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Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
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You should try this in maple or white oak. The wide/varied grain in the pine makes it kinda stripey when you add stain. Or maybe shellac first and use a gel stain? Regardless this is a neat project and pine is great for cost/experimenting with process. Might also just be the lighting making the stripes stand out
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Intrinsic
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You could try some of the Keda dye also. I'm about to use some if it ever gets above 25 degrees and I have two seconds. The examples I've seen online make some of those variances really pop and you can mix any color / shade you want. A lot of guitar examples onilne.
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I'm guessing you're talking solid wood, right? I have some....1/4in I think....maple and white oak veneer on MDF that I got from the cabinet shop. I haven't done this with them because I figured I'd end up going through the veneer when I planed it down.
Intrinsic
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Obviously it depends on how much you’re taking off. I assume the hot glue is to keep it on the sled when you plane? Are you shimming the edges to take out any unevenness before flipping? I guess I’m saying are you using it more to thickness.
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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Hot glue is a barrier for the resin when I pour it, and I was gluing it onto the sled too, yea. I use hot glue because its so fucking easy to take off afterwards with a few sprays of isopropyl alcohol.
I'm still getting the hang of the planer. Not confident I could get down to the right thickness without getting through the veneer yet. Isn't that shit like 1/32"?
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Correct, solid wood. I'm not sure what size those panels are, but you could laminate some boards to get a big panel if needed. You just need wood with a tight, closed grain. Then sand to 400 before you stain, which will fill any pores and help it penetrate more evenly. Don't shortcut this step, especially if you are staining. Everyone hates sanding but it makes a massive difference in finish look and feel.
If you want, you can precondition the wood using the same base as the stain (alcohol/acetone, mineral spirits typically).
I bet this turns out great when you get your process tweaked
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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Ahh, thanks. I didn't know the precondition was supposed to be the same base as the stain. I just thought it was water, based on what a few people told me.
I wanted to do a 45d chamfer, but not sure I left myself enough room. I kind of wonder what it would look like if I cut into the resin with a wider chamfer, but I didn't really design it for that and I'm guessing I wouldn't get a perfect alignment along the whole thing.
This was a sap pocket, by the way.
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Intrinsic
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Those are looking really cool man. Not a lot to do with the noise of a planar, a helical cutter can make a difference in the same way that 9.9 is less than 10.0. But then you’re in another $300 and the time it takes to install it.
I was taking a couple pieces down from 1 1/2” to 1 1/4” today and realized a couple of things:
A) I am terrible at dialing in thickness. I know there is a dial on the left hand with certain stops for 1/8”, 1/4” and so forth but I’ll be damned if I read the manual. There’s also the “how much are you removing gauge” so if I measure and need another 1/16” that can be a spot to check. Plus I have a digital gauge on it that I couldn’t get calibrated so I can use it as a reference but not an exact thickness. Plus have to compensate for the sled thickness or anything else.
2) I’m not 100% that I waxed the bed of the planar after buying it. The poplar I was thicknessing today kept catching and not feeding and was irritating me like wtf exactly is happening here. Took the top off to make sure the belts were going and everything was spinning. Well said screw it let’s just reapply some paste wax. Damn thing was smooth as a baby’s butt and the wood just glides on through. Felt like an idiot.
Mom wanted an end table so was putting one together out of some poplar I had and some Sapele that I bought after seeing kovacs pictures. Will take a snap tomorrow. Still need to build the drawer but everything else went quick.
I was taking a couple pieces down from 1 1/2” to 1 1/4” today and realized a couple of things:
A) I am terrible at dialing in thickness. I know there is a dial on the left hand with certain stops for 1/8”, 1/4” and so forth but I’ll be damned if I read the manual. There’s also the “how much are you removing gauge” so if I measure and need another 1/16” that can be a spot to check. Plus I have a digital gauge on it that I couldn’t get calibrated so I can use it as a reference but not an exact thickness. Plus have to compensate for the sled thickness or anything else.
2) I’m not 100% that I waxed the bed of the planar after buying it. The poplar I was thicknessing today kept catching and not feeding and was irritating me like wtf exactly is happening here. Took the top off to make sure the belts were going and everything was spinning. Well said screw it let’s just reapply some paste wax. Damn thing was smooth as a baby’s butt and the wood just glides on through. Felt like an idiot.
Mom wanted an end table so was putting one together out of some poplar I had and some Sapele that I bought after seeing kovacs pictures. Will take a snap tomorrow. Still need to build the drawer but everything else went quick.
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A non-furniture project from me this time. My son has a tent/canopy over his bed that I made for him, and he wanted a lamp so that he could read inside at night. When asked what it should look like, he said, "An avocado". Odd choice for a lamp and from a 10 year old, but whatever.
I made this from a single piece of spalted wood from a neighbor's tree (I think juniper), loosely inspired by some carved wooden fruit that my mom used to have. I lifted the front and rear faces off the body with dowels and suspended a "seed" in the center, which I shaped from the wood extracted from the cavity. Outside is stained to approximate the avocado rind. I bought a cheapo LED strip light and wrapped it around the interior. The ugly streaking on the front face is from CA glue I used to stabilize some checking. I had forgotten that it wouldn't sand out because this was end grain, but at this point I was committed to finish. C'est la vie. The official story is it's a slightly overripe avocado.
None of the photos came out that I took in real darkness, but it actually looks pretty sweet. LEDs have a remote that let my kid change colors, apply timers, etc. He loves it, so it's a win.
I made this from a single piece of spalted wood from a neighbor's tree (I think juniper), loosely inspired by some carved wooden fruit that my mom used to have. I lifted the front and rear faces off the body with dowels and suspended a "seed" in the center, which I shaped from the wood extracted from the cavity. Outside is stained to approximate the avocado rind. I bought a cheapo LED strip light and wrapped it around the interior. The ugly streaking on the front face is from CA glue I used to stabilize some checking. I had forgotten that it wouldn't sand out because this was end grain, but at this point I was committed to finish. C'est la vie. The official story is it's a slightly overripe avocado.
None of the photos came out that I took in real darkness, but it actually looks pretty sweet. LEDs have a remote that let my kid change colors, apply timers, etc. He loves it, so it's a win.
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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amazon sale on dewalt 10in table saw DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw, 32-1/2-Inch Rip Capacity (DWE7491RS)
usually it's 599 and theres a 529 drop, now its 489
i've read its the most accurate jobsite fence model
usually it's 599 and theres a 529 drop, now its 489
i've read its the most accurate jobsite fence model
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I have one of these. I generally like it a lot, but the miter slots are dogshit and open up at the back end of the table, which makes all my sleds wobble at the end of the cuts. The table is aluminum so it's possible to true them up with a router, but I haven't had the balls to try that yet. Also the arbor has some fairly significant runout and I get a ~.135'' kerf with a normal .125" blade, which tends to fuck up finger joints pretty badly.
I love the fence, though, and the ability to roll it up for storage is nice if you need a modular shop.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Also looks like it does support 8" or 6" dado stacks up to 13/16" which is normal but there saw out there are ones that do not so I always check. Buy a couple of zero clearance inserts while you're at it if you don't want to make your own:
Amazon product ASIN B097Z38FFM
I used the similar Ridgid jobsite saw with stand for about 5 - 6 years before getting the Sawstop and honestly it was perfectly fine for 99% of everything I did. Although I did hate the fence with a passion. Maybe that Dewalt fence is better.
Will say though, for that price you're getting awfully close to a good Delta Hybrid saw if you have the fixed space and don't need a mobile cart. And if you do need the mobile base the Ridgid model is on sale pretty often for $369. With the state of Ridgid though I'd probably just go with Dewalt. Probably more tutorials and options available if you ever wanted to upgrade the fence.
If anyone needs a 6" Freud dado set let me know. Not sure what shipping would be since I'm not Amazon but just replaced mine with an 8" Olshun stack. It is only $75 on Amazon anyways and mine is used, but no one else I know uses it. Maybe I'll throw it on Marketplace. Sold that Ridgid there for $150 that lasted about 2 minutes.
Amazon product ASIN B0000223O8
Amazon product ASIN B097Z38FFM
I used the similar Ridgid jobsite saw with stand for about 5 - 6 years before getting the Sawstop and honestly it was perfectly fine for 99% of everything I did. Although I did hate the fence with a passion. Maybe that Dewalt fence is better.
RIDGID 15 Amp 10 in. Portable Corded Pro Jobsite Table Saw with Stand R4514 - The Home Depot
Complete all your hardest work easily and quickly by selecting this RIDGID Pro Jobsite Table Saw with Stand. Lifetime Service Agreement with registration.
www.homedepot.com
Will say though, for that price you're getting awfully close to a good Delta Hybrid saw if you have the fixed space and don't need a mobile cart. And if you do need the mobile base the Ridgid model is on sale pretty often for $369. With the state of Ridgid though I'd probably just go with Dewalt. Probably more tutorials and options available if you ever wanted to upgrade the fence.
If anyone needs a 6" Freud dado set let me know. Not sure what shipping would be since I'm not Amazon but just replaced mine with an 8" Olshun stack. It is only $75 on Amazon anyways and mine is used, but no one else I know uses it. Maybe I'll throw it on Marketplace. Sold that Ridgid there for $150 that lasted about 2 minutes.
Amazon product ASIN B0000223O8
Soygen
The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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We're planning a kitchen reno in the next year or so and I'm probably going to tackle making all the bottom cabinets(going to leave the current tops up and just do new doors for them), so I decided to start practicing on cabinet stuff with shop furniture. Made this little rolling cabinet out of a bunch of random scrap plywood I had. Gave it a solid wood top from some old table top my brother gave me. I also used that to make the drawer handles(anyone know what kind of wood that is?). Fits perfectly under my table saw extensions, so will use it for storage near the saw. Only thing I needed to actually buy were the drawer slides. All in all, this frankencabinet came together ok. A whole kitchen job is still a bit daunting, though.
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