So, it took me the better part of 2 hours to A) get that saw started, and B) tune it up so it purrs like a kitten. It is still C) putting out an absolutely nonsensically excessive amount of bar oil even on the lowest output setting, but I can't see that being too terrible of a problem ripping anyway. Reviews are absolutely spot on - so far seems to be a great saw, IF you're not averse to a little bit of work. Still not entirely sure what the problem was, but if my trial and error is to be believed, it starts with a spark plug gap of 0.02" but not with 0.022", as fucked as that sounds.
I took the full wrap handle off, and now tomorrow I've gotta rebuild the mount to get it onto the sawmill tower, drilling a couple holes thru a 36" bar to bolt it on shouldn't be a big deal....said no one ever.
But, hopefully, with a little reinforcement (I'm using and inch and a half of plywood now instead of 3/4"), I think we're gonna be able to support that fucking hog. Can't wait to run 13,500rpms thru some walnut.
While I fully support your DIY attitude and fortitude, but when it comes to slabbing logs into lumber I usually just go find a pro-shop that does high end wood working and ask them how much to run it thru their millsaw, more often than not they will do it in 20 minutes off the clock for a case of beer. Sometime they will even let you dig in their scrap piles for some nice little bits and pieces you can use for accents.
This looks very nice, just be aware though as the wood moves your miters on the boarder might spread a bit. Also not sure if pocket holes to attach the apron to to the top will allow for movement. May cause problems down the road. Then again sometimes wood doesn't move and nothing happens.I think I'll do one more like this out of common board before moving on to something nicer. I'm happy with the way this one came together in general, though. First coat of stain is drying. I'll do one more, then some poly and buff.
View attachment 419236View attachment 419237View attachment 419238View attachment 419239
You saying I should have stuck with dowels?This looks very nice, just be aware though as the wood moves your miters on the boarder might spread a bit. Also not sure if pocket holes to attach the apron to to the top will allow for movement. May cause problems down the road. Then again sometimes wood doesn't move and nothing happens.
Might help, might still see a little separation, usually if you want to frame a table you want to use plywood or mdf as a substrate then glue the boards on top. For attaching wood tips is use eitherYou saying I should have stuck with dowels?
Edit - the borders are joined to the main boards by a ton of dowels, including one in each of the miters. Not sure if that matters.
I mean....it's not really a problem as long as it's not in MY living room, right?Might help, might still see a little separation, usually if you want to frame a table you want to use plywood or mdf as a substrate then glue the boards on top. For attaching wood tips is use either
Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs Amazon.com: Table Top Fasteners with Screws Silver Heavy Duty Z Clips Table Top Connectors, Set of 36 Packs : Office Products
Or
Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack
Securely fasten wooden tops to your desks and occasional tables, while also allowing for seasonal wood movement.www.rockler.com
Both allow for movement
I've used those figure eight fasteners (generic from Amazon) on several projects. They're great.Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack
Securely fasten wooden tops to your desks and occasional tables, while also allowing for seasonal wood movement.www.rockler.com
I mean....it's not really a problem as long as it's not in MY living room, right?
Well now I'm worried about that resin inlay cracking too, since it goes across joints.
Thanks. I don't mind the criticism at all...that's why I'm posting stuff here. All of this is new to me. As long as you all remember that 99% of my interest really just revolves around "Pretty Maps". The orientation of those planks is the only way I could accomplish it on the laser due to the bed size I'm limited to. Hopefully the new CNC router will help with some of those limitations once I get it up and running. As long as I'm learning more on each project, I'm happy. I've gotten a ton of great advice in here (shoutout to whomever pointed out that I should be using conditioner before staining). And Intrinsic too, for motivating me to prioritize a clean work space. General advice/concepts have been helping a bunch. Skill-based stuff, like making a straight fuckin' cut, are still frustrating. But I'm getting better at the stuff I'm practicing. No improvement on the straight cut stuff though. I keep talking myself out of working on that one because I feel like I need to build a dedicated table for the tablesaw.Just as a gentle criticism, wood movement is why most tables are constructed with the grain running in the long direction of the top. The way you've set it up could get 3-4x more shifting than if the grain were oriented the other way. On the other hand, if it's already well-acclimated and going into a similar, climate-controlled environment everything could easily be fine.
You're the 5th person today that said they felt like shit. Stomach bug kind of feeling?
You're the 5th person today that said they felt like shit. Stomach bug kind of feeling?
looks like you would need to brace the end of the bar with it being that longView attachment 419826
Saw mounted, leveled, ready to rock.
Felt like shit today, so took it easy and only worked 10 hours. I'll fire it up when I get home from work tomorrow and see what we get.
looks like you would need to brace the end of the bar with it being that long