ShakyJake
<Donor>
- 7,913
- 19,957
No, it's definitely rough. I guess something got on the paint that damaged the clear coat. I just have no idea what since the car is not around anything like that.
Car ?'s
- Thread starter BeardedWonder
- Start date
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Frenzied Wombat
Potato del Grande
- 14,730
- 31,803
Is it just in that one place or elsewhere?
EDIT: It doesn't look like any solvent or contaminant damage I've ever seen. Bird shit and tree sap if left on too long will create a shadowy etch in the paint, while solvents will fog up and dull the clear coat, but I have never seen anything that will introduce that type of raised pattern. Even if you pour acetone on your car it doesn't actually melt the paint like that. I would just take it in and say "wtf is this" and let them try and tell you what it is. Burden of proof is on them. If they claim it was a solvent, then they should be able to recreate the issue with that solvent.
- 1
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 65,362
- 147,469
i few firsts for me these past weekends.
steering fluid flush, not difficult at all, turkey baster most of it out and unhook the return hose to a pan and turn the wheel a few times.
brake fluid flush, again turkey baster, also not bad, put a bit of tubing in a water bottle and pump the brakes to bleed each one.
Changed the front brakes on the civic, they were actually really still good, but the attaching hardware was so rusted it actually broke apart when i removed the caliper.
along w/ that i noticed one of the tires was down to the metal, oops. decided, to try to take it off the hub myself. Amazingly discounttires has free shipping, they just slap the label on the tire and ups gives you a tire at your door, pretty cool.
i broke the tire beed by using this method
then with soapy water and a few pry bars it came off pretty easily, putting it back on was about the same.
i tried to "light" the tire from the inside with starting fluid, to fill the bead, but i just couldn't do it, ended up just filling the tire w/o the valve to make it "pop", waited a day and no leaks and good to go, and drive at 80, no shaking, so don't even have to balance. (even tho i bought some weights)
This weekend i'll try to change the front/rear diff fluid, i had to wait on a new fill bolt sent, cuz the current one looks pretty ragged and i doubt it'll fit in the same when i take it out.
steering fluid flush, not difficult at all, turkey baster most of it out and unhook the return hose to a pan and turn the wheel a few times.
brake fluid flush, again turkey baster, also not bad, put a bit of tubing in a water bottle and pump the brakes to bleed each one.
Changed the front brakes on the civic, they were actually really still good, but the attaching hardware was so rusted it actually broke apart when i removed the caliper.
along w/ that i noticed one of the tires was down to the metal, oops. decided, to try to take it off the hub myself. Amazingly discounttires has free shipping, they just slap the label on the tire and ups gives you a tire at your door, pretty cool.
i broke the tire beed by using this method
then with soapy water and a few pry bars it came off pretty easily, putting it back on was about the same.
i tried to "light" the tire from the inside with starting fluid, to fill the bead, but i just couldn't do it, ended up just filling the tire w/o the valve to make it "pop", waited a day and no leaks and good to go, and drive at 80, no shaking, so don't even have to balance. (even tho i bought some weights)
This weekend i'll try to change the front/rear diff fluid, i had to wait on a new fill bolt sent, cuz the current one looks pretty ragged and i doubt it'll fit in the same when i take it out.
- 1
Hekotat
FoH nuclear response team
- 12,246
- 11,901
After doing tires on a machine at Ford, there is no way in hell I will ever do them at home. 90% of the time they go on easy, it's the bastard ones that just don't want to come off/go on that will make you rage. I just can't imagine doing it without the machine.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 65,362
- 147,469
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 65,362
- 147,469
good lord i have no idea why it takes 2 weeks to get a 3$ drain plug, and my subaru dealership 15mins away doesn't have it in stock, and no way am i gonna travel 40miles to the next one to pick one up.
now i'll finally get to change both f/r diffs (i wanted to save the change of both diffs either right after the other or at least a day apart, not weeks, for easy book keeping)
btw, how do ppl keep track of their stuff? i used to keep my info(oil change date/etc) in a memo pad in the glove box. Now i just hang a few sheets of paper on my garage door, i just print out the maintenance sched and put it on the door (specific to each car), i know this isn't going to work when we get a third car, suv. (or just sell, junk the old 2002 civic, it runs perfectly fine at 130k, just seems like a waste)
now i'll finally get to change both f/r diffs (i wanted to save the change of both diffs either right after the other or at least a day apart, not weeks, for easy book keeping)
btw, how do ppl keep track of their stuff? i used to keep my info(oil change date/etc) in a memo pad in the glove box. Now i just hang a few sheets of paper on my garage door, i just print out the maintenance sched and put it on the door (specific to each car), i know this isn't going to work when we get a third car, suv. (or just sell, junk the old 2002 civic, it runs perfectly fine at 130k, just seems like a waste)
Hekotat
FoH nuclear response team
- 12,246
- 11,901
There are apps now but you have to pay to get the features you want. The bad thing about an app is you can't transfer that to a new owner if you ever plan to sell. Having a physical pad/folder/whatever to hand off to someone or show them is really assuring when selling a vehicle. Gearheads will appreciate it and non-gearheads will be blown away that you even took the time to do it.
I personally don't keep receipts, it's just too much hassle. I write down mileage, what I did and date. However, I keep receipts for really expensive shit, wheels, suspension etc. Insurance companies will absolutely destroy you if you your car get's totaled. If I wouldn't have had the receipts for the JDM front clip, paint and body work on the Integra I would have been out about 7k.
- 1
Fifey
Trakanon Raider
- 2,898
- 962
Cars get crashed and repainted before they ever get off the lot sometimes, to me it looks like the bumper has been repaired and the bondo or primer underneath wasnt cured properly and its cracking from under the paint.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
- 11,883
- 17,842
Maybe just Toyota...but
My Dad was getitng his new van, the dude pulled it up - and as he lead my dad out to show it to him some guy backed into it and put a dent and scrape in it. So they got him another, but he was like "what are you doing with that one?" he said they will fix it and sell it as used or manager special but not new...
My Dad was getitng his new van, the dude pulled it up - and as he lead my dad out to show it to him some guy backed into it and put a dent and scrape in it. So they got him another, but he was like "what are you doing with that one?" he said they will fix it and sell it as used or manager special but not new...
Punko
Macho Ma'am
- 8,006
- 12,832
Really?
I mean it seems as if its a cheap part, you don't want to pay a premium to have it transported fast, and you don't want to pick it up yourself?
How could anyone imagine the dealership not giving a shit, while you obviously don't yourself?
Fifey
Trakanon Raider
- 2,898
- 962
Big_w_powah
Trakanon Raider
- 1,887
- 750
Kuriin
Just a Nurse
- 4,046
- 1,020
Gave my Tesla to my hubby since he commutes only 15 miles to my 100 miles. Having to worry about getting my parking spot to charge was often too stressful. Thinking about getting a Honda Accord Hybrid -- does anyone have one of them? I had one of the original civic hybrids and loved it.
taebin
Same trailer, different park
- 973
- 450
Hey Kuriin, I have one. 2014, bought it new. On highways doing 65/70, it gets about 50 mpg. If you push it up to 75-85, mpg will drop back down to 40. City streets and red lights, a lot of stopping and going, probably 38-45 mpg. Pretty sick to go 700+ miles on a single tank of gas. Went from Dallas to Florida Keys and filled up 3x's.
Doesn't have a normal transmission, CVT. Weird at first but you'll get used to it. Can accelerate pretty fast if needed (not Tesla fast, but decent). Haven't had any major issues at all. The original tires wore through faster than they should have, but not a big deal. Not sure what all maintenance will be required when battery starts going out or needing to be replaced. Haven't crossed that bridge yet.
Doesn't have a normal transmission, CVT. Weird at first but you'll get used to it. Can accelerate pretty fast if needed (not Tesla fast, but decent). Haven't had any major issues at all. The original tires wore through faster than they should have, but not a big deal. Not sure what all maintenance will be required when battery starts going out or needing to be replaced. Haven't crossed that bridge yet.
BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
- 14,672
- 2,530
The starting fluid trick is scary, but when it works it's fucking awesome, like "I just fixed my car using a bomb!". You want to light it using a propane torch with a nice long wand on it though, or by throwing matches. My uncle tried to do one with a cigarette lighter and burned the shit out of his hand.
I'm with Hekotat though, mounting and balancing cost like $15. Not worth the time and effort to do yourself unless you can't get to a shop for some reason.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 65,362
- 147,469
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
- 65,362
- 147,469
So stuck differential plug, or probably seized, wow.
over a few weeks i tried
heating up the nut, this was the scariest option for me, cuz i'm right underneath the car.
penetrating oils
1. pb blaster
2. liquid wrench
3. wd40
4. wax + heat (heat the nut and hold a candle next to it, the threads will "suck" in the wax)
5. ppl swore by brake fluid + atf fluid 50/50 mix
yes i have a real breaker bar (not just a ratcheting wrench), and i have a long cheater extension for it too (just a lead pipe that fit)
Then i tried having the breaker bar on the plug and putting the jack underneath it to push it counter clockwise, this is ultimately what "stripped" the plug.
So w/ the plug stripped i had 3 options left,
1. weld a nut onto the stripped plug, usually ppl say the intense heat from welding is also what breaks the plug, however i have no idea how to weld or anything.
2. drill it out with one of those extractor sets
3. chisel it out
I went with option 3, i chisel'd out a slot, then with a screw driver once i made a nice enough slot and just kept on hammering away. this still wasn't doing much, next i tried to use a "cold chisel" instead of a screw driver where the screw driver has a molded plastic handle and maybe absorbing the force and a cold chisel is just a long piece of iron.
ultimately what i believe worked was the "shock" method heating up the plug for an uncomfortable 2mins then putting a huge ass ice cube right on it. (my ice cubes are 1in in size) then using the cold chisel with tappy taps instead of hulk smash, after a min it moved.
over a few weeks i tried
heating up the nut, this was the scariest option for me, cuz i'm right underneath the car.
penetrating oils
1. pb blaster
2. liquid wrench
3. wd40
4. wax + heat (heat the nut and hold a candle next to it, the threads will "suck" in the wax)
5. ppl swore by brake fluid + atf fluid 50/50 mix
yes i have a real breaker bar (not just a ratcheting wrench), and i have a long cheater extension for it too (just a lead pipe that fit)
Then i tried having the breaker bar on the plug and putting the jack underneath it to push it counter clockwise, this is ultimately what "stripped" the plug.
So w/ the plug stripped i had 3 options left,
1. weld a nut onto the stripped plug, usually ppl say the intense heat from welding is also what breaks the plug, however i have no idea how to weld or anything.
2. drill it out with one of those extractor sets
3. chisel it out
I went with option 3, i chisel'd out a slot, then with a screw driver once i made a nice enough slot and just kept on hammering away. this still wasn't doing much, next i tried to use a "cold chisel" instead of a screw driver where the screw driver has a molded plastic handle and maybe absorbing the force and a cold chisel is just a long piece of iron.
ultimately what i believe worked was the "shock" method heating up the plug for an uncomfortable 2mins then putting a huge ass ice cube right on it. (my ice cubes are 1in in size) then using the cold chisel with tappy taps instead of hulk smash, after a min it moved.
- 2
DirkDonkeyroot
Blackwing Lair Raider
- 878
- 1,444
Make sure it wasnt cross threaded by some lube monkey that did the last service on it. I saw a diff plug that got started wrong and just impact wrenched when it refused to hand thread anymore.
- 1
