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Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
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Picasso_sl said:
1500 or under. More if they have to put in a ton of afci or gfci which they may due to updated code. The box and some starter breakers cost Like 150.
if they come in high ask then why, there are many painful auxiliaries that may result but just the box is not bad.
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Agreed, but need to see quote of work done. Homeowner could be responsible for 'last mile' upgrades so there could be an expensive run to double amperage. Depending on the area, they may not make that style panel or the breakers may have been deprecated for new installs which means a complete replacement job. All it takes is one 30A 2 pole GFCI to run up the price pretty significantly. I'd get detail pricing to compare on product as well as a lot of those contractors charge full retail but you can get them for a good deal off yourself online much less if you know someone who has an account at a supply house.
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

> Than U
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I charge pretty much six to seven per foot on refinishing.most floor companies charge five to seven. COURSE given the last one was 530 sq ft and I got sick during it with lung clots and growths and have racked up a 50k bill so far,I doubt I will do many more hardwoods simply for lung and breathing issues
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

> Than U
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67,408
I do in fact I run a fresh air box.the issue was house was up for sale and someone ignored tape and signs and walked in during final stain. I didn't have all my stuff that day since I had planned to tac and seal so I sanded down just stain cost mostly with a six inch orbit. Didnt see or expect much on dust but next day tons settled thin oo stuff too and all I had used was just a normal demo toss away mask. The next week things went downhill.
 
lurker

lurker

Vyemm Raider
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3,347
Picasso_sl said:
Form almost complete... what a pain in the ass.
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Are you going to fill that with concrete? It looks to be 1ftx4ftx12ft (I can't really tell) and that's 48 cubic ft of material at about 150lbs/cubic ft, that's over 7000 lbs. The bracing looks grossly inadequate.

Maybe you're doing something else, in which case ignore this.
 
Noodleface

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,278
15,109
Was cleaning the floor yesterday and noticed radiator was leaking all over the hardwood. I did see a tiny bit of water in the basement, but it's a small/slow leak. I think I caught it right when it was fresh.

Thankfully my brother in law is in HVAC and says he can fix it.. just hope it's cheap. Looks like right where the pipe connects to the radiator. Might just be tightening needed or could need some re-work. Just hope my floors are ok (wood)
 
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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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It's about 20 ft long. Starts at about 16 inches wide at bottom and tapers to 8 at top. Have the top braced across and behind and existing block wall. Added more braces in the evening. Gonna keep adding them til I've used every piece of scrap i have prob. Also, it's keyed into the ground about 8 inches at toe.
 
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Corndog

Lord Nagafen Raider
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Floor guys started today. Can't wait to see it once I'm off work to pick a stain.

rrr_img_99006.jpg
 
Harfle

Harfle

Lord Nagafen Raider
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someone should take over the first post and change it to highlights form the thread, and has anyone tried to setup the garage door to open/track if its opened or closed through their cellphone/internet?
 
Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
26,556
41,372
Harfle_sl said:
someone should take over the first post and change it to highlights form the thread, and has anyone tried to setup the garage door to open/track if its opened or closed through their cellphone/internet?
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Yes.

I have a Liftmaster MyQ opener, so all I needed to do was add the MyQ wireless adapter (it's wireless for theopener, not wi-fi, so it needs to be plugged into a router). I have an alarm system panel that integrates with it, though I'm pretty sure you can just use their website if you need to. If you don't have a MyQ opener, you can add the control box which basically replaces your opener switch on the wall.

Works fine, but the delay is tangible - it's more of an 'oh shit' security feature, I wouldn't replace a remote with it otherwise you'll be doing some foot tapping.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
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Need some advice here:

If you were building a level wooden platform (2x4s and 1/2 inch plywood) to place a shed on, would you bother digging post holes and sinking posts in concrete into the ground for it to sit on, or would you just dig out the ground/level the dirt so that the platform(treated lumber) could just sit straight on the ground?

My yard isn't overly wet or swampy, it drains well towards a creek behind my property, but we do get plenty of rain, snow, and constant humidity so I worry a bit about even treated lumber rotting if sitting on bare ground/in dirt.

My yard isn't level enough that I can just put the shed flat on the ground, I need to build a platform, but it's also something that could easily be dug out to level, rather than being on elevated posts. I'm probably only looking at a decline of 2-3 inches over a span of 8-10 feet.
 
lurker

lurker

Vyemm Raider
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I've done this twice, once about 8 years ago and once about 1 month ago.

Both times I used pressure treated 2x4s and exterior grade 5/8" plywood. I built the frame as per the shed instructions w/o the plywood. My wife and I carried it to the site and with a 4 ft level, we just dug out the high sports in the earth until the frame was level. It took a while to get it right, but without the plywood attached, it was not overly heavy and there were lots of places to use as handles. You could also see where the 2x4s were touching the ground causing the frame to teeter-totter.

When the frame was level in all directions (actually, we sloped it a quarter bubble towards the front to help with drainage from rainfall or lawn sprinklers), I squared it up measuring corner to corner diagonally and stapled the plywood to it while it was in position.

Nothing lasts forever and neither will PT lumber, especially if you saw the end off, but I expect about 10 years maybe more. The first one I built in AZ will probably go 20+. Replacing it won't be difficult, if it comes to that.
 
mkopec

mkopec

<Gold Donor>
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You can always use those concrete piers. Just level them out and set your foundation on top. It will keep the wood from contacting ground.

rrr_img_99147.jpg
 
lurker

lurker

Vyemm Raider
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Those blocks are certainly the way to go if you don't want the wood to touch the ground, however, you might end up with quite a step-up to get into your shed. That might be an issue if you need to park a riding mower or you don't want to pick up your push mower every time you use it.
 
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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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I made a 2x4 platform and used 3/4 plywood on top, leveled a spot, and put the platform directly on it. Piers are the right way to do it imo but you're not going to run into any big time issues either way. If you have a wooden building i would definitely do piers
 
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