Desktop Computers

yeah. needing 7 years to to make up the diff, is a bit much.

smart move will probably be to switch to cheaper one.
good call.

Synj_sl said:

Fractal R5 is a nice case, easy to work on and I like the minimalist design, it's also very quiet, I hear nothing. It's a pretty big case though, just FYI. I also picked up this glass monitor stand from Monoprice to keep it off the floor. It's cheap, looks nice, good quality, and is a perfect fit for the R5.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_i...FUZrfgodfHoPhQ

How did you get the SSD for $160? Showing $250 on sale online?

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It was during prime day and best buy price matched amazon.

Any suggestions on a non-overclocked motherboard to go with the I5-6600? (I've always avoided overclocked rigs, unknown why)

Perhaps you should embrace the K (and your balls).

Leadsalad_sl said:

Perhaps you should embrace the K (and your balls).

Click to expand...

I actually did, went I5-6600k and Z170A Gaming M5 motherboard. Didn't like any of the cases at the micro center unfortunately.

Well then, I apologize.

They didn't have any Corsair or Fractal cases? (I don't know, I don't have a Microcenter near me anymore )

I have the M5 motherboard, liking it so far.

They did have the Fractal R5 and a bunch of corsair cases. This will be my first time building my own PC so I think that's why I can't make up my mind regarding the case, don't really know what to look for in regards to cable management etc. Honestly some of those cases are super fucking ugly too, hah.

A lot of them are "gamer-y". There are some more basic black ones though.1,2,3,4.

Leadsalad_sl said:

A lot of them are "gamer-y". There are some more basic black ones though.1,2,3,4.

Click to expand...

#3 is a winner for me, nice one.

PCPartPicker part list:Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0, 330R Titanium Edition ATX Mid Tower - System Build - PCPartPicker
Price breakdown by merchant:Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0, 330R Titanium Edition ATX Mid Tower - System Build - Price Breakdown By Merchant - PCPartPicker

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.95 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($234.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($439.99 @ B&H)
Case: Corsair 330R Titanium Edition ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($87.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($21.55 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1478.21

this is where i'm at right now build wise... RAM, Power Supply, and hard drive have not been bought yet, so not too late to change them if needed.

I'd say increase your memory's speed to 2800 or 3000 if possible.

I've got no idea on the SSD, I've got Samsungs myself and I had an Intel 160gb but apparently it bit the dust after 3-ish years so I don't even know what to think anymore.

Check with how many fans the case comes with, you might want to buy an extra 1 or 2 120mm or 140mm (if it supports them).

Otherwise, looks good.

Leadsalad_sl said:

I'd say increase your memory's speed to 2800 or 3000 if possible.

I've got no idea on the SSD, I've got Samsungs myself and I had an Intel 160gb but apparently it bit the dust after 3-ish years so I don't even know what to think anymore.

Check with how many fans the case comes with, you might want to buy an extra 1 or 2 120mm or 140mm (if it supports them).

Otherwise, looks good.

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Agreed on the RAM, mainly just because you can basically get 2800 for the same price as 2400...so why not? I don't know that I would bother paying a premium to go up to 3000 or 3200, as of right now there's zero performance difference in gaming, but if you can get 2800 for the same price as 2400, its a no-brainer.

Also agree on Samsung SSDs. I recommend them to everyone I know and Its the only brand I've purchased in the last 2-3 years. I have 3 Samsung SSds in my gaming PC, one in my laptop, I put one in my parents laptop, etc. Great drives and worth the couple extra bucks over other brands. There's a few things in a build I'll never go cheap on, PSUs and hard drives are at the top of that list, because they are a PAIN in the ass if they fail, or start failing. I want stability and long-term reliability out of both, and Samsung SSDs fit that bill the best. They're about the only brand of SSD that doesn't have any questionable models. Other SSDs might have some great model lines, and some below average model lines, and it takes careful research to determine which is which. With Samsung, everything they make is great, it's an easy decision, you can't go wrong.

Anyone have thoughts on lifespans?

I was double checking my order history to confirm age of parts in my old pc, and when I built it.
8/2012

I thought I added the SSD later, but seems not. 4 year old SSD. Should I recycle this as the scratch disk as planned, or think its lifespan is in question, and probably shouldn't. As a scratch disk, its data is temp, and not important.
Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more - Newegg.com

and, for giggles, 10/09 Radeon HD 4890 was the vid card before the 8/12 geforce560ti
4/08 for the DVD burner I said was dying and needed to be replaced in this new pc. haha.

If it's 4 years old I would start to get a little concerned about it's life, but if it's a scratch disk it's fine.

Caliane_sl said:

Anyone have thoughts on lifespans?

I was double checking my order history to confirm age of parts in my old pc, and when I built it.
8/2012

I thought I added the SSD later, but seems not. 4 year old SSD. Should I recycle this as the scratch disk as planned, or think its lifespan is in question, and probably shouldn't. As a scratch disk, its data is temp, and not important.
Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more - Newegg.com

and, for giggles, 10/09 Radeon HD 4890 was the vid card before the 8/12 geforce560ti
4/08 for the DVD burner I said was dying and needed to be replaced in this new pc. haha.

Click to expand...

Your Samsung 830 SSD isn't going to die anytime soon for any reason other than an actual defect in the product, and I'd say if you're 4 years in, it probably doesn't have any defects. SSDs do eventually "wear out" through usage, but the usage they can go through is more than the average home user will ever do.

In this testing:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...e-25nm-Vs-34nm

The Samsung 830 256GB made it to almost 5PB. This would mean that if you write over 1TB per day it would still last for more than 10 years. So basically, you'd have to completely fill, delete, and re-fill that drive 8 times per day for 10 years for it to fail.

You're good

And just FYI, keeping an SSD nearly full for long periods of time can reduce the lifespan on it as well. Think about it this way, say you have a 100GB drive, and we'll arbitrarily say that the 100GB drive can be completely filled and erased and refilled 100,000 times before it dies. You obviously aren't writing that much to it every day, it'll last a LONG time. However, let's say you have 99GB full with only 1GB free. That free 1GB might have to be written and re-written repeatedly every day as programs cache to the drive while running, your OS does the same, etc. Now all of a sudden that 1GB may last 100,000 re-writes, but it's being re-written 100 times a day. That 1GB sector is going to fail in about 1000 days at that rate(less than 3 years)

So its very, very important to keep SSDs from being close to full(I generally try to keep mine at no more than 50% full at any time but realistically as long as you stay under like 90-95% you won't see a significant life expectancy shortage) as the fuller it is, the more you are shortening the life of the drive. Those full portions of the drive may never fail since they aren't being written to very often, but if the same small empty area is used constantly, it'll expire faster.

Hope that makes sense.

So how many fans do I need for the Carbide 330R? I'm using the 212 corsair evo for the CPU, looks like the case comes with one rear 120mm fan.

[H] WINDOWS 10, PRO, ENTERPRISE Windows 7/8.1 Pro | Office 2016, 2013, 2010 Pro. 5?~Debit and credit Transactions!?~(I accept debit, credit card, Amazon E-Card, BTC,and Venmo..and Paypal) PSA::: July 29th is the last for free Win10 Upgrade : microsoftsoftwareswap

Also are these software keys via reddit mostly legit?

On that note...

The remainder of my new build is arriving tomorrow (2x EVGA 1080 FTW waiting to be installed, sitting in my old machine for the time being), and I'm finally going to bite the bullet and get off of my (admittedly non-legit) Windows 7. What's the best way to purchase Windows 10 Pro 64-bit that won't bite me in the ass down the line? If I get an OEM key is it too much hassle if I have to swap a piece of hardware?

Until july 29th