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I've finally seen Only God ForGives and I loved it for the most part. Cinematography, visuals, production, soundtracks, I think it was pretty good. I also totally understand most of early (Cannes festival) critics saying it's the worst film ever made. Only God Forgives is a film you either get or not : it's about what you get, not what you see. If you get why Chang "is" God, if you get Julian's visions and why we see his hands a lot, if you get how the colors codes matter (white / black shirts, red / yellow backgrounds, etc) the film is just awesome, in my opinion. It's not at all about being smart or not, once you figured who Chang is and what is his purpose it's pretty straightforward from there.
The only scene I didn't get though was when Julian lost his shit with the two guys and jaw-pull one of them : the scene feels unfinished and I don't really get what it was about. Otherwise, I've really loved the movie, and I also agree with some critics, it's definitely not a film for everyone, I'd say it's like some David Lynch movies, you either love them or hate them to the bone.