Home Improvement

Koushirou · Feb 4, 2023

Haus said:
Today's quickie project... A new front patio on the house.
Leveraging these drop and click tiles I picked up on Amazon :
Amazon product ASIN B07KLVQQTP
Front patio on our house is concrete. We're gearing up for painting the whole house so I've been sanding/stripping/prepping some and got fed up with the concrete patio. It was just level/not level enough to have water pool on it some when we got lots of rain or when the sprinklers were running, and then it would get slick, and I have in fact busted my ass on it once or twice.. so screw that. These are wood tiles on a plastic underframe, which lifts above the concrete surface and provides for water run off below the wood.

This project took 14 cases of the tiles above, total cost around $800.
First lay down the tiles which didn't require cutting :
View attachment 457041
View attachment 457046
Each box was 11 tiles (weird number..) and took one and a half boxes back to the table saw to cut some fitment pieces.... added those :
View attachment 457047
View attachment 457048

All this so far consumed a grand total of around 3 hours. Although it's shown me how out of shape I've gotten as being up and down laying down these tiles has me far more sore than I want to admit to.

Next will be to refurbish/repair those columns, then probably stain concrete as needed (which I realized in hindsight I should have done first, but I can just do around the edges as needed for cosmetics as they aren't attached to the concrete yet). Maybe add an edge board around the bottom of the concrete pad to fully conceal the concrete. Then the last step will be some selectively place concrete anchor bolts to attach these to the concrete under. Whole project will easily be under $1,000 for the wood and the columns.

Next step, prep the house for painting, and make that final call on if I'm going to paint the brick which seems to be all the fashion these days.

Those look pretty nice for the price and east of install. We have a concrete porch also that we eventually want to do something with, when the budget allows. These look like they might fit the bill. How flat did they end up laying/are the grooves in them just "designed" on or are they actually grooved? Would porch furniture sit on them okay, or would there be some wigglin'?

Haus · Feb 4, 2023

Koushirou said:
Those look pretty nice for the price and east of install. We have a concrete porch also that we eventually want to do something with, when the budget allows. These look like they might fit the bill. How flat did they end up laying/are the grooves in them just "designed" on or are they actually grooved? Would porch furniture sit on them okay, or would there be some wigglin'?

They are actual wood and actually grooved. So that's a positive in my mind. They laid really flat. There were a couple spots where there was some uneven-ness on my patio, but they handled them well. Seem stable, but I haven't tested furniture on them yet. I will end up needing to permanently affix them to the patio when I'm closer to fully done since if you step right on the edge/corner of the patio it is a bit , as you would say, "wigglin'". Here's a close up of a cross section. It also shows the plastic under-grid which allows for the runoff of any water...

Daidraco · Feb 4, 2023

Haus said:
They are actual wood and actually grooved. So that's a positive in my mind. They laid really flat. There were a couple spots where there was some uneven-ness on my patio, but they handled them well. Seem stable, but I haven't tested furniture on them yet. I will end up needing to permanently affix them to the patio when I'm closer to fully done since if you step right on the edge/corner of the patio it is a bit , as you would say, "wigglin'". Here's a close up of a cross section. It also shows the plastic under-grid which allows for the runoff of any water...
View attachment 457057

Ive never messed with anything like those. Are they suppose to lay in a line like that? Wouldnt it improve the rigidity of the system if they were laid in a staggered pattern?

On a separate note: Anyone know of a Nut & washer combo that is almost flat? Im looking at installing something into a Kitchen Cabinet and I dont want a nut and washer being an annoyance inside the cabinet.

Dandai · Feb 4, 2023

Daidraco said:
Ive never messed with anything like those. Are they suppose to lay in a line like that? Wouldnt it improve the rigidity of the system if they were laid in a staggered pattern?

On a separate note: Anyone know of a Nut & washer combo that is almost flat? Im looking at installing something into a Kitchen Cabinet and I dont want a nut and washer being an annoyance inside the cabinet.

Assuming countersinking and covering with a veneer isn’t an option?

Intrinsic · Feb 4, 2023

Daidraco said:
You can just get a pair of End Cutting Pliers, sit on your ass and pull (cut and hammer down stubborn) each staple. Time intensive, but getting it perfect will give you the best results for the flooring.

Do the wall paint before you do any work with the trim.

The trim work around the window is easy if you have the correct tools. But if not, Box Store/Lowes will have something similar to replace it with and will cut it to the desired size. Dont patch, just replace trim work. Use "trim nails" to put the piece down, use caulk to fill the holes from the nails and paint over top of it and the rest of the molding. Make sure you have a really, really thin paint to use on the trim work. Paint once, use fine sandpaper over it lightly, then paint it a second time to get it looking great. Match the brush to the type of paint for the best results.

Vinyl Plank Flooring is extremely easy to install. Unfortunately, if you think your back hurts now - you'll really feel it after laying the planks. Get yourself a pair of cushioned knee pads and an orthopedic back brace to help. The picture gives the idea that the planks can slide up under the moulding. But if not, leave a small gap so they can float and put shoe molding down to hide the gaps (treat the shoe molding with the same directions as the window trim work above.) The LVT "Install Kits" are fucking worthless. Buy a rubber mallet and that should be all you need. The puller and spacers are unnecessary in the grand scheme. The LVT Cutter is good, but some are expensive. If you have a portable table saw and a jig saw, then you're good to go regardless.

Depending on the distance to lowes (or w/e) - probably a couple days with most of it spent on waiting on paint to dry.

This is the window. It isn't even really bad, just sort of a "while I'm at it" thing.

Haus · Feb 4, 2023

Daidraco said:
Ive never messed with anything like those. Are they suppose to lay in a line like that? Wouldnt it improve the rigidity of the system if they were laid in a staggered pattern?

They have "ducktail" style connectors along the edge and only seem to work lined up in a grid. I thought about that too, staggering them somewhat "subway tile" style.

Lanx · Feb 4, 2023

Intrinsic said:
This is the window. It isn't even really bad, just sort of a "while I'm at it" thing.

View attachment 457078

try using this stuff

i saw a video on it, after i had repaired 3 ledges on my old house (i never looked at the ledges outside, lots of rot)
i used mixwax

and while it was really good for the top of the ledge, i had to make it extra thiccc and put a cardboard mold around it for the edges

the epox putty is like playdoh so it's probably much easier, especially since your issue is edges

i also read (after the fact) that should hammer in a few finishing nails like rebar for the putty to grip onto and strength.

Lanx · Feb 4, 2023

found video

Intrinsic · Feb 4, 2023

Lanx said:
found video

Interesting… that’s almost an exact example. I’ll watch that tomorrow and see. Thanks.

Lanx · Feb 4, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Interesting… that’s almost an exact example. I’ll watch that tomorrow and see. Thanks.

pretty sure video begins w/
so the dog...

Daidraco · Feb 5, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Interesting… that’s almost an exact example. I’ll watch that tomorrow and see. Thanks.

With it being 6 months out -

Lanx 's video might be worth a try. It'll look "ok" at best, but if you're fine with that - who cares. It'll chip / break when damaged vs a small dent (which you're going to have a 2 year old in there eventually...). I personally am just not a fan of it since the full repair looks better and is generally incredibly easy and almost just as cheap. Im going the extra mile below because I wholeheartedly disagree with Lanx on this.
-----
If you take a carpenters knife and cut around the edges, thatll break the seam that was created by the original caulk between the sheetrock and the board. The board is super simple after looking at the up-close.

You may have to take a saw and cut the ends off so you can pry the board upwards without harming the sheetrock. The nails will be in that center column of wood of course. The new board will slide into place and just put the new nails in the same area as the last ones. Caulk around the edges (use painters tape if you're not good with the "finger method" to keep it looking good. Dont forget to fill in the nail holes with that same caulk. Then get a thin paint of super white with ultra shine (or w/e the box store wants to call it), paint it once, sand it down with really fine grit sandpaper, then paint it one more time with a brush that matches the paint (Latex Brush etc.).

It sounds like a lot, but I assure you its not. Just knowing the steps is like 90% of the battle.

Heres a fresh install video if that helps. Seeing a before and after will help give you an idea of not only how to put it on but also whats holding the old one there. (Time stamped at ~2:50)

Lanx · Feb 5, 2023

Daidraco said:
It'll chip / break when damaged vs a small dent (which you're going to have a 2 year old in there eventually...).

these resins become as hard as wood. i even used it to fill in a deadbolt hole and it was stronger than the shitty door wood.

Foler · Feb 5, 2023

This should maybe go in homesteading thread but I figure home improvement ppl have the knowledge.

Starting to build more buildings (really sheds, barns etc) on my land. In an ideal world I would tap my underground transformer and run it straight from their. However, this would require a meter from electrical company for the structure, which in turn would require an address for the structure (according to county). Not seeing any way around this so it is what is is..

Currently have one smallish barn that has underground tapped from house panel running 300 yards to it. I want to either run 500 yards from that barn or if I ran from house it would be like 800+ yards.

How to avoid voltage drop? Upgrade my main meter to higher amps?

Daidraco · Feb 5, 2023

Lanx said:
these resins become as hard as wood. i even used it to fill in a deadbolt hole and it was stronger than the shitty door wood.

Its a resin - yes its very hard. When something heavy slams into it, (like a two year old hitting it with something) it'll break like a ceramic. The Wood would just dent in that case and be far less noticeable. (Especially if you're using real wood and not some MDF bullshit that your random Box Store shopper buys thinking its just as good as wood.) Versus your patch job repair that'll probably need to be redone all over. Again, as simple as the job is - its just better to replace. But if you're fine with your resin job, then thats all that really matters.

Daidraco · Feb 5, 2023

Foler said:
This should maybe go in homesteading thread but I figure home improvement ppl have the knowledge.

Starting to build more buildings (really sheds, barns etc) on my land. In an ideal world I would tap my underground transformer and run it straight from their. However, this would require a meter from electrical company for the structure, which in turn would require an address for the structure (according to county). Not seeing any way around this so it is what is is..

Currently have one smallish barn that has underground tapped from house panel running 300 yards to it. I want to either run 500 yards from that barn or if I ran from house it would be like 800+ yards.

How to avoid voltage drop? Upgrade my main meter to higher amps?

Erronius is probably the go-to source for this question. But I found this, which seems to indirectly answer your question as to what wire size/breaker you need.

Wire Size Calculator

Erronius · Feb 5, 2023

The separate meter isn't uncommon but it depends. Needing a separate address is just dumb. There's a lot of rural places with barns and such that have their own services and those counties DGAF about giving them addresses. But that's not in Florida so who knows.

It would be easier if the meter was at the transformer connection but I'm guessing it's at the house. Then you could tap on the load side of the meter. Of course, the problem there is that you're tapping off the 120/240 and who knows how long of a run it is from there so right back to the voltage drop issue.

The voltage drop is a significant red flag at those distances. It's almost always better to place a transformer at the building when they're that far away. But then again you're dealing with having to have another meter and address.

300 yards is already a long run. 500-800 is just ridiculous. You can upsize the conductors but even for a small service you'd be spending an arm and a leg just to run larger conductors to offset the voltage drop.

I don't know where the break-even point is, between running extremely large conductors 500-800yds (probably underground, so trenching, probably URD type cable, maybe in PVC or direct bury) and running a new power line & poles to the new building with a pole mounted transformer and a new service. But pretty sure there is one.

The real question is how your local utility handles it. If they'll pay to install a new power line to feed another transformer, then it's a really easy answer. But they probably won't, meaning that you would really need to compare quotes for both scenarios.

Whenever I've seen a utility be willing to front part or all of the linebuilding cost, it's been out in rural BFE with folks that can't necessarily afford the cost of building a new power line out to a barn somewhere.

Off the top of my head 50a is normally like 6g, but a 120/240 single phase 50a run at 800yds is going to push you into mcm/kcmil territory. Then most spools of URD I think are either 500ft or 1000ft, so for 800yds you figure you'd need to account for spots to end a run and splice. Probably something like a quasite box or some sort of pedestal with an enclosure above ground. You could choose multiple parallel conductors instead of single conductors, but that doesn't necessarily cut your cost.

I still think the best option is to build a new power line on poles out to the structure, mount a transformer there with a new service and a new address. Because tapping off your house with that long of a run is nuts.

Foler · Feb 5, 2023

Erronius said:
The separate meter isn't uncommon but it depends. Needing a separate address is just dumb. There's a lot of rural places with barns and such that have their own services and those counties DGAF about giving them addresses. But that's not in Florida so who knows.

It would be easier if the meter was at the transformer connection but I'm guessing it's at the house. Then you could tap on the load side of the meter. Of course, the problem there is that you're tapping off the 120/240 and who knows how long of a run it is from there so right back to the voltage drop issue.

The voltage drop is a significant red flag at those distances. It's almost always better to place a transformer at the building when they're that far away. But then again you're dealing with having to have another meter and address.

300 yards is already a long run. 500-800 is just ridiculous. You can upsize the conductors but even for a small service you'd be spending an arm and a leg just to run larger conductors to offset the voltage drop.

I don't know where the break-even point is, between running extremely large conductors 500-800yds (probably underground, so trenching, probably URD type cable, maybe in PVC or direct bury) and running a new power line & poles to the new building with a pole mounted transformer and a new service. But pretty sure there is one.

The real question is how your local utility handles it. If they'll pay to install a new power line to feed another transformer, then it's a really easy answer. But they probably won't, meaning that you would really need to compare quotes for both scenarios.

Whenever I've seen a utility be willing to front part or all of the linebuilding cost, it's been out in rural BFE with folks that can't necessarily afford the cost of building a new power line out to a barn somewhere.

Off the top of my head 50a is normally like 6g, but a 120/240 single phase 50a run at 800yds is going to push you into mcm/kcmil territory. Then most spools of URD I think are either 500ft or 1000ft, so for 800yds you figure you'd need to account for spots to end a run and splice. Probably something like a quasite box or some sort of pedestal with an enclosure above ground. You could choose multiple parallel conductors instead of single conductors, but that doesn't necessarily cut your cost.

I still think the best option is to build a new power line on poles out to the structure, mount a transformer there with a new service and a new address. Because tapping off your house with that long of a run is nuts.

Meter is at the house. I had no idea it could be at transformer until like one hour ago after doing research.. it would make more sense for me to have meter at the transformer - had all my electrical on property put underground and I bought the new transformer that sits on my property..

No they won’t pay for anything on property. I paid around $11k 2 years ago to convert to underground on property.

The problem is, utility company needs an address for the meter. County requires a home be on the lot to issue address. My property of 20 acres is divided into two lots. The other lot is where this 60 year old barn sits. My house sits on the other lot… hence the weird predicament..

Now that you mention it I do wonder if they pay up to the transformer. I can’t remember… If I could put the transformer way back in my property and this is the case that’d be great. Still have addressing issue…

isn’t necessarily a money issue. I had the entire process of running cable from transformer to barn until county fucked me.

Interestingly enough, you can see at one point where the original pole transformer on my property was ran to the barn (abandoned poles on way to barn). I assume at one point it got knocked down and was Jerry rigged underground from house.

Can only assume it had a meter at that point…..

I wanted transformer to go to barn because then it would open up more options to tap barn breaker for nearby electrical (outdoor well etc) instead of running from house.

May look into vested rights determination. Barn and house were built in 1960..

BrutulTM · Feb 5, 2023

If you are okay with having lower limits for your max current draw you can get away with smaller wire. Less current = less voltage drop. I have run wire underground 600 feet for my well at my old house and I think we used 0 gauge aluminum direct bury. We may not have spec'ed it for 50 amps though since it was just to run the pump and a tank heater. With the price of wire right now it's not going to be cheap.

My electric company charges $500/year for a meter in addition to the cost of electricity so just having one meter is nice if you can do it.

Erronius · Feb 5, 2023

Foler said:
Meter is at the house. I had no idea it could be at transformer until like one hour ago after doing research.. it would make more sense for me to have meter at the transformer - had all my electrical on property put underground and I bought the new transformer that sits on my property..

No they won’t pay for anything on property. I paid around $11k 2 years ago to convert to underground on property.

The problem is, utility company needs an address for the meter. County requires a home be on the lot to issue address. My property of 20 acres is divided into two lots. The other lot is where this 60 year old barn sits. My house sits on the other lot… hence the weird predicament..

Now that you mention it I do wonder if they pay up to the transformer. I can’t remember… If I could put the transformer way back in my property and this is the case that’d be great. Still have addressing issue…

isn’t necessarily a money issue. I had the entire process of running cable from transformer to barn until county fucked me.

Interestingly enough, you can see at one point where the original pole transformer on my property was ran to the barn (abandoned poles on way to barn). I assume at one point it got knocked down and was Jerry rigged underground from house.

Can only assume it had a meter at that point…..

I wanted transformer to go to barn because then it would open up more options to tap barn breaker for nearby electrical (outdoor well etc) instead of running from house.

May look into vested rights determination. Barn and house were built in 1960..

Maybe a property merger of some sort, so you can eliminate the issue of two separate plots?

I can't imagine they'd have an issue with 2 meters on a single plot with a single address. Both would just bill to that address.

Existing poles are really a bonus.

The best scenario might be to combine two lots into one lot, so then you have your home on a single lot so the county can STFU about it. Then you can see if your utility (FPL?) would approve using the old poles to extend their supply to the barn, mount a transformer on a pole, and allow you to drop down the pole to another meter for the barn only. Then it's on you (and your electrical contractor or whatever) to mount the meter socket, riser with weatherhead and conductors up to the transformer, and then feed from the meter socket to a service in the barn (or mount a combo meter + breaker panel directly on the pole itself)

Even if you have to foot the bill for the new wire on the poles, it's probably going to be cheaper than trenching in larger conductors for 120/240 underground. At least that's my guess.

It's funny what utilities want sometimes. Access to the meter at the barn might be an issue, too. Sometimes they'll want ready access (road to meter, can't have locked gates, etc) if they're going to agree to a meter that isn't close to a public road.

I pulled this from an FPL document online.

Foler · Feb 6, 2023

Erronius said:
Maybe a property merger of some sort, so you can eliminate the issue of two separate plots?

I can't imagine they'd have an issue with 2 meters on a single plot with a single address. Both would just bill to that address.

Existing poles are really a bonus.

The best scenario might be to combine two lots into one lot, so then you have your home on a single lot so the county can STFU about it. Then you can see if your utility (FPL?) would approve using the old poles to extend their supply to the barn, mount a transformer on a pole, and allow you to drop down the pole to another meter for the barn only. Then it's on you (and your electrical contractor or whatever) to mount the meter socket, riser with weatherhead and conductors up to the transformer, and then feed from the meter socket to a service in the barn (or mount a combo meter + breaker panel directly on the pole itself)

Even if you have to foot the bill for the new wire on the poles, it's probably going to be cheaper than trenching in larger conductors for 120/240 underground. At least that's my guess.

It's funny what utilities want sometimes. Access to the meter at the barn might be an issue, too. Sometimes they'll want ready access (road to meter, can't have locked gates, etc) if they're going to agree to a meter that isn't close to a public road.

I pulled this from an FPL document online.

View attachment 457161

Yeah honesty merging it initially crossed my mind. Probably need to consult a real estate attorney on implications though. May lose access to road my other “side” of property sits on that home one doesn’t. Not a big deal but just wanna know if this is a one way door and what implications it has.

thanks for info. Meantime I found exemption for running well on property without house. So that’s good. Running electrical to chicken coop about 150 ft away from house which should be fine.

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Home Improvement

Koushirou

Log Wizard

Haus

Daidraco

Avatar of War Slayer

Dandai

<WoW Guild Officer>

Intrinsic

Person of Whiteness

Haus

Lanx

Lanx

Intrinsic

Person of Whiteness

Lanx

Daidraco

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Lanx

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals

Daidraco

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Daidraco

Avatar of War Slayer

Erronius

<WoW Guild Officer>

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.

Erronius

<WoW Guild Officer>

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals