How long was it before burn in? I am hoping they just credit me the 2500 I paid for the B7A back in 2017 and I can pick up a new model LG Either that or they just replace it with a new model without going through a credit back.
I feel like you need to be pretty negligent to let current iteration of OLED get burn in.
I used my 65" for 6+ hour console sessions regularly with no problem and my other 48" is also used for main screen PC/console and gets 8-12 hours a day regularly both LG.
How long was it before burn in? I am hoping they just credit me the 2500 I paid for the B7A back in 2017 and I can pick up a new model LG Either that or they just replace it with a new model without going through a credit back.
Got the TV feb 2016 and it was the main/only monitor for my PC. Didn't game on it at all until November 2018 when I started playing Vanilla Wow. Probably by Summer 2019 you could see the mini-map burn in.
Jesus H. Christ, people are still talking about me in here?
Anyway, I've got some info to update:
-I did do a self-calibration with the C6 once upon a time. Nothing professional, just did what I could myself.
-I didn't calibrate the BX because I didn't have it long enough.
-I decided I want a G1 instead of a BX because it's better.
-It made more sense to bring the BX back to Best Buy for a quick return and get a G1 than it did to spend time selling my C6 and get a G1.
-I'll calibrate the G1 myself too once I get it, unless I can find a good deal on a professional calibration (which would be worth it for something this expensive)
-I moved the C6 to the spot in the living room where the BX was, and... lo and behold, the C6 doesn't look as good as it did before. I think a lot of it has to do with the room lighting, and the fact that that area gets a lot of sunlight. Wheras the C6 was in an area that didn't have much cross-light or ambient light and the contrast had a lot more chance to pop. So once I put the C6 in the same exact spot the BX was in, it looked exactly like the BX. The curved shape still gives it a little more depth than the flat BX, unless I'm imagining it. Either way I'll go ahead and issue a correction, the C6 doesn't look better than the BX when put in the same situation, it's about the same or at least any difference isn't perceptible. If I had switched their places before, the BX would have been the one with the nicer, popping contrast, or may have even looked better.
-I might need to re-calibrate the C6 for a brighter room now.
B8=C8=E8 (2018), B9=C9=E9 (2019), CX=BX (2020). The panels are identical. The chipsets and software are identical. The features virtually identical. The bezels and audio are different. Location/angle of HDMI ports also vary. For the 2018 models, the C8 had the smallest bezel, but the shittiest speakers.
The issues of older C6 and C7 OLEDs were fixed with the x8 and forward models. Everything since the x8 in tech has been incremental. The screen itself hasn't changed too dramatically. More efficient with a few minor features, like Gsync, Freesync, and some added to previous gen via software updates, like AppleTV.
G1 is the 2021 OLED. The A1 and C1 will very likely be using the same screen, chips, and tech as the G1. Whether you get the C1 or G1, pay to have it tuned. There's a reason there's 400 color settings.
Your BX should at least be identical to your C6 with much less black crushing and noticeably brighter picture when it's called for in the source material. That it's not tells us all we need to know.
Side note, only LG makes OLED panels. Sony, Panasonic, and whoever else are using LG's, with their own bezel, features and software. And their settings, or possible factory calibration, can result in a different "from the store" experience.
What's a good price to pay to have it tuned? Any recommendations for where to do that? I can see if Best Buy would do a tuning for me at reduced cost for buying the thing in the first place, think I remember reading somewhere that they used to do that.
How about you come over with your ISF calibration techniques that have been outdated since RPTV's finally went EOL and know that most people can do this from color patterns in an Xbox tool at this point or leveraging Youtube if they like based on their subjective opinions on picture quality since that will differ for everyone. He is making sure he gets the best bank for his dollar and communicating / asking questions on a forum for what can be confusing for most. If you want I can go on about HDMI bandwidth, 4:4:4/4:4:2. compression algorithms, and whatever the fuck else to make this more confusing for the average joe - I doubt they will notice that leaf in Dolby vision tinted a shade too hair of green or a crushed black due to how the content was originally calibrated.
Upwards of $400, as a professional kit can cost $1800 or more. There's cheaper options.
The Rtings custom calibration settings made my C8 look all fucked up, so, YMMV. Though I think they calibrated a 55", can't recall. The basic suggestions I'd have are to set the picture to Movie Expert mode, Warm2, OLED brightness adjusted to your room, and ensure HDR is turned on for whatever HDMI channel you're using. Basic stuff. Turn off Edge enhancements, reduce Sharp 0-10. Contrast 90. Brightness 50. Oh, and turn off power saving settings besides the auto shut off and Screensaver. Make sure Pixel Refresher is turned on to run when the TV is off.
The color fine tuning can make a difference, but that's when you really need a pro or a tool to accomplish the correct settings.
Jesus H. Christ, people are still talking about me in here?
Anyway, I've got some info to update:
-I did do a self-calibration with the C6 once upon a time. Nothing professional, just did what I could myself.
-I didn't calibrate the BX because I didn't have it long enough.
-I decided I want a G1 instead of a BX because it's better.
-It made more sense to bring the BX back to Best Buy for a quick return and get a G1 than it did to spend time selling my C6 and get a G1.
-I'll calibrate the G1 myself too once I get it, unless I can find a good deal on a professional calibration (which would be worth it for something this expensive)
-I moved the C6 to the spot in the living room where the BX was, and... lo and behold, the C6 doesn't look as good as it did before. I think a lot of it has to do with the room lighting, and the fact that that area gets a lot of sunlight. Wheras the C6 was in an area that didn't have much cross-light or ambient light and the contrast had a lot more chance to pop. So once I put the C6 in the same exact spot the BX was in, it looked exactly like the BX. The curved shape still gives it a little more depth than the flat BX, unless I'm imagining it. Either way I'll go ahead and issue a correction, the C6 doesn't look better than the BX when put in the same situation, it's about the same or at least any difference isn't perceptible. If I had switched their places before, the BX would have been the one with the nicer, popping contrast, or may have even looked better.
-I might need to re-calibrate the C6 for a brighter room now.
Upwards of $400, as a professional kit can cost $1800 or more. There's cheaper options.
The Rtings custom calibration settings made my C8 look all fucked up, so, YMMV. Though I think they calibrated a 55", can't recall. The basic suggestions I'd have are to set the picture to Movie Expert mode, Warm2, OLED brightness adjusted to your room, and ensure HDR is turned on for whatever HDMI channel you're using. Basic stuff. Turn off Edge enhancements, reduce Sharp 0-10. Contrast 90. Brightness 50. Oh, and turn off power saving settings besides the auto shut off and Screensaver. Make sure Pixel Refresher is turned on to run when the TV is off.
The color fine tuning can make a difference, but that's when you really need a pro or a tool to accomplish the correct settings.
You used someone elses settings even though all panels are different? Now you are giving some one else (who has just admitted to being an idiot) generic settings?
In the same room, yes, but not under the same exact conditions. Putting the C6 in the same exact spot has hurt the contrast because of proximity to windows.
In the same room, yes, but not under the same exact conditions. Putting the C6 in the same exact spot has hurt the contrast because of proximity to windows.
It isn't as obvious as it sounds that there would be a difference. Like there's no direct sunlight on the area of the living room where the TV is, it isn't in front of a window, etc. That side of the room just gets a little more ambient lighting than the other side of the room, and even that minor difference makes a difference in how good the contrast looks, so a re-calibration is definitely in order. The gaming room on the other hand has much better ambient lighting so an OLED can really shine in that environment.
Anyway I'm done explaining myself and my terrible life choices in TV calibration, have fun shitting up the thread without me.
Beside, he claimed his 4 year old set was better than his newer one. You even acknowledged that something must be wrong for him to think that
He tried to argue it was because the price was higher on the old set, now it turns out he wasn't displaying them "side by side" as originally claimed and that his two rooms have drastically different lighting conditions
But sure, I'm the idiot, says the guy dishing out other people's calibration settings
Besides, you've missed the point spectacularly.
The guy wanted to upgrade his mid range tv to a one year newer top of the line model.
He got a significant improvement in image just by moving it to a better room, which was my point all along - it wasn't the set at fault
He's unlikely to see as big an improvement in image as the room move to a g1, hence advising him to calibrate the bx
If he can do some refund trickery to make the g1 purchase cost effective then fine
Yes, you should. I'm still waiting for Best Buy to get any in. It isn't even in their system yet.
At the moment if they got one right now I'd be screwed because I've got a portion of my TV money being used for other crypto-related things, which I'm heavily invested in. Had that money ready to go for weeks and eventually had uses for it elsewhere. It'd take days to get it back out of the markets. I call Best Buy almost every day to try and get a forewarning that they're on the way so that I can free up money.
You can get a stand for it, but as I understand it the stand is kind of weird. It looks like an art exhibit stand. If I were you I'd just use the included wall mount and mount it on a wall at no extra charge. It's made for that, and because it's completely flat you'll be able to have it flush against the wall unlike other TVs. It'll look goooood.
Either that or they just replace it with a new model without going through a credit back.
www.rtings.com
