Ryoz
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Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
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Palum
what Suineg set it to
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So my house has two large wooden beams that run along the ceiling. They're quite pleasing aesthetically and I assume provide support along the long axis of the house for the tall walls in the open area. They are 6x16, maybe 8x20 beams so pretty heavy duty pieces of wood. Anyway, I've noticed that the edges on the wall/roof have all cracked right at the seam. Granted, it was just painted over when I bought it so I'm not exactly surprised to see it expand/contract when it goes from around 40 degrees at low point in the winter to 118+ in the summer, but is it something to worry about? There are no cracks or signs of stress/bowing on the beams themselves, just looks like it is expanding/contracting at a different rate than the walls/ceiling so the paint is cracking the entire length and on the sides where it meets the ceiling or wall.
I thought that drain was the end , the discharge point. If it goes beyond, great, no worries.
Palum, how old is the house? new? Old? cracking probably mean settling, those are definitely load spans, if the house is new, the post supporting said beams- may be inadequate- or the post in the basement is not placed properly, etc. lots of possibilities, it could be just settling, without looking cannot be entirely sure, only way to check is to look. The floor below, measure where the posts are -if you can- and check that the load is being transferred correctly-preferably straight down, if there is no post-or foundation- there check for doubled or tripled joists to transfer the load down correctly into the foundation/ground like it should.
if the house is >15years old, then it is probably settling.
Palum, how old is the house? new? Old? cracking probably mean settling, those are definitely load spans, if the house is new, the post supporting said beams- may be inadequate- or the post in the basement is not placed properly, etc. lots of possibilities, it could be just settling, without looking cannot be entirely sure, only way to check is to look. The floor below, measure where the posts are -if you can- and check that the load is being transferred correctly-preferably straight down, if there is no post-or foundation- there check for doubled or tripled joists to transfer the load down correctly into the foundation/ground like it should.
if the house is >15years old, then it is probably settling.
lurker
Vyemm Raider
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There are several reasons for the junction of walls and ceilings and beams to crack. Since only a cosmetic repair was attempted, that is, the crack was painted over, it's impossible to tell whether this happened a long time ago when the house was built or recently like every year. You might attempt a repair with a flexible caulk and see what happens over time.
Had a 1940s plaster ceiling collapse that was held up by nails in a rental, the only thing that stayed up were the corners. It could have killed someone for sure. I would def put a level on it and make sure it's not sagging, then either have the corners retaped and mudded or caulked.
Dandai
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Has anyone installed vinyl flooring? A contractor came out and quoted $2700 for 250 sq ft (installation and product). There's a local carpet wholesaler selling them at a clearance rate that works out to be $860 shipped. Obviously I'd have to install it, but from the videos I've seen it doesn't look very burdensome to install. Am I missing something? Is it actually a nightmare and they only show the easy jobs?
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or its an, i'm too busy, give a high quote so i don't get the job quote.
as for that style flooring. not that hard just go slow and be sure of your measurements before gluing/adhering it down. dryfitting first and making all trims before gluing works too but it's been about 20 years for me since i did a vinyl floor, but i rolled it out, cut/trimmed so it fit correctly. then did the glue(luckily the room was basically a square, just had to make a pipe hole and trim around the cabinets).
i'll be doing a "deck build" picture timeline over the next week as the deck gets enlarged and redone- most likely going with trex decking, select line-maybe enhance- saddle color(i do have a budget)... not sure what color i am going to do the framing yet.
as for that style flooring. not that hard just go slow and be sure of your measurements before gluing/adhering it down. dryfitting first and making all trims before gluing works too but it's been about 20 years for me since i did a vinyl floor, but i rolled it out, cut/trimmed so it fit correctly. then did the glue(luckily the room was basically a square, just had to make a pipe hole and trim around the cabinets).
i'll be doing a "deck build" picture timeline over the next week as the deck gets enlarged and redone- most likely going with trex decking, select line-maybe enhance- saddle color(i do have a budget)... not sure what color i am going to do the framing yet.
Dandai
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Yeah these are floating planks. In the video it looked pretty straightforward. Most of the effort is concentrated on the first couple rows (making sure they're square and no issues) since the rest will literally snap into place following the precedent of the first rows. I'm feeling pretty confident in my handiness after finishing the retaining wall, so I'll give this a go and take pictures along the way.
Oh hey floating planks. Way easier. I did my bathroom with a "floating" plank style 12" tile 12 years ago, still looks great. After the first row is in and squared correctly, except for cut pieces, rest of the floor(whole planks) goes down in like 10-20 minutes maybe a bit longer if room large.
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I'm assuming the black area to the left the metal pipe is mold.
Not sure if it's still growing, this is the first I noticed it(someone else's post here made me think to check on mold in the attic). That area is right near the bathroom fan. That metal pipe(I'm assuming it is the flue for the old boiler that's no longer around) is obscuring my view of the area, but it looks like the previous owners(or even builders?!?!) thought it was ok to vent the bathroom fan into the attic.
There doesn't look to be much damage if at all. So I'm hoping spraying it some anti mold will be good enough. However, is installing a proper fan vent something that is DIY friendly?
Not sure if it's still growing, this is the first I noticed it(someone else's post here made me think to check on mold in the attic). That area is right near the bathroom fan. That metal pipe(I'm assuming it is the flue for the old boiler that's no longer around) is obscuring my view of the area, but it looks like the previous owners(or even builders?!?!) thought it was ok to vent the bathroom fan into the attic.
There doesn't look to be much damage if at all. So I'm hoping spraying it some anti mold will be good enough. However, is installing a proper fan vent something that is DIY friendly?
If it comes down to putting an extra hole in your roof I would not do it if you're not seeing issues. However if that 12 inch boiler flue is truly out of commission and goes through the roof with a mushroom cap I'd drill a hole in the side of it and either use a starter collar or just feed it in deep and duct tape.
That's a big ass flue. May be concentric double wall or something... be sure to verify it's not in use or weird.
That's a big ass flue. May be concentric double wall or something... be sure to verify it's not in use or weird.
Big Phoenix
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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Vinen
God is dead
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How do you monitor your daily power utilization? Kinda want to get a device for that.
Read your meter in the morning and in the evening, then subtract the number in the morning from the number in the evening