,000lbs of shit packed into a 5,000lb container. I would just take the shit to a dealer to deal with honestly.
On your problem with the locks, it sounds like you have a short in the system somewhere. Pretty hard to diagnose. Or it might be a control module thats going wonky. But where that control module is crap shoot. Maybe you could find out on youtube. Sometimes if a problem is widespread, people have made videos about how to fix it. Try there.
To compound all this bullshit, they now have head impact criteria all IP parts need to adhere to. So basically your screen is probably mounted with some metal brackets to your cross car beam structure. And those brackets are designed in a way that when a head impacts it, it gives a bit. But what makes this shit hard for disassembly is where those fucking brackets are and how hard it is to remove the screws.
IPs these days are like 10,000lbs of shit packed into a 5,000lb container. I would just take the shit to a dealer to deal with honestly.
On your problem with the locks, it sounds like you have a short in the system somewhere. Pretty hard to diagnose. Or it might be a control module thats going wonky. But where that control module is crap shoot. Maybe you could find out on youtube. Sometimes if a problem is widespread, people have made videos about how to fix it. Try there.
Last edited:
- 1
Loser Araysar
Chief Russia Correspondent / Stock Pals CEO
- 75,814
- 150,521
Thanks, this is helpful. I miss the days when I could just remove the trim panel, disconnect 2 wires from the radio and swap it out.
Axiel
Molten Core Raider
- 504
- 843
Sounds dumb but have you tried a new battery? A new one often fixes quite a few dumb intermittent problems. Basic battery/alternator/ground check might be a good idea.
- 2
- 25,424
- 37,545
YEah I had that happen once. One of the cores of my battery went to shit, so while it was still producing current the voltage was a bit off and I was getting tons of shit going wrong with electronics in the car. The reason why I know this is it was still pretty new battery so I took it back to whatever the fuck car parts store it was and they tested it, and gave me a new one. And thats wha t the dude told me. core went bad and it was not producing the correct voltage.
Sanrith Descartes
Von Clippowicz
- 41,535
- 107,627
- 1,805
- 9,579
Thanks, ya if they made a 2-row I'd drag in the wife and see if she can reach the pedals, but as I said last page we only want 2-row.
Loser Araysar
Chief Russia Correspondent / Stock Pals CEO
- 75,814
- 150,521
I thought about it, but I've tested my current battery with a voltmeter directly to the terminals, and also the one you plug into cigarette lighter and the battery voltage is fine in both cases.
The other part about the power/lock window issues is that I discovered that issue the day after I drove it off the lot 2.5 years ago. And the battery is still the battery from when I bought it. So maybe it is the battery but I would think that the dealership would have caught the issue and tried something as simple as a battery swap to see if it fixes the issue. Im still kinda pissed they sold me the car this way, but "all sales are final, you're buying it as-is"
The other fix I heard about is to disconnect the battery from the car for a few minutes to "reset it". I tried that last month and it didnt do shit.