Car ?'s

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Frenzied Wombat

Frenzied Wombat

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I had C-quartz applied to my whole car for like $700 and honestly I didn't notice it make a shit's difference. Bird poop for example would still etch the clear coat if left on for more than a few minutes in the sun.

If you want to protect your paint, get your whole hood and fenders wrapped edge to edge in paint protection film. Had that done to my previous ride, you couldn't even tell it was there, and dirt/bugs washes clean off. If you get any scratches in your film, just leave the car out in the baking sun for a few hours and the scratches disappear.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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If you are wrapping I would just do the entire car.

My fear on that is removal and what it would leave behind or do to the paint? and what is the long term ramifications of the "glue" after years and years and in the sun... bc, florida.
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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I'm with fred sanford fred sanford . Just get used to the idea that there's going to be scratches and shit on it. It's just a car, not a barometer of your self worth like so many people seem to think of their cars. It will haul your ass around just fine and no one but you is paying any attention to the paint job.
 
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Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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BrutulTM said:
I'm with fred sanford fred sanford . Just get used to the idea that there's going to be scratches and shit on it. It's just a car, not a barometer of your self worth like so many people seem to think of their cars. It will haul your ass around just fine and no one but you is paying any attention to the paint job.
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I drive a 2012 nissan leaf, my wife drives an Infiniti QX60

No gas, dumb thing is paid for, it gets me around town... I drive her car if I wanna be fansythebard

does the car reliably get you from A to B and back to A? and AC...i live in Florida, AC is a must...then, car objective complete :)

I love cars...and I often get into the "new shiny" mode...it is hard to keep this mentality... but it is worth it to do so.
 
LachiusTZ

LachiusTZ

Rogue Deathwalker Box
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Aevian said:
Picked up a new Honda Ridgeline recently. I've always had hand me downs and this is my first new car of my own. Because it's my first nice for me purchase, I do want to try to take decent care of it. I've kind of looked into some sort of paint protection film (Clear bra) or something like that along with maybe ceramic coating. I've got a vendor that will do it for $1500 that covers the full front side. Anyone have experience with this kind of stuff and have a recommendation on if its worth it or not? It's for a daily driver, 13 mile commute to work half highway, half city with occasional roadtrips on the weekend. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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Find a good gravel road in the middle of no where. Get going about 30, then yank the wheel to one side and go through whatever trees and bushes are there.

It's now scratched, and you won't be concerned about the next one
 
Borzak

Borzak

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Greystone metallic truck and I love it. The grey looks like dried mud and the metlalic flakes look like pine pollen when the pollen is falling massively. Instant camo lol. Friend has a truck that is red. He babies his truck and washes it once a week it seems. I don't baby mine, rarely wash it, drive it thru whatever including trees, brush etc.. He's always commenting on how my truck looks newer. It's just better at hiding crap. Possibly black being the worst color but red is not far behind for hiding scratches and dirt.

The old joke "Old man took a handfull of local dirt to the car dealer and said a color like this" lol. That's me.
 
mkopec

mkopec

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So the wife has a 2011 Jeep wrangler. Its pretty hooked up with 32" tires and wheels, new front and rear bumper, etc... SO anyways she was driving it a couple of weeks ago and she said she started smelling some burning shit and it felt like one of the wheels was seizing up.

So anyways, it got parked and me being a lazy motherfucker it sat there for a few weeks.(its our 3rd car) So finally I decided to take a look at it and it seems like its totally seized up now, wont even move.

Now we had problems with the parking break on this thing before, it would not come disengaged when you put down the parking break lever. So my thinking is that one of the drum parking breaks is seized up. The thing only has liek 60K miles on it and I just redid all of the disc breaks on it, but when doing that, I noticed that I could not take off the rear right drum break rotor. So my thinking its something fucked up there.

Waht do you guys think? I never did a complete rebuild of some drum breaks, is this shit hard?

BTW Jeeps are pieces of shit.
 
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Borzak

Borzak

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Easy if you have the tools. They make tools like the pry deal just for drum brakes. It's been a while since I've done them. The hardest part is if the drum is really worn is getting the drum off over the shoes. There's an adjuster you can turn with a screwdriver from the inside if you take the plug out that will unload the shoes and allow you to get the drum off and rotate it freely.

This is with the drum off obviously, but on the ones I've done you can turn it with a screwdriver from the inside while the drum is on. It's an adjuster and it's supposed to self adjust when you back up and stop. Loosen it and the drum/wheel should turn easily and allow you to get the drum off over the pads if it's really worn adjusted down tight over the pads.

Maybe not. Been a while. Most vehicles have had 4 wheel disc for a whle now. Even my 15 year old 1/2 ton truck has rear disc, but my 20 year old 3/4 ton has drum rear.

DSC01700.jpg
 
Noodleface

Noodleface

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My dumbass 2010 civic has rear drums. Can't wait to get rid of that car next year. Shouldn't complain as it's a tank
 
Fifey

Fifey

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Aevian said:
Picked up a new Honda Ridgeline recently. I've always had hand me downs and this is my first new car of my own. Because it's my first nice for me purchase, I do want to try to take decent care of it. I've kind of looked into some sort of paint protection film (Clear bra) or something like that along with maybe ceramic coating. I've got a vendor that will do it for $1500 that covers the full front side. Anyone have experience with this kind of stuff and have a recommendation on if its worth it or not? It's for a daily driver, 13 mile commute to work half highway, half city with occasional roadtrips on the weekend. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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Clear bras aren't bad and will save you from smaller rock chips and what not but after probably 5ish years of sun, itll start turning yellow and then you'll peel it off only to find out thay now your car is two tone cause the sun faded the paint but not the part that was mylar'd.

Also that paint protector shit the dealership sells you for 5-800 is a total sham. I used to have to do the installs on those and it amounts to just a really nice wax job.

Just drive your car, it'll be fine.
 
mkopec

mkopec

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The jeep has rear disc but it has drums for emergency break. Its fucking janky but Chrysler, go figure.
 
Frenzied Wombat

Frenzied Wombat

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The newer paint protection film doesn't yellow, nor damage the paint even after years. I had Xpel Ultimate on my previous ride for four years and it still looked great the day I traded in the car. It's not cheap though, I think I paid 1000 bucks to do the full hood and the front fenders. Imho the coolest thing about it is you could get a massive bird poop baked into it, wash it off, freak at the stain it left in the film, but if you leave your car to bake in the sun for a few hours the stain disappears..
 
Sludig

Sludig

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Talked about it in other car thread. But since I have an actual question shoving it in here.

Basically looking at reasonably cheap manual "fast/fun" cars. Didn't want anything too old I'd have to take in a lot as I'm not super mechanical but can do fairly minor things. By all means I'd love to get another GOLF R, or the civic type R. In a couple years wife may be getting the veloster N and I should just be content with that. But since there's a chance my dad might be wanting to buy my tundra (and in turn still be able to borrow it when I actually need it) Seems like a good excuse to start looking a bit. I'd go for those pricier options, but just kinda need to keep it conservative since 3/4 of the year I'm riding my kawasaki H2 which will always be insanely faster than the most expensive car I could afford.

Was looking at 370z's since I always liked them even if they are horrifically outdated on the inside (2019's look like 2009 no joke, gauge pod clock and ancient looking 90's era civic stereo). All that means is that they depreciate nicely and I like that the tech they do have is in nice area's. (I'm still newer at stick so the auto rev matching on down shifts is nice.)

Open to other idea's, but been eyeballing a supercharged one locally at a dealer. I need to visit and nail down exactly what all has been done to it. Denver Used Cars: All New & Used Car Listings for Colorado.

I'm not familiar with mods on 370's, so I'm trying to guess how easy to swap the exhaust back to the included original is. It's sold as a tow away due to not passing emissions but they claim oem exhaust will pass. Kinda doubt that a simple bolt on past the cats would make much of a difference, but then again from photo's it appears 370z cats are near the very end of the system so maybe it is a simple bolt on/off swap including the cats. Now if it's a full system including headers, I'm less inclined to get it and have to pay $$$ to swap headers to pass the first emmisions inspection to get plated. (easier after that using the highway on ramp sniffers)
 
lurker

lurker

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Sludig said:
...
I'm not familiar with mods on 370's, so I'm trying to guess how easy to swap the exhaust back to the included original is. It's sold as a tow away due to not passing emissions but they claim oem exhaust will pass. Kinda doubt that a simple bolt on past the cats would make much of a difference, but then again from photo's it appears 370z cats are near the very end of the system so maybe it is a simple bolt on/off swap including the cats. Now if it's a full system including headers, I'm less inclined to get it and have to pay $$$ to swap headers to pass the first emmisions inspection to get plated. (easier after that using the highway on ramp sniffers)
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They claim the OEM exhaust will pass. What if it doesn't? My advice is run away.
 
Burren

Burren

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Sludig said:
Talked about it in other car thread. But since I have an actual question shoving it in here.

Basically looking at reasonably cheap manual "fast/fun" cars. Didn't want anything too old I'd have to take in a lot as I'm not super mechanical but can do fairly minor things. By all means I'd love to get another GOLF R, or the civic type R. In a couple years wife may be getting the veloster N and I should just be content with that. But since there's a chance my dad might be wanting to buy my tundra (and in turn still be able to borrow it when I actually need it) Seems like a good excuse to start looking a bit. I'd go for those pricier options, but just kinda need to keep it conservative since 3/4 of the year I'm riding my kawasaki H2 which will always be insanely faster than the most expensive car I could afford.

Was looking at 370z's since I always liked them even if they are horrifically outdated on the inside (2019's look like 2009 no joke, gauge pod clock and ancient looking 90's era civic stereo). All that means is that they depreciate nicely and I like that the tech they do have is in nice area's. (I'm still newer at stick so the auto rev matching on down shifts is nice.)

Open to other idea's, but been eyeballing a supercharged one locally at a dealer. I need to visit and nail down exactly what all has been done to it. Denver Used Cars: All New & Used Car Listings for Colorado.

I'm not familiar with mods on 370's, so I'm trying to guess how easy to swap the exhaust back to the included original is. It's sold as a tow away due to not passing emissions but they claim oem exhaust will pass. Kinda doubt that a simple bolt on past the cats would make much of a difference, but then again from photo's it appears 370z cats are near the very end of the system so maybe it is a simple bolt on/off swap including the cats. Now if it's a full system including headers, I'm less inclined to get it and have to pay $$$ to swap headers to pass the first emmisions inspection to get plated. (easier after that using the highway on ramp sniffers)
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Get something stock, you'll thank me. People like to think its the same engine as the GTR - and thus good with boost - but its most definitely not the same.

Other manual fun cars: Vette, Mustang, Camaro, M3/M4, Boxster/Cayman, Supercharged F-Type, Focus RS, and more I can't think of this late at night.
 
Sludig

Sludig

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lurker said:
They claim the OEM exhaust will pass. What if it doesn't? My advice is run away.
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As long as its a matter of putting cats on and i clouded would be fine. I would probably planning on a fresh tune to make sure it's good afr for the altitude and probably make it a little more conservative since most with stillen tune on their stillen supers claim more like 450.

I am certainly leery but a already super or twin turbo appeals a lot because the stock car isn't all that fast at all.
 
Sludig

Sludig

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Burren said:
Get something stock, you'll thank me. People like to think its the same engine as the GTR - and thus good with boost - but its most definitely not the same.

Other manual fun cars: Vette, Mustang, Camaro, M3/M4, Boxster/Cayman, Supercharged F-Type, Focus RS, and more I can't think of this late at night.
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I'm trying to sweet talk my dad into that 2020 vette.

I agree with most of those, though mostly out of the price range I'm trying to work with. After loving my vw r32, I do want to try a gti in stick maybe. I'd love an Evo x but prices are absurd for clapped out ones locally.

Realistically may just have to be halt with wife slow but kinda fun car and revisit something exciting when im ready for a full priced replacement as opposed to a fun side piece.
 
lurker

lurker

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Sludig said:
As long as its a matter of putting cats on and i clouded would be fine. I would probably planning on a fresh tune to make sure it's good afr for the altitude and probably make it a little more conservative since most with stillen tune on their stillen supers claim more like 450.

I am certainly leery but a already super or twin turbo appeals a lot because the stock car isn't all that fast at all.
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I'm not doubting your ability to put the right parts on. I'm doubting their story. If they're so sure it will pass smog after installing the correct pipes, why don't they do it? I would think it would increase the value of the car more than the labor to perform the procedure. And what if they're lying to you about only needing a new exhaust or how would they even know? Is the car now going to be your problem to unload?

I don't know man. It looks shady.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

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Sludig said:
As long as its a matter of putting cats on and i clouded would be fine. I would probably planning on a fresh tune to make sure it's good afr for the altitude and probably make it a little more conservative since most with stillen tune on their stillen supers claim more like 450.

I am certainly leery but a already super or twin turbo appeals a lot because the stock car isn't all that fast at all.
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Go test drive a Fiesta ST. You can get those for around 9k used these days and still one of the most fun cars you can buy.
 
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