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Hateyou

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Noooo on white desk at the least. It’ll get scratched up and show everything. Get yourself a fully Jarvis bamboo desk or if you want a cheaper manual alternative I’d highly recommend the manual adjustable husky workbenches from Home Depot. I use both. Everything else wood.

Definitely rock monitor arms if you don’t. I just upgraded 3 monitors to ergotron arms and the real estate is epic.
Pics?
 

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
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I will only post one. It’s too custom and I don’t need faggots doxxing me.

I have a Jarvis with dual eizos on ergotron dual monitor on 60” (78” top on order) Fully Jarvis. Herman Miller embody chair.

Other wall has 72” manually adjustable husky bench top with the custom two shelf mount I made for on top using galvanized steel and birch plywood. This is my electronics workbench so I have things like my oscilloscope, table top PSU, soldering station, and then another ergotron single monitor with a cheapo asus that I use for nvidia jetsons, raspberry pi’s and other small dev computer kits.

Excuse the weird stuff in the window, had to edit reflections, and the mess.. This is from last week after just having finished the shelves and mounted. I have treston ESD small parts drawers coming to sit on the top shelf. Right side of desk will receive ESD mat. Have added dresco ESD wristband holder on right side. Treston part drawers, mat and wristband will all be tied to earth ground with dresco multipoint continuous monitoring hub.

I’ve added a hakko FA430 smoke extractor on the right (not seen in this pic).

EEFBE1CD-2B7A-4C92-AC13-09E829591D11.jpeg


Have a 46” wide husky tool chest on third wall.

Then I use ladder bookshelves in the remaining free space - one holds office supplies/printer. The other, which is on order, will hold smaller sterilite containers that contain things like cables, hard drives, small development boards, etc. Having mulled optimal storage options this seemed like the best route.
 

The_Black_Log Foler

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Oh I also label EVERYTHING mainly because I just have a shit ton of small electronics parts. This label maker will CHANGE YOUR LIFE! Label everything from drawers, cables, maybe even pets.

 

Hateyou

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Wth you doing at your house that you need a four channel oscope? And why you buying a cheapo Siglent Mr. moneybags?
 
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The_Black_Log Foler

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Wth you doing at your house that you need a four channel oscope? And why you buying a cheapo Siglent Mr. moneybags?
This guy. My twin 1.2k monitors, 1.5k chair, etc and of course he finds the siglents! They’re all I need - majority of stuff I do is low voltage electronics and signal integrity for communication protocols (I2C, SPI, UART, etc). I do have a saleae Logic Pro 8 and jlink plus mini - I spend more $ where it really benefits me.

I think I’ve said it before on the forum - I’m an American Inventor.
 

Hateyou

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And do you do electronics Hateyou Hateyou or just a googler? 🤔
Used to at work, and I’m still around it. Enough to know that the four channel oscope is rarely needed/overkill. I think we may have used more than two channels while hunting down an obscure EMI problem with a gear motor and a communications board. I have no idea what you’re doing so maybe it’s necessary but I see you only have two leads connected so probably not.
 
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The_Black_Log Foler

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Used to at work, and I’m still around it. Enough to know that the four channel oscope is rarely needed/overkill. I think we may have used more than two channels while hunting down an obscure EMI problem with a gear motor and a communications board. I have no idea what you’re doing so maybe it’s necessary but I see you only have two leads connected so probably not.
Yeah. Don’t need four channels for what I’ve been working on. Think it was like $100 more for four channel option so why not 🤷‍♂️.

Amazing how cheap oscopes have come down the past 10 years. A lot of the siglents and rigols are hackable to unlock extra features.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
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Yeah digital scopes have really dropped in price. I have an old analog scope and it wasn't cheap.
 
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Deathwing

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Got my water softener replaced recently. What was originally copper is now partially PEX. I think the previous install depended upon the rigidity of the copper. When the valve opens and water flows out of the softener(into the house), that pipe gets a bit wobbly for a few seconds. What would be the best way to secure an insulated pipe for all(or I guess vertical) directions of motion?

Please ignore the water damage on the ceiling tile, it's looked like that since we moved in and hasn't changed. It's the pipe on the right and the horizontal part is about 6 inches away from the joist.
 

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The_Black_Log Foler

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Got my water softener replaced recently. What was originally copper is now partially PEX. I think the previous install depended upon the rigidity of the copper. When the valve opens and water flows out of the softener(into the house), that pipe gets a bit wobbly for a few seconds. What would be the best way to secure an insulated pipe for all(or I guess vertical) directions of motion?

Please ignore the water damage on the ceiling tile, it's looked like that since we moved in and hasn't changed. It's the pipe on the right and the horizontal part is about 6 inches away from the joist.
I can’t remember how this is done but knocking can be a common issue with odd. Maybe BrutulTM BrutulTM has some advice. I think he’s a plumber.
 

Thaloc

Molten Core Raider
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Got my water softener replaced recently. What was originally copper is now partially PEX. I think the previous install depended upon the rigidity of the copper. When the valve opens and water flows out of the softener(into the house), that pipe gets a bit wobbly for a few seconds. What would be the best way to secure an insulated pipe for all(or I guess vertical) directions of motion?

Please ignore the water damage on the ceiling tile, it's looked like that since we moved in and hasn't changed. It's the pipe on the right and the horizontal part is about 6 inches away from the joist.
Pipe hangers or plumbers strap.
 

Lanx

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Got my water softener replaced recently. What was originally copper is now partially PEX. I think the previous install depended upon the rigidity of the copper. When the valve opens and water flows out of the softener(into the house), that pipe gets a bit wobbly for a few seconds. What would be the best way to secure an insulated pipe for all(or I guess vertical) directions of motion?

Please ignore the water damage on the ceiling tile, it's looked like that since we moved in and hasn't changed. It's the pipe on the right and the horizontal part is about 6 inches away from the joist.
if you didn't do the install yourself, you can just turn the water off, cut the pex (i'm assuming it's 3/4, maybe it's 1in, you should measure) and just slip on this sharkbite
adafe075b42152d2c99fa6c650fa3383.png


or just google water arrestor and get a any one, copper only or whatever
 
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Fogel

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I thought those were for resting the pipe. Those will stop upward motion too?

You'll want an arrestor like the others have linked. Even if you anchor the pipe, you're not solving the issue of the water pressure caused from the valve closing, so if you anchor the pipe eventually the pressure will cause the pipe to fail at one of the joints.
 
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Deathwing

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How do I know I want an arrestor? There's a fair amount of pipe that's not anchored and the motion could be caused by expected valve behavior and pressure.

Not sure I have the tools or knowledge for installing that. I'll admit I get anxious in this area because I know I don't know enough. Like until an hour ago, the concept of a water arrestor was completely foreign to me. When my washing machine switches off, it makes a loud noise in the pipes(this is prior to the water softener installation). I thought it was just normal usage.