Car ?'s

Kobayashi said:

I'd say default first step is to read DTCs. It's extremely easy and zero risk. I like Bluedriver since it'll read from every module in the vehicle for about 100 bucks, but in this case probably isn't necessary since you're diagnosing powertrain. You can buy a cheap Autel dongle or an ELM327 clone and use the Torque app for around 20 bucks. Or you can scan for free with a loaner code reader at most auto parts chains. If you're lucky, you'll see some current or past DTC that could clue you in on a potential root cause like a pending dtc for a misfire.

First thought would be spark plugs - a lazy Google search appears to show a service interval of 40k miles for replacement on the turbo variant (yeesh).

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Buried somewhere i have a bluetooth obd2 thingy meant to be used w/ torque. lol at finding it though.

Dont know DTC stands for? I know there's currently no flashing codes on the dash. Will see if she's going to leave the car w/ me or not. My redneck do it all guy says maybe vacuum leak. /shrug.

My googling I was thinking of doing coils and plugs.

Sludig said:

2020 CX5 with the bigger turbo 4. Wifes car I guess has started rough idling, idling high. Only like 50-60k miles. Work commute is long enough it's not some kind of unhappy over a lot of 1 mile trips. Air filter was pretty dirty and swapped that. Not sure where to start w/ self diagnosing on a more modern car, battery was tested for hell of it by the auto store. I havn't actually gotten my hands on it yet myself to observe.

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If the service engine soon light is on, then I would just go to O'Reilly, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc to have them look for codes. If it's not on, I'm not sure if they will read the deeper diagnostics for you. Also, if the service engine soon light isn't on, I'm not sure the Torque app will help either and probably need the full reader that Kobayashi mentioned. Disclaimer: I have never used a full reader, so don't know how helpful it would be, if your not getting codes on the dash.

It could be a fuel system problem so maybe toss in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, to get something running through the system, if you need to wait for the diagnostic tool. You can also have a shop do fuel system flush & clean (Fuel Injection and Carbon Clean Service).

You may want to also check the spark plugs for carbon build up. If you haven't done so already, the plugs and wires should be replaced at 60k miles. If the plugs are cheapo (non-platinum), then they should have been replaced at 30k too.

Your manual should have recommended services (tune-ups) for the various mile marks (30k, 60k, 100k, and so on). It's a pretty good place to start, as it should be done anyway and, with it, your not just throwing money at the problem.

Here is a shop cleaning the fuel system in England:

Sludig said:

Buried somewhere i have a bluetooth obd2 thingy meant to be used w/ torque. lol at finding it though.

Dont know DTC stands for? I know there's currently no flashing codes on the dash. Will see if she's going to leave the car w/ me or not. My redneck do it all guy says maybe vacuum leak. /shrug.

My googling I was thinking of doing coils and plugs.

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Sorry, DTC stands for diagnostic trouble code. The powertrain codes are pretty strictly regulated, so, anything that impacts emissions, even in an ancillary way, will turn on the check engine light. End result is you're correct, it's not likely going to show you anything, but it's definitely the easiest place to start. That being said, you can sometimes have what's called a pending code where it's not quite at the threshold for turning on the warning light. I think there's a little buffer room in terms of misfires too.

Vacuum leak is a possibility - one I always hope it's not since they can be a pain in the ass to track down.

Lanx said:

60k battery replacement costs more than the car

2022 hyundai shitionc 5



tldr, he got fucked insurance junked the car and now he'll have his rates are doubled

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That's pretty typical in terms of EVs - insurance companies are totaling them if there's any risks to the integrity of the battery. It is kind of funny that they're invoicing the battery that high - I figured it was going to be the labor cost that drove it above sticker.

It's going to get worse since most OEMs will transition to the pack becoming a stressed member to save weight. The new tesla packs are not designed to be repaired at all.

Lanx said:

ev's are just stupid and mechanics know it, which leads to price gouging/insurance fraud

i remember a riviaan fender bender, literally the fender bent, but the approved shop charged 42k

why the fuck do you have to remove the rear windshield to reinstall the rear fender???

it's just fraud, they can do this b/c no one else is capable of ev repairs (bodywork or battery)

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Rivian is becoming well known to be hard and costly to repair. It simply isn't engineered that well, and then there's the issue of very long wait times for parts.

Once the dust settles on this EV shit, I don't expect there to be a Rivian at all. No scalability in selling $75k vehicles.

Fucker said:

Rivian is becoming well known to be hard and costly to repair. It simply isn't engineered that well, and then there's the issue of very long wait times for parts.

Once the dust settles on this EV shit, I don't expect there to be a Rivian at all. No scalability in selling $75k vehicles.

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With inflation their 75K vehicle is now 100K vehicle, but it's OK because they're working on a new 75K vehicle!

Kobayashi said:

Sorry, DTC stands for diagnostic trouble code. The powertrain codes are pretty strictly regulated, so, anything that impacts emissions, even in an ancillary way, will turn on the check engine light. End result is you're correct, it's not likely going to show you anything, but it's definitely the easiest place to start. That being said, you can sometimes have what's called a pending code where it's not quite at the threshold for turning on the warning light. I think there's a little buffer room in terms of misfires too.

Vacuum leak is a possibility - one I always hope it's not since they can be a pain in the ass to track down.

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I think dealer blowing smoke up her ass and she gets angry at me and wants me to call them if I'm concerned. they want 1300 for a tune up plugs and fuel injection system service. Fuel is bullshit, it's not a 70s car they ain't tuning shit, it's like I thought and a $100 in spark or coils I bet. they said mainly cyc 4 misfire and assorted others.

It's that or I bet it still has issues after.

Oh and this is after her bumkin work mechanic said he couldn't work on it somehow because it was a Mazda lol.... this isn't jag/bmw with anything super proprietary.

Edaw said:

If the check engine light is on and it's not flashing, check the gas cap. The seals start to go bad and get a little loose. Tighten it good, turn the car off and on a few times and it should reset.

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Check back to op, but no codes of any kind.


Alleged tune up 550, then they want her on 230 fuel injection clean service, and the drive belt for like $300 77k miles. Waiting for a call back to find out if the fuel is at least the machine they connect to the fuel rail and blast it, and if they can show me pictures of actual fray/wear on the belt pre 100k miles.

Edaw said:

Seriously, check the gas cap. It has happened twice to my old lady because she is weak. (usually when it is a colder) She has a Mazda 6. Yellow engine light, not flashing. No error codes.

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But no engine light.

I don't think loose gas Cap is gonna cause cylinder misfires significantly

Edaw said:

No engine light, no error codes. I'd question if there is anything wrong at all. Sorry, I missed a lot of the posts. You got a chance to drive it?

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I saw it doing it's thing the other night. Pretty rough idle that comes in and out in severity, and also she said had been having rough/hard starts.

Edaw said:

Does she drive like an old lady or like she's always 15 minutes late?

I'd suggest filling it with premium, taking it for a hard drive and seeing if you can't get a light to come on or if it resolves itself.

It's odd to me that there is no engine light or error codes.

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Mostly miss daisy, it's already ran on premium. Though its rural OK so it's kum n go's finest. Started a few weeks ago and has gotten worse. She goes about 10-15 miles each way for work, and then the drive into tulsa 30miles or so to the dealer. Says it drives fine, just at stops.

Sludig said:

I think dealer blowing smoke up her ass and she gets angry at me and wants me to call them if I'm concerned. they want 1300 for a tune up plugs and fuel injection system service. Fuel is bullshit, it's not a 70s car they ain't tuning shit, it's like I thought and a $100 in spark or coils I bet. they said mainly cyc 4 misfire and assorted others.

It's that or I bet it still has issues after.

Oh and this is after her bumkin work mechanic said he couldn't work on it somehow because it was a Mazda lol.... this isn't jag/bmw with anything super proprietary.

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The "tune up" is usually the colloquial name for replacing plugs and wires, along with the rest of the service recommendations that come along with that. Which is different than getting your car "tuned" on a dyno, which changes the computer programing for timing, fuel/O2 mix, and some other things (I'm not sure how they "tune" 70's carb monsters).

I'd look up a video for replacing spark plugs/wires in your vehicle to see if it's something you can do yourself. Some cars have the engine all covered up and sideways, so reaching into the back plugs is a pain in the ass, but if it's not, it should be like a 30 min job. I cant remember the brand of plugs/wires I last bought, but you should be able to find people talking about brands on any of the enthusiasts websites (like rennlist.com, corvetteforum.com, etc.).

Did you toss a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into the last tank of gas, by chance? If it was me, I would do plugs and wires first, with a bottle or two of injector cleaner (one per tank of gas). If you have been using premium octane, I would hope that the injectors are just mildly coated with carbon. I don't know how likely it is to get bad gas, but (afaik) if the cylinder is misfiring, it can lead to much higher carbon build up, setting up a bit of a feedback loop.