Home Improvement

Oldbased

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Heylel,

I typed up a long post but fuck that. Suffice to say that while $900 does sound like a lot, depending on what your local labor costs are the GC could just be insulating himself from getting screwed on electrical if they take more than a day for wiring. And while a lot of people might say that it shouldn't take more than a day to rewire that basement, I can tell you (as an electrician) that when you try to work with intact ceiling and wall drywall that things can go sideways with a quickness. Too many times I've shown up at a house only to have a GC tell me that 1.) no drywall is coming down, or to be cut out because they don't want to incur additional patching costs, and 2.) then proceed to give me a list of items to be added that are nigh impossible to add w/o cutting or smashing the everliving shit out of a lot of drywall.

I can't really say much further because there are simply too many unknowns, from # of lights, what the GC has in mind for the electricians to do specifically (multiple added 3 ways, fished into a finished basement?). Plugs are the easiest to eliminate, the lighting is where the nightmare could be.

As an aside, I always liked adding track lighting in finished basements because long tracks can get around having to fish additional switch legs into remote joist pockets.

#themoreyouknow
No fuck that. You and plumbers alike. I called one the other day to repair a frost/freeze faucet that had busted for a homeowner and that son of a bitch told me $375. I went to home depot, bought a sharkbite and a new faucet and fixed it in 15 minutes with $30 in parts, better than new.

Job I posted earlier where I did all that extra trim, he had a 3 way switch that hadn't worked right in 10 years. Called a Electrician who told him on the phone minimal $200 call. I replaced a switch and fixed it in 3 minutes. The traveler was stuck or something in the upstairs switch. $4 damn dollars.

Both of those professions piss me off. I had a damn plumber charge $600 2 years ago to come in and move the hot/cold of a kitchen I had gutted , took them 2 hours. I had to pay it due to inspection.
So many stories like that, where I see either pull in a job and make more in 15 minutes of pussy work than I do for 3 days of busting ass.

Which is why I am considering changing professions.
 

Oldbased

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Heylel- State farm is the best and worst of it. I've seen homeowners cry dealing with them. They really dislike attorney's however...
Keep fighting them.

Julian- Yes the same company I bought that mold from sells those as well. This guy wanted a basic shower cheap as possible, but I do work for him every year and I don't do cheap quality so I threw that in for free.
I'm definitely going with the premade molds from now on. It just saves so much time and the fact it turns out 100% flush with the substrate is awesome for tiling.
 

Oldbased

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how do you stop walls from rattling/vibrating due to ac running?
Uhhh. Are you sure it is the walls( drywall or plaster )?
I think I know what you are talking about. I've been in houses where there is a vibration from the unit outside when the fan is running. Likewise the inside unit, which is located either in the crawlspace, a closet or attic runs the squirrel fan.
First step would be to determine which unit , the exterior compressor and fan or the internal blower unit is causing the vibration. From there it could be as simple and tightening down some stuff, or bracing it better to minimize vibration.
If the vibration is very severe, you could have bearings going bad. Either fan is a DIY if you have any basic knowledge whatsoever of replacing motors. You shouldn't have to get involved in the duct work, Freon lines or anything like that.

It would make the most sense to address the cause rather than the symptom as it will probably lead to another issue down the line anyways. Homes are a lot like cars, when you hear noises, vibrations , see cracks or it leaks, it is telling you something
smile.png
 

Erronius

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No fuck that. You and plumbers alike. I called one the other day to repair a frost/freeze faucet that had busted for a homeowner and that son of a bitch told me $375. I went to home depot, bought a sharkbite and a new faucet and fixed it in 15 minutes with $30 in parts, better than new.

Job I posted earlier where I did all that extra trim, he had a 3 way switch that hadn't worked right in 10 years. Called a Electrician who told him on the phone minimal $200 call. I replaced a switch and fixed it in 3 minutes. The traveler was stuck or something in the upstairs switch. $4 damn dollars.

Both of those professions piss me off. I had a damn plumber charge $600 2 years ago to come in and move the hot/cold of a kitchen I had gutted , took them 2 hours. I had to pay it due to inspection.
So many stories like that, where I see either pull in a job and make more in 15 minutes of pussy work than I do for 3 days of busting ass.

Which is why I am considering changing professions.
What the fuck is your problem? You got ripped off a few times so now entire trades overcharge? Holy fucking shit.

If you want to set $4 as your baseline comparison, that's fine I guess, but that's so bizarrely abnormal that I'm nearly speechless. I mean, I fixed a flat tire for a few dollars once after being told it would cost me 10 times as much to take it in to get fixed, but I didn't embark on a"MECHANICS ARE ALL SCAM ARTISTS WARBLEGARBLE!"tirade over it either.

Not to mention that swapping out a 3 way switch or fixing a faucet is a far cry from rewiring a basement when (at least as it sounds to me) the GC isn't planning on taking much if any drywall down. Because having to rewire a finished basement and fish numerous wires is totally comparable to spending $4 on a 3-way switch, right? Would you just leave him with 10 additional can lights on a single pole switch and make him walk clear across the basement to turn on the lights if he comes through an opposing door? (coughcodecough) Are you assuming (!) that the removal of the dividing wall will give someone enough clearance to pull additional switch legs into adjoining joist pockets? What if (hypothetically speaking) the home run for everything was pulled to the 2-gang box that is IN the dividing wall (or for that matter one of those receptacles)? As I alluded to before, how easy do you think it will be to fish a 3-wire between two single gangs boxes with all of the drywall up? I could go on...

There's so many potential issues that could come up that could make things infinitely more difficult that I have to be honest and wonder exactly how much electrical experience you have. Sure, that entire job could go easy and yes it could be done quickly. But it could also have a lot of issues and end up taking much longer than it would otherwise. It's easy for you to say that it's gravy work if all you have experience with in regards to electrical is the easy gravy work.

Now if the GC is going to line it all out so that it's easy for the electrician(s) to pull wire (not likely but possible) then sure, it won't take long at all. But you know how man GCs do that? I'll let you take a wild guess.
 

Big Phoenix

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I assume is the dry wall due to the fact that even the slightest amount of pressure on the wall makes it stop.

Renting the place and told the landlord about it today and he just played it off by saying houses make noise and stuff. Pretty jimmy rustling because the ac is.old as shit and wasn't even working due to a refrigerant leak when we moved in.

Also how would that impact electricity usage? Bill last month ess $275, for a 1100sqft two story condo. Keeping the house at 80 and really watching other usage and it was still 275.
 

Lejina

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Hell if a little pressure makes it stop, find a spot where you can stop the noise with a finger and there's something solid behind it and put a nail in.
 

Draegan_sl

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I assume is the dry wall due to the fact that even the slightest amount of pressure on the wall makes it stop.

Renting the place and told the landlord about it today and he just played it off by saying houses make noise and stuff. Pretty jimmy rustling because the ac is.old as shit and wasn't even working due to a refrigerant leak when we moved in.

Also how would that impact electricity usage? Bill last month ess $275, for a 1100sqft two story condo. Keeping the house at 80 and really watching other usage and it was still 275.
Sounds like your duct work isn't secured properly and is just banging around. AC costs are pretty high if you're constantly running it full blast. However your biggest power usage will be coming from your Fridge, PC, TV and the biggest user is your DVR (if you have one).
 

Heylel

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Heylel- State farm is the best and worst of it. I've seen homeowners cry dealing with them. They really dislike attorney's however...
Keep fighting them.
Not sure a legal threat would carry much weight given the coverage limits. We're talking about a matter of a couple thousand bucks, which is a ton to me right now but wouldn't even pay attorney fees and is barely a rounding error to State Farm.

All I want is my coverage cap, and if possible my items paid out. My actual policy DOES pay but items lost, but they tell me that the endorsement for sewer supersedes that rather than adding to it. Thus, they'll only pay for something like a washing machine if it is damaged. Sounds like total bullshit to me, but I dunno.

I'm just going to keep calling and pestering until they finally do something for me. I can't afford to let that money slip away after spending almost 2 grand fixing the sewer line myself.
 

Joeboo

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Are you positive that you aren't in a cash value/replacement cost situation with the repair where they give you a partial payment up front, and then the rest of the damage payment after the work has actually been completed? That's pretty common on a lot of homeowners claims, on both personal property and the actual dwelling/structure. I can't think of too many claims where any company would just give you a huge lump sum of 100% of the damages up front, unless it's a very small claim(like under $1000). They're almost always paid out in two steps, with the full amount not being paid until the work/repair is completed.
 

Heylel

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Well, the total estimate their cleaner submitted was for $14k. My limit is 10k, and they're expecting me to put 1000 in as deductible money. Even after that, there's a 3000 gap in coverage. I am not sure I can even afford to get the work started on $4300 after paying the cleanup bill. I need to be absolutely certain the remainder is coming so I can finish the repairs.

There's basically no reason I shouldn't be hitting my coverage cap. This should have been incredibly simple. Cut me a check for 10k, I pay the cleaning bill and start rebuilding. It couldn't get any simpler, and one adjuster seems to agree whereas my assigned one is being a pain in the ass.
 

Joeboo

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That sounds very much like a 2-part payment. Coverage cap is $10K, you have a $1000 deductible, so the most you can get is $9000. You basically just got half up front, I'd be inquiring into the certainty of the 2nd half at this point.
 

Oldbased

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What the fuck is your problem? You got ripped off a few times so now entire trades overcharge? Holy fucking shit.

If you want to set $4 as your baseline comparison, that's fine I guess, but that's so bizarrely abnormal that I'm nearly speechless. I mean, I fixed a flat tire for a few dollars once after being told it would cost me 10 times as much to take it in to get fixed, but I didn't embark on a"MECHANICS ARE ALL SCAM ARTISTS WARBLEGARBLE!"tirade over it either.

Not to mention that swapping out a 3 way switch or fixing a faucet is a far cry from rewiring a basement when (at least as it sounds to me) the GC isn't planning on taking much if any drywall down. Because having to rewire a finished basement and fish numerous wires is totally comparable to spending $4 on a 3-way switch, right? Would you just leave him with 10 additional can lights on a single pole switch and make him walk clear across the basement to turn on the lights if he comes through an opposing door? (coughcodecough) Are you assuming (!) that the removal of the dividing wall will give someone enough clearance to pull additional switch legs into adjoining joist pockets? What if (hypothetically speaking) the home run for everything was pulled to the 2-gang box that is IN the dividing wall (or for that matter one of those receptacles)? As I alluded to before, how easy do you think it will be to fish a 3-wire between two single gangs boxes with all of the drywall up? I could go on...

There's so many potential issues that could come up that could make things infinitely more difficult that I have to be honest and wonder exactly how much electrical experience you have. Sure, that entire job could go easy and yes it could be done quickly. But it could also have a lot of issues and end up taking much longer than it would otherwise. It's easy for you to say that it's gravy work if all you have experience with in regards to electrical is the easy gravy work.

Now if the GC is going to line it all out so that it's easy for the electrician(s) to pull wire (not likely but possible) then sure, it won't take long at all. But you know how man GCs do that? I'll let you take a wild guess.
My problem is I see these 2 trades constantly rip off homeowners. Sure you run into issues, but I bid my best guess on issues with conditions. A homeowner would rather pay more if a legit issue came up than pay a guy a ton of money to walk in and work 3 hours and leave and say, that was easier than I planned.

3 ways to 2 single gains and to a light? He already has demo going on at the switch. So you only need 3way to the other switch and existing to light assuming his power is at that switch. Chaining can lights? he already has a fuck ton of drywall work going on in that basement including having that ceiling patched in spots already. Do you really think adding a couple RL's to a existing switch constitutes 900 damn dollars in labor? Now in the past one would say that many RL's is going to need to be on a new circuit and 900 may be justified. With the LED that is no longer the case.

Another example, last year homeowner called me said HVAC guy found a ton of water under house, appeared to come from sink drain. I was out of town so she called a plumber. She is still pissed to this day about the guy. He found galvanized drain pipe had rusted out, he cut it out and put in a rubber adapter between the 2 sections. Charged her $530 and was gone in less than 2 hours. I mean really.

I have wired many homes and been dealing with electricians all my life. I know how it works. Thus why I am mad at those 2 professions( and not you ). I understand what you are saying and I know you have to back up your work and inspectors are anal about it more so than other trades, but really, can you defend them over charging a asston just in case something goes bad wrong vrs saying most of the times I've done this over the past x years it took x long and will cost x much.
 

Heylel

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I was told I could get the full 10k because the repairs far exceeded my coverage. The deductible functionally no longer applies, since I am expected to cover more out of pocket than the deductible anyway. Then the adjuster calls back with this random $7850 number with no explanation, from which I'm expected to pay nearly half in cleaning fees.
 

Big Phoenix

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Sounds like your duct work isn't secured properly and is just banging around. AC costs are pretty high if you're constantly running it full blast. However your biggest power usage will be coming from your Fridge, PC, TV and the biggest user is your DVR (if you have one).
the ac set to around 79 to 80 so it's far from running full blast. Another problem is the thermostat is a piece of shit. It will say the temperature is 84 when is actually 79.
 

Heylel

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I have wired many homes and been dealing with electricians all my life. I know how it works. Thus why I am mad at those 2 professions( and not you ). I understand what you are saying and I know you have to back up your work and inspectors are anal about it more so than other trades, but really, can you defend them over charging a asston just in case something goes bad wrong vrs saying most of the times I've done this over the past x years it took x long and will cost x much.
It really has much more to do with people simply having no idea how much something should cost, and construction in general being a profession where it is in the interest of the contractor to obfuscate costs as much as possible. That's why everyone tries to call someone they either know personally, or is a friend of a friend. They expect to be treated fairly whereas with a stranger they may not be.

The plumber I called to fix my root issue in the yard charged me $1800 for the work, whereas I have a coworker who had the same work done and was charged $7000. Another friend of mine was quoted $4300 for an identical problem he's yet to fix because it cost so damn much. For what they did, I feel $1800 was fair. They had to bring a bobcat and dig my line up, replace about 2' at the connector to the street with a clean out, seal it with a boot and rebury it. Then they threw in a second clean out at the foundation, which required cutting out about a 1'x2' section of driveway, replacing the line and then patching the concrete. For that amount of work, I am very satisfied with the price.

I was lucky. They managed to save the trees and cause a bare minimum of yard damage because of where the clog was located. Other people might pay a lot more to have more line dug up, or because of a larger tree that needs to be totally removed. The key to making a wide range of prices sound fair is to carefully itemize and explain material and labor costs for all of the work. I am rapidly learning how rarely contractors actually offer that information up front.

Even the mitigation crew mailed me a one-line bill with a charge of $3500. I had to call and request an itemized bill just to see what I was being charged for, and ended up finding a good $600 in charges that were questionable.
 

Joeboo

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I was told I could get the full 10k because the repairs far exceeded my coverage. The deductible functionally no longer applies, since I am expected to cover more out of pocket than the deductible anyway. Then the adjuster calls back with this random $7850 number with no explanation, from which I'm expected to pay nearly half in cleaning fees.
I've never heard of an insurance company doing that with a deductible(and I work for one). It's always the deductible off the top of whatever they are ultimately paying, not what the damages are(if they are more). You might want to ask them for a clarification on that, because it would be quite a rare exception if they are actually doing that.

Although I guess it's also possible that the endorsement itself for the 10K coverage had no deductible, I could see that. When we schedule specific pieces of personal property(expensive jewelry, art, antiques, etc) you can choose a seperate(down to zero)deductible that is different than your overall homeowners deductible.
 

Heylel

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I've never heard of an insurance company doing that with a deductible(and I work for one). It's always the deductible off the top of whatever they are ultimately paying, not what the damages are(if they are more). You might want to ask them for a clarification on that, because it would be quite a rare exception if they are actually doing that.
I finally got in touch with someone just now (called from a different # and they picked up right away, go figure). They're supposed to have everything resolved and call me by lunch, but I have no idea what that resolution will mean.

The way my agent explained it was that the deductible was the minimum expectation of my out of pocket contribution. Since that is likely to be more than $11,000 (my coverage limit plus my deductible), the deductible functionally doesn't exist.
 

Erronius

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My problem is I see these 2 trades constantly rip off homeowners. Sure you run into issues, but I bid my best guess on issues with conditions. A homeowner would rather pay more if a legit issue came up than pay a guy a ton of money to walk in and work 3 hours and leave and say, that was easier than I planned.
A homeowner might but most are going to feel like you're trying to screw them by asking for more later. Mind you that most homeowners don't even know what romex is, so GL trying to communicate to them why a bid is no longer valid. Also bear in mind that if he goes through a GC here then the electricians aren't going to be talking to the homeowner (shouldn't be, at any rate) about their costs and how much more time/$ a job is going to take. But then if we keep debating this we'll just end up in an endless loop of fingerpointing.

3 ways to 2 single gains and to a light? He already has demo going on at the switch.
What demo? Which switch? All I saw talked about was the dividing wall, I didn't see anything else about demo except some drywall near the floor. Also wtf is a "single gain"?

So you only need 3way to the other switch and existing to light assuming his power is at that switch.
Assuming...remember what I was saying earlier about unforeseen bullshit and electricians being expected to satisfy GC guarantees that are made w/o really knowing WTF is going on because the GC isn't an electrician?

Chaining can lights? he already has a fuck ton of drywall work going on in that basement including having that ceiling patched in spots already.
Unless the GC specifically states that he's ok with the electricians chopping into drywall, then it's better to assume that he isn't and patching the ceiling means fuck all for purposes of access unless the electricians are given the green light to get out the jabsaws/razor knives/sawzalls. I mean you say that you've wired houses but as someone who has done a fuckton of remodels I can tell you that it isn't uncommon to have GCs tell you to figure out how to work around what is currently cut out because they want to hope that the electricians can work some magic so they don't have to go talk to the drywallers about having to fix what the electricians just tore out.

Do you really think adding a couple RL's to a existing switch constitutes 900 damn dollars in labor? Now in the past one would say that many RL's is going to need to be on a new circuit and 900 may be justified. With the LED that is no longer the case.
I just told you a number of reasons why people bid high to cover their ass but you don't seem to want to listen. Fine, whatever.

Another example, last year homeowner called me said HVAC guy found a ton of water under house, appeared to come from sink drain. I was out of town so she called a plumber. She is still pissed to this day about the guy. He found galvanized drain pipe had rusted out, he cut it out and put in a rubber adapter between the 2 sections. Charged her $530 and was gone in less than 2 hours. I mean really.
Bro, you mean to tell me that there are people in this world that scam and cheat? Please, tell me more.

We could throw anecdotes at each other all day and the only thing it would confirm is that there are those kinds of people in every trade, everywhere. I could throw out horror stories for every trade in existence. I could take some pics of some woodworking my mother had done that was a ripoff and done poorly and that they charged far too much for (which pissed me off because she didn't ask me if I knew anyone and I know people who would have treated her fairly). IIRC she still has stain splattered on an interior wall because they replaced a door that a dog had scratched so they put the replacement door on the hinges AND STAINED IT RIGHT THERE. And then charged her a fuckton for it all and they didn't do anything about the stain, they just left it and told her to talk to a painter. So now because I've run into so many woodworkers who overcharge for easy shit that someone could do myself, I'm fully of the mind that all woodworkers rip off homeworkers...wait, no I don't!

I mean, weren't you even telling a story about how you were some sort of a hero by going out of your way to give a homeowner a bunch of extra trim and shit? Well I hate to tell you this but a lot of guys in the same situation would have just bought the cheapest shit they could and screwed that homeowner over without a second thought. THEY WOULD HAVE BID AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE AND DUPED THAT GUY JUST LIKE YOU THINK THAT ALL PLUMBERS AND ELECTRICIANS DO. It isn't trade specific.

I honestly wonder if you only fixate on plumbers and electricians because you don't need to shell out money for anything else as often because you can cover those bases yourself. In that case I could see why you might think that if you're forced to pay them because of licensure while you can lowball everything else. Because if you didn't then maybe you'd see that this isn't unique to plumbers/electricians.

I have wired many homes and been dealing with electricians all my life. I know how it works. Thus why I am mad at those 2 professions( and not you ). I understand what you are saying and I know you have to back up your work and inspectors are anal about it more so than other trades, but really, can you defend them over charging a asston just in case something goes bad wrong vrs saying most of the times I've done this over the past x years it took x long and will cost x much.
You're basing your opinion on your own skewed view, which is from that of an outsider who uses the extreme best-case scenario as a basis for what you think a trade should charge while ignoring the common issues inherent in bidding work. And sure, a bid isn't a contract but you should know with your background that people still try to hold to bids if they're able and lowballing bids and then having to come back later, hat in hand, to beg for more money because something went wrong is something people try to avoid. And sure, you can do it for much cheaper I'm sure...but the entire point of requiring licensing/bonding/insuring is because of issues with non-electricians actually doing it for cheaper and then having houses burn down or homeowners being left in the lurch when the faucet you replaced for $10 bursts and the homeowner is left with a $50k cleanup bill.

And mind you that I'm not even trying to pin down a literal "good cost" because I have no idea what his local labor is priced at. I even said exactly this earlier, and I even pointed out that GCs like to pad bids...but that doesn't mean it's necessarily all profit. Yet you still went on some anti-electrician/plumber derail anyways. I mean I get it, electricians and plumbers are all overcharging assholes. Thanks for setting us straight bro!
 

Oldbased

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You are welcome. I have been doing this 25 years and worked for a Master Electrician for 3 of it. I'm happy to set you straight anytime.
Yes most are over charging assholes. It has never burned me because I get bids and I always have the homeowners pay them directly. I avoid high charge bonding that way.

The fact you take so much offense to it, tells me you may be one of those assholes. I don't know. I don't know you. I do know what the fuck I am talking about when I say virtually every plumber I've seen and most electrical contractors I see rape people. It isn't about cheap prices and labor, it is about them charging 5x what it actually cost them to fix it. You mean to tell me if someone called you and said I got a 3way switch that used to work and now doesn't but the light still comes on in certain configurations that you wouldn't suspect a faulty switch off the bat when they say no wiring was tampered with? I mean ya, we've all seen the asshole raccoon who ate the damn wire, but come on.

In 25 years I've never once had a liability claim but everyone ( or should, and for everyone else make damn sure anyone in your house is insured ) has it. I've had jobs where others had to file a claim though. That is why we all carry insurance.

Maybe we both have it wrong. Maybe you are defensive because you don't screw homeowners and you never see what the other companies are ripping people off for. I never see what other contractors try to get on jobs, but I know I get almost every job I bid.
I have not advertised 1 ad or put up 1 sign in 7 years. I get that much word of mouth. From what I see though plumbers and EC's are rapist.
There is 11 plumbers in this town, only 1 know of who is fair. There is a new one I don't know about though.
There is 9 electricians in this town only 1 I trust and is fair, another is ok in a pinch.

Hell look at Heylel's post above for a example of this shit. $1800 to $8000 bids for the same work.


For anyone else, if you think this discussion is bad, try going to a jobsite with a GC and Subs on it at the same time. Free entertainment.