Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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I agree. I had a similar problem with my first house (about 10 years ago) and lucked out with a competent repair guy and an inexpensive fix.
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Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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those attic vents was one of my first worries when i got my second house, i put paper towels under there making sure it wasn't went after a rainstorm, i've read conflicting views on pro or nay against against attic vents too
non scientific testing by myself seems to use the ac more w/ the attic fans turned on? so they just stay off.
Kithani
Blackwing Lair Raider
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Yeah I appreciate it guys, I was thinking the same thing about calling someone competent out to take a look sometime this week.
Fucker
Log Wizard
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Don't call someone. They're going to charge you so much just to show up. Get up there with roofing caulk, put it all the way around under the overlapping shingles, and cover the nails on the bottom really well. Also cover the bottom edge, as rain/snow can back up. This is something you can fix yourself.
Dunno. I've done that and regretted it. Caulking will work a few months until it doesn't, and then then you're in the same spot but permanently paranoid about it. I'd rather spend the money to have it fixed right and not be looking at rot repair in a few years.
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Recommendations for fixing shingles that aren't sheeting correctly? Water is getting behind the gutter in even light rain. I thought it was the gutters themselves as they were kinda beat up and sagging in the middle, so I had them replaced this summer. I can peak behind the fascia(garage) after a rain and tell it is damp. So, I'm not sure what's going on.
No rot yet, but same is occurring in the house, no access to the fascia there though.
People that sold the gutter work also recommended a system that would insert between the first and second shingle and the carry water into gutter with an oversized lip. I guess that would ensure water goes into the gutter, but that was an extra 3k, so wasnt in the budget. Anyone heard of this, know if it's good?
No rot yet, but same is occurring in the house, no access to the fascia there though.
People that sold the gutter work also recommended a system that would insert between the first and second shingle and the carry water into gutter with an oversized lip. I guess that would ensure water goes into the gutter, but that was an extra 3k, so wasnt in the budget. Anyone heard of this, know if it's good?
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Seriously, give it a try with the right roof sealer. Save yourself the money.
Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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What exactly do you think the roofer is gonna do other than caulk it? lmao
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Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Can't really diagnose the problem without pictures, too many possible causes.
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Fair enough, I'll get those. While it's raining? I have one saved from heavy downpour because I thought the gutters were overflowing.
Pull up the shingles and flashing and fix the shit job the previous guy did.
Every house I've lived in at one point or other I had leak problems, got a reliable guy up there, and his first comment was, "What moron did this?" And no, he wasn't just talking shit because the leaks stopped by after that. Apparently a lot of people either DIY or hire bargain bin roofers, and that does not result in quality outcomes.
By all means though, do what you like with your own roof.
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Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Box vents don't have flashing. You can either spend a few hundred dollars (possibly more) to have someone replace those shingles and install the box vent correctly (best guess from that one picture
Kithani
posted is that the shingles are cut wrong) or you can spend ten bucks on a tube of blackjack and kick the can down the road until it's time to replace the entire roof. One tube should be enough to repair it twice if the repair fails before its time to redo the roof.Nah, well lit pictures in clear weather.
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Haven't fixed the issue yet. I find if I run an extension chord to just inside the garage in my family room the breakers don't trip. Still a mystery.
I am going to put a subpanel in my garage next summer. I need more breakers out there, and I want to have hanging outlets that come down and then retract like I do in my shop. I have no idea what is going on, but I'm guessing it is the initial load of turning the saw on, and the 70s wiring.
*shrug*
Gavinmad
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Do you need an extra long guitar to play an extension chord?
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Had to look it up but here are your extension chords, just for our reference:
www.learnjazzstandards.com
Chord Extensions and Alterations: Master Jazz Harmony
Are you hitting roadblocks when it comes to chord extensions? In this post, we'll break down chord extensions, alterations, and everything you need to know!
www.learnjazzstandards.com
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Cutlery
Kill All the White People
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Well, I can finally seal the deal on the exterior of this project. I had a small leak during one of the rainstorms earlier in the month. Turns out I had a couple pinholes I didn't see in the sill. Caulked those, and then nature blessed me with a 50° day last Saturday and I took the garden hose to the window. I figure if it can take a full blast garden hose for 5 minutes, it can take a thunderstorm. No leaks, no moisture anywhere. So now, I can finally feel good about putting the drywall back up and redoing the trim on the inside of the window. It was a ton of work, but saved me probably $3000 over having someone do it.
Now, time to figure out how to not make this trim ugly as fuck.
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Daidraco
Avatar of War Slayer
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Someone help me pick a dark, almost chocolate floor from Lowes, Home Depot, or something like Lumber Liquidator (something around central Virginia basically). We didnt intend to flip this house, but here we are. My g/f chose this flooring for its all in one, ease of install, foot feel and color:
Barrington 7 mm T x 5.2 in W x 36.22 in L Waterproof Engineered Click Bamboo Flooring (13.07 sf/case)
It'll cover a rough estimate of 482 SQ/FT (not accounting for 10% extra), and need to fall within a budget around ~ $2000-2500 (no shipping necessary). The handyman I use for just about everything in Property Management is quoting $3 per sq/ft. Two stair nose moldings that cost roughly $125 for the rising platform into another area of the house. The rest of the area that its going in is a Dining Room and Kitchen open floor plan. All new baseboard molding (generic white, not designer) all around the sides is being replaced.
We're installing new cabinets and appliances into the Kitchen as well and have all of that purchased - but Im assuming the floor goes down before the cabinets (I forgot to ask.) The subfloor is a bit uneven in spots and squeaks in places. Im being told that the nails in those areas just need to be removed and have actual screws put in place to stop the squeaking. The underlayment that comes with the Barrington sounds convenient, but... again, Im not even sure what Im talking about past the realtor BS standpoint.
Barrington 7 mm T x 5.2 in W x 36.22 in L Waterproof Engineered Click Bamboo Flooring (13.07 sf/case)
It'll cover a rough estimate of 482 SQ/FT (not accounting for 10% extra), and need to fall within a budget around ~ $2000-2500 (no shipping necessary). The handyman I use for just about everything in Property Management is quoting $3 per sq/ft. Two stair nose moldings that cost roughly $125 for the rising platform into another area of the house. The rest of the area that its going in is a Dining Room and Kitchen open floor plan. All new baseboard molding (generic white, not designer) all around the sides is being replaced.
We're installing new cabinets and appliances into the Kitchen as well and have all of that purchased - but Im assuming the floor goes down before the cabinets (I forgot to ask.) The subfloor is a bit uneven in spots and squeaks in places. Im being told that the nails in those areas just need to be removed and have actual screws put in place to stop the squeaking. The underlayment that comes with the Barrington sounds convenient, but... again, Im not even sure what Im talking about past the realtor BS standpoint.