Car ?'s

Big_w_powah · Mar 13, 2018

Yeah. They tried to spout that line already. "The vehicle is being repaired to pre loss condition so there is no diminished value" "yes there is. A vehicle history report will show that it sustained frame damage. That will devalue it at the time of sell" "well we are in Texas you cant make a first party diminished value claim. That is Texas law." "Umm, yeah. No. My lawyer explained that one already. I cannot claim diminished value under a collision claim. However this is an uninsured motorist claim. That makes it so that I can regardless of repair" "this will be passed off to a Texas claims specialist. Expect a call in the morning"

My independent research shows frame damage showing up on a history report devalues a vehicle between 30 and 70 percent. Damage history at all devalues at an average of 30 percent. I am thinking of pushing for a quick settle of 40 percent of pre loss value in diminished value.

Big_w_powah · Mar 13, 2018

A5150Ylee said:
If there is frame damage and they are going to fix it and not replace it, make sure you start talking about your "diminished value" payout. If they just need to replace the broken parts, it's no big deal. When they need to start bending the car back into shape, you won't get shit for it when you go to sell it. So you need to get that difference in sale price now as part of the claim.

The bed was hit bad enough that it bent the connector bracked in such a severe manner it rolled the corner of the frame. They want to bend it back into place and I'm like "Fuck it'll never drive the same again"

I mean. Rolled it. Not only is the corner not squared, the right side sit visible lower than the left. A good 1 to 2 inches

I'm pissed they are acting like its basically a non factor. Fuck you. Its a factor.

A5150Ylee · Mar 13, 2018

Big_w_powah said:
The bed was hit bad enough that it bent the connector bracked in such a severe manner it rolled the corner of the frame. They want to bend it back into place and I'm like "Fuck it'll never drive the same again"

I mean. Rolled it. Not only is the corner not squared, the right side sit visible lower than the left. A good 1 to 2 inches

I'm pissed they are acting like its basically a non factor. Fuck you. Its a factor.

Then flat out tell them you want it replaced and not fixed. If they say they won't do that, then tell them you will never accept the repairs as satisfactory. Your insurance company is supposed to work for you, and you should remind them of that. If they don't want to play ball, get an attorney in the mix. The initial consultation is usually free and a letter from a lawyer will make a lot of people stop fucking around.

I was T-boned on my motorcycle by a driver who ran a red light while on his cell phone. Had to go to the hospital and they totaled the bike. I was going to be the nice guy and not lawyer up and sue people. But at my first meeting with his insurance people, they REALLY pissed me off with what little they offered and blamed me for the accident. I told them to fuck themselves, walked out, and got an attorney. I didn't want to rake them over the coals, but they settled quickly and for 5 times their initial offer. After attorney fees, I still got a little cash for pain and suffering, all my medical, and enough to buy a legit replacement bike.

EVERYTHING with insurance payouts is a business negotiation. If you feel you are getting screwed, grab an ambulance chaser and make it clear that they get a percentage beyond your costs (the attorney fee is negotiable too, I got my guy down from the 'standard' 33% to 25% after medical costs).

Just don't sign anything until you are satisfied. The insurance people just want to close their case load as fast as they can. If you make it clear you'r not gonna get pushed around, they will spend a little time and actually work on your case.

Big_w_powah · Mar 14, 2018

Where I sit is that the truck is a utilitarian vehicle. If fixed properly it will still haul shit. I'm good with it just getting fixed right.

But the fact that it's going to be an effectively worthless vehicle after this pisses me off. I intend to fight all day long on this diminished value claim.

The truck was worth about 10500 before according to kbb. I think a check for 4500-5000 is satisfactory to cover my loss of value.

Big_w_powah · Mar 15, 2018

Didnt have to fight much at all. I basically mentioned they could do it nicely, or I would call a lawyer.

They bent over.

error · Mar 15, 2018

Minor thing, but trying to figure out how to best handle it. I'm driving my first leased vehicle (probably not leasing again) and the rear brakes started squeelin/grinding a bit, mostly as I pressed the brake, but continued after. Noise coming from the driver side. I take it to the dealer and have them check, thinking stuck caliper as it only has 27k miles on the car. They have the mechanic look and says that the rear pads are worn to 2/10 and need to be replaced and they'd turn the rotors, for - $275. Fuck that noise, I can get the parts myself and put them on for $100 with new rotors.

So I do it, but in the process, two things happened. First, the inside pad on the driver side was indeed 2/10, but the outside pad was 6/10 and when I pulled the passenger side they were both 6/10 ... now that seems about right for the mileage. Second, the pads I got from Amazon were cheap pieces of shit with shitty shims that barely fit.

Well now, since the original problem wasn't fixed and / or the shitty shims, my brakes are dragging a bit in the rear, mostly just an annoyance with brake smell / dust ... although, I am a little concerned that any prolonged 80mph driving on 95 could result in a fire.... but, aaanyway...

What to do? Go bitch and the dealer with the old pads as proof considering I now have a pair of shitty pads on it? Replace the shitty pads but possibly still have the original issue? I think it make actually be related to the emergency brake cable, but I haven't done any troubleshooting... tbh, I just want to make it until Feb 2019 and get a different car, so the least amount of time and money involved while remaining safe is the best bet.

Alasliasolonik · Mar 15, 2018

error said:
Minor thing, but trying to figure out how to best handle it. I'm driving my first leased vehicle (probably not leasing again) and the rear brakes started squeelin/grinding a bit, mostly as I pressed the brake, but continued after. Noise coming from the driver side. I take it to the dealer and have them check, thinking stuck caliper as it only has 27k miles on the car. They have the mechanic look and says that the rear pads are worn to 2/10 and need to be replaced and they'd turn the rotors, for - $275. Fuck that noise, I can get the parts myself and put them on for $100 with new rotors.

So I do it, but in the process, two things happened. First, the inside pad on the driver side was indeed 2/10, but the outside pad was 6/10 and when I pulled the passenger side they were both 6/10 ... now that seems about right for the mileage. Second, the pads I got from Amazon were cheap pieces of shit with shitty shims that barely fit.

Well now, since the original problem wasn't fixed and / or the shitty shims, my brakes are dragging a bit in the rear, mostly just an annoyance with brake smell / dust ... although, I am a little concerned that any prolonged 80mph driving on 95 could result in a fire.... but, aaanyway...

What to do? Go bitch and the dealer with the old pads as proof considering I now have a pair of shitty pads on it? Replace the shitty pads but possibly still have the original issue? I think it make actually be related to the emergency brake cable, but I haven't done any troubleshooting... tbh, I just want to make it until Feb 2019 and get a different car, so the least amount of time and money involved while remaining safe is the best bet.

Just a wild guess but is this a volvo? What sort of car/suv do you have? What year of car and stuff.

error · Mar 15, 2018

2016 Mazda 3 sgt (2.5) hatchback, which other than this minor blip has been a great car to drive. I just don't think it's worth the money to lease unless I made get base model boredom for any vehicle.

You have to understand that the previous car I had for 15years was a 01' Golf TDI that had 275k and I sold for 3.5k; loved that car.... still waiting on a reasonably priced 6-cyl diesel SUV/Truck that gets 35MPG to make mine and no the new Jeep truck won't be reasonably priced.

A5150Ylee · Mar 16, 2018

error said:
2016 Mazda 3 sgt (2.5) hatchback, which other than this minor blip has been a great car to drive. I just don't think it's worth the money to lease unless I made get base model boredom for any vehicle.

You have to understand that the previous car I had for 15years was a 01' Golf TDI that had 275k and I sold for 3.5k; loved that car.... still waiting on a reasonably priced 6-cyl diesel SUV/Truck that gets 35MPG to make mine and no the new Jeep truck won't be reasonably priced.

Rear brake wear without front wear is weird. Most modern cars will wear a front brake before the rear is half done. This could be a bad air bleed or maybe a bad emergency brake adjustment. Fix it yourself if you are trading in the lease. A lease doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to be serviceable.

Your best bet on a car if you buy new, is get something you can drive the wheels off. Most cars today can go 200k miles without a problem. The best value is to buy a used car about 3 years old with high mileage. You get max depreciation with a car that usually will last several more years. I'm amazed at how many people still think that a modern car will last about 80k to 100k miles before it's trash. If you can find a 80k mileage on a 3 year car, you can ride that thing for cheap for the next 5 years.

error · Mar 16, 2018

I'd rather buy after they've had (with documentation) a timing belt change. Other than that, I totally agree. I'm fine with a car that has over 100k. I'll do a bit of troubleshooting this weekend hopefully.

Fifey · Mar 17, 2018

Big_w_powah said:
The bed was hit bad enough that it bent the connector bracked in such a severe manner it rolled the corner of the frame. They want to bend it back into place and I'm like "Fuck it'll never drive the same again"

I mean. Rolled it. Not only is the corner not squared, the right side sit visible lower than the left. A good 1 to 2 inches

I'm pissed they are acting like its basically a non factor. Fuck you. Its a factor.

I've done auto body for 10 years, you're truck will be fine. Your bumper has reinforcements that slide into the box frame and when it gets hit it bends it down and super common. The only time your trucks frame will ever be fucked and drive differently is if it's diamonded or bent in a spot past the axles which usually is a total in newer frames since they are hydroformed and unable to be heated.

Also Geico and Progressive are the most garbage insurance companies you can have, they will try to get you to the Geico rd program or whatever the progressive one is called and places such a stress on repair shops, it causes absolutely terrible repairs. They will blend within panels, use aftermarket parts, claim parts aren't needed, etc etc all while expecting the shop to adhere to very strict and rigid in and out timelines. Oh that part is on backorder for 2 weeks? Well I guess it's now a repairable item because we won't get assigned a new work order till the car has left, kind of shit.

Big_w_powah · Mar 17, 2018

Fifey said:
I've done auto body for 10 years, you're truck will be fine. Your bumper has reinforcements that slide into the box frame and when it gets hit it bends it down and super common. The only time your trucks frame will ever be fucked and drive differently is if it's diamonded or bent in a spot past the axles which usually is a total in newer frames since they are hydroformed and unable to be heated.

Also Geico and Progressive are the most garbage insurance companies you can have, they will try to get you to the Geico rd program or whatever the progressive one is called and places such a stress on repair shops, it causes absolutely terrible repairs. They will blend within panels, use aftermarket parts, claim parts aren't needed, etc etc all while expecting the shop to adhere to very strict and rigid in and out timelines. Oh that part is on backorder for 2 weeks? Well I guess it's now a repairable item because we won't get assigned a new work order till the car has left, kind of shit.

I feel decent about progressive. I mentioned I was gonna call a lawyer right out of the gate on my diminished value claim. They offered 9k right after on a truck that blue booked for 10.5k

I didnt even get to say.my number (which would have been 5k)

A5150Ylee · Mar 17, 2018

Big_w_powah said:
I feel decent about progressive. I mentioned I was gonna call a lawyer right out of the gate on my diminished value claim. They offered 9k right after on a truck that blue booked for 10.5k

I didnt even get to say.my number (which would have been 5k)

That's great man. Take the 9k and know that even if you just burn the truck to the ground in a ditch after a few years of use, it only cost you $1.5k for a few years. Not bad.

Sell it for 4 or 5k and make a few bucks over the life of it.

DirkDonkeyroot · Mar 18, 2018

error said:
2016 Mazda 3 sgt (2.5) hatchback, which other than this minor blip has been a great car to drive. I just don't think it's worth the money to lease unless I made get base model boredom for any vehicle.

You have to understand that the previous car I had for 15years was a 01' Golf TDI that had 275k and I sold for 3.5k; loved that car.... still waiting on a reasonably priced 6-cyl diesel SUV/Truck that gets 35MPG to make mine and no the new Jeep truck won't be reasonably priced.

Check the parking brake cable, it may need to be adjusted. Would cause the issues you're having.

Seananigans · Jun 28, 2018

I finalized my config order on my Tesla Model 3 today, so I look forward to telling you guys all about the times I die from spontaneous battery explosions that apparently happen daily! Stay tuned.

Springbok · Jun 28, 2018

Congrats, I’m sure they’ll have explosions figured out by the time you get it in 2025

Seananigans · Jun 29, 2018

Springbok said:
Congrats, I’m sure they’ll have explosions figured out by the time you get it in 2025

This joke might be a couple years old, or at least the second half. Personally I'm hoping they don't figure out the explosions so I don't have to get anything extra before I'm able to Aloha Snackbar into anything I want.

Hoss · Jul 2, 2018

Cutlery said:
Not so much a question, but a brag.

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with 189k miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the rear axle started just roaring, I figured the differential probably went out on it. Brought it to my local shop, they call me back and say "Yep, pinion bearing broken. We're gonna order the rebuild kit for it, and also redo the axle bearings just in case there's anything still floating around in there. It's under warranty of course, so we'll give you a call when it's done."

Lifetime powertrain warranty on '04 Rams. They don't do that anymore. I wonder why

View attachment 161918

Kind of an old post but since you were just braggin anyway, it's not exactly time sensitive. When did they start offering the lifetime power train warranty? I have an 01 with 500k miles. If they offered it I know I would have bought it. Would be awesome to find out I still have some sort of warranty on the ole girl.

Lanx · Jul 3, 2018

bought a hose and r134a to recharge the AC, all i know is look for "L" and avoid "H".

a c i d.f l y · Jul 3, 2018

A5150Ylee said:
Rear brake wear without front wear is weird. Most modern cars will wear a front brake before the rear is half done. This could be a bad air bleed or maybe a bad emergency brake adjustment. Fix it yourself if you are trading in the lease. A lease doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to be serviceable.

Your best bet on a car if you buy new, is get something you can drive the wheels off. Most cars today can go 200k miles without a problem. The best value is to buy a used car about 3 years old with high mileage. You get max depreciation with a car that usually will last several more years. I'm amazed at how many people still think that a modern car will last about 80k to 100k miles before it's trash. If you can find a 80k mileage on a 3 year car, you can ride that thing for cheap for the next 5 years.

Definitely sounds like a parking brake adjustment or improperly lubricated rear brakes. Burned through a couple pairs of rear pads until I realized the rear cable was tortioned to the max (probably from the previous owner in order to pass inspection for the parking brake). Also, if the contact points aren't greased properly, the pad can get stuck and burn out in a couple hundred miles. Moral of my story, don't trust shoddy brake shops. Never had issues when I've done the work myself. Or paid out the ass for a proper shop.

I've historically not bought a vehicle with less than 100k on it, that I've purchased it outright, and spent maybe $2k/yr in upkeep/repair at max, which is substantially less than the $5k I'm paying for my new vehicle, but if shit breaks I'm not out a random $500-1000+ part plus labor with free rental. Priority and time opportunity to fix it myself has shifted.

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