Cad
scientia potentia est
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It would have to have absurdly short gearing or like 30hp, cuz otherwise it would definitely exceed 55.
Car ?'s
- Thread starter BeardedWonder
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ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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I assume a person in a similar vehicle could drive along side another vehicle with a newer speedometer. Hypothetically of course.
ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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Some interesting comments on Tesla's recent price cuts/profitability and the rest of the industry.
Lambourne
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Anyone that brings a pickup truck with an empty bed to a pulling contest doesn't know what they're doing. Traction's all about weight, there's a reason even these small aircraft tugs weigh 6-8 tons and that goes up over 50 tons for larger ones you'd use for a 777 or similar. Most only have a little 4 cylinder in em too. Gears and weight get shit moving, nothing else.
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Yeah I imagine the Tesla has a pretty big advantage with the batteries making it so heavy and the center of gravity being low. Those electric motors have crazy low end torque too. It always surprises car people when I tell them the tractor I farm with is only 120 horsepower. It pulls a whole lot better than a 350 horsepower diesel pickup though, as long as you don't want to go more than 15 mph.
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Burren
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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And there will be trucks that can out-pull that Tesla. But, their marketing department won't want to show that.
Fucker
Log Wizard
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Yep. Full torque at 0 RPM. They will win these dumb pull contests every day of the week and twice on sunday.
Demon Hunter
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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So went to start the car and it started wigging out and long story short it died. Checked the battery and sure enough the negative connection was corroded to all hell. Great, no big deal....or so I thought. In the great wisdom of engineers they added an awesome battery sensor to the negative manifold thing..made of plastic...which corroded and basically melted.
SO Ordered a new negative cable with pigtail sensor. My question is, of course the way to really do it right I need to solder and shrink wrap it but I do not have a heat gun. Have solder from redoing the copper in the kitchen. CAN I just do it quick and dirty with desheath twist into each other and wrap in electrical tape (or with a wire nut and wrap)? And should the wires be labeled for red and black as from what I see both wires are white, of course.
it's a 2013 Focus ST.
SO Ordered a new negative cable with pigtail sensor. My question is, of course the way to really do it right I need to solder and shrink wrap it but I do not have a heat gun. Have solder from redoing the copper in the kitchen. CAN I just do it quick and dirty with desheath twist into each other and wrap in electrical tape (or with a wire nut and wrap)? And should the wires be labeled for red and black as from what I see both wires are white, of course.
it's a 2013 Focus ST.
Kobayashi
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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If you're going to use that solder, double check the core. I'm not sure if this is still the case, but my understanding is plumbing typically uses acid core solder, while electrical wiring uses rosin core. It was a no-no to mix the two.
I'm surprised if they sold a pigtail that it wouldn't also include a lug on the other end for mounting to the frame, it's typically not a very long run from the negative terminal.
I think a desheath/twist or wire nut would eventually run into problems from the high vibration environment. I'd probably be most comfortable doing a mechanical butt splice since I'd worry about cooking the insulation or not getting things up to temperature. A crimp of that wire size (I'm assuming between 1 awg and 1/0) would probably require a hydraulic crimper though.
You could do a screw terminal butt splice, but I'd worry about vibration with that too.
IDEAL 4-1/0 AWG Thermo-Shrink Underground Splice Kit 46-402 - The Home Depot
Thermo-Shrink AL/CU Splice Kit is used to provide a reliable, yet simple method of connecting 600-Volt rated cables ranging from 4 AWG up to 1/0 AWG. Heavy wall, adhesive lined heat shrink tubing provides
www.homedepot.com
As for the heat shrink, you'd probably be ok using a lighter.
Demon Hunter
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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I think you missed the part of me wrapping it in electrical tape.If you're going to use that solder, double check the core. I'm not sure if this is still the case, but my understanding is plumbing typically uses acid core solder, while electrical wiring uses rosin core. It was a no-no to mix the two.
I'm surprised if they sold a pigtail that it wouldn't also include a lug on the other end for mounting to the frame, it's typically not a very long run from the negative terminal.
I think a desheath/twist or wire nut would eventually run into problems from the high vibration environment. I'd probably be most comfortable doing a mechanical butt splice since I'd worry about cooking the insulation or not getting things up to temperature. A crimp of that wire size (I'm assuming between 1 awg and 1/0) would probably require a hydraulic crimper though.
You could do a screw terminal butt splice, but I'd worry about vibration with that too.
IDEAL 4-1/0 AWG Thermo-Shrink Underground Splice Kit 46-402 - The Home Depot
Thermo-Shrink AL/CU Splice Kit is used to provide a reliable, yet simple method of connecting 600-Volt rated cables ranging from 4 AWG up to 1/0 AWG. Heavy wall, adhesive lined heat shrink tubing provideswww.homedepot.com
As for the heat shrink, you'd probably be ok using a lighter.
But this is what it looks like:
I just hope it fixes it.
Burns
Avatar of War Slayer
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I bought a heat gun from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale and it worked great for the few electrical shrink wrap things I needed it for. If it's light use, just grab a cheap one, store it wrapped up, back in the box, and it should last a long time.
They change what's on sale monthly (?), so maybe see what March has. At $18 I might be more inclined to try a butane lighter again, but in previous attempts, I would get shitty looking shrink wraps with it.
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
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Harbor freight is great for shit like this. I mean obviously I would not buy this shit if I had a production shop or whatever, but If I need some specific tool for some specific job a few times a year if that? Ive bought finish nail guns there, huge ass power drill I used to stir concrete for concrete countertop, and all sorts of other shit.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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so many uses for a heat gun, used it to thaw out frozen pipes in homeI bought a heat gun from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale and it worked great for the few electrical shrink wrap things I needed it for. If it's light use, just grab a cheap one, store it wrapped up, back in the box, and it should last a long time.
They change what's on sale monthly (?), so maybe see what March has. At $18 I might be more inclined to try a butane lighter again, but in previous attempts, I would get shitty looking shrink wraps with it.
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!www.harborfreight.com
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Denamian
Night Janitor
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moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
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