Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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yea my inspector was like A+ and taught me he does more work in those 4hours than a shitty realtor would ever do
that flat roof part has no steep or grade at all?
Home Improvement
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Someone did a diy on the flat. I'd have it redone with white rubber, flashing etc. They can replace all the pipe boots on the shingle area while they're at it, not a big deal. Since you have Mexicans it may be surprisingly cheap.
Vinen
God is dead
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I'm not talking the shitty inspector you hire for closing. I'm talking the town inspector who exists to have a 2 foot stick jammed up their ass.
Big Phoenix
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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Got some cement sealant and sealed up the seams that where likely the entrance. Also resealed 3 exhausts vents, 1 on the side of the garage which I think was the source of a leak in the garage.
There is a slight grade and two down spouts for water to exit, one at each end.
Well see, but dont want cheap if it just results in more pain down the road like now. When I bought the house the inspector said that the roof only had a few years left on it.
Borzak
Bronze Baron of the Realm
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Only a local inspection if they pull a permit. From the looks of it it was "fixed" by the home owner, or a contractor that didn't pull a permit.
Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Can't be 100% sure from the close up picture but that lower section definitely looks like it has a shallow enough grade to need rubber whenever you get around to having the roof redone.
iannis
Musty Nester
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That roof has been patched and repatched.
Shingling isn't hard, it's just boring as shit. And hot if you do it in the summer.
That doesn't look to me like it will be that terrible of a fix. You do need flashing though. That cement won't last very long. The vents are fiddly and you'll wind up reshingling a lot.
You figure it was probably done right before they put the house on the market. So how ever long you've had the house +3 months, that's how long you should expect it to last. The problem with it isn't the leak as much as the water that gets in before it starts leaking a lot. Ruin your rafters. And that's a much bigger fix.
Shingling isn't hard, it's just boring as shit. And hot if you do it in the summer.
That doesn't look to me like it will be that terrible of a fix. You do need flashing though. That cement won't last very long. The vents are fiddly and you'll wind up reshingling a lot.
You figure it was probably done right before they put the house on the market. So how ever long you've had the house +3 months, that's how long you should expect it to last. The problem with it isn't the leak as much as the water that gets in before it starts leaking a lot. Ruin your rafters. And that's a much bigger fix.
Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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Easiest way to scrape it is put down plastic everywhere, buy a hudson sprayer, mist a 4x8 area lets it soak in a couple times and then scrape it with a 14-16in drywall knife. rinse repeat. Worse part is you as an amateur will likely gouge the face paper of the board and every nick needs to get taped. If I were you I would scrape it and ask a pro to come and egg shell skim the whole lid. A pro can do it in a day. Ceilings dont have to be mudded perfect, you cant get the LOS angle to see any whoopty-doos.
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Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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taping isnt that hard, biggest mistakes amateurs make are puttin on too much and using the mud right out of the box / bucket. Pros add water to the mud to dial it in for what they are doing, the looser it is the thinner and more accurately you can pull it with less effort, too loose it falls of the knife.. IF you are really gonna DIY - 1st buy a real stainless steel pan and get a wide one 14 or 16 in. they arent expensive $20-25. And if you are going to skim use wide knives, 14-16 in. they are usually a dollar in inch. always carry a 4 or a 5" in your back pocket as a utility / tight spaces knife. When you buy them check the blades are straight and dont have nicks, 1 in 3 knives in a hardware store are warped from the stamping. Both the pan and the knives have shit edges from the factory, I always dress they both with a block and some 220 -320 sand paper before they touch a board or they can make scratches. After that its all about learning to load your knife evenly when pulling from the pan before you drag. pros pull up the side of the pan so it is even across the blade and then 'kill' the two ends but scraping of a little from both tips because the mud will spread as you pull and launch all over the floor. Then you do a 'loading' pass with very little / even pressure to make sure the mud is applied evenly over the area you are working, than come back with a 'take off' pass with more pressure. pulling off the excess material, keeping trash and dried mud out of you pan will keep you from making 'streaks' in the mud. that finish pull should be like a plane to doing touch and goes on a runway. move into the board, apply pressure, drag, and than slowly let away while you are still moving. Mud you pull off goes back in the pan, it will slowly dry out from off and on, give it a little squirt with a sponge if it is getting stiff on you and mix it with you 4-5 in knife.
You are always better off having to do multiple thins coats over a few days than piling in on and having to sand the shit out of it. You will get 'tails' on the edges of your pulls, totally normal, leave em, when they are dry scrape them with a knife and you dont have to sand them. Pros sand almost nothing.
Keep your pan clean, dont let mud dry out in it and never put used mud back in your bucket, it will get hard trash specks and fuck up your drags. If you have to take a break, put a layer of water on top of the mud in the pan, pour it off and mix the mud in the pan with you 4-5 in knife and go again.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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my wife saw a stupid reddit video where the guy was sanding off the ceiling of popcorn and shes like wow, thats looks nice. i'm like why? she's like i hate this popcorn ceiling, i said i thought you were ok with it? shes like but it looks so easy tho.
nope, i saw a lot of youtube videos, so like you i decided to test out a small section, i settled on my laundry closet (my closet has smally sq ft, but so much clothes to remove vs just removing w&d)
so i had a pump sprayer (the 2gallon kind for weed) and drenched it with krud kuter (i saw some youtube, some old guy says this is the best mix), it took 2 applications and it was ready to come off, so i tarped up all the sides and attached a drywall knife to the end of my vac (another youtube video) and scrapped. that didn't work out too well, it didn't suck up anything and just fell to the plastic, it did scrape off well, so i just used the knife and put a mudwall pan underneath, that worked well.
i scraped off a washer sized area and waited, i thought i could just use a regular sander. nope, not only did i get tired, but my sandpaper was clogging up so fast. (cuz it's also a small area detail sander)
so i guess i really have to get those pole sanders they showed on the youtube videos, home depot wants 53$ a day,
i'm wondering if these amazon ones WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose are worth it, thats where i'm stuck
Decent is no problem with a couple coats of flat paint on a poorly lit ceiling. If you want to get it like a professional would, prepare yourself for frustration/disappointment.
Vinen
God is dead
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Or a roofer who hired their daily workers from the Home Depot curve.
Walls FINALLY FUCKING GOING UP in my Kitchen today. This is related to the above as getting town inspectors over has been complete hell. So much construction in my town and they are understaffed. The only way to get an inspector to showup on time is to be a contractor who has a buddy buddy relationship with the inspection department. Jand ust need to get the screw inspection done after that and the kitchen will come together.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Due to water damage from my leaking / flooded dishwasher, I’m looking at replacing about 1,000 sqft of hardwood + tile. Thinking about just doing one solid surface instead this time. Also completely redoing the kitchen and just laying out of pocket over the $16k or so I’m getting from insurance. But have no idea on the floor stuff.
Going to check and see what the possibilities of sanding and feathering in boards and matching to the existing, but it doesn’t look likely based on a few people looking. Outside of that I’m looking at wood look ceramic tile or LVT since it’ll be living room area and kitchen, so for moisture, durability, cleaning, etc. But I have no experience living with either or what the market perceptions are of each (or alternatives I may be overlooking).
What floors do people like or installed recently? I’m not looking for anything specialized design or pattern wise. It’ll be traditional and straightforward.
Going to check and see what the possibilities of sanding and feathering in boards and matching to the existing, but it doesn’t look likely based on a few people looking. Outside of that I’m looking at wood look ceramic tile or LVT since it’ll be living room area and kitchen, so for moisture, durability, cleaning, etc. But I have no experience living with either or what the market perceptions are of each (or alternatives I may be overlooking).
What floors do people like or installed recently? I’m not looking for anything specialized design or pattern wise. It’ll be traditional and straightforward.
Vinen
God is dead
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I think the answer really depends on the part of the country you are in. I prefer hardwood floors throughout the house (including kitchen).
You just need to be careful with situations like what happend at your house. We will have water detectors placed to alert us (Kitchen is currently gutted... well walls went up yesteerday)
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Some of the high-end textured composites feel very much like hardwood and are more resistant to damage. Friend has it in his house, including kitchen, and it's quite nice. If tile is more your thing my dad put in printed porcelain tile, which is also pleasant and nearly indestructible unless you drop dumbbells on it.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Thanks for the feedback. I’m down in Arkansas so we get a fair bit of weather, and my house is elevated on a cliff face so exposed and looking over the tree line. I want something to keep with the aesthetic and character of the place. Going too fancy will just be out of place. Have a designer coming next week to put something together. No way could I reliably put together a design with new floors, cabinets, countertops, splash, etc without it looking like a clown car. One of my good friends does tile work in multi multi million dollar homes so also leaning on him and will use him for some of the work