Captain Suave
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Woodworking
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Intrinsic
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So been pondering this for a while without actually doing anything. May have actually made a post about it in here months and months ago. But I'm continually reorganizing my book shelfs in the office, either because of new books coming in or because the shelf itself is sagging. To address that I just take everything off, flip the shelf, and redistribute the weight or change around what is behind my desk or on the other sides of the room.
Any ideas about reinforcing these so they don't sag? The shelves are some particle board laminate as pictured below. My first couple of thoughts was taking some hardwood and routing a face to go along and under the front edge (and back if necessary) to add some support along the length. I have some cherry, sapelle, padauk, and may a few other pieces in the shop I could use that might look nice against the dark grey.
Otherwise, I guess just some angle iron or something rigid that I can affix to the shelf underneath across the span? I think I'm also hung up on attaching to that particle board. It feels like anything screw in will pull out, cutting it would just make it break apart, and glue wouldn't work well b/c of how porous it looks.
Just throwing it out there, I have a few more things coming in to put on the shelf and the problem will just get worse. Unfortunately replacing all my book cases isn't an option until we get a new house in a few years.
Any ideas about reinforcing these so they don't sag? The shelves are some particle board laminate as pictured below. My first couple of thoughts was taking some hardwood and routing a face to go along and under the front edge (and back if necessary) to add some support along the length. I have some cherry, sapelle, padauk, and may a few other pieces in the shop I could use that might look nice against the dark grey.
Otherwise, I guess just some angle iron or something rigid that I can affix to the shelf underneath across the span? I think I'm also hung up on attaching to that particle board. It feels like anything screw in will pull out, cutting it would just make it break apart, and glue wouldn't work well b/c of how porous it looks.
Just throwing it out there, I have a few more things coming in to put on the shelf and the problem will just get worse. Unfortunately replacing all my book cases isn't an option until we get a new house in a few years.
Captain Suave
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Unfortunately, sagging is the nature of particle board. Short of fabricating new shelves, I'd go with your idea of hardwood reinforcement. Angle is overkill.
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Intrinsic
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What about attaching them? I'm not sure how glue adheres to the melamine outer layer assuming that is what it is. I did some research and found confirmat screws are recommended for particle board. I could get a shorter length like this and come from below. Wouldn't want to go from the front into the shelf.
Captain Suave
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I'd just try whatever regular screws you have, driven by hand, or there are specific melamine adhesives (or even just contact cement). This isn't a high load scenario and there's little movement so you should be ok with almost anything.
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Captain Suave
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stupidmonkey
Not Smrt
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Reminded me of something I saw that seemed a bit overkill on YouTube and since it's woodpeckers probably $300 + accessories
Burns
Avatar of War Slayer
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You could do a back rail that is attached to the case, which the shelf sits on. You may be able to get it color matched with paint, close enough that it's not distracting, hidden in the back.
Otherwise, as you alluded to above, you could start with the back of the shelf, instead of the front.
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Intrinsic
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Yeah my plan was “best” because that’s how I’ve done shelf faces in the past, was just hung up on attaching it instead of throwing caution to the wind and securing the sucker. No way would I try to route in to that particle board. Plywood sure lol
Unfortunately the case back is just the flimsy cardboard whatever that comes with these inexpensive bookcases or I’d definitely do that.
Maybe Sunday I’ll have a chance to test something out. Will post a pic. Probably run some 120 grit over the edge of the melamine to rough it up a bit before applying adhesive.
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Intrinsic
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Aesthetically I really do like the looks of some of those that pop up on Instagram or Facebook. But then functionally I’m like what a retarded idea.
There was a company, may still exist, called Dust that did really amazing Dr. Seuss style furniture. Never picked any up but man looking at it was cool.
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Captain Suave
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My first foray into cabinets. I think they turned out fairly well, with a few foibles. Adjustable shelves, soft close hinges, etc. No hardware; the underside of the doors have an integral pull surface. It's two carcasses hung side by side on a french cleat. Wood is stained beech with satin Arm-r-seal.
Obviously the grain pattern on the panels runs in different directions. These were originally going to be painted, but mywife customer changed her mind mid-stream and wanted to match the midcentury modern walnut vanity on the opposite wall. (These are in a bathroom.) At that point I had already cut everything to maximize yield, ignoring visuals. Plus it added a week of finishing. Argh. She likes it, though.
The gaps are more consistent than it looks like in this photo, but two of the doors took on a bit of a twist during finishing. Hopefully they'll flatten out with time. At least the doors are the easiest part to redo, if it comes to that. Next time I'm going to buy a jig to locate the hinge cups and screws. I ended up bottoming out the adjustments on the hinges. Live and learn.
Edit: Also, if I never see edge banding again it will be too soon.
Obviously the grain pattern on the panels runs in different directions. These were originally going to be painted, but my
The gaps are more consistent than it looks like in this photo, but two of the doors took on a bit of a twist during finishing. Hopefully they'll flatten out with time. At least the doors are the easiest part to redo, if it comes to that. Next time I'm going to buy a jig to locate the hinge cups and screws. I ended up bottoming out the adjustments on the hinges. Live and learn.
Edit: Also, if I never see edge banding again it will be too soon.
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They look nice! 100% on the hinge jig. You can get them for <$30 and its worth it. Also, the only way I've found to limit twist in doors is to make rail and stile doors. It's kinda difficult to have completely flat panel, veneered doors if they are rail and stile though.
MDF panel tends to twist less than plywood, but you have to inset wood where the hinges go or the screws will just pull out over time.
Good job!
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moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
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Captain Suave
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moonarchia
The Scientific Shitlord
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Well done, dude. I'm making all my kitchen cabinets. People who don't build cabinets do not know how absolutely finicky they are. It's so rewarding to see them set into place.
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Palum
what Suineg set it to
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It's not that hard bro. You just gotta attach panel A to panel C with the two cam bolts, then attach B to C and D to the front.
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