Grand Forks, North Dakota

Brikker

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So I'm moving here, not just traveling here. Figured I'd use the thread anyway!

I got unofficial confirmation that I'm heading to Grand Forks Air Force Base next; probably leaving in June. Do we have any arctic northerners up in here? I know the winter's are going to be terrrrrrible. I'm from Northern California and have been living in Germany, so mild winters are what I've known!

I know the University of North Dakota is there so I'm going to take my 3 years there and get my Master's done. I'm 28, single, and in the US Air Force so hopefully I won't have any issues meeting some nice northern girls
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I read that it's a population of almost entirely Norwegian descent which is pretty much exactly my type of woman!

As a side note, if anyone is familiar with that type of climate and cars: I have a V8 Dodge Durango (4WD) right now but I've been wanting to get rid of the gas guzzler and get something like a VW GTI or VW Golf TDI. Is that kind of car practical up there? Not really sure what type of snowfall they get, I just know it gets hell-frozen-over levels of cold.

Thanks for all the tips in advance!
 

Faltigoth

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I lived down the highway from Grand Forks in Fargo for several years. Some things:

- Whatever you end up driving, get an engine block warmer put in and never park it overnight in the winter without it being plugged in. It gets cold - like, it will go below freezing sometime in late November/early December and stay there until March. -10, -20, -30 degrees for weeks at a time, and that is not including wind chill. If you don't plug your car in (or keep it in a garage), it *will* freeze and you will be fucked for days while it thaws. As for the type, it doesn't matter much; I drove a Ford Taurus while I was there and it was just fine, they are pro at keeping the roads clear - or keeping people off them if they aren't clear.

- There will be significant snow. The main problem with it is not massive amounts; it is that it doesn't melt. That shit piles up from November/December and then melts all at once sometime in April, which will then give you the glory of worrying about the river flooding - and finding the half-dozen or so bodies that pop up floating down the river after the thaw. That being said, there will be some pretty impressive snowfalls and blizzards, because it is North Dakota and that is what happens there.

- Grand Forks is small, there isn't much going on there, so I hope you like beer. Minneapolis is like 3 hours away; there is your nearest cultural center. The base there is nice, though, like all Air Force bases.

- The women are what you would expect - either norwegian (95% or so), or native american. I am not saying they are the hottest women on earth, but if tall, blonde, and able to kick your ass is your type, there is no shortage.

- Now its been over 10 years since I lived there, but when I was there, shit was inexpensive. I had a giant apartment for like 500 bucks a month on the edge of Fargo, and BAH was extremely generous, so living was pretty easy. When I moved back East, I was appalled at how expensive everything was compared to how shit was in the ND.

- The people are nice. Really nice. There is no crime (probably because its too fucking cold). I think in the 2 years I was there, there was one violent crime.

Look, at the end of the day it is Grand Forks. It is the middle of fricking nowhere, it is cold, and there isn't shit to do. Flat land as far as the eye can see in every direction. Despite that, I loved my time there; the people were great, the beer and smokes were cheap, and if you like a small town atmosphere, there is no better place to be. I still miss it and if my wife ever said to me, you know, I just decided that the cold doesn't bother me much, I would move back there in a heartbeat.
 

Eomer

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Yeah, pretty much any car can be driven in that kind of a climate, if you're in a town/city. Roads get plowed regularly when it snows. If you're on an acreage or out in the country, then that changes things. Good tires are a must, whether you go with regular all seasons or full on winters is up to you and how much you drive.

And the other thing to keep in mind is that even though it's cold, or even because it's so cold, the snowfalls that you see in the middle of the continent tend to be nowhere near as big as what you'll see in the NE or around the Great Lakes. There's not a ton of moisture in the air when it's that cold.
 

Lejina

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Welcome to the great white north. Here are your options:


The block heater.
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Pop out a freezeplug, put the heating element in the hole, put the cord somewhere logical and you're good to go. Heats the liquid coolant of your engine. Quite an energy hog (600W+) so best used with a timer so it starts an hour or two before your morning drive. Some car models don't react too well to the coolant being a different temperature than the rest of the engine/ambient air due to how their computer chip operates. Best to inquire on the appropriate forums to confirm if you're using a newer vehicle.

Oil pan heater
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As illustrated, it's just a pad that you stick under your oil pan. Heats the oil of your engine and if left plugged in long enough, will actually get some heat thru your entire engine block. Less daunting to install than the block heater for the less mechanically inclined. Point to note during the install is to clean the bottom of your oil pan thoroughly to ensure the pad sticks well and to seal it with the provided silicone to make sure no water/oil/grim seeps in between the pan and the pad. Use 100-200W of power pending on the size, so it wont cause your financial ruin if you plug it overnight.

Finally,the battery warmer.
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Best if used in combination with one of the above. Literally an electric blanket for your battery, giving it a lot more crank power when it's really cold outside. Recommended to be used only for those particularly cold days. Plug it in when it's at least below -10C (14F). May actually cook your battery if you use it when it's above freezing, but when you're dealing with -40 temperatures, you will thank the gods for the 20$ you spent on that item. Use 20-50W pending on size, so leaving it plugged in overnight is sensible since it takes quite a bit of time to warm your battery all the way. Sealing it with duct tape to keep the crap out is generally a good plan but not required.
 

Eomer

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Also consider a car starter, which are awesome in the winter. You can also set them to start and run the vehicle for a say 5 minutes every 2 hours or some shit.
 

Faltigoth

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I had Lejina's A (and I believe B) installed, cord hung out the front of my car's grille. They will probably brief you on where to go to get this done when you arrive; the mechanics around Grand Forks will be used to the constant stream of new people coming in and probably do most of their business putting in these things for incoming airmen. Now, I don't know if it is different now, but I would run that plug from my apartment, and I never noticed my electric bill being abnormally large. Of course, I was drunk most of the time and swimming in money as well (thanks BAH!!), so maybe it was bigger than normal and I never noticed. Energy was generally pretty cheap though (along with everything else). You will also have little plug in stands damn near everywhere. Definitely get a long ass industrial size extension cord to keep in your car.
 

Brikker

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Thanks for all the tips fellas. Luckily I'll be moving in probably June, so I'll at least have a brief summer to get settled in before I freeze my ass off :p

I'll just have to find myself a nice little wholesome midwestern girl to keep me warm at night.
 

Eomer

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I had Lejina's A (and I believe B) installed, cord hung out the front of my car's grille. They will probably brief you on where to go to get this done when you arrive; the mechanics around Grand Forks will be used to the constant stream of new people coming in and probably do most of their business putting in these things for incoming airmen. Now, I don't know if it is different now, but I would run that plug from my apartment, and I never noticed my electric bill being abnormally large. Of course, I was drunk most of the time and swimming in money as well (thanks BAH!!), so maybe it was bigger than normal and I never noticed. Energy was generally pretty cheap though (along with everything else). You will also have little plug in stands damn near everywhere. Definitely get a long ass industrial size extension cord to keep in your car.
It's likely that the outdoor power plugs are on a separate circuit that runs on a timer where there's only power intermittently, or from 4am to 8am or something along those lines.
 

Sterling

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North Dakota is no longer a cheap place to live, though being in the military that's not much of an issue. The oil boom in the central/western part of the state has really changed a lot of things about the place, though on the far eastern end of the state it won't affect you quite as much. Also as mentioned it gets fucking cold in the winter.
 

Droigan

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Hahahaha, Grand Forks...

I lived there for a year and a half for college before I moved to another school. I am Norwegian and yes, there are lots of Norwegians there. Or people who say they are by decent.

I haven't lived there since 02, so my information might be a bit outdated, but

- If you like hockey, they have a massive world class hockey stadium there with stairs so high and steep they give vertigo. Do NOT go there drunk. Funded by a crazy old rich guy who might been an old Nazi.

- It is flat. So flat. Bring pictures of hills. If not, on the college grounds, there is a little underpass built under the main road running through the college. It is around 15-20 feet, and people used to snowboard down there. I remember one guy yelling "glide you fuck, glide!!!" before he raged after the 3 second or so glide down the hill.... It is so flat...

- It is very cold during the winter and very humid during the summer, with HUGE mosquitoes that actually sting when they bite you. Get those netting / grid things for your windows. June-July, decent. August-september, humid as hell. October - march, random blizzard territory. I quite literally woke up from sun and shorts weather one day to a feet+ of snow the next. There is a reason nearly every building on the college grounds have underground tunnels connecting them. It gets COLD.

- Friday nights have buck fifty pitchers at Down Under (shit beer in the pitchers, but will get you drunk real cheap). Tuesdays there is a special on Long Island Ice tees in The Edge (they give massive heartburn). I forgot the names of the other places, but every day of the week has a bar with a special on it. Those places will be packed with college students on those days.

- Speedway has cheap and good ribs. It is located not far from Down Under.

- Buffalo Wild Wings... Best restaurant in the town for wings. EDIT: Arguably also the best sports bar.

- Parrots Cave (bar) has chicken wings that rival/exceed the hotness of the Blazing sauce of Buffalo Wild wings, though the wings aren't as good/jucy. You can buy the sauce though.

- There is a potato factory there, that sometimes stinks up the entire town.

- It is close to Canada, so can easily go there for weekend trips.

- Deeks pizza lets you order some great combos for cheap. Buying the sauce from Parrots Cave + Deeks pizza and wings isn't a bad combo.

So, 12 year old outdated info, but that is what I remember
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BrutulTM

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If you have a modern, fuel injected gasoline car you don't need a block heater. It routinely gets to 20 below and colder here and none of my vehicles have heaters in them. They start without hesitation even at 30 below. If you drive a diesel that's a different story but having a block heater in a gas car is a thing of the past as long as your car was made in the last 10 years and your engine coolant is mixed appropriately.
 

Eomer

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If you have a modern, fuel injected gasoline car you don't need a block heater. It routinely gets to 20 below and colder here and none of my vehicles have heaters in them. They start without hesitation even at 30 below. If you drive a diesel that's a different story but having a block heater in a gas car is a thing of the past as long as your car was made in the last 10 years and your engine coolant is mixed appropriately.
I don't agree with you at all. Up here in Alberta, everyone plugs their cars in during the winter, diesel or not. Because when it's -20C or colder at night, if you don't there's a good chance you won't even be able to start your car the next day, and if you do, it will make some pretty horrible sounds for the first minute or two. I don't know if we're all that much colder than Montana or North Dakota in the winter. There's no reason to NOT plug your car in other than the utility costs, and it will make a significant difference in the longevity of your engine.
 

BrutulTM

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Some people plug them in here too, but it's just out of habit because 20 years ago it was necessary. With modern engines it's not. It was -40F here a couple times this winter.
 

Eomer

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If you think that running an engine with minimal lubrication for a minute or two while the oil warms up isn't going to reduce the engine's life, I don't know what to tell you.
 

BrutulTM

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It's not a minute or two, you can see the oil pressure come up in less than a second after you start the car. We're not running 15w40 anymore. 5w20 and such that cars run these days is still flowing even in the cold.
 

Lejina

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I run 5w20 Mobil1 and still I can definitely tell when I plugged in the oil heater vs when I didn't when it's really cold out. It will start either way, but the sound the engine makes tells a lot and even the best of oils get thicker when it's really cold, not to mention that metal shrinks in the cold. In my case, the biggest game changer at really low temperature has been my battery warmer, changed the starter from doing the slow struggle to that snappy cranking sound when it's -30c or below.

We're dealing with regular 1-2 weeks at a time non stop below -30c or -40c here. Still, even if all you have the deal with is the occasional -40 dip, to plug in your car result with a fair bit less stress and wear on your engine overtime.

It's not like this helps only old shitty cars. Everyone plug in their cars here. People move here with no wire hanging out their grill. Then without fail the wires gets installed a month or two in the winter. Never fails. Those things work and do make a difference.
 

Brikker

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Thanks for all the info guys. I've been cruising Craigslist looking at housing options and think I might just try to get roommates. I can save a few hundred in housing allowance each month plus hopefully meet some people quicker/easier. Always the option to find my own place if I want to.

I've had a few people on craigslist tell me that the USAF has a stigma in town which makes it harder to rent/find roommates. Anyone know why that might be or is it just the general asshattery of most young people?
 

BrutulTM

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I couldn't tell you about that town specifically, but in general 18-24 year olds living away from home for the first time aren't most people's first choice as renters and that describes a lot of military folks.
 

Droigan

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I've had a few people on craigslist tell me that the USAF has a stigma in town which makes it harder to rent/find roommates. Anyone know why that might be or is it just the general asshattery of most young people?
College people don't want to room up with people that might be against parties / weed use (which is used by nearly everyone there unless times have changed). You as an adult + military fits right into that.

If I remember correctly the ROTC (or whatever it is called) guys had similar issues when wanting to move out from the dorms, as I think they were subject to possible drug tests? Doubt you will have more luck as an active military member than those guys, not in a roommate situation with regular college students at least.

You might look into seeing if you can room up with ROTC people from the college though, there were quite a lot of them when I was there. Take a look at the boards or web pages for the University of North Dakota, and they might have a separate section for those guys, with some contact info or a forum where you might list wanting to share an apartment.

EDIT:ROTC | UND: University of North Dakota