The House Plants Thread

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Big Phoenix

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So my orange tree has very developed mulch, lots of worms, snails etc. Would there be any benefit to transfering some over to my other two trees?
 

Voyce

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Just watched it catch a house fly, that of its own accord decided it wanted to enter my apartment and land on the Venus Fly Trap of all things.

Bwahahaaha, I love this "creature"!
 
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AngryGerbil

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White flies have wrecked many of my front porch plants. The predatory mites arrive packed in ice on Friday. The flies don't seem to be on my elephant ear. My other two dahlias look awful, this is the one that has looked the best from day 1 and is still the healthiest one. It has been heavily defoliated by the flies but it's still going strong. It has outgrown the stake but it still has no signs of buds.

hfyEPF4.jpg


I have six caladium bulbs in this pot that I put in there in February. They have just started peaking out.

ZV769oy.jpg


This is the elephant ear and the giant sunflower. The stem of the sunflower is all messed up but I'm hoping it will stand up straight soon.

Hfi0c7i.jpg
 
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Furry

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Its fucking happpppening!

photo_2017-06-27_11-14-07.jpg


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AngryGerbil

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The Elm in summer.

mWGHWWw.jpg


The Oak in summer.

LIdFUTM.jpg


Dahlias. Struggling but hanging in there.

jhJYC92.jpg


Caladium, sunflower, elephant ear.

gBTbqTF.jpg
 
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Mr_Bungle

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I really love Adeniums. The Caudex on that plant is quite beautiful. I also noticed that the branches are not grafted from another cultivar so the blooms are true to the Caudex. (many plants are sold with different colored grafts from plants who's genetics produce blooms of vivid color and various petal formations.)

Long story short I'm glad to see an Adenium that was allowed to produce its own blooms :emoji_thumbsup:.
 
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Big Phoenix

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Heat and sunlight is taking a toll on my grapefruit;

0bYmVy6.jpg


ruhXDRe.jpg


though it is starting to send out my limbs;

Ew3Vber.jpg

Best way to deal with this? Im watering it pretty much every day and ive put an umbrella right on top of it to block out 60-70% of the days light on it but its still getting worse. Ironically the lemon tree looks completely recovered from everything it lost, its completely full of new leaves and limbs.
 
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Furry

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I really love Adeniums. The Caudex on that plant is quite beautiful. I also noticed that the branches are not grafted from another cultivar so the blooms are true to the Caudex. (many plants are sold with different colored grafts from plants who's genetics produce blooms of vivid color and various petal formations.)

Long story short I'm glad to see an Adenium that was allowed to produce its own blooms :emoji_thumbsup:.

Takes a long fucking time to do all of the above too. That plant is old and its blooming for the first time. I was just about to repot it too.
 
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Mr_Bungle

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Heat and sunlight is taking a toll on my grapefruit;

0bYmVy6.jpg


ruhXDRe.jpg


though it is starting to send out my limbs;

Ew3Vber.jpg

Best way to deal with this? Im watering it pretty much every day and ive put an umbrella right on top of it to block out 60-70% of the days light on it but its still getting worse. Ironically the lemon tree looks completely recovered from everything it lost, its completely full of new leaves and limbs.


Nursery plants (even shrubs and trees) somtimes take a few weeks to adapt to new conditions especially during seasonal changes. This may be the plants first year actually outside of the protection offered by a greenhouse and may be trying to cope with the full electromagnetic spectrum it's receiving.

Additionally you can purchase shade cloth designed for plants, they are made in a variety of thicknesses so you can pick the exact percentage of light you want filtered out.

If this is indeed the problem I would suggest shading the plant from the hours of 11:30 to 4:00pm. When the rays are at their strongest. Eventually you can slowly reduce the amount of time the cloth is on by maybe 30mins a week when the leaves start to produce green chlorophyll again as opposed to the protective yellow and reddish pigments.

Have you been fertilizing this plant heavily? That can also cause defoliation due to chemical toxicity.

However;


You say you're watering it everyday huh? Yellowing leaves can also be a sign of overwatering. I would ease up on the watering. Check the soil with your finger for dryness.

The following link advises to let the top 6 inches of soil dry out before watering again. Also you should water first thing in the morning so the sun and wind can wick away any excess moisture as the day goes on.

Morning watering schedules can do wonders for plants that are sensitive to rot. I only water the majority of my plants including orchids in the morning for this reason alone.


Signs of Overwatering in Orange Trees

Shade cloth

Custom Shade Cloth
 
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Dandain

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Is there any way you can change the reflectivity of what you're shading with the tree during the day. I was thinking if you had any potted plants you could have around it. I have no idea if the dark rock/bark at the base might contribute to a higher temperature at the root base. I am really grasping at ideas about how to change the weather in branches of your tree locally. A similar idea to what any orchard does when the weather is going to freeze. They roll out giant burners, smudge pots, and their goal is just to make a microclimate around their trees. I've used the same technique for spring freezes with my cherry tree after it blossoms. I just use old tiny grills, and burn charcoal hot from around 1-6:30. But they have been enough given the location and size of my tree.



There seems little reason that approaching the other extreme, of softening the intensity of the light and heat on the area of the tree could have a similar effect. I was thinking you could also put some kind of container of water that could evaporate like a local humidifier. Your tree is small, the helper plants wouldn't need to be big to have an effect. Maybe hexagon your tree in with some hearty potted plants that can handle the location, be mindful of lighter colors to reflect more light. And have some open water to change the humidity local to the tree itself that doesn't involve dumping more water in the ground.

These are probably all useless notions, but figured if we are trying anything, some compelling snake oil might be worth the attempt.
 
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AngryGerbil

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One way I've seen microclimates produced in hotter areas is with hedges. There was a Youtube channel that had all of the BBC Gardener's World on it but it finally got taken down. Before it did though I managed to watch several dozen episodes. In there I remember a specific garden that needed a cool moist fresh environment like in a gentle meadow in a temperate zone, but this particular garden was located on a rocky cliff in southern California on the edge of the ocean. Hot, windy, dry, and salty. The exact opposite of what the plants in this garden needed. The way he beat it was to shield his garden from the salty wind of the ocean by planting a bunch of native hedges and trees to act as a natural shield so as to help create a microclimate.

This creates a sort of shadow from the normal hot dry salty wind and provides a small oasis of cooler, moister, calmer, gentler, and fresher climate. Amend the local soil heavily with organics, water it with fresh water often, and then plant in the 'shadow' of your natural heat-salt-sheild. That was his particular strategy. The shield itself probably took several years to grow on its own before he was even able to attempt to grow these dainty soft little English or Chinese spring flowers in this harsh hot rocky slat climate he was in.

Anyway, just a thought about how to maybe help shield your whole yard, if you were so inclined.
 
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Mr_Bungle

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Serpens Serpens those seedlings look very healthy! I look forward to watching their progress. Your succulent garden is also look quite well, I noticed that you have a cacti that is about to bloom too!
 
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Big Phoenix

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Nursery plants (even shrubs and trees) somtimes take a few weeks to adapt to new conditions especially during seasonal changes. This may be the plants first year actually outside of the protection offered by a greenhouse and may be trying to cope with the full electromagnetic spectrum it's receiving.
I believe the tree is 2-3 years old. It was in a small pot up until this spring when I planted so this is its first time having to really endure the summer.
Have you been fertilizing this plant heavily? That can also cause defoliation due to chemical toxicity.
Havent fertilized it since I planted it.Though how often should you fertilize a tree?
However;


You say you're watering it everyday huh? Yellowing leaves can also be a sign of overwatering. I would ease up on the watering. Check the soil with your finger for dryness.

The following link advises to let the top 6 inches of soil dry out before watering again. Also you should water first thing in the morning so the sun and wind can wick away any excess moisture as the day goes on.

Morning watering schedules can do wonders for plants that are sensitive to rot. I only water the majority of my plants including orchids in the morning for this reason alone.


Signs of Overwatering in Orange Trees

Shade cloth

Custom Shade Cloth
Yeah definitely did some over watering, as my orange tree has started getting some yellow in its leaves. Wasnt sure if it was too much as the past 10 days or so its been 110+ here, close to 120 numerous days.

Is there any way you can change the reflectivity of what you're shading with the tree during the day. I was thinking if you had any potted plants you could have around it. I have no idea if the dark rock/bark at the base might contribute to a higher temperature at the root base. I am really grasping at ideas about how to change the weather in branches of your tree locally. A similar idea to what any orchard does when the weather is going to freeze. They roll out giant burners, smudge pots, and their goal is just to make a microclimate around their trees. I've used the same technique for spring freezes with my cherry tree after it blossoms. I just use old tiny grills, and burn charcoal hot from around 1-6:30. But they have been enough given the location and size of my tree.



There seems little reason that approaching the other extreme, of softening the intensity of the light and heat on the area of the tree could have a similar effect. I was thinking you could also put some kind of container of water that could evaporate like a local humidifier. Your tree is small, the helper plants wouldn't need to be big to have an effect. Maybe hexagon your tree in with some hearty potted plants that can handle the location, be mindful of lighter colors to reflect more light. And have some open water to change the humidity local to the tree itself that doesn't involve dumping more water in the ground.

These are probably all useless notions, but figured if we are trying anything, some compelling snake oil might be worth the attempt.

No other plants I could use.
 
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Mr_Bungle

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My Hoya vine is really taking off, I had to add a 3rd support.

0U15pgG.jpg



IFPyxuy.jpg
 
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Mr_Bungle

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I bought these at a local greenhouse today, the spider plant has many arm length bloom spikes which I hope will produce more babies later.

etFWO8B.jpg


lyZDRez.jpg




This is a Kangaroo Fern. Finding this specimen led me to do some reading in the area of tropical ferns. There are many different kinds, many of them are epiphytes.

0jV7Sqz.jpg



nfRPPqv.jpg


Mf0koHj.jpg


xn7eyPa.jpg
 
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