I would agree but if that was in the budget I think the problem would have been solved.Buy a new door.
It's not a sturdy door. It's one of those cheap ones that auto-retract. The soft part IS near the window. Plastic on the outside, rotted wood(that I can see) on the inside.Confused by the door part. Nearly all wood doors that would rot have no plastic, unless around a window casement. All metals doors have plastic around the same casement but usually lack much wood to rot except at the sides for support/stability. Most used to use a cardboard corrugated core , now many use foam. Either way you can fill in that void some is you can access the inside of the door through a hole or whatever and use a NON EXPANDING foam. Do not use expanding foam. Use the kind meant specifically to fill voids without expansion pressure or you will buckle the door. Then seal up.
On a properly built house you will have at the sill plate( wood secured to foundation for framing of the house these layers. Studs/Sheeting which is ply, brick board or foam board, house wrap, additional insulation if siding ( much thinner than the first ) then finish cover which is board, siding,brick, rock.
The reason it is loose is all siding is nailed at the top. There SHOULD be a nailing strip the bottom of that panel snaps into it. Either they skimped on it, or it has fallen off or simply come undone. It will basically look like a 2-3 inch piece of metal at the same level as the bottom of the siding nailed into studs. The siding snaps onto it preventing it from being loose.
Now if it is just flashing and was never there, then that was some piss poor work done by the siding guys, but not all that uncommon, these days I've seen it all.
Vines and plants grow up underneath stuff like that all the time, simply cut and pull out what you can, what remains will eventually rot away if the growth is thick ( >1/4 inch thick ) you will want to remove it simply from crimping/damaging the siding. It is meant to be flat to the wall.
As far as securing it without a nailing strip, exterior adhesive may be your best bet, like liquid nail or along those lines and keep plant growth from reaching it again.
Mko, it is hard work. I find a 2 or 3 lb sledge works best( the short smaller version of the murder weapon ) unless you do like I did last week and miss the chisel and hit your hand, in which case I suggest explosives.
I assumed that's what I would do eventually. I honestly didn't think a door would be that cheap. Might do that anyway.Buy a new door.
Not to you, but everyone else. Find a Re-Store near you. It's run by Habitat for Humanity and they are a place where contractors drop off old and new unused shit all the time for tax write offs. I bought a new solid wood door for my basement/garage entryway for $12.00. Had to shave a little bit off the bottom, but it was perfect for what it needed to be.I would agree but if that was in the budget I think the problem would have been solved.
That said, depending on existing door/frame type, may be able to swap one from Habitat for $30 bucks or so. I just replaced a 6 panel 32inch exterior solid metal door for a 15 lite metal door the other day, even the damn hinge holes matched for $25.
Not to mention the other shit they carry. Tile, stone, trim, windows you name it.Not to you, but everyone else. Find a Re-Store near you. It's run by Habitat for Humanity and they are a place where contractors drop off old and new unused shit all the time for tax write offs. I bought a new solid wood door for my basement/garage entryway for $12.00. Had to shave a little bit off the bottom, but it was perfect for what it needed to be.
edit - link to stores:Habitat for Humanity ReStores ??" A good deal for you, your community and the environment. | Habitat for Humanity Intl
WTH. I get them to cut me steps/platforms all the time for $75 and that includes the granite, bevel 4 sides with 2 rounded edges. Usually things like 6-8 inchs x 48inches. Sure that isn't much surface area but it INCLUDES the granite.We looked for granite and marble remnants at our local ReStore. Yeah getting that huge remnant for $30 is sweet but by the time you have it cut to size, outer edges finished/rounded and a sink hole cut, it's cheaper just to order a countertop from your local cabinet market or whoever. You really only save a lot of money if you can cut the granite yourself. Going rate around here is $50 per cut, $100 if the cut needs to be finished/polished. So 2-4 cuts, a couple finished, sink hole cut, you're looking at $500+ just for the cutting
I make it a point to stop by my Restore (15 minutes away from me) every once in a while just to see what they got. More often than not, they have really outdated shit that people drop off after remodeling their homes. But they sometimes have some really good stuff.There's several ReStores in the metro Atlanta area but I've never been in one. Might have to check that out. I need to find some cabinet bases for the basement.