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Dandai

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i also got some plywood i'll cut so that i can stand on something flat, instead of standing on the (trushes? is that what the ceiling studs are called?) after doing the pot lights and wiring up the rooms, tired of kneeling 16in apart.
If you're planning on keeping the plywood there and not moving it much, that's one thing, but if you're using this as a temp solution, get a 2x8 or 2x10 and cut it into two or three 30-36" long pieces. It'll be lighter and much easier to move than plywood.
 

Lanx

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If you're planning on keeping the plywood there and not moving it much, that's one thing, but if you're using this as a temp solution, get a 2x8 or 2x10 and cut it into two or three 30-36" long pieces. It'll be lighter and much easier to move than plywood.
oh yea the plywood is just gonna be so i can have a flat surface to work on, i think i'll on my belly, especially at the edge where the roof makes that slope, whatever it's called?
 

Vinen

God is dead
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Walls are down. Just waiting for inspector to come by to confirm what has to be brought up to code.

Interesting things we found of note
1.) Gas line for Gas Lights into Bedrooms
2.) Deactivated Knob and Tube (Needs to be removed for code reasons. Just dead wires not hooked up to anything right now)
3.) Note the counterweight for the windows. Windows will be replaced as soon as the order comes in hopefully this week.

20190104_151820.jpg20190104_152054.jpg
 
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iannis

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Eaves are where the roof overhangs I think. I've always just called called the bits of the roof beam, joist, and roof though.
 

GuardianX

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All this insulation talk has me debating something that I've been wondering for a while now.

I have blown in attic insulation on the Drywall ceiling back, it's pretty old and I've been debating hitting up some place like habitat for humanity and snatching up something like R-13 (maybe something better) at the cheap and replacing the blown in with pink-panther crap. The depth of the blown in is nothing too deep maybe like 6-8 inches (whatever is typical height for a 1970's home) of loose blown in (did some work up there and it was sitting there like down stacked on itself).
 

Dandai

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All this insulation talk has me debating something that I've been wondering for a while now.

I have blown in attic insulation on the Drywall ceiling back, it's pretty old and I've been debating hitting up some place like habitat for humanity and snatching up something like R-13 (maybe something better) at the cheap and replacing the blown in with pink-panther crap. The depth of the blown in is nothing too deep maybe like 6-8 inches (whatever is typical height for a 1970's home) of loose blown in (did some work up there and it was sitting there like down stacked on itself).
What are your goals for replacing the insulation? More temperature barrier between attic and living space?
 

GuardianX

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What are your goals for replacing the insulation? More temperature barrier between attic and living space?

It feels like the blown in doesn't really stop much in the way of air-flow so I feel like if I adhere some pink panther crap alongside doing some touchup with foam or sealant I might be able to slow heat (heating in winter and cooling in summer) transfer a bit better than I am right now.
 

Lanx

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Didn't get to insulating the attic, wifi thermos came in, so i decided to tackle that, went to the junction box and turned off ac/furnce, the sump pump was right above it so i decided, lemme do a wellness check on it.

it fucking collapsed, the pipe was disconnected at the base, after dragging it out both hose clamps rusted out and broke off, i can't really complain, this is the original sump pump as far as i know, so 20 years in the water. went to pick up new rings, guess they don't got rust free, just stainless, saw i don't have a checkvalve and it was 1 1/2, guess i needed 1 1/4, installed the sump pump back like regular. saw a minor leak from the pipe out to wall, since i had it already, used the spray foam, etc.

then i did the wifi thermos, now just gotta wait on garage wifi and echos
 

Lanx

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It feels like the blown in doesn't really stop much in the way of air-flow so I feel like if I adhere some pink panther crap alongside doing some touchup with foam or sealant I might be able to slow heat (heating in winter and cooling in summer) transfer a bit better than I am right now.
since i had the numbers, blown in cellulose is 3.8 r-value per inch, so you got like r22 to r30 (lets be safe and just say r22), so look at what the batts would offer you.
DOE-INSULATION-MAP.jpg


For reference i'm in kansas zone 4 and i have 12-15inches of blown insulation for r45
 
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Lanx

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oh if anyone has any advice to reuse great stuff. So far i've stuck a bbq skewer in the bottle and capped it, and the plastic straws i clean with a tub of acetone. but i'll be using the caulk more since i have a nice gun.
 

Dandai

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It feels like the blown in doesn't really stop much in the way of air-flow so I feel like if I adhere some pink panther crap alongside doing some touchup with foam or sealant I might be able to slow heat (heating in winter and cooling in summer) transfer a bit better than I am right now.
Insulating and air sealing aren’t mutually exclusive, but it seems like your insulation is fine so what you really want is sealing foam. I’m not sure if there’s a good way to pressurize your house to make air movement super obvious, but basically any penetration between the ceiling and the attic is going to leak air. Spray foam is extremely flammable so read the directions before spraying around light fixtures and never ever near open flame (pilot lights, for example). The nice thing is you can get cans of sealing foam at your local Lowe’s/HD for a few bucks per can. You want to use it all in one sitting though as the foam cures in the straw and is only good for one-time use.
 
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GuardianX

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since i had the numbers, blown in cellulose is 3.8 r-value per inch, so you got like r22 to r30 (lets be safe and just say r22), so look at what the batts would offer you.
DOE-INSULATION-MAP.jpg


For reference i'm in kansas zone 4 and i have 12-15inches of blown insulation for r45

I'm in zone 3 I think (Dallas area) but I wanted to insulate like I'm zone 4, unless advised otherwise.

Currently if I math out the best possible depth of 8 inches at r-3.8 I'm running a R-30ish attic.

I can almost certainly state that I'm NOT at a 8 inch depth average. I would likely guess I'm at a 6 inch depth average. which puts me at around r-22 for my attic.
 

Dandai

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oh if anyone has any advice to reuse great stuff. So far i've stuck a bbq skewer in the bottle and capped it, and the plastic straws i clean with a tub of acetone. but i'll be using the caulk more since i have a nice gun.
If you really want to use the can more than once/across multiple sittings, the spray gun (~$45) with petroleum jelly and the gun cleaner/acetone might work, but no promises that the nozzle on the can itself won’t permanently seal shut. I’d never advise poking and prodding a pressurized vessel...
 

Dandai

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It feels like the blown in doesn't really stop much in the way of air-flow so I feel like if I adhere some pink panther crap alongside doing some touchup with foam or sealant I might be able to slow heat (heating in winter and cooling in summer) transfer a bit better than I am right now.
Also, you can technically use foil backed HVAC tape (for the love of god, not duct tape) to air seal, but a can of spray foam with a straw is much MUCH easier to use, especially since you’re gonna be working around blown in insulation.
 
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Lanx

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I'm in zone 3 I think (Dallas area) but I wanted to insulate like I'm zone 4, unless advised otherwise.

Currently if I math out the best possible depth of 8 inches at r-3.8 I'm running a R-30ish attic.

I can almost certainly state that I'm NOT at a 8 inch depth average. I would likely guess I'm at a 6 inch depth average. which puts me at around r-22 for my attic.
imo, figure out how much sq/ft you need, if you don't know the sqft of your attic use this tool and plug in your address
Google Maps Area Calculator Tool
and make a perimeter of your roof

if you want to just get the r13 batts and lay em on top of your current insulation, remember to get the unfaced no vapor barrier, or you'll create moisture. Also if you buy from home depot, of 15 or more, you get volume pricing and it's usually 20% off. (i did all this talking to menards, and i checked that home depot has the same volume pricing)

well thats all i can offer, i'll tell you how it goes crawling on my belly, caulking each crack and foaming around the pipes and holes.
 
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GuardianX

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I'll google this later but ask here as well. Why is it blown in is such a high R value compared to sheet rolls?

You would think that sheet rolls would be a MUCH tighter bundle versus something blown into an area sitting loose not even being compressed by paper backing.
 

Dandai

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I'll google this later but ask here as well. Why is it blown in is such a high R value compared to sheet rolls?

You would think that sheet rolls would be a MUCH tighter bundle versus something blown into an area sitting loose not even being compressed by paper backing.
Because air is what insulates and blown in has way more air within it than tightly packed/compressed rolls. Insulation that’s being compacted loses most of its insulating value.
 
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iannis

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Insulating and air sealing aren’t mutually exclusive, but it seems like your insulation is fine so what you really want is sealing foam. I’m not sure if there’s a good way to pressurize your house to make air movement super obvious, but basically any penetration between the ceiling and the attic is going to leak air. Spray foam is extremely flammable so read the directions before spraying around light fixtures and never ever near open flame (pilot lights, for example). The nice thing is you can get cans of sealing foam at your local Lowe’s/HD for a few bucks per can. You want to use it all in one sitting though as the foam cures in the straw and is only good for one-time use.

That spray in the can is neat, too. It's like your own little slice of GWAR.