Home Improvement

Oldbased

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Ok MKopec , yes that is exactly what I did. You need to clean up some of the brick( the ones you remove off top would be best) you didn't break into pieces and find pavers that are close to what you have. Check Lowes/HD, brick yards.
Take a chunk of mortar and see if you can match it up as well. Standard Type N or S looks too grey and shiny for yours from what I can see in picture, you may have to add coloring( white ) to match it well enough. Go back over the exiting mortar lightly with it as well so it all matches.
Bricking is easy, a hell of a lot easier than demoing it. Just remember when laying it to get a brush and brush off excess mortar on the brick facing( part you want to see brick ) before it dries and apply some water and scrub again. If you let it dry it'll be acid time.


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Oldbased

> Than U
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Buy a new door.
I would agree but if that was in the budget I think the problem would have been solved.
That said, depending on existing door/frame type, may be able to swap one from Habitat for $30 bucks or so. I just replaced a 6 panel 32inch exterior solid metal door for a 15 lite metal door the other day, even the damn hinge holes matched for $25.
 

mkopec

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Ok cool. I dont really care about color, because if we decide to keep brick, the wife wants it all painted anyway. We fucking hate that dark red brick color.
 

Oldbased

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I was going to say earlier that is about the ugliest color brick ever made. I cringe when I see HOUSES done in that shit lol.
Ok then you won't have to be all that precise and picky at all then.
Need anything else just let me know.
 

mkopec

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Cool bro, thanks for your help. Especially on the chisel thing, you saved my house a ton of unnecessary dust.
 

Deathwing

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Confused by the door part. Nearly all wood doors that would rot have no plastic, unless around a window casement. All metals doors have plastic around the same casement but usually lack much wood to rot except at the sides for support/stability. Most used to use a cardboard corrugated core , now many use foam. Either way you can fill in that void some is you can access the inside of the door through a hole or whatever and use a NON EXPANDING foam. Do not use expanding foam. Use the kind meant specifically to fill voids without expansion pressure or you will buckle the door. Then seal up.

On a properly built house you will have at the sill plate( wood secured to foundation for framing of the house these layers. Studs/Sheeting which is ply, brick board or foam board, house wrap, additional insulation if siding ( much thinner than the first ) then finish cover which is board, siding,brick, rock.

The reason it is loose is all siding is nailed at the top. There SHOULD be a nailing strip the bottom of that panel snaps into it. Either they skimped on it, or it has fallen off or simply come undone. It will basically look like a 2-3 inch piece of metal at the same level as the bottom of the siding nailed into studs. The siding snaps onto it preventing it from being loose.

Now if it is just flashing and was never there, then that was some piss poor work done by the siding guys, but not all that uncommon, these days I've seen it all.
Vines and plants grow up underneath stuff like that all the time, simply cut and pull out what you can, what remains will eventually rot away if the growth is thick ( >1/4 inch thick ) you will want to remove it simply from crimping/damaging the siding. It is meant to be flat to the wall.

As far as securing it without a nailing strip, exterior adhesive may be your best bet, like liquid nail or along those lines and keep plant growth from reaching it again.

Mko, it is hard work. I find a 2 or 3 lb sledge works best( the short smaller version of the murder weapon ) unless you do like I did last week and miss the chisel and hit your hand, in which case I suggest explosives.
It's not a sturdy door. It's one of those cheap ones that auto-retract. The soft part IS near the window. Plastic on the outside, rotted wood(that I can see) on the inside.


As for the loose siding, when I said plant matter, I meant stuff like blown leaves and maple seeds(seriously, fuck those trees). Nothing is growing on my house, I would tear that shit down immediately. It does look like this was sealed at one point, the flashing that connects to the porch looks almost like it was scored. Or maybe there was adhesive and it just failed. Definitely no nail holes though(I'm probably misunderstanding you). Either way, remove what I can and then seal it? I don't have to worry about replacing the styrofoam? I'm guessing it's just there for the siding and not really insulation?

Buy a new door.
I assumed that's what I would do eventually. I honestly didn't think a door would be that cheap. Might do that anyway.
 

Oldbased

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the Styrofoam if it is the 1/4 inch stuff is just a noise/wind insulating barrier, on the real sheathing of the house. Metal siding can be noisy and it is usually under it to buffer it in wind/storm movement. It won't rot, it doesn't decay so unless it is unsightly/loose cover it back up.

This is vinyl but applies to metal siding as well that is the nailer strip behind it that it snaps into. Unless you have vertical siding panels?
This is why I need pictures;/
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Deathwing

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Oh, yeah, the foam won't rot. The plant matter might if I trap in there.

Standard horizontal siding. Pretty sure there's no nailer strip, just flashing.
 

Draegan_sl

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I would agree but if that was in the budget I think the problem would have been solved.
That said, depending on existing door/frame type, may be able to swap one from Habitat for $30 bucks or so. I just replaced a 6 panel 32inch exterior solid metal door for a 15 lite metal door the other day, even the damn hinge holes matched for $25.
Not to you, but everyone else. Find a Re-Store near you. It's run by Habitat for Humanity and they are a place where contractors drop off old and new unused shit all the time for tax write offs. I bought a new solid wood door for my basement/garage entryway for $12.00. Had to shave a little bit off the bottom, but it was perfect for what it needed to be.

edit - link to stores:Habitat for Humanity ReStores - A good deal for you, your community and the environment. | Habitat for Humanity Intl
 

Oldbased

> Than U
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Bastards. I hate seeing/hearing things done half assed. Ya just clean out what stuff you can and liquid nail it back on. It is hard to install nail strips after the fact, especially metal which doesn't lend to bending well.
Just enough every few feet to hold it to the wall. Do not do it all the way down the line, allow it to breathe and have some movement.
 

Oldbased

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Not to you, but everyone else. Find a Re-Store near you. It's run by Habitat for Humanity and they are a place where contractors drop off old and new unused shit all the time for tax write offs. I bought a new solid wood door for my basement/garage entryway for $12.00. Had to shave a little bit off the bottom, but it was perfect for what it needed to be.

edit - link to stores:Habitat for Humanity ReStores ??" A good deal for you, your community and the environment. | Habitat for Humanity Intl
Not to mention the other shit they carry. Tile, stone, trim, windows you name it.
Hell I needed a 36" range hood which costs a lot more these days brand new in box for $20 last year.

I constantly find granite tops for vanities for 30 there. Hell the under mounted sink is worth 5x that.
 

Heylel

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There's several ReStores in the metro Atlanta area but I've never been in one. Might have to check that out. I need to find some cabinet bases for the basement.
 

Joeboo

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We looked for granite and marble remnants at our local ReStore. Yeah getting that huge remnant for $30 is sweet but by the time you have it cut to size, outer edges finished/rounded and a sink hole cut, it's cheaper just to order a countertop from your local cabinet market or whoever. You really only save a lot of money if you can cut the granite yourself. Going rate around here is $50 per cut, $100 if the cut needs to be finished/polished. So 2-4 cuts, a couple finished, sink hole cut, you're looking at $500+ just for the cutting
 

Oldbased

> Than U
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We looked for granite and marble remnants at our local ReStore. Yeah getting that huge remnant for $30 is sweet but by the time you have it cut to size, outer edges finished/rounded and a sink hole cut, it's cheaper just to order a countertop from your local cabinet market or whoever. You really only save a lot of money if you can cut the granite yourself. Going rate around here is $50 per cut, $100 if the cut needs to be finished/polished. So 2-4 cuts, a couple finished, sink hole cut, you're looking at $500+ just for the cutting
WTH. I get them to cut me steps/platforms all the time for $75 and that includes the granite, bevel 4 sides with 2 rounded edges. Usually things like 6-8 inchs x 48inches. Sure that isn't much surface area but it INCLUDES the granite.
They do the long cuts at shop but all the edges and stuff are done by file/diamond disk/grinders and takes them only minutes except bullnose and roundover. I've even had them do countertop edges in place before. Never got charged those rates.
Then again I am a contractor.

They probably charging that due to the fact you didn't buy it with them, the guys I use always tell people the finishing, installation and cutting is just to sell the stone.

The crazy prices is in heavy glass doors. $1300 for 2 pieces of glass and 4 hinges. I'll post a picture of that shower in a day or two, same place as fireplace above I posted a few pages back when I was doing roughin.
Here is something to keep in mind speaking of that. The glass place I ordered it from said they had bunches that were sized wrong, customer changed mind whatever and he would sell them to me next time for like $400 but I would have to farm it to fit. So if you are redoing a shower ever and want to use them, call the glass place first and ask if they got any they want to get rid of before paying full custom price.
 

Draegan_sl

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There's several ReStores in the metro Atlanta area but I've never been in one. Might have to check that out. I need to find some cabinet bases for the basement.
I make it a point to stop by my Restore (15 minutes away from me) every once in a while just to see what they got. More often than not, they have really outdated shit that people drop off after remodeling their homes. But they sometimes have some really good stuff.
 

Draegan_sl

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Ok I have a problem here I think. My next phase of my project is installing window casing and a new stool. The current stool is about 3/4" thick and the stool I bought is 1 1/8" thick. I'm going to have to do some heavy modifying I think.

Anyone have any suggestions? I'm thinking that I might have to shave some of the supporting 2x4 in the window frame to get the stool into the window. It's going to be close.

I haven't removed the old stool yet, so I haven't had a chance to look in there. The window is flush inside the wall, there isn't any sill or anything that I can work with.
 

Oldbased

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That is a bit confusing, Usually stools are 1 to 1 1/8 thick. I've seen people make them out of 1x4 ripped down sanded round edges though. That extra height shouldn't matter is why I am confused. Grab me a closeup of the window if you can.
 

Oldbased

> Than U
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It shouldn't be a issue to be honest especially since you are redoing the casing as well. If it is, we'll make it a nonissue
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