Car ?'s

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Cad

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Palum said:
Yes. I tried idling for a while and increasing rpms without moving. It's all caught up on maintenance, 2016 only 60k miles. It's really not a 'whine' though, it's definitely a high pitched squeal, if that makes sense.
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If it only happens under load, doesn't happen when not moving, and goes away when it heats up, I'm guessing something transmission related.

You might just look at the fluid level indicator and see if there's anything obvious, and might do a transmission fluid flush. If it has 60k it might be due for it anyway.
 
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Cad said:
If it only happens under load, doesn't happen when not moving, and goes away when it heats up, I'm guessing something transmission related.

You might just look at the fluid level indicator and see if there's anything obvious, and might do a transmission fluid flush. If it has 60k it might be due for it anyway.
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Sounds transmission related to me too. Is it a dual clutch auto-manual or a true automatic? If it's a dual clutch, it could be some slippage you're hearing in the clutch system. Maybe. If it's a true automatic it could be something related to the torque converter, but I'm on shakier ground there. I think there's also some lock-up clutches that modern automatics use that could be involved? Not sure, but it's something to look into.

That is if you've eliminated the belts of course. If it goes away when you warm things up that tends to be a contra-indicator to it being belt related.
 
Rajaah

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How do people sell their car these days? I haven't had to sell a car since like 2008, and back then I just sold it to a relative. Have a significantly more expensive/new car now, but it's reached about 5 years old and I want to sell it while the blue book value is still high. Idea is to put a down payment on another one and have some money left over to pay off other things. Trading it in at a dealer would get me roughly two thirds of the blue book value if I'm lucky. Rather get the full amount and be able to take some for a downpayment on a newer car (or pay off an older used car outright and just roll with that) and apply the rest to patch up anything else that needs patching.

Still figuring out what I want to do, but suffice to say trading it in doesn't seem like the optimal way to get full value out of it. When I ask people how cars are sold these days, I get "craigslist" as an answer and that seems kind of... iffy? Like a good way to get the car stolen, get mugged, end up with a bounced check or suitcase full of counterfeit hundos, end up a prisoner in a sex dungeon, etc etc etc. So wondering what people use to sell cars that's safe (and viable in terms of the facilitating company not skimming).
 
Palum

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Rajaah said:
How do people sell their car these days? I haven't had to sell a car since like 2008, and back then I just sold it to a relative. Have a significantly more expensive/new car now, but it's reached about 5 years old and I want to sell it while the blue book value is still high. Idea is to put a down payment on another one and have some money left over to pay off other things. Trading it in at a dealer would get me roughly two thirds of the blue book value if I'm lucky. Rather get the full amount and be able to take some for a downpayment on a newer car (or pay off an older used car outright and just roll with that) and apply the rest to patch up anything else that needs patching.

Still figuring out what I want to do, but suffice to say trading it in doesn't seem like the optimal way to get full value out of it. When I ask people how cars are sold these days, I get "craigslist" as an answer and that seems kind of... iffy? Like a good way to get the car stolen, get mugged, end up with a bounced check or suitcase full of counterfeit hundos, end up a prisoner in a sex dungeon, etc etc etc. So wondering what people use to sell cars that's safe (and viable in terms of the facilitating company not skimming).
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I just used Facebook marketplace recently, I just ignored all the Hispanic names.

Also used Craigslist in the past. Just do a sales agreement and require a cashier's check. One time went to the guys bank to do a wire.
 
Denamian

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Rajaah said:
How do people sell their car these days? I haven't had to sell a car since like 2008, and back then I just sold it to a relative. Have a significantly more expensive/new car now, but it's reached about 5 years old and I want to sell it while the blue book value is still high. Idea is to put a down payment on another one and have some money left over to pay off other things. Trading it in at a dealer would get me roughly two thirds of the blue book value if I'm lucky. Rather get the full amount and be able to take some for a downpayment on a newer car (or pay off an older used car outright and just roll with that) and apply the rest to patch up anything else that needs patching.

Still figuring out what I want to do, but suffice to say trading it in doesn't seem like the optimal way to get full value out of it. When I ask people how cars are sold these days, I get "craigslist" as an answer and that seems kind of... iffy? Like a good way to get the car stolen, get mugged, end up with a bounced check or suitcase full of counterfeit hundos, end up a prisoner in a sex dungeon, etc etc etc. So wondering what people use to sell cars that's safe (and viable in terms of the facilitating company not skimming).
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I'm sure Onoes Onoes can help you with this.
 
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Burns

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Rajaah said:
How do people sell their car these days? I haven't had to sell a car since like 2008, and back then I just sold it to a relative. Have a significantly more expensive/new car now, but it's reached about 5 years old and I want to sell it while the blue book value is still high. Idea is to put a down payment on another one and have some money left over to pay off other things. Trading it in at a dealer would get me roughly two thirds of the blue book value if I'm lucky. Rather get the full amount and be able to take some for a downpayment on a newer car (or pay off an older used car outright and just roll with that) and apply the rest to patch up anything else that needs patching.

Still figuring out what I want to do, but suffice to say trading it in doesn't seem like the optimal way to get full value out of it. When I ask people how cars are sold these days, I get "craigslist" as an answer and that seems kind of... iffy? Like a good way to get the car stolen, get mugged, end up with a bounced check or suitcase full of counterfeit hundos, end up a prisoner in a sex dungeon, etc etc etc. So wondering what people use to sell cars that's safe (and viable in terms of the facilitating company not skimming).
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If it's a more specialty vehicle, like any sports car, jeep, BMW, Merc, or maybe even some Toyotas (Tundra or 4runner), I would at least stop by a specialty forum to look at how active the sale section is. While I haven't been in the market for a long time now, I think enthusiast sites are still a good source of price info, at the minimum (you can go back and look at previous sale prices in the last 6-12 months).

Outside of that, with the fall of Craigslist to scammers, I'm as lost as you are.
 
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Sludig

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Palum said:
I just used Facebook marketplace recently, I just ignored all the Hispanic names.

Also used Craigslist in the past. Just do a sales agreement and require a cashier's check. One time went to the guys bank to do a wire.
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Can still get fucked with a cashiers, I'm not clear on how, but that's what I'm told. Cash, wire transfer, or on my jag I'm paying with a cashiers in starting right there in front of him was good for him.
 
Palum

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Sludig said:
Can still get fucked with a cashiers, I'm not clear on how, but that's what I'm told. Cash, wire transfer, or on my jag I'm paying with a cashiers in starting right there in front of him was good for him.
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It's always possible to get fucked. You can pay for an escrow service if you want to pay a couple grand for more safety. Or you can just sell to some white boomer.
 
fred sanford

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Could always take it to a Carmax. They’ll make an offer and cut you a check if you agree. Otherwise you can leave with no harm done other than wasting some time.

It might not be the best offer but may save some headaches. I did it once and got a little more than I expected.
 
Onoes

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Denamian said:
I'm sure Onoes Onoes can help you with this.
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Fuck no. I am still driving the exact same 2013 Ford Focus I bought at the end of that whole fiasco. About to hit 250,000 miles, I will continue driving this until it dies, or I die. Fuck buying cars.
 
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Rajaah

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Sludig said:
Can still get fucked with a cashiers, I'm not clear on how, but that's what I'm told. Cash, wire transfer, or on my jag I'm paying with a cashiers in starting right there in front of him was good for him.
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I've also heard that. Car's blue book value is $14k and the bank is still owed 3 grand for it, so it's still in their name. Would probably be best to bring someone directly to the bank, have them pay cash and the bank check for counterfeits, and pay the car off / change it to the buyer's name all in one fell swoop. An hour of putzing around at the bank and they walk out with a nice car, I walk out with most of the money, bank walks away with the last $3k of payments.

fred sanford said:
Could always take it to a Carmax. They’ll make an offer and cut you a check if you agree. Otherwise you can leave with no harm done other than wasting some time.

It might not be the best offer but may save some headaches. I did it once and got a little more than I expected.
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I'll try this, and if they don't give me a good offer (I want at least $10k) I'll try selling it at closer to blue book value on FB Marketplace.

It's at 95k miles and I definitely want it sold before it reaches six digits, in the interest of getting more for it.
 
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Sludig

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Rajaah said:
I've also heard that. Car's blue book value is $14k and the bank is still owed 3 grand for it, so it's still in their name. Would probably be best to bring someone directly to the bank, have them pay cash and the bank check for counterfeits, and pay the car off / change it to the buyer's name all in one fell swoop. An hour of putzing around at the bank and they walk out with a nice car, I walk out with most of the money, bank walks away with the last $3k of payments.



I'll try this, and if they don't give me a good offer (I want at least $10k) I'll try selling it at closer to blue book value on FB Marketplace.

It's at 95k miles and I definitely want it sold before it reaches six digits, in the interest of getting more for it.
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If the bank has the loan, they'll sit down with you and sign stuff over. Though it's always ideal if you can just float the money and have the title.

even private seller unlikely to get blue book. Given the tiny value we are talking about here, they're is almost no sense in a you say rolling out into a nicer or even lower value car. It's a buyers market now for anything nice due to interest (have you looked, if you bought your likely at 10% interest) but the affordable used market of any quality is still slim picking.

Is be hard pressed to find a acceptable car for 10k unless I was also an able mechanic. Seems like little reason to not ride your current car out, I recall your purchase was rough or bad, but trying to swap it for any other car is ultimately going to cost you a good bit more than just letting the car ride out a few more years.
 
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Burns

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Sludig said:
even private seller unlikely to get blue book. Given the tiny value we are talking about here, they're is almost no sense in a you say rolling out into a nicer or even lower value car. It's a buyers market now for anything nice due to interest (have you looked, if you bought your likely at 10% interest) but the affordable used market of any quality is still slim picking.
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Yea, KBB is shit that I have always assumed is supported by the dealer lobby to make people think they are getting a good deal when they talk the dealer down close to that KBB value.

Can you get KBB value if you are selling it yourself? Probably, if you are willing to sit on it for 6+ months and deal with the tire kickers wasting your time, waiting for that 1 person who is willing to over pay. Usually, the people who are willing to pay KBB value are also only willing to get fucked by a dealer and won't go through the "hassle" of a private sale.

My probably out of date opinion on Carmax VS selling it yourself is that Carmax will give you ~15% (plus/minus 5%) less than what you could get selling it yourself. Although, that's just based on reading/hearing other people accounts of selling to them, since I didn't spend much time researching Carmax prices, as it was not an option I was considering.
 
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Siliconemelons

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KBB does the instant cash offer thing. It really just pings local dealers hat buy.

Have a car max quote, its good a few day- do the KBB offer, the buyers from KBB will usually out bid each other- do everything via email or text so you have a form of written offer.

Get your highest, do to the dealer you want to buy the car from - they most likely will match, and you get the tax savings - and all those options take care of any dealings with the loan residual.
 
ToeMissile

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Siliconemelons said:
KBB does the instant cash offer thing. It really just pings local dealers hat buy.

Have a car max quote, its good a few day- do the KBB offer, the buyers from KBB will usually out bid each other- do everything via email or text so you have a form of written offer.

Get your highest, do to the dealer you want to buy the car from - they most likely will match, and you get the tax savings - and all those options take care of any dealings with the loan residual.
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There’s Carvana as well.
 
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Sludig

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A few other online places as well, sold my first jag to car buyer. com or some shit had the best price by a little bit. All still worse than patience private selling
 
Palum

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So on my car one of the plastic rocker covers/side skirts got a half inch long scrape/hole underneath from a rock or something on the freeway. Both of them are a bit scraped up from gravel and rocks as you'd expect anyway.

Should I bother taking this to a body shop? Or maybe just fill it with a bit of body filler to keep water from getting in there? I feel like it's kind of pointless to repaint these since it's just going to get scraped up again given how low the car is.
 
Burren

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Palum said:
So on my car one of the plastic rocker covers/side skirts got a half inch long scrape/hole underneath from a rock or something on the freeway. Both of them are a bit scraped up from gravel and rocks as you'd expect anyway.

Should I bother taking this to a body shop? Or maybe just fill it with a bit of body filler to keep water from getting in there? I feel like it's kind of pointless to repaint these since it's just going to get scraped up again given how low the car is.
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Fill hole with epoxy and hit the area with sealant spray?
 
Burns

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Palum said:
So on my car one of the plastic rocker covers/side skirts got a half inch long scrape/hole underneath from a rock or something on the freeway. Both of them are a bit scraped up from gravel and rocks as you'd expect anyway.

Should I bother taking this to a body shop? Or maybe just fill it with a bit of body filler to keep water from getting in there? I feel like it's kind of pointless to repaint these since it's just going to get scraped up again given how low the car is.
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Without seeing it, it's hard to really have an opinion on the damage itself. If it was a small cut/puncture on the underside of my car, I probably wouldn't worry about it (since it's got a bunch of scrape marks under it already).

That said, I've taken the front clip off my car, and it wasn't tooooo difficult. Depending on the panel, it could be as little as 10 or so screws and maybe a few new specialty body clips (when you put it back on).

I think the proper repair would be to pull the panel off, then use some filler with a backing material to keep it in place, especially when its going to be taking some abuse, being under the car. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on doing body work. I also wouldn't worry about painting it unless you're looking to impress your mechanic, but if the repair is in heavy contrast and you think you will somehow see it, you could use a rattle can of plasti-dip, since it's 100% removable w/o marring.
 
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