Piecing together a speaker system

Trim level = db level of the channel (channels are L/R/C/surrounds/sub)

0 is the default voltage that the manufacturer placed for that channel. You should be able to adjust this in +/- 0.5 increments, also most cheaper receiver should have a range of -10 to +10 for this setting. The problem lies in every speaker has its own rated sensitivity. If you look at the rated sensitivity of speaker it should read as follows
(# dB for 1 W @ 1 m). This means that the dB level of the speaker was measured 1 meter away with 1 watt being used. Most speakers are 80ish-90ish dB for 1 w @ 1M. Since the the receivers manufacturer has no ability to know what speakers you are using they assign an arbitrary value leaving the consumer to adjust this setting.

The Radio Shack meter will allow you to set each channel for appropriate loudness so each channel is projecting the same amount of energy to the listener. So once you have a Radio Shack meter you set it for "Slow", "C" weight sit down at your listening spot, point the microphone 90 degrees up (toward the ceiling) and hold it close to your face. Now adjust the Level Calibration "Trim" of each channel and the subwoofer in the receivers menu until the meter reads 75dB for each of them. Now that every speaker is set to run at the same volume your games and movies will sound more coherent. Now don't be alarmed if every channel needs a different setting in the receiver to read 75dB on the meter. This is due to wall boundaries and reflection reinforcing various frequencies.

As for distance, measuring each speaker from the listening position with a tape measure should be good enough for this situation.

Quick order of operations
1. Place speakers and sub
2. Measure distance from listening position
3. Set subwoofer crossover
4. Set channel level

I've always been confused about speaker distance measuring. Do you, say, measure to the "optimum" central point of your couch, or to the edges? If it's the former, how does the sound quality change for anyone that's not sitting in that spot?

Lenas_sl said:

I've always been confused about speaker distance measuring. Do you, say, measure to the "optimum" central point of your couch, or to the edges? If it's the former, how does the sound quality change for anyone that's not sitting in that spot?

Click to expand...

The quick/easy answer:
Distance setting on a receiver is the distance in feet from a single spot (preferably the main listening spot i.e. center of the couch)

The long answer:
Distance is really a delay in the signal chain that the receiver will apply to each channel in order for the sound to arrive to the listening position at the same time. This means the sound will leave the speakers at different times but arrive at the listening position at the same time. It is measured in milliseconds and then converted into feet or centimeters. If your receiver is not capable of room correction (MCACC, YPAO, Audyssey, ARC, TRINNOV, DIRAC) then physically measuring the distance to the speaker from the main (central) listening position is all you can do. If your receiver/pre has the ability for room correction it will have a manufactured microphone shipped with it. The microphone has its own input in the front of the receiver and is able to take room measurements. How the receiver measures distance is by playing a number of "chirps". As the receiver sends the "chirp" signal to the speakers it starts to measure the time it takes until the microphone hears it. A safe way to round is 1 ft distance = 1 millisecond of delay added to the signal path.
A distance setting of 0 ft should have no delay applied to that channel but a distance of 7 feet should have 7 milliseconds of delay added to that channel.

This may seem pointless but the functions of "time domain" is as important as frequency response. Once you correct the "time domain" you will greatly smooth out the frequency response. Stereo imaging is very dependent on both the L/R speakers sound arriving to the listener at the same time. In a perfect room where all the speakers are set perfectly far apart this will not be a problem. In reality most home theaters are relegated to the living room and cannot be ideally or symmetrically placed. Also the perception of bass is very dependent upon the sound from the sub arriving with the front stage. If they do not arrive at the same time or phase then bass becomes muddy,smeared, and weak.

As for different listening positions the sound is never perfect at each seat and by improving "time domain" you will smooth our the frequency response for all listeners.
I hope this helps.

Thanks Forin, that's what I figured.

Hey Sean,
Here are the bookshelf versions of those speakers, they have been very well received and are smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS2.../dp/B008NCD2LG

I would also look at the Infinity P 163 I have heard those before and they weren't bad for the price.

Did you get speakers yet Sean? What is your budget?

Strongly suggest going with the best 2.1 setup you can afford at first, then filling in the rest. Good speakers will last you a lifetime, unlike the electronics.

Tuco_sl said:

Talking shit about people with disabilities is one thing, but if a man is trying to create a community thread on speaker systems don't parachute in with some derailing argumentative bullshit.

Click to expand...

You're such a weak asshole. It's not "derailing argumentative bullshit", it's a legitimate point about maybe having enough goddamn decorum to not brag about buying expensive audio equipment with all of our money.

Feel free to infract me like the white knighting cocksucker you've turned into.

HOLY SHIT THAT'S EXPENSIVE AUDIO EQUIPMENT. Why are so many people so concerned with what Sean does in his life? That bored? Make you feel better to put people down?

Yah that should work fine Sean, grats on getting them. I hope I steered you in the right direction!

I would also suggest going all out on the sub. Look at the Internet direct/boutique companies that specialize in HT subs. A good sub that digs deep really changes the movie/game experience. A lot of the sounds you can't even hear, but feel in your chest. Good times!!!

I have a 10" SVS that's about 6 years old. Weighs 75lbs and sounds amazing. If I were buying today I would get whatever I could afford from HSU. Have heard great things.

http://www.hsuresearch.com

The VTF-1 would be amazing for any small/mid size room. Looking at the website the ST2 on sale for 300 would absolutely blow away anything you find at a big box store.

They have a 2.1 package with the STF 2 for 600.00, I have not personally heard their bookshelf speakers but I have heard great things. I wouldn't have a problem buying them, their subs are just amazing so I'm sure the speakers are equal.

It may be more than you want to spend, but starting with a set like that will last you forever and every time you listen you will know it was worth it. Damn I sound like a shill!!!

Anyway, good audio just makes any movie or game experience so much better. I really wish game developers would spend more time with audio tech. IMO it adds a lot more to immersion and enjoyment than more visual effects. That's one reason I am kind of excited for the new Xbox, I've heard they really invested some time and money into the audio processing.