if you also notice you have "patches" of grass that isn't growing, not thick, (and youre sure it's not disease or dog pee) it's probably thatch that has accumulated, if it hasn't broken down then it's just preventing stuff from getting in there.
Ideally you want to take care of it before it gets to the point of mold/rot, but to your point, once a year is probably too frequent to be optimal. I’m not very familiar with dense thatch producing turf grasses. My lawn (such as it is) is mostly centipede with some invading common Bermuda. Neither produce enough thatch for me to consider dethatching. I’ve heard Zoysia and KBG can produce a ton of thatch if you hammer them with nitrogen and really push growth.
I know im late to this party. Get Kevlar pants/chaps if you're doing a lot of sawing. Also a metal screen or polycarbonate face shield. Stihl non professional saws come with low kickback chains, but it's no joke. Even with a chain brake.This is what I did. I had two stihl saws that are 20 years old and got tired of the starting issues. This ms250 is brand new never used. Bought it a month ago and just now getting around to using it.
Random question @lurkingdirk andDandai what safety gear do you wear when using a chainsaw? Apron? Helmet? Steel toe boots? Etc
Holy fuck yes this is exactly what I need. Thinking of doing the fs 460 since it’s 5 lbs lighter than 560
Foler
the MS250 should run a 20" bar, maybe a 24. The manual has a compatibility chart. You can fell/buck a pretty big tree with that. If you're looking to fell 4-6 ft diameter hardwoods like white oak you'll need a 36-42" + bar and a much bigger/heavier saw. Stihl 88x series are nice, but monstrously heavy. Not something you'll use alot unless you're clearing a forest.
I’ve resigned myself to not doing the ridiculously huge trees that are down. I mean I’d need a bobcat just to move the shit after cutting it - I’ll leave it to the pros.
The bar length isn’t as much of a safety consideration as how aggressive the chain is and how powerful the saw is. Ironically, a longer bar is less dangerous because you have more time to engage the brake before it gets to your body in the event of a kickback. Understanding what causes kickback and how to position your body to have maximum control will be your best safety precaution.
Gonna grab a ms261cm with 20” bar and call it a day for now. You’re right, best hire pros for bigger stuff
Something to consider with current lumber prices (though they are dropping rapidly) is you may be able to get paid to have trees cut down. This is dependent on location of the trees (do they need a crane and how accessible is it to heavy machinery), volume (number of trees), and potential quality of the lumber. They’re only gonna care about the trunk and slabs/lumber they mill, so you would still need to burn or hire someone to remove the limbs/waste debris. But those details could probably be negotiated.
Borzak
(I think?)would know way more about this than I do, but may not be familiar with Florida operations.
i was watching about bbq and 1 guy will come out to take your tree down for the wood, i think it was for hickory treesSomething to consider with current lumber prices (though they are dropping rapidly) is you may be able to get paid to have trees cut down. This is dependent on location of the trees (do they need a crane and how accessible is it to heavy machinery), volume (number of trees), and potential quality of the lumber. They’re only gonna care about the trunk and slabs/lumber they mill, so you would still need to burn or hire someone to remove the limbs/waste debris. But those details could probably be negotiated.
I don't understand what a cavernous vagina has to do with chainsaws.
Fs 560 for brush cutting dawg. I got a shit ton of brush to cut and my fs 80 ain’t gonna do it
