Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
Goatface
Avatar of War Slayer
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was told, blocks in the ground with year around water would require a lot of extra work.
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I don't know where in the US you are, but you can look up a precast concrete distributor in your area and they will sell you a basin with knockouts (thinner concrete so you can hammer out the holes you need and patch after connection). The depth is made up by risers, yes, but typically the precast concrete manufacturers only have forms in certain sizes. You'd have to settle for the configurations they offer.
Does it have to be concrete or will plastic work? Will there be traffic on it?
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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You could also DIY it with a homemade form or even a couple nested sonotubes and put some PVC pipes in there to make the holes and a few bags of quikcrete. It's a bit of work but it wouldn't cost much or be difficult and it can be the exact size/shape you want.
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55 gal plastic barrel? Ive seen those used. Some companies make large catch basins that look like barrels with proper knockouts. I've seen them myself but I have no idea where to source them. Plastic barrels should be easy though. Used food/veg oil barrels seem to be easy to get around here. About $30 each.
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I was curious and I googled. Would this work?
NDS FWAS24 50 Gal. Flo Stormwater Dry Well System Kit with 3 Side Panels & 1 Cover, Black Amazon product ASIN B000BO58CU
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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after a year of waiting finally see my ryobi lawnmower crosscut blades for sale, put them on and they cut better... but not what i hoped, figured out theyre kinda dull, gave em a quick polish and def way better but started to rain, so will see later.
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Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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My understanding is that (off the shelf) lawn mower blades are ground to 40 degrees because any shallower of an angle wears down pretty quick. If you're willing to touch them up every other cut then you'll definitely get better results from a shallower 20-30 degree edge. I wouldn't go shallower than that unless you're willing to sharpen literally every time you mow. Also, mind your heat when you're grinding mower blades. If you temper them and they hit something harder than a grass blade, they will shatter instead of bend. I'll let your imagine inform you on why that would be a bad situation.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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i have a worksharp belt grinder and my ocd has me whipping it out before everytime i mow and just giving a quick pass w/ the fine belt
Nirgon
Log Wizard
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Anyone got any ideas for landscaping the hell out of a woodsie backyard that is infested by jungle creep?
I've done enough manually to hold it back but I'm gonna need a longer term solution.
Issues:
Roots all about at bottom of deck stairs
Way too many god damned leaves, I can rake like an insane person from when the work whistle blows until bed time and there's just more there the next day. Leaf blowing all of it takes hours, gonna get shit majorly pruned.
Then, the worst thing, is the creep if that rolls in. Best way I can describe it is the floor of the jungle constantly encroaching and me beating it back with a shovel and reseeding.
Plan:
I'd like to think I could stave off the creep some how...
Roots I have no idea how to work around or manage. They suck.
Entire thing is shaded and a nightmare to seed and keep alive
I've done enough manually to hold it back but I'm gonna need a longer term solution.
Issues:
Roots all about at bottom of deck stairs
Way too many god damned leaves, I can rake like an insane person from when the work whistle blows until bed time and there's just more there the next day. Leaf blowing all of it takes hours, gonna get shit majorly pruned.
Then, the worst thing, is the creep if that rolls in. Best way I can describe it is the floor of the jungle constantly encroaching and me beating it back with a shovel and reseeding.
Plan:
I'd like to think I could stave off the creep some how...
Roots I have no idea how to work around or manage. They suck.
Entire thing is shaded and a nightmare to seed and keep alive
Falstaff
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Anybody have experience with snow stoppers on a metal roof? It doesn't happen that often but twice this year I've had a heavy wet snow that then slid off of my roof onto the back deck and buried it 4 feet deep which I am very much not a fan of.
To hell with this....
To hell with this....
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Nirgon
Log Wizard
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Ya I'm going to hire someone to fuck with all of this heavy duty stuff. But what direction I give them will matter I'm sure.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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i have a really rooty tree, for thin roots a cir saw does well. for thick trunk roots i grinded em down with an angle grinder with a masonary wheel
Nirgon
Log Wizard
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Someone told me grinding any of the roots will just kill the whole tree. Of course it's the nice one I really wanna keep.
I'm not so willing to believe that...
Goatface
Avatar of War Slayer
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how much of them is above ground? and how far away it the tree?
guess it depends on the tree but most times it means tree isn't getting enough water below ground. it could be a bad sign if too many are on/near surface, makes it more acceptable to being blown over.
probably best to get an arborist to look at your trees and your plan to prune especially if they are big enough to fall over and damage stuff. a tall tree with weak roots can be fine while other trees are acting a wind break.
guess it depends on the tree but most times it means tree isn't getting enough water below ground. it could be a bad sign if too many are on/near surface, makes it more acceptable to being blown over.
probably best to get an arborist to look at your trees and your plan to prune especially if they are big enough to fall over and damage stuff. a tall tree with weak roots can be fine while other trees are acting a wind break.
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I have equipped a number of different buildings with roof stops - they really do make a big difference, not just with the amount of snow falling, but with wear and tear on your gutters. Some are very simple, glue-on plastic ones. They work surprisingly well, though a couple will fall off every year. Be sure to get the adhesive specifically for it, it's designed to not break down in the vast temperature changes on the roof. Like this:
Clear Sno-Safe Snow Guard
Sno-Safe Original Snow Guard manufactured in Clear color. Sno-Safe snow guards help prevent avalanching snow and ice from rooftops. They function as cleats to hold and then break up the snow as it melts. Sno-Safe snow guards are engineered for strength, inexpensive, and are simple to install...
sno-safe.com
But the real deal are the clamp on snow fences. I assume you have a standing seam steel roof? Like this:
Metal Roof Snow Stops - Metal Roof Snow Fence | S-5!
S-5! SnoFence is a two-rail metal roof snow stop system. Use our metal roof snow fence to reduce the risk of sliding snow from your roof profile. Learn more!
www.s-5.com
There are a million variations on both styles, as well as some in between versions like this:
Shop AP 400 Snow Guard | Gutter Supply
Shop at GutterSupply.com for Snow Guards and other Gutter Accessories.
You're going to get what you pay for. But they're worth doing.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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dude a tree has like a thousand roots
grinding down 1, or 10 exposed roots ain't gonna do shit to it, besides if you don't grind em down now, sooner or later they'll be scalped by mower blades, you think ppl haven't scalped a root before and now a 50yr old tree is all of a sudden gonna die?
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