The Auto Repair Thread
- Thread starter Wuyley_sl
- Start date
Jorren
Maximum Derek
- 1,429
- 1,337
When it happens on Mom's car this is what happens. The first time it happened to me it clicked but did not start to turn over. Now mine sounds like it tries to turn over repeatedly and then starts up.
Borzak
Bronze Baron of the Realm
- 24,695
- 32,082
Clicking is the solenoid trying to engage the drive to engage the flywheel. The starter won't spin over until the solenoid moves the drive gear forward. The solenoid is on top. If it's clicking it's either worn and the plunger is sticking which is why it sometimes does it when it's hot, or it no longer has the power to engage the lever arm to get the starter drive out of the case to engage the flywheel.
On todays car it basically means you need a new starter. I don't think they sell new solenoids for new cars separately. They used to sell them for chevy's by the boatload back in the day. They would wear and get hot next to the engine. Ford had a solenoid that was mounted on the innner fender where it was much cooler. You could bypass it with a screwdriver in a fix.
Been a long time tho. I sold auto parts in high school almost 30 years ago and then moved onto building race cars on the side for a few years out of high school. Olden times. I miss having class till noon as a senior, and had auto mechanics till 11am then a single english class lol.
- 24,494
- 45,426
Thats just because you hear the solenoid click but the battery doesn't have enough power to move the starter/flywheel. So it just clanks rather than moves anywhere. Hook up a jumper or new battery and it works fine.
Lejina
(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻
- 4,514
- 11,597
Check the battery. If it's good, then put your head under the hood and check where the clicking noise comes from. If it's from the starter (bolted to the engine block) then the solenoid is bad, need new starter. If it's from the side by the fender then it's the relay I described earlier.
I went with the relay with my original suggestion because the guy said he brought it to a mechanic. Any mechanic who doesn't have downs will test the battery and can figure out if the starter if busted.
What throws mechanics in a loop with an intermittent starter problem is usually a bad relay or a ground fault.
I went with the relay with my original suggestion because the guy said he brought it to a mechanic. Any mechanic who doesn't have downs will test the battery and can figure out if the starter if busted.
What throws mechanics in a loop with an intermittent starter problem is usually a bad relay or a ground fault.
Erronius
Macho Ma'am
- 16,489
- 42,454
They don't bind up like this only when they're hot, either...you can get a little moisture in one as well and they'll freeze up overnight. I spent a lot of time in the Army banging on frozen starters in the morning, but hey, it works.
lurker
Vyemm Raider
- 1,376
- 2,840
The clue here is that 3 cars in the neighborhood are experiencing the same problem. Three cars with faulty starters, solenoids or relays is possible but unlikely. Three cars with old and weak batteries made worse by cold winter weather is more likely. I'd work that angle and also check, clean and tighten all battery/starter wire connections.
opiate82
Bronze Squire
- 3,078
- 5
Your car starting should be weather independant. If it was "weather related" you should probably still figure out why it was happening and make sure the issue gets fixed.
Outside of extreme cold it probably is battery related exasperated by the weather.
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
- 37,961
- 14,508
I replaced all 4 tires on my '13 Accord on Saturday. I put 90k miles on the original tires, so it was time and the car drives so much nicer now.
Problem is my TPMS indication light won't shut off. Manual says they need to recalibrate the TPMS on a tire change and could take 30-60 minutes of driving to clear. I've driven a good few hours on the tires now and it's still lit up. Also I checked the tire pressure and it's still good.
What could they have possibly fucked up? Is it a disconnection issue?
Problem is my TPMS indication light won't shut off. Manual says they need to recalibrate the TPMS on a tire change and could take 30-60 minutes of driving to clear. I've driven a good few hours on the tires now and it's still lit up. Also I checked the tire pressure and it's still good.
What could they have possibly fucked up? Is it a disconnection issue?
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
- 37,961
- 14,508
Eomer
Trakanon Raider
- 5,472
- 272
Some vehicles you can't reset yourself, for whatever reason. My 5 series BMW I can reset after swapping tires or changing pressures. But the GM Yukon needs to be reset at a dealer. And with the girlfriend's Matrix, you're supposed to be able to reset it by pressing a button, but that shit never works for some reason.
opiate82
Bronze Squire
- 3,078
- 5
Every vehicle I've had with TPMS, the reset has been in the glove box and even if the pressure is currently correct the light won't turn off until you do something with that button.