Had epoxy in prior house. Kept it clean enough where reapplying the polyurethane topcoat was enough every 5 years. I just like being able to spray out the garage and it is clean with no oil etc.
Home Improvement
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Had epoxy in prior house. Kept it clean enough where reapplying the polyurethane topcoat was enough every 5 years. I just like being able to spray out the garage and it is clean with no oil etc.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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You are better off buying a paint store epoxy that they produce, it wont be much more expensive but is much higher quality.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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yeah, it's currently painted and that's chipping - so I have to scrape it all...and remove everything lol - so it's not going to happen anytime soon.
I don't care about speckles - that's just what I see at the ol depot. There is a dynex? Place up the street and a Sherman Williams so I can always go there.
I don't care about speckles - that's just what I see at the ol depot. There is a dynex? Place up the street and a Sherman Williams so I can always go there.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Vinen
God is dead
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Yeah. Garage Door is still out on order since it had to be custom sized. Should be here in 2 weeks.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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roof looks nice, was the previous one as high? looks like the roof is almost the same height as that condo wall barrier.
Vinen
God is dead
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Next project is to really tack on my lawn. like i've said before, some dead spots i'm dealing w/ the plugger, what i really found out the problem is the lawn sprinklers are just too outdated, it's about 25+ years old, the system is fine the heads are just weak. So doing research seems the new hotness is to get rotary sprinkler heads. the two most brought up are the hunter mp and rain bird rvan.
I just installed 4, 360 hunter mps they cover ALOT better, and they are more wind resistant than the sprays (it was windy today). I have the rain bird rvans coming in later and i'll see how those stack up.
I just installed 4, 360 hunter mps they cover ALOT better, and they are more wind resistant than the sprays (it was windy today). I have the rain bird rvans coming in later and i'll see how those stack up.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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So i bought this easy sprinkler removal unfortunately my sprinklers are old and thin bodied, so far i cut my grass at the highest setting and all my 55 sprinklers are below grade.
With the new hunter mp rotators, and the 2in travel height to spray it actually sprays up and out, to create an arc, so i can get by with that.
The main issue i had was with capping my sprinklers, since these new heads actually cover more area, i need less sprinklers, and in order to cap it, i have to dig it out.
Or, i can just glue seal the nozzels w/ waterproof glue, gonna go and buy some loctite to try that out now. this way the sprinkler heads will pop up, but no water will fire, i think this could work.
last issue i have is that it looks really cool, this unfortunately attracts the neighborhood kids and they just have fun, it's not really an issue since i only run my sprinklers at 5am (they said it's best to water in the morning before it can dry out in the sun and after never water at night so no funky fungus builds up)
With the new hunter mp rotators, and the 2in travel height to spray it actually sprays up and out, to create an arc, so i can get by with that.
The main issue i had was with capping my sprinklers, since these new heads actually cover more area, i need less sprinklers, and in order to cap it, i have to dig it out.
Or, i can just glue seal the nozzels w/ waterproof glue, gonna go and buy some loctite to try that out now. this way the sprinkler heads will pop up, but no water will fire, i think this could work.
last issue i have is that it looks really cool, this unfortunately attracts the neighborhood kids and they just have fun, it's not really an issue since i only run my sprinklers at 5am (they said it's best to water in the morning before it can dry out in the sun and after never water at night so no funky fungus builds up)
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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If it's hot (it's approaching 100 degrees here in NC), watering for 5-20 minutes (depending on output) in the middle of the day can help prevent the grass from stressing out. You're not looking to water it deep, just enough to get water on the blades and let evaporation cool them off. It's one of the best ways I know to keep cool season lawns green throughout the summer. Just make sure the grass blades are dry before it gets dark or you'll get disease and fungus.
Some additional unsolicited advice:
- Have you measured output of your new sprinkler heads?
- Tall fescue needs 1.5" of water per week to thrive and avoid going dormant in the summer (rain counts so don't water more than you have to!)
- 0.75" twice per week is optimal.
- Mowing taller is always better. I mow at 4" (as tell as my lawn mower deck will let me go). The shade from the canopy of the grass helps to prevent evaporation and keep the soil moist longer.
- That being said, I don't mow in the summer unless there's rain in the forecast. Mowing stresses it out and I'd rather have a shaggy looking lawn than a brown lawn.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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I'm already pushing cutting the grass every 10ish days, my block cul de sac have nice groomed lawns, so i can't be slacking. I say my block cuz the next streets over, seems to have lazy ppl lol, bushy and floppy weedy grass.If it's hot (it's approaching 100 degrees here in NC), watering for 5-20 minutes (depending on output) in the middle of the day can help prevent the grass from stressing out. You're not looking to water it deep, just enough to get water on the blades and let evaporation cool them off. It's one of the best ways I know to keep cool season lawns green throughout the summer. Just make sure the grass blades are dry before it gets dark or you'll get disease and fungus.
Some additional unsolicited advice:
Cheers
- Have you measured output of your new sprinkler heads?
- Tall fescue needs 1.5" of water per week to thrive and avoid going dormant in the summer (rain counts so don't water more than you have to!)
- 0.75" twice per week is optimal.
- Mowing taller is always better. I mow at 4" (as tell as my lawn mower deck will let me go). The shade from the canopy of the grass helps to prevent evaporation and keep the soil moist longer.
- That being said, I don't mow in the summer unless there's rain in the forecast. Mowing stresses it out and I'd rather have a shaggy looking lawn than a brown lawn.
no, i haven't measured the water output yet, i want to get all my zones at matching percipitation first.
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a c i d.f l y
ಠ_ಠ
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a c i d.f l y
ಠ_ಠ
- 20,062
- 99,466
If it's hot (it's approaching 100 degrees here in NC), watering for 5-20 minutes (depending on output) in the middle of the day can help prevent the grass from stressing out. You're not looking to water it deep, just enough to get water on the blades and let evaporation cool them off. It's one of the best ways I know to keep cool season lawns green throughout the summer. Just make sure the grass blades are dry before it gets dark or you'll get disease and fungus.
Some additional unsolicited advice:
Cheers
- Have you measured output of your new sprinkler heads?
- Tall fescue needs 1.5" of water per week to thrive and avoid going dormant in the summer (rain counts so don't water more than you have to!)
- 0.75" twice per week is optimal.
- Mowing taller is always better. I mow at 4" (as tell as my lawn mower deck will let me go). The shade from the canopy of the grass helps to prevent evaporation and keep the soil moist longer.
- That being said, I don't mow in the summer unless there's rain in the forecast. Mowing stresses it out and I'd rather have a shaggy looking lawn than a brown lawn.
Also depends on your type of grass. Kentucky blue does well letting it grow higher, but St Augustine does better kept short. Seed vs runner. Seed can always patch spots, while any dead spots on st augustine is a bitch to get to fill in without actually buying patches of sod.
I've lived in my place for about 4 years and I'm still working to repair the damage left to the yard by the previous tenants without actually buying all new sod. I've managed to rid it mostly of weeds, save for a few spots of crabgrass that love to grow in the dead spots. I also have mowers, so they're constantly depositing shit from other yards, but still a much better, cheaper and easier solution than doing it myself. Nature really fucks me up, was out for 2 weeks for a sinus infection the last time I mowed the lawn myself. Honestly wouldn't mind doing it myself, but I have a pretty big fuckin yard, and allergies suck my dick with heavy teeth. I still fertilize and treat for bugs, and have a weed extractor I use regularly.
Dandai
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Haven't installed any, but I've repaired and cleaned plenty. I hate working over my head and/or on a ladder. That project would be a strong candidate for outsourcing, for me.
Dandai
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Pre-emergent in Feb (since you mentioned St. Augustine I assume you live in a warmer climate) and then again in May will keep your crab grass from coming up in dead spots. If you get a plugger like what Lanx linked earlier in the thread you should be able to transplant some of your own St. Aug and have modest success.