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Maybe that should be on the hard core lane only. Add more lanes with varying levels of reinforcement.Also you should put a pressure plate so if you completely miss the target a foot pops out of the bench and kicks you in the balls.
Maybe that should be on the hard core lane only. Add more lanes with varying levels of reinforcement.Also you should put a pressure plate so if you completely miss the target a foot pops out of the bench and kicks you in the balls.
This thing can't just lay on the ground, even if we leveled it all out with a bobcat or something, it would twist and warp and sink and rot and basically just be useless, so it's gotta be up on something. I had originally though about just getting an augur and digging post holes, drop in some 6x6's and a piece of concrete for a footing and calling it good. Probably dig a hole every 4 feet, so 6 per section. That seemed easy enough. But almost everyone I talk to seems to think that I can just get some landscaping pavers and lay the frame on there - just so it's enough off the ground for water to run under it, and the bottom not to rot. Level it out either with some shovels or with extra pavers (which are pretty fucking cheap). I gotta admit, that's a helluva lot easier than setting posts all day, but I can't help but think that's halfassing this a bit too much. But then I've got people saying that frost is gonna heave it if you put footings in anyway, so now I'm not sure what to think
This is not gonna be your standard deck with a railing - more like a boardwalk. But it's gonna be rather large - the first section is 11 out to the target wire, and then 20' across it, so L shaped. The other side is gonna be 56' out to the wire, and another 16' across.
What thoughts do you guys have about it? I've never built a deck before - but I'm super excited to finally do a project that's not part of my fucking house -- and with someone else's fucking money!
have seen simple walkways made with both in muddy areas, around ponds and creeks.
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price for plastic ones appear to be stupid high now, like $100-125 each (online). while wood are from free-$25. also had packed rocks under the ties.
i am surprised no one there made a pallet path, they will last months and mostly free
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I'm not sure what thread this should go in. Could say it could go in the guns thread, home improvement, or woodworking. I'm gonna put it here, because I think it's most closely related to the project.
I am a member of a 275 member private outdoor gun range. The 10 yard and 25 yard pistol ranges both share a shooting shed, and are both basically in a "bowl" of earth. You go down to get to the shed, and the backstop and the barrier to the adjacent 50 yard range form essentially a soup bowl where water tends to collect in the spring and fall. Since it's outdoor, it's a lot of water. This means that for most of the spring and a good chunk of the fall, and any time it rains, the entire range is essentially mud. I wouldn't actually care about it, but, you've gotta go hang targets, and that's where the annoyance comes in, because if you're not wearing some pretty decent boots, you're in for a treat.
When I joined a couple years ago, I ripped a sheet of plywood in half and tossed that down as part of a walking path to the target hangers, but it was quickly swallowed by the mud, just literally vanished into the earth. I'm sure you could still find it pretty easy, but it's definitely not a walkway anymore. So, i proposed we build basically what amounts to a deck all the way down to the target line. I've gotten approval and the funding to construct the one for the 10 yard range, and based upon that, I'll probably get approval to do the 25 as well. My plan is pretty simple - I plan on using green treat 2x6s as a frame, and then green treat decking, and build 8' by 32" (so I can tri-sect a 8' piece) sections in my garage where I have all the power tools, then haul them down to the range to install them. The plan is to have this thing basically just be a boardwalk - it's only gonna be raised up off the ground high enough to be not in contact with the ground to stave off rot as much as possible. Of course, when you're a member of a 275 member range, everyone's got a fucking better idea than you have, and I'm kinda sick of it, because I'm the one doing the work here, so I don't really care what they think I should do. But, I can see the merit behind a pair of ideas here, and I'm looking for some more feedback.
This thing can't just lay on the ground, even if we leveled it all out with a bobcat or something, it would twist and warp and sink and rot and basically just be useless, so it's gotta be up on something. I had originally though about just getting an augur and digging post holes, drop in some 6x6's and a piece of concrete for a footing and calling it good. Probably dig a hole every 4 feet, so 6 per section. That seemed easy enough. But almost everyone I talk to seems to think that I can just get some landscaping pavers and lay the frame on there - just so it's enough off the ground for water to run under it, and the bottom not to rot. Level it out either with some shovels or with extra pavers (which are pretty fucking cheap). I gotta admit, that's a helluva lot easier than setting posts all day, but I can't help but think that's halfassing this a bit too much. But then I've got people saying that frost is gonna heave it if you put footings in anyway, so now I'm not sure what to think.
This is not gonna be your standard deck with a railing - more like a boardwalk. But it's gonna be rather large - the first section is 11 out to the target wire, and then 20' across it, so L shaped. The other side is gonna be 56' out to the wire, and another 16' across.
What thoughts do you guys have about it? I've never built a deck before - but I'm super excited to finally do a project that's not part of my fucking house -- and with someone else's fucking money!
All of it looks fantastic. The underlay was probably overkill, but that extra "give" will probably be good for a toddler. Once you do the quarter round or "shoe molding" at the bottom - it'll tie in really good and you wont see the gap from where you didnt put new base molding. You did great!Posted in another thread that we found out last night we're having a boy! Friends threw a really good party for us. Got to blow up some balloons and some tannerite and all our extended family was there via Zoom.
To that end I was able to spend an afternoon getting some of the flooring down in the nursery. We had a ton of issues getting the LVP in. The first order every plank was damaged so had to re-order which took two more weeks to get in. I went to pick up the new stuff and the guy at the loading dock questioned "Is that your old stuff? This new stuff doesn't look anything like what you got there." The new boxes were 7" planks @ 72" long, the old broken stuff was 5" @ 36". So tried to get in touch with the dealer and they didn't answer. Finally told the dude to throw it in the truck, I gotta get this moving b/c the wife is stressing about the nursery.
Turns out the original stuff that came in (that was damaged) was the wrong version to begin with. It was the herringbone LVP and not straight. So even if it had not been damaged I would have been screwed. Just a mess, but oh well.
Snapped a quick pic as the sun was going down. I'm actually very happy with how it went after getting the process set. I stopped at the doorway b/c didn't feel like going to get the oscillating saw and doing the undercuts and learning how to do the transition. The underlay was actually the most irritating part and using the adhesive to lay the 4 sheets down side-by-side. So I'm smoothing it as the plank goes down and will just cut the backside off. Can't feel any seams through the floor so it seems to have worked out.
Also would like to go back with an actual white around the baseboards and the new quarte round. The off white trim color doesn't look as nice as a bright pop of white does with the mint walls and the grey floors. The primed quarter round looks real good holding it against, whereas the off white reads very yellow.
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All of it looks fantastic. The underlay was probably overkill, but that extra "give" will probably be good for a toddler. Once you do the quarter round or "shoe molding" at the bottom - it'll tie in really good and you wont see the gap from where you didnt put new base molding. You did great!
2" isn't bad. What you really want to avoid is having like a 3/4" strip over there.it turns out I'm gonna have to rip it to like 2" or come up with another solution.
Not to mention you’ve got a bit of wiggle room for sloppy cuts with the quarter round hiding the edge.2" isn't bad. What you really want to avoid is having like a 3/4" strip over there.
The most difficult spot for me when laying that shit is having a piece that thin, also going into a corner that has a door on the opposing side with trim to go under. So you end up having to try to slide/wiggle/thing'a'ma'jig that fucking piece in. Also, took me too long to realize that you could put the appropriate type of glue for w/e type of planking you have on the seam between the parent board and the ~3/4 strip. But I'd say putting leveling compound down and waiting for it to dry is my most hated part of doing a reno. You have to set aside an entire day for that shit to cure and I just aint got spare time like that.2" isn't bad. What you really want to avoid is having like a 3/4" strip over there.
Glad to hear it’s not just me. I’ve done vinyl plank installation a couple times now and for me the absolute worst part (carpet staple removal being a close second) is corners with doorways. You can’t slide it in laterally because you can’t get the angle high enough to lock the plank into the one “above” it, and you can’t lock the plank in first then lay it down flat because the jamb is in the way.The most difficult spot for me when laying that shit is having a piece that thin, also going into a corner that has a door on the opposing side with trim to go under. So you end up having to try to slide/wiggle/thing'a'ma'jig that fucking piece in. Also, took me too long to realize that you could put the appropriate type of glue for w/e type of planking you have on the seam between the parent board and the ~3/4 strip. But I'd say putting leveling compound down and waiting for it to dry is my most hated part of doing a reno. You have to set aside an entire day for that shit to cure and I just aint got spare time like that.
Thats what I started doing. It just saves way more time and there will never be any significant weight on that seam to put pressure on the glue. The first time it happened to me, I took apart the trim on the door so I could get it down. It looked fantastic, but then I spent the next two hours rebalancing the fucking door, taking trim nails out and putting new ones back in and then using caulk and paint to make it look like new again.Glad to hear it’s not just me. I’ve done vinyl plank installation a couple times now and for me the absolute worst part (carpet staple removal being a close second) is corners with doorways. You can’t slide it in laterally because you can’t get the angle high enough to lock the plank into the one “above” it, and you can’t lock the plank in first then lay it down flat because the jamb is in the way.
If memory serves, I ended up shaving off the peak of the lip edge and gluing the piece in place because I couldn’t figure out how to get it to lock on both sides simultaneously.
lulz is that why my house w/ plank feels "bulbous" near the door way? hahaIf memory serves, I ended up shaving off the peak of the lip edge and gluing the piece in place because I couldn’t figure out how to get it to lock on both sides simultaneously.
Im a bit spaced at the moment I guess - what are you asking?Okay so at least y'all are ahead of what was looking to be an issue b/c that doorway the picture is taken from is a corner and the main entry way in to the room. So I'll have a corner piece + door frame. No way is the frame coming off. Was considering pre-locking two pieces together and coming in wider rather than trying to maneuver a thin strip in that small area. Also switching the direction of plank going down from far wall towards the door and starting with the door under the frame and laying towards far wall.
This is the transition that will go from the LVP to carpet in the hallway, so am doing some pre-work learning how it goes in. Doesn't immediately make sense unless it expects me to lay down another carpet strip. The edge of the carpet transition seems like it'll be aesthetically and functionally bad. But we'll see.
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Im a bit spaced at the moment I guess - what are you asking?
You'll have to research what kind of transition you want. If you decide to go with like a T molding or reducer molding strip then you'll have to get the elevation difference figured out first. If you're worried about the carpet being secure, you may have to replace the tack strip, or install one if it was continuous carpet at the door transition. The last one I did with carpet to LVP, I actually used a reducer strip because it fit the height better. But you could just splurge on a really nice brushed steel threshold strip or similar. Its all in whats offered from the brand of LVP in the same color as what you got or what you think looks good.Not sure, I haven't even looked at it in person yet lol. The one google image showing how the transition is to be installed for going from LVP to Carpet seems to be missing information on how the carpet is secured. It may be obvious once it is sitting in front of me. That's the only image that popped up in a 10 second google search.
Yeah the picture I attached is the exact one that came with the plank. Karastan 4-in-1. Will dive in to it Friday!You'll have to research what kind of transition you want. If you decide to go with like a T molding or reducer molding strip then you'll have to get the elevation difference figured out first. If you're worried about the carpet being secure, you may have to replace the tack strip, or install one if it was continuous carpet at the door transition. The last one I did with carpet to LVP, I actually used a reducer strip because it fit the height better. But you could just splurge on a really nice brushed steel threshold strip or similar. Its all in whats offered from the brand of LVP in the same color as what you got or what you think looks good.
If you google it, you'll see that there are like 15 different ways to "skin this cat" and 90% of them are fucking retarded. Just an FYI.