Desktop Computers

Lanx said:

i'd just go for WD anything tbh

30years of storage, aside my from $1 per megabyte Maxtor 500mb hard drive from 96, everything but WD has had some kind of failure or they were gonna die cuz SMART was saying it was going to.

i've taken apart (after erasing to destroy with a hammer) all my hitachi/seagate (i think there was probably a toshiba in there somewhere) drives. i used to just keep and carry all my hard drives with me but they get heavy after a few failures start piling up, so take apart and destroy. i was being "chic" for a while and using the platters as coasters, but they're really worthless and after a kid had a drink slide off one, i went and destroyed em again. I keep the magnet on the drives tho, super strong rare earth mag.

*edit, fucking samsung made drives too? have one in my "pile to smash"

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If I don't feel like getting some kind of NAS solution, can I just throw a couple WD Red's in my desktop, and use those as my Plex server, and be fine? Or should I go with WD Blue's? Does it matter? Setting up Slickdeal alerts now for Black Friday so I can upgrade my storage.

Thoughts and tweaks for 1080p current gaming? Upgrading from a Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor and a 970 GPU
This is what I got based on advice:

sleevedraw said:

Do you have a good reason for the 3700x? In other words, do you video stream concurrently while playing games or do video editing? If not, the 3600 (or X, if it's only $10-$20 more than the 3600) is fine for gaming.

You can use the saved money for a better cooler. The hope is that once AMD pushes their huge November microcode update, that PBO/automated overclocking will finally work as intended.

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Daughter and I do video editing yes. Open to better cooler, nothing water though.

Not going to get much use of an above stock cooler with that motherboard, fwiw 3700x with the included wraith maxes out at low 70s C if your case has reasonable air flow. 16gb is probably the right amount since software's always going to expect more as time goes on. Consider either 3200 cl16 or 3600 cl16 ram.

Lanx said:

It is the year 2028 "yo dudes what do you think of my next build?

Cooler Master Hyper 212???


sure

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Man I don't know, my current one is about the same and works well enough. What you got for me?

Axiel said:

Not going to get much use of an above stock cooler with that motherboard, fwiw 3700x with the included wraith maxes out at low 70s C if your case has reasonable air flow. 16gb is probably the right amount since software's always going to expect more as time goes on. Consider either 3200 cl16 or 3600 cl16 ram.

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Which MB should I get? I fucked myself hard last time choosing the wrong one.

brekk said:

Whether you go Intel or AMD, you should really look into VRM hierarchy charts for your chipset. If you plan on overclocking it's a extremely important. Even if kept stock a better VRM will be less stressed and last longer.

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Good info but old, that said did some looking based on upgraded versions of the good ones and X570 Asrock Taichi seems to be the one to get.

Hatorade said:

Good info but old, that said did some looking based on upgraded versions of the good ones and X570 Asrock Taichi seems to be the one to get.

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This is what I mean by deals that look good but aren't quite what I'm looking for. I'm probably gonna end up paying full price even with Black Friday deals because they aren't the exact models I want.

What wattage PSU do I realistically need for a modern gaming PC?

And is there any real difference between 16gb ram and 32gb ram for gaming?

Hatorade said:

Which MB should I get? I fucked myself hard last time choosing the wrong one.

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I have a Gigabyte Aorus Elite. It has a solid build quality. Excellent stable BIOS. Zero problems with the new Ryzen. Take a look at their entire line and pick one that has the features you want.

Brikker said:

What wattage PSU do I realistically need for a modern gaming PC?

And is there any real difference between 16gb ram and 32gb ram for gaming?

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650 and 16

Hatorade said:

Thoughts and tweaks for 1080p current gaming? Upgrading from a Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor and a 970 GPU
This is what I got based on advice:

System Builder

pcpartpicker.com

View attachment 227619

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I had an MSI...it died and was kind of cheapo. It was a base board, though. My basic Gigabyte has much better build quality and a solid BIOS. You want 3200 MHz DDR4 ram. I've been using Crucial and GSkill for years without problem. For power supplies, I use Seasonic. The one in my main PC is 10 years old. Zero problems in any of my machines.

As for the case...I have that exact one and I do not like it. The bottom shroud made routing cables a giant PITA. I'm going to get this one as soon as I feel like fiddling again.

Ya 650 will cover just about all the bases on PC builds these days unless you are doing some silly setup with SLI and $1000 processors.
My 2060 Super I just bought a few weeks back only required 550 watts and my 5 year old 650 Rosewill modular handles it just fine.
I have 2 monitors, 4k LG 53" tv, 2 27" monitors, fiber box and router, USB hub 5 port( always full ) and PC which is a i5-4690 with 16gb ddr3 ram and the 2060 super in it and peak power with everything on and gaming for ALL of that is 404 watts according to my cyberpower pure sine wave UPS. With all of that on including TV using fire stick and just browsing the web like now it reads 189 watts for everything.
I bought the 2060 super because I was worried about power but turns out I was being overly cautious. I have waaaaaay to many things plugged in my main room. Full size air purifier, floor fan, window ac, all the stuff above, weather monitor, printer, aquarium with heater, filter and led light, 3 wifi bulbs, Vizio soundbar with sub and a alexa echo dot.
Turns out after using smart monitors I can account for everything but ceiling fan in power.
Weather station uses 4 watts.
Alex Echo dot 3 uses 14 watts
Vizio soundbar standard volume 29 watts
PC 70-270 watts
AC 80 watts fan/460 watts on
Monitors 2 27" curved 60 watts for both
Fiber box + router 24 watts
TV-80 watts
USB hubs( 2 ) 3amp 5 volts so 15 watts each- 30 max
Air purifier- 60 watts
Floor fan- 50 watts
aquarium heater+led lights+filter 32 watts( small tank )
Cyberpower 1500/900 PFC UPS 5 watts display and like 30 if it is charging battery( only after outages )


About 1100 watts with everything on cranked out max with AC running.
Ceiling fan is 3 wifi bulbs led ( 9 watts each ) + I assume about 100 watts fan
1250 max room IF I am using everything at once.

So I wouldn't worry about PC power output much unless you have something nutty.
Most cpus are 60-95 watts. SSDs and Ram only use a few watts, case fans 3-5 watts per typically and video cards 90-300 watts. You want a power supply that is your max+ 20% and I buy gold standard which I think is about 90% efficient off the top of my head( you always lose some power converting to 12v/5v/3.3 and so forth). Anything silver/gold is good. I don't feel the 80+ and bronze are good due to only being a few bucks cheaper and you lose 7% or so and platnium/titanium PSU's only give you 1% more or so each.
The only reason I have a $200 battery power supply is in case power goes out it'll run my internet for 2+ hours for my tablet/phone/laptops and the AVR corrects voltage problems and spikes. I went ahead and got pure sine wave over simulated because it was only $40 more to get a super good backup system.

Whew.
Very happy with the 2060 super btw. I went from running Atlas for example at med/high settings and 30 fps on a NV 970 GTX to epic everything sliders all right and 70 fps.
AMD's 5700 and 5700XT was my other choices for me and would be about the same.