Home Improvement

Can anyone tell me what the wood design on these cabinets are? My custom cabinet builder says he can not match them and I am looking for someone who does so I can have a couple of doors rebuilt. They are red oak wood, I think.

At wholesale it goes for $0.36 per pound depending on where you are and I assume plain A36. You're basically paying the labor for someone to cut it and ring it up and nothing for the actual plate, which is why we never deal with walk in/retail customers.

Kinner said:

Can anyone tell me what the wood design on these cabinets are? My custom cabinet builder says he can not match them and I am looking for someone who does so I can have a couple of doors rebuilt. They are red oak wood, I think.

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Is it an actual wood smith cabinet shop? because they should be able to replicate it fairly close where only you would know - the double bevel inlay is $$ - most "custom" cabinet shops etc. really mean "custom designed (layout) and size (of boxes) - the designs (frames etc.) are not really... custom - if they don't have what you need from a supplier they are not going to make it. My dad did cabinets and custom framing fairly intensely as a hobby many years back - but now mostly does wood turning (pens, bowls etc.) as its less intense and he is getting older.

Look for a wood workers guild (club) and ask them for a few pieces - it wont be cheap but, you'll have better luck at someone being willing to reproduce those than wondering around to every cabinet store looking for something close to that.

And...are those two different designs? or is the distressed look just confuxing my vision lol

Thanks for the reply!

This is the place: http://chandlercabinets.net/ .

I asked my buddy and his dad can make them exactly like they are. He is a custom home builder with some mad skills and hand makes cabinets as well for his homes. I just have to get him the measurements ASAP as he is going out for 8 weeks because he is having surgery on his hand.

They are the same design, we are doing a bunch of remodeling on the house and they have glazed the upper cabinets, just waiting on the flooring and granite to be installed to do the lower ones, not your vision!

Ahh the glaze/lacquer is filling in the first bead, I didn't notice it on the lower cab- if your refinishing the upper to look like the lower- its funny because people pay big bucks to have that distressed look - and also people pay big bucks to have their distressed stuff refinished.

I was talking to my dad about cab/counter tops etc. and really in reality trends be damned, it's "what you like" that matters.

Because of "reasons" my kitchen cabs and light honey oak with buterblock counter tops - when we installed them this was a huge NO-NO! as the wood and colors blended, one or the other should have been white or something - but now the trend is "blending" colors of the cab/countertop together - so I am kind of in style now

Hahaha. Ya we are refinishing the lower to match the upper, we are paying the big bucks for that distressed look. We had red oak cabinets to begin with.
As far as the trends go, ya we are doing it to the way we like, screw everyone else. We picked out the granite we like, look we want, and made sure it was functional for all the cooking we(I) do. I hate the new trend of the big island in the middle of the room, it annoys me for some reason.

In the middle of having a bathroom remodeled...that probably hadn't been since the 70s (lime green tile in the shower, etc)

I should have just sold the house and moved. Mold issues, electrical issues, endless fun.

I'm currently sitting with my kid in the family room in the basement because the electrician has already left for the day(is supposedly done) but come to find out my living room and dining room have no power. Called him up and he'll be back "first thing tomorrow". Lovely.

Erronius said:

Too bad I live in KC, or I'd be able to help you out!

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lol

Apparently, our AC was wired directly into our 100 amp circuit breaker box, it wasn't on a circuit breaker at all. Remodeler took one look at that and decided he wasn't touching our electrical until that was fixed, said our breaker box was hot as hell.

We really need to upgrade to 200 amp service at some point, we're basically stretching the limit of what 100amp can probably handle, but I'm putting t hat off for now until after the remodel. Quick fix today was just re-wiring the AC and shuffling some wires around on the circuit breakers to make room for everything (some things were double-up, with too much on 1 breaker, besides the AC being totally FUBAR)

Fun times.

Joeboo said:

In the middle of having a bathroom remodeled...that probably hadn't been since the 70s (lime green tile in the shower, etc)

I should have just sold the house and moved. Mold issues, electrical issues, endless fun.

I'm currently sitting with my kid in the family room in the basement because the electrician has already left for the day(is supposedly done) but come to find out my living room and dining room have no power. Called him up and he'll be back "first thing tomorrow". Lovely.

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I have pics, I may post once complete but here is the narrative.

Walk by master walk in closet I just redid fully custom (like me + table saw + wood = tada) *sniff sniff* "Wife, does something smell... musty?"

Back corner is moist - inspect and take out corner rail post / shoe rack and shelving stand (grrr!) all sorts of wet - lift up carpet and pad - wood kickboard starting to rot/mold. The master bath is on the other side of the wall to the corner and the other side is the outside / block wall of the house.

I know where the pipes are, there was some drywall damage I didn't want to repair when I redid the closet (where old brace was, just patched and pained) so I rip open a hole to look at the shower pipes - no hiss, no moisture, I see no water on the bottom...

Rip open more of the wall down to the floor to fully inspect the copper coming out of the slab, wet- but not reproducible with shower on, also no pooling or more water build up after running...*with no one in the shower*

She showers normally no water, I shower - BOOM - comes out from the base corner of the adjoining wall.

We remember we had some loose little tile on the floor I patched - I pop it off and look, crack in the shower slab.

"Seal" the loose tile grout and any other small cracks I can see with normal waterproof sealer - leak still exists but MUCH slower = confirming our predictions of source of issue

Research "proper" way of installing shower currently... generally agreed to lay the shower foundation / install a prefab slope thing and drain - then use PVC shower pan liner over that and up on side some - then tile and grout + sealer on top of that.

Tear off shower floor tile expose huge crack, clean it out from decay/mold as best possible- start removing 1 tile up / side slope tiles - and discover the far end of the shower has bad mold and lots of tile just falls off above the tile I wanted to remove - its all backed with "water resistant" drywall. Call pops up "Aint this suppose to be cement board?" - "They didn't have that in the 70's" - the rot was fairly bad....

... took down the entire shower walls to studs, installed new cement board - patched the crack and installed the PVC liner... hurting like a mofo doing the teardown and build up in a 24hour span...

so now we got to shop for tiles and I have to do detail work (mostly for my perfectionist) of sealing the edges and top of the liner with waterproof silicone / microban stuff. Then time to do the tile work and seal it... then test again for leeks.

THEN rebuild the darn closet!! >_<

Yep, that was the issue in this shower/tub combo, tile from the 70s. No cement board or really any waterproofing of any kind under the tile. Add to that the fact that there is a window in the shower(WTF 1970s?) that has been leaking for years, and the entire large side shower wall is full of mold. All the insulation had to go, but luckily the studs weren't rotted(just surface mold) and the exterior wall boards weren't rotted either(just surface mold again). All insulation had to be replaced, and while it was out 2 seperate applications of bleach spray were applied over 3 days and the mold all seems to be gone.