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iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
I built a little woodshed on a platform that I keep a lawnmower in too. I just dug out some post holes and sank that shit directly into the earth.

I'm sure it'll rot out and fall over, but I expect that won't happen for 6-7 more years or so. And when it does, the worst part of rebuilding it will just be moving the stupid wood. I painted everything over and am sort of curious about what will rot first. My bet is that the little tin roof caves in.
 
lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
46,660
214,845
I've done it many different ways, but what I most recently did was this: I make 10 holes the size of cement blocks. Each hole was about 2 feet deep. fill one foot with coarse gravel, then poured cement up until it was roughly 6 inches from the ground. Then, one cement block on each, set the framed floor of my building on those blocks. Obviously you have to work to make the cement pads level, but once that's done, no wood touching earth, lots of points of support, solid as anything, and no big step up like you can get with those cement post things. That building has been completely solid now for almost 8 years. It's built in a high rain-water moving area.
And I just checked it, it is still sitting 100% level.

It's a lot of work, but not terribly costly, and certainly solid.
 
Sledge

Sledge

Trakanon Raider
960
2,119
Good wood posts with concrete poured around them will rot just as fast, if not faster than good wood posts just backfilled with soil. Concrete holds in any moisture that gets between the concrete and wood.
 
Borzak

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,464
33,219
Don't let any treated lumber stay in contact with the ground. It's no longer the treated lumber of the past since they stopped using chromated copper arsenate to treat it.
 
C

Corndog

Lord Nagafen Raider
520
130
So my floors are done. They look amazing, except for one spot in the old master bedroom. The board is like flaked up, and the jagged parts totally catch your shoe, would catch a sock and maybe even stab into your foot. I hired this company because they have great reviews, as they put it are in the top 75 percentile so charge more than some other companies.

Now how should I approach this? I took a picture, and texted it to the owner of the company and left a nice voice mail. For all I know he'll call back and say don't worry about a thing, we'll fix it no problem. If not what should I do? I still owe the last 50% of the job price at this point.

What is an appropriate fix? Other boards we had like that they replaced them prior to the refinishing... If they need to replace that board, in theory it'll need sanding, stain, 3 coats of finish... Might have to redo the room? Just a section etc? Anyone know what I should be seeking to have it done right?

rrr_img_99351.jpg
 
Intrinsic

Intrinsic

Person of Whiteness
<Gold Donor>
15,037
13,136
Corndog_sl said:
Now how should I approach this? I took a picture, and texted it to the owner of the company and left a nice voice mail. For all I know he'll call back and say don't worry about a thing, we'll fix it no problem. If not what should I do? I still owe the last 50% of the job price at this point.
Click to expand...
I think you're approaching it fine. Just see what they say and go from there and don't presume you'll be up against a fight. If their reviews were that good it is usually for a reason. Companies I've worked with in the home like that here are usually very interested in their work and making the customer happy.

My windows are officially being installed Monday at 8am. It'll be a two day job but I'm excited. Was hoping they'd be in this week for the in-laws visiting but another few days won't hurt. Will take some before and after pictures and am really interested to see how the house feels in this 90 degree heat.
 
iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
Other guys would know better, but looking at that I think you have 2 options really. Replace the board and refinish the patch which is a hassle. Or... throw a rug on it. Which is what rugs are for and not a hassle.

But ask the company like you are. They might come back and replace the board for you. It was something that they missed. It's not a moral flaw. No job is perfect. But they did miss it.
 
lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
46,660
214,845
Corndog_sl said:
So my floors are done. They look amazing, except for one spot in the old master bedroom. The board is like flaked up, and the jagged parts totally catch your shoe, would catch a sock and maybe even stab into your foot. I hired this company because they have great reviews, as they put it are in the top 75 percentile so charge more than some other companies.

Now how should I approach this? I took a picture, and texted it to the owner of the company and left a nice voice mail. For all I know he'll call back and say don't worry about a thing, we'll fix it no problem. If not what should I do? I still owe the last 50% of the job price at this point.

What is an appropriate fix? Other boards we had like that they replaced them prior to the refinishing... If they need to replace that board, in theory it'll need sanding, stain, 3 coats of finish... Might have to redo the room? Just a section etc? Anyone know what I should be seeking to have it done right?

rrr_img_99351.jpg
Click to expand...
The easiest way to fix that is an area rug.
 
C

Corndog

Lord Nagafen Raider
520
130
They were out today. removed the board and patched in a new one and refinished it etc. I'll see how it looks in the morning.
 
P

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
11,333
5,322
Poured today. Concrete truck was fucking insane heavy and crushed several parts of my driveway. Truck was about 50,000 lbs. It was a rush, forms held up but seriously flexed in some places. Added way more braces than i thought i needed, still barely enough. Relieved it wasn't a catastrophe
 
iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
Make sure to write "Here lies Eomer Moosefucker, may he never welch on a bet again. 197? - 2015" before it dries!
 
Gravy

Gravy

Bronze Squire
4,918
454
Not sure where else to put this question, so here goes:

I've got a 4' foot stick that is 1 1/4" x 1 1/4". Drilling directly in the middle of one side, how large of a diameter of hole can I drill and still maintain the integrity of the stick? Is there a formula for this?

I'm at the mercy of your giant penises and brains.
 
Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
26,556
41,371
Gravy_sl said:
Not sure where else to put this question, so here goes:

I've got a 4' foot stick that is 1 1/4" x 1 1/4". Drilling directly in the middle of one side, how large of a diameter of hole can I drill and still maintain the integrity of the stick? Is there a formula for this?

I'm at the mercy of your giant penises and brains.
Click to expand...
Uhhh that's missing some key information. What type of load are you placing on it, are you putting a screw into it or sinking a threaded sleeve in or just a dowel, what type of stress will be placed on it, etc.
 
Gravy

Gravy

Bronze Squire
4,918
454
Yeah, I figured it might be. It's actually for a walking cane, and the finished height will be 36" roughly. So the load would be one fat bastard (250lb.) intermittently, and the whole would remain open, no dowel or screw. Perhaps some decorative inset.
 
P

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
11,333
5,322
The "integrity of the stick" is entirely relative and it would probably be easiest and most accurate to do my trial and error.

Usually a cross sections relative strength in a particular direction is quantified by the moment of inertia. With that you can use eulers buckling formula and get some idea of its stremf
 
iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
17,656
Big P busting out the science facts and shit.

There are indeed quite a few formulae for exactly this sort of thing. Neg tuco, and leave it in the form of a question as the comment. Shit like this ishis job.


I think. He builds robots and crap.
 
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