Fyff
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Miniature Painting
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Aazrael
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Extended the computer desk to have a work space and started building the Jas 39 Gripen before I tackle the F-14. Mostly just painted the cockpit and glued together the aircraft.
Hopefully the airbrush arrives monday so I can start practicing with that. I don't see me brush painting large surfaces due to how much time it takes so I feel it was a good investment to make it fun instead of a chore.
Size comparison 1/48 to 1/144 in the picture.
Also, you guys got any good setups for storing paint and brushes?
Hopefully the airbrush arrives monday so I can start practicing with that. I don't see me brush painting large surfaces due to how much time it takes so I feel it was a good investment to make it fun instead of a chore.
Size comparison 1/48 to 1/144 in the picture.
Also, you guys got any good setups for storing paint and brushes?
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Hateyou
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One of these two options is great for storing the paint. All depends on your room setup. There are other sizes and version of these two if you just search “nail polish rack.”
There are of course some amazing custom laser cut custom desk options with paint section drawers and such that are really pricey. If you’re interested in those I can dig them up later, forget the names.
hblife Clear Nail Polish Organizer 5 Tier Acrylic Display Rack Holds Up to 60 Bottles Amazon product ASIN B08DFHNFQX
NIUBEE 6 Pack Nail Polish Rack Wall Mounted Shelf with Removable Anti-slip End Inserts, Clear Acrylic Nail Polish Organizer Display 90 Bottles Amazon product ASIN B07TXD5RYC
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Hateyou
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Here’s some tote thing I found that’s pretty nice for storing stuff. I don’t remember where I got it, Walmart maybe. Any kind of short tote you can find would work. The main reason I got it was to raise my paint surface a bit on my desk so I’m not hunched over so much. I suggest everyone do the same if they can so your back and neck aren’t under as much strain.
The brush case there, if you search for brush sets you’ll find various styles that even come with cheap brushes. They’re cheap as hell. I mostly just use a coffee cup though because it’s easy access. I’ve designed and 3D printed a few things that I use while I’m actually painting. If you have or know anyone with a 3D printer I will send you the file if you want it. Or could even design something for you if you have an idea of what you want and measurements. This one is storage and “don’t roll away brush” and “dont fucking tip over wash bottle” all in one.
The brush case there, if you search for brush sets you’ll find various styles that even come with cheap brushes. They’re cheap as hell. I mostly just use a coffee cup though because it’s easy access. I’ve designed and 3D printed a few things that I use while I’m actually painting. If you have or know anyone with a 3D printer I will send you the file if you want it. Or could even design something for you if you have an idea of what you want and measurements. This one is storage and “don’t roll away brush” and “dont fucking tip over wash bottle” all in one.
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Hateyou
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That would be pretty cool.
There’s some models of various things out there that are easy to grab but no character models. The epics are about the only things on there i think people here would be interested in.
Search Thingiverse - Thingiverse
Search and download free 3D printable objects for your projects, from prototypes to home improvements.
www.thingiverse.com
I have come across some stuff on Reddit where people talk about using software to pull models out of games and someone did it with EQ but it looks like it was years ago and random, not readily available.
If you can track down the stl files, I wouldn’t mind trying to print these for you. I don’t have a resin printer but FDM stuff can still look pretty nice.
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DirkDonkeyroot
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Wonder how difficult it would be to take the model files in a typical eq install and turn them into stl. I know there's editors and stuff in the emu community but no idea how they work.
DirkDonkeyroot
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Hateyou
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The person from that paladin thread said it was software called 3D Ripper Dx then put the model into blender to clean it up.
It’s free if someone wants to give it a shot.
It’s free if someone wants to give it a shot.
Aazrael
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Started the F-14 because the Jas 39 Gripen is at the clear coat stage and I think I will do that with the airbrush.
Assembled the F-14 in preparation for painting and wtf is with Freedom aircrafts, they are freaking huge. Both planes 1/48 scale.
Assembled the F-14 in preparation for painting and wtf is with Freedom aircrafts, they are freaking huge. Both planes 1/48 scale.
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Gankak
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Started the F-14 because the Jas 39 Gripen is at the clear coat stage and I think I will do that with the airbrush.
Assembled the F-14 in preparation for painting and wtf is with Freedom aircrafts, they are freaking huge. Both planes 1/48 scale.
View attachment 316270
You should compare WWII fighters with fighters today... its insane
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Aazrael
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Do you use enamel washes for figure painting,
I tried some on the first tiny model I brush painted and the enamel wash ate through the acryllic colors and removed them when I tried cleaning it off.
I had no primer or clear coat though on it so maybe that is what messed it up, I see most use a gloss clear coat to make it flow and easy to remove excess.
The airbrush will make it easier I'm sure to get good paint layers and clear coats to protect from the enamel wash/panel line.
I tried some on the first tiny model I brush painted and the enamel wash ate through the acryllic colors and removed them when I tried cleaning it off.
I had no primer or clear coat though on it so maybe that is what messed it up, I see most use a gloss clear coat to make it flow and easy to remove excess.
The airbrush will make it easier I'm sure to get good paint layers and clear coats to protect from the enamel wash/panel line.
DirkDonkeyroot
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We don't use enamel washes, most of our washes are basically medium, acrylic ink and flow improver with water. I think the guys that don't make their own use citadel and vallejo mostly.
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Gankak
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If you are going to use an enamel wash over acrylic paint you want a clear coat first, gloss or semi gloss.
When building military models the general consensus is after paint you clear gloss the model. The reason for gloss is that it will smooth out the flat or matte paint you used to paint the model and make it so the decals don't whiten once put on the model. So after the gloss clear cures you apply decals, then you apply washes. Then when you are happy with the weathering effects you apply a final flat gloss. I don't remember if you want a 2nd clear after the decals to protect them from the washes, I think you do but I am not 100%.
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Aazrael
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How long do you usally wait for the clear coats to cure before doing work on them?
Gankak
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The longer the better... I would say min an hour but its probably better to wait 24 hours.
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Aazrael
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Got the Airbrush and fired it up today. Went pretty well at the start. Tried some blue colors then some yellow and it went fine. Got some spidering so dropped the PSI some. I'm using Ammo of Mig colors that should be ready go without thinning.
Cleaned the Airbrush reall well and decided to load up the only white I have, White (Satin) and paint a few F-14 details. Well it did not go well, the color started to set and clogged up the whole thing. Could hardly get it clean with the cleaner fluid. Not sure why that colors fucked up, I know it behaved differently with the brush also. Dont think I will ever use that again.
Got one question, when I have color in the bowl and press the Air it spits out a few "bigger" drops before right away, what is causing that? Press air and it throws a few tiny drops before it stops, when I feed the color it goes on smooth.
Cleaned the Airbrush reall well and decided to load up the only white I have, White (Satin) and paint a few F-14 details. Well it did not go well, the color started to set and clogged up the whole thing. Could hardly get it clean with the cleaner fluid. Not sure why that colors fucked up, I know it behaved differently with the brush also. Dont think I will ever use that again.
Got one question, when I have color in the bowl and press the Air it spits out a few "bigger" drops before right away, what is causing that? Press air and it throws a few tiny drops before it stops, when I feed the color it goes on smooth.
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Dashel
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Yeah for spitting a couple of things, a lot of people recommend keeping the air flowing a bit after the paint stops. So push down for air, pull back for paint, reset to forward but still pushing down for air to get everything out... then release. Stops the spit in the beginning.
Other thing is possibly dried paint on the tip. for that I shoot a bit of flow improver through before anything else to coat the needle and help prevent paint drying on it.
Other thing is possibly dried paint on the tip. for that I shoot a bit of flow improver through before anything else to coat the needle and help prevent paint drying on it.
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Aazrael
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Many thanks. The tip was clean so I guess I need to get in the habit to stop with air like you said. Was just curious if I messed something up when I cleaned it. They are really tiny drops, and not many.
Gankak
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White is a bitch to paint period. Doesn't matter with brush or airbrush or whatever. Also different paint lines due to chemistry I don't understand their whites all react differently.
There's a saying in the mini world that has become a meme "2 thin coats". For white... its probably 4 to 6 if you want no streaks/spots opaque color. Its more about finding the right white for you that works with how you paint/thin your paints etc
There's a saying in the mini world that has become a meme "2 thin coats". For white... its probably 4 to 6 if you want no streaks/spots opaque color. Its more about finding the right white for you that works with how you paint/thin your paints etc
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Aazrael
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I ordered a matt white as well and will see if it behaves differently, the semi gloss white was really wierd. Could hardly make it work with brush. But yea it took many coats to get it white before it all clogged up.