Home Improvement

Borzak

<Bronze Donator>

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,421

You know there's free apps for the phone to get the bevel using a right triangle for free. Doesn't require a math degree lol.

Lacking that a framing square will do it as well.

Now the real question is did you measure from the toe of the step or the nosing line to meet code?

 

Palum

what Suineg set it to

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,422

Borzak_sl said:

You know there's free apps for the phone to get the bevel using a right triangle for free. Doesn't require a math degree lol.

Lacking that a framing square will do it as well.

Now the real question is did you measure from the toe of the step or the nosing line to meet code?

Click to expand...

Fuck code, he's a homeowner YEEEHAWWWWWWW

 

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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,423

Actually i bought a 3 riser stringer from lowes, and traced it until i got to 9.

For the handrails i put the posts up, held up the rail, and traced the angle and took and cut the post.

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,424

Step height is 6.5, treads are 11.25 with ~1.25 overhang.

 

Borzak

<Bronze Donator>

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,425

Just giving you shit. I have no idea what homeowner code is. I do commercial and industrial stairs and handrail by the semi truck load. But a framing square will do 9 on 12 stairs which is the standard without hassle if someone else wants to build them. They also give the cut you need for the top of the handrail post.

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,426

Ibc max riser is 7.75 iirc..don't think it gets much notice in residential or industrial though

 

Borzak

<Bronze Donator>

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• Oct 11, 2015

• #2,427

Picasso_sl said:

Ibc max riser is 7.75 iirc..don't think it gets much notice in residential or industrial though

Click to expand...

I've done some stairs with a 12 on 12 pitch, so 45 degree angle. Hard as hell to talk up those becuase you basically have to step sideways on the tread. Limited use stairs tho.

Be glad you don't have to dick with circular stairs.

 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint

<Medals Crew>

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,428

Just for shits and giggles have a look at some amazing staircases here:

14 Unique and Spectacular Staircases Around the World | Inhabitat - Sustainable Design Innovation, Eco Architecture, Green Building

The third one blows me away. That's amazing!

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,429

Not impressed after some of the staircases I've seen in this thread

 

Borzak

<Bronze Donator>

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,430

Those are pretty impressive. A lot better than the bland and boring shit I do. These were always fun before programs to do them on a computer, with nothing more than pen and paper and a foot and inch adding machine (weighed 30 pounds and looked like an old cash register and had a 100 keys). LOL

Still had it till the guy who serviced them died.

I would like to work on some of the stuff that really has a wow factor to it like those.

These are our circular stairs. Not very exciting.

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,431

Why wouldn't they just do a ladder? You damn sure don't want people climbing that with they hands full

 

Borzak

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,432

You would haver to build a platform landing every 30 feet according to OSHA for a caged ladder. They're not going up there carrying anything. Mostly to read instrumentation and look in sight glasses etc...

That was the first one I googled. Mainly circule stairs are done on large oil storage tanks of say 100' in diameter or so. I assume so they don't have to build an entire structure of platforms every 30' for a landing to change ladders. A smoke stack like the one pictured normally is a ladder thru multiple platforms. It wouldn't meet OSHA standards either (apparently it's in Canada) since it uses flat bar for the stringer instead of a channel. Most stuff you carry is in a backpack which is 1000x easier going up even that stair over a caged ladder.

Never done one but these look like a royal pain in the ass math wise.

I knew a guy who owned a fab shop that had a circular stair in his house. It was pretty impressive. He bought some special stair treads that were cast in Europe loooong ago and the estimator at work stole a bunch when he didn't know what they were for. He got fired and then they audited his stuff to find out he stole a lot of other stuff.

 

Deathwing

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,433

Kedwyn_sl said:

Insurance won't pay unless you can point to sudden damage that allowed the mold to grow. Missing roof shingles from a recent storm as an example. If it's slow process or defect that is maintenance and not covered.

Mold is one of the more expensive and overhyped problems you can have. Find the source of the moisture, eliminate it, kill the mold and keep the moisture away in the future.

Click to expand...

I agree, fixing the source of water would be much more preferable. Unfortunately, that's probably a couple orders of magnitude of cost higher. I know where water is coming in, it's through cinder blocks under my front porch. I have it well contained after it passes through the cinder blocks but I suspect that mold is growing in the hollows of the blocks and that's what is creating the smell. I can't see where else it would be growing. And I can confirm that by "fumigating" that area and the smell comes back quickly. Once that's confirmed, I'll think of something else to do. Maybe fill the cinder blocks with sand, idk.

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,434

What do you have going on outside where you can't shed the water?

 

Deathwing

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,435

The cinder blocks are below grade, that's where extra costs come in. The real fix would involve digging up a lot of earth, putting in some french drains, and replacing the cinder blocks and porch since they're from the 70s and starting to show their age.

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,436

You're right but if you seal the surface and catch it on the surface you could get some mileage.

If you have good access etc renting a mini excavator for a weekend can be done for 500

 

Borzak

<Bronze Donator>

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• Oct 12, 2015

• #2,437

Or some Mexicans for a lot less.

 

Xarpolis

Life's a Dream

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• Oct 14, 2015

• #2,438

Have any of you ever swapped your house heating system out for a propane house furnace? I'm still doing some research onto things I'd like to accomplish with a new house, and so many of the places I've been looking at are either 100% electric or oil and electric. That sucks. I'd like natural gas for the ease of use, but it's going up in price. I think the most cost effective (easy) heating solution out there is propane.... I'm just wondering if any of you have any actual experience with it?

Thanks!

 

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Picasso3

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• Oct 14, 2015

• #2,439

I like Propane ventless logs for heat during power outage . But no way I'd choose propane if i had access to nat gas. I have a hard time believing piped NG will be more than tanked propane

 

Borzak

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• Oct 14, 2015

• #2,440

Is he talking about having the piping run?

I have had both. I liked natural gas because I've been thru multiple hurricanes without loss of natural gas. I went 2 weeks during Andrew and never lost it and 3 weeks without power after Katrina and never lost it.

Propane works but can be a pain having it delivered because everyone waits till it gets cold and then they can't deliver it fast enough.