Home Improvement

Intrinsic · Jun 21, 2022

Creslin said:
Silicon adhesive is definitely not a good way to stop a leak. Thread seal tape could work if the the parts are metal. They look like metal so that’s probably the way to go. It works on pvc too just not really recommended because you just need to make sure you don’t overtighten since seal tape makes tightening almost too easy.

Sorry this is the new one that is plastic, not the previous picture of the old. My fault for not being more specific.

Between the gasket and the bottom of the basin. I can tighten the jamb nut but there's still a small trickle coming out at the top of the gasket. It is like it didn't seat in the hole at the bottom despite my best efforts!

(picture for my own benefit)

lurkingdirk · Jun 21, 2022

I would do wood in a basement. If it floods, you can always dry out the wood and kill mold. If the studs rust, you're up shit's creek.

Daidraco · Jun 21, 2022

lurkingdirk said:
I would do wood in a basement. If it floods, you can always dry out the wood and kill mold. If the studs rust, you're up shit's creek.

If a basement is getting that wet, repeatedly, you've got some huge issues that will echo throughout the entire house. Foundation, drainage or sealing.

In a well designed, well cared for basement, steel studs are preferred because they wont do all the shit wood does with a little moisture.

Lanx · Jun 21, 2022

McCheese said:
Any suggestions on a specific luxury vinyl plank flooring to install on the concrete basement floor? I'm seeing a bunch of varieties, some with tongue and groove, some with adhesive edges, some with underlayment built in. We spend a lot of time in the basement, so I want something that will last with high traffic and also insulate fairly well from the cold concrete beneath.

home reno has a few series on vinyl plank, this is their most recent

their flooring play list (with basic flooring and vinyl)

Lanx · Jun 21, 2022

Intrinsic said:
Sorry this is the new one that is plastic, not the previous picture of the old. My fault for not being more specific.

Between the gasket and the bottom of the basin. I can tighten the jamb nut but there's still a small trickle coming out at the top of the gasket. It is like it didn't seat in the hole at the bottom despite my best efforts!

(picture for my own benefit)

View attachment 418330

is it the whitish, clear hard poly plastic gasket?

imo those suck, i had the same issue at my old place so i got rubber gaskets instead, that piece is called the tailpipe, so you get rubber tailpipe gaskets like this

Intrinsic · Jun 21, 2022

Lanx said:
is it the whitish, clear hard poly plastic gasket?

imo those suck, i had the same issue at my old place so i got rubber gaskets instead, that piece is called the tailpipe, so you get rubber tailpipe gaskets like this

Nah it is a pretty impressive chonky thick black rubber. Was difficult to slide up over the tailpipe threads for the nut. Looking at the instructions they call it a rubber washer.

I’m just going to take it all apart and reassemble.

Creslin · Jun 21, 2022

McCheese said:
Any suggestions on a specific luxury vinyl plank flooring to install on the concrete basement floor? I'm seeing a bunch of varieties, some with tongue and groove, some with adhesive edges, some with underlayment built in. We spend a lot of time in the basement, so I want something that will last with high traffic and also insulate fairly well from the cold concrete beneath.

Tongue and groove is really easy to install, adhesive is less forgiving since you need to get it right the first time.

Underpayment attached is also the way to go but in terms of insulation it’s negligible. No real alternative to that since anything with a noticeable r value would be like an inch thick of foam. It won’t feel as cold as concrete just like wood doesn’t feel as cold as tile but it won’t actually be insulating and saving on heat.

Fogel · Jun 21, 2022

Lanx said:
imo those suck, i had the same issue at my old place so i got rubber gaskets instead, that piece is called the tailpipe, so you get rubber tailpipe gaskets like this

I'll 2nd this, always use rubber when going in the tailpipe

whoo · Jun 21, 2022

Intrinsic said:
Sorry this is the new one that is plastic, not the previous picture of the old. My fault for not being more specific.

Between the gasket and the bottom of the basin. I can tighten the jamb nut but there's still a small trickle coming out at the top of the gasket. It is like it didn't seat in the hole at the bottom despite my best efforts!

(picture for my own benefit)

View attachment 418330

Did you use plumbers putty under the rim of the flange?

Intrinsic · Jun 21, 2022

whoo said:
Did you use plumbers putty under the rim of the flange?

Of course I used plumbers putty. Who doesn’t use plumbers putty? I mean look, I got plumbers putty. Plenty of it. You want some? Sure, fine, here have all you want. More from where that came from. Plumbers putty. Pshaw. This guy! Asking about plumbers putty. Huh.

(I used it up top under the drain but no, not in this particular spot. That was why I made the comment earlier about taking it apart, because I wanted to go back and add it without admitting that I did not)

mkopec · Jun 23, 2022

When my kid did the sink in our little bathroom off the laundry room, we had the same problem. It trickled out at the bottom so I jsut told him to tighten the shit out of it since the rubber gasket on the bottom, the one that sits between the bottom of the sink and the drain nut was a hard rubber. So he wiggled his wrench in there some more (tight squeeze because pedestal) and the leak stopped. The putty should only be applied above, not below where the rubber gasket is.

McCheese · Jun 23, 2022

The HVAC system in this house has a Trane CleanEffects installed. It's this thing that uses some kind of ionizing/electrical black magickery to make the air more pure or something:

Trane+Clean+Effects+Air+Cleaner+Removes+Potential+Asthma+Triggers+From+The+Air.png

The problem is that it keeps flashing red error codes. I know you can go into setup mode and figure out the error codes and do troubleshooting, but is it worth it? Can I just turn this shit off and run the AC normally, or will that cause some kind of issue? It's got the pre-filter and the two main filters inside, so I assume the air is still blowing through and getting filtered, right? Turning it off would just stop using the ionizing stuff.

I just don't want to turn it off and have it do some kind of damage to the AC system as a result, like clogging things up with too much dust/dirt or whatever.

Lanx · Jun 23, 2022

McCheese said:
The HVAC system in this house has a Trane CleanEffects installed. It's this thing that uses some kind of ionizing/electrical black magickery to make the air more pure or something:

View attachment 418755
The problem is that it keeps flashing red error codes. I know you can go into setup mode and figure out the error codes and do troubleshooting, but is it worth it? Can I just turn this shit off and run the AC normally, or will that cause some kind of issue? It's got the pre-filter and the two main filters inside, so I assume the air is still blowing through and getting filtered, right? Turning it off would just stop using the ionizing stuff.

I just don't want to turn it off and have it do some kind of damage to the AC system as a result, like clogging things up with too much dust/dirt or whatever.

the 2 main filters (the two thick slabs) only collect b/c the particles were charged w/ that honeycomb, if you turn it off then youre just relying on the thing prefilter

and it'll eventually lead to a dirty a-coil.

fixing my ac last week i autoplayed a few hvac videos i saw two where the tech saw the it turned off/taken apart.

Dandai · Jun 24, 2022

McCheese said:
The HVAC system in this house has a Trane CleanEffects installed. It's this thing that uses some kind of ionizing/electrical black magickery to make the air more pure or something:

View attachment 418755
The problem is that it keeps flashing red error codes. I know you can go into setup mode and figure out the error codes and do troubleshooting, but is it worth it? Can I just turn this shit off and run the AC normally, or will that cause some kind of issue? It's got the pre-filter and the two main filters inside, so I assume the air is still blowing through and getting filtered, right? Turning it off would just stop using the ionizing stuff.

I just don't want to turn it off and have it do some kind of damage to the AC system as a result, like clogging things up with too much dust/dirt or whatever.

I wouldn’t just turn it off. If you’ve given it your best effort and are still unable to resolve the error codes, I’d call a pro (and get them to service/clean your condenser outside while they’re there).

Not filtering the air before it goes into the air handler will allow dust and debris to collect on the coils. Dirty coils inside the air handler are expensive to clean if you hire a pro and frustrating/nerve wracking to clean yourself (the coolant is so pressurized that just a pin prick will cause it to ice over and stop working).

McCheese · Jun 24, 2022

Thanks. We've got someone coming to look at it, but earliest appointment we could get is a couple weeks away. I'll keep it on and keep an eye on it in the meantime.

I wonder, is there a more traditional filter I could buy to slide in instead of using the two big honeycomb ones? Maybe a disposable one that I can just change out periodically and then not have to deal with the electrical aspect of it?

Dandai · Jun 24, 2022

McCheese said:
Thanks. We've got someone coming to look at it, but earliest appointment we could get is a couple weeks away. I'll keep it on and keep an eye on it in the meantime.

I wonder, is there a more traditional filter I could buy to slide in instead of using the two big honeycomb ones? Maybe a disposable one that I can just change out periodically and then not have to deal with the electrical aspect of it?

I hesitate to give advice because there’s quite a few considerations. How dusty is your environment? Pets? How many people are living in the house? Etc.

The concern with adding a secondary filter on top of your current one (even temporarily) is if the airflow over the coils is too restricted/choked, the coils inside the air handler will ice over. You can try the secondary filter but you’ll want to monitor closely. Iced over coils won’t cause permanent damage and are resolved by just turning the air conditioning off until they thaw.

lurkingdirk · Jun 25, 2022

Actual photo someone took after the landlord painted the place.

Daidraco · Jun 25, 2022

lurkingdirk said:
Actual photo someone took after the landlord painted the place.

I'll never understand the landlords that do shit like this. There is more than enough information / statistics available to prove that if you just do it right or get a professional, that not only will you be able to charge a higher rent but you're more likely able to secure a better clientele. The fact this landlord just painted over the fuses is just icing on the cake.

Oblio · Jun 25, 2022

Those appear to be some pretty old fuses, any chance they had been terminated but never fully removed?

Erronius · Jun 27, 2022

lurkingdirk said:
Actual photo someone took after the landlord painted the place.

Not sure if those are Zinscos, but the general size/shape looks about right.

Little tiny subpanel of a brand that is notorious for starting fires and insurance won't cover if they know about it?

Now see that panel slathered in paint like a shit sandwich? They may not be a slumlord, but all indicators point to being a slumlord.

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Home Improvement

Intrinsic

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lurkingdirk

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Daidraco

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Lanx

Lanx

Intrinsic

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Creslin

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Fogel

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whoo

Intrinsic

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mkopec

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Lanx

Dandai

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McCheese

SW: Sean, CW: Crone, GW: Wizardhawk

Dandai

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lurkingdirk

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Daidraco

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Oblio

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Erronius

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Zinsco Electrical Panel Hazards Zinsco Circuit Breaker Information