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Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,275
15,106
Well regardless of tankless or tanked, you're kind of screwed in that regard. Obviously Noodle needs to at least replace the coils, though.
How can I check if the coils need to be replaced?

I have a brother in HVAC, is this something that's common? I usually go to him for this sort of stuff. He's adding a second heating zone to our house for free labor, plus free parts for anything he already owns. Dude is great.
 

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
11,333
5,322
Dry winter air killing me, mounting a house humidifier on the downstairs unit (not optimal but no chance on putting on in upstairs unit). Unfortunately everything is ductboard so I have to bend sheet metal and reinforce wherever I cut into it and need to attach stuff. Humidifer was $160 (aprilaire 600)... went to home depot to get all the misc fittings etc to finish the job... $100. ($50 of that was tools). It's coming along pretty well though, usually any time I have to work with sheet metal or ducting it turns into jagged shrapnel. This thing has a digital setup where I run a thermometer outside and never have to adjust anything except for summer/winter mode.
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
26,543
41,333
How can I check if the coils need to be replaced?

I have a brother in HVAC, is this something that's common? I usually go to him for this sort of stuff. He's adding a second heating zone to our house for free labor, plus free parts for anything he already owns. Dude is great.
You can't without pulling them most of the time. If one is actually broken (say you have two so one works partially and you have some hot water but not enough/fast enough) you could do a continuity test on the leads but often they're just caked with deposits (especially calcium) from years of use and they just don't transmit heat as well so it takes forever to heat up.

That said, if you only have the problem in one place there could be a pipe issue which would be a separate problem but if your hot water pipe looks like this due to years of hard water you are just kind of screwed and have to run new pipe:

rrr_img_124128.gif
 

Deathwing

<Bronze Donator>
16,741
7,767
Thanks for reminding me to get my water softener fixed. Tried messing with the dial a couple years ago so that it would soften as much(I hate "slimy" showers), ended up unscrewing the dial and just won't go back in.
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,275
15,106
Yeah I'm not really sure. Like the radiators heat up just fine, all the faucets in the house heat up near-instantly, but the shower/bath is sloooooow. Could be the pipes
 

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
11,333
5,322
I believe the radiators are hooked up to a boiler (furnace) and is a completely separate (closed) system than hot water for sinks/showers. I would ensure your sinks don't have point of use tankless or something and your main system is a shitpile. I usually wait approx 45 seconds for my hot water to get to my shower on the second story from the basement.
 

Moogalak

<Gold Donor>
950
1,674
I need some A/C advice from the bros. I have a detached 2 car garage that we want to use for a kinda man cave/adult hangout. Any suggestions on what options we have for putting a/c and heat out there, without getting quotes from contractors? I have been eyeballing the portable a/c units on the net, but i'd like to know if anyone has personal experience with this type of shit.
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,275
15,106
My father has a portable unit - and by that I mean one of those ones that sit on the floor and pump ac, it works ok. I feel it doesn't cool very well.

We have heat pump Mistubishi ductless units in our house and they're awesome during the summer. Extremely efficient and doesn't really raise our bill too much. They aren't so great for heating our house, but they may be too small for that. Also winters here are really cold.

Each unit was a $1000-1500 and the condenser was around $1500 as well. We had a family member install it, but that would've been another couple thousand job.
 

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
The ductless Mitsubishi AC units are awesome. My dad has one in the garage of his lake house, he turned the garage into kindof a workshop.

cools a 2-car garage just fine, but the garage is also attached to the house so it's insulated on 3 walls + the ceiling(only the garage door side doesn't have full insulation), which I'm sure helps some as well.

I want to say his was about 4 grand installed(I'm sure there's tons of different sizes of them though)

edit- here's the pricing on the unit themselves...I would estimate then double that price if you need to include installation as well

How Much Does a Mitsubishi Ductless Air Conditioner Cost?
 

Eomer

Trakanon Raider
5,472
272
Yeah I'm not really sure. Like the radiators heat up just fine, all the faucets in the house heat up near-instantly, but the shower/bath is sloooooow. Could be the pipes
Is it a single or double handle faucet? If it's single handle, it might help to adjust the temperature stop:How to Adjust the Rotational Limit Stop on Your Delta Shower - YouTube

Just be careful you don't turn it up so high that scalding becomes a risk. I only read the quoted post, not your previous ones, so it's entirely possible I'm missing something.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,926
10,576
Copy/pasta this from other forums as I'll take answers where I can get them.

Hokay, 3 questions. But the issues at hand arn't specific to aquarium knowledge. I'm putting in a 300 deep dimension reef tank. (6ftx3x27inch high) Going to create a seperate thread on the floor I'd like to reinforce just in case, this post is more for issues in the room it's going in.

#1 First is, the tank, which will run lines into basement for the sump, I intend to put it in a corner office of the house along an outside wall. There is 2 windows with like 5 inch divider between them. Below them is an air vent I'd like to run the overflow and return to the basement. Outside the windows is the covered front porch. I would intend to probably leave the blinds closed most or all the time (no algae issues).

I originally intended to be able to open blinds in evening and let neighborhood enjoy tank from back, but I decided the clear background would take away from my own viewing too much so will be painting it. My mover buddies though have cautioned me against this placement. I have another option, but for several reasons I'd much prefer to stick with this. The concerns were primarily around condensation with the windows and salt creep.

I was wondering if I should be worried about that and options? I need to find something that wouldn't make the wall too unsightly, so just hanging plastic tarp isn't great. My ideas include possibly using a cover on the tank to further cut evaporation (between that and sump in basement figure it cant be too bad) Or possibly just moving the stand forward a bit to give me some clearance on the back wall I can squeeze behind a little to do some clean up as needed. This would require the overflows going from just a 45 angled into the vent straight under stand to being still same angle really but just angled out the back of the stand to the vent. Was planning on Herbie drain as the ML 300dd only has 2 holes in each overflow.



#2 I'm probably getting a steel stand made, I think it would be prettiest and easiest to get glossy black vs trying to mess with a big wood stand and look nice for my skills. Fairly tall stand since it's a DD tank for better viewing. Looking at emulating this tank from on RC. Difference being it's a FRAMED marineland.http://ksimonian.com/J/Fish-Tank-03.jpgSo my question is with a steel stand similiar to the one linked. Is there any reason I should be having a board either under the stand or on top of the base like in image? Sump will be in basement as stated. Floor is wood laminate so I'll be putting towels down to work often regardless. Would like to avoid destroying it with imprints of the tank.

For the top of the stand, since Ive got the plastic rim, means I should NOT use foam or anything right? But any advantages to having a board across it vs just making sure the rim fits onto the foot print of the stand correctly.

#3 How much variation or what not do I have when it comes to steel. I see all the info on wood, but I don't know what changes for steel. Here's a stand unpainted by the guy I was going to have do mine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b51467338.jpg

But I notice its legs differ from the gorgeous one above. I am guessing I can skip those little wing supports in the back of the rimless 300 pic. But for my size tank (6x3x27high) Is it wise to stick with 2 vertical supports front/back besides the corners? And if so is it fine with the 3 foot width to not have an aditional vertical on the sides. (Not having it would be ideal for sliding in equipment if I had to abandon the basement sum for some reason.) Builder guy says he usually uses 1.75 square (so basically 2x2) for the steel.


Stand then be left open or just rare earch magnet some panels.

The wall area to be placed.
rrr_img_124203.jpg


The look I'm going for (except mine is rimmed)
rrr_img_124205.jpg


A previous stand the maker had done on a smaller tank unpainted.
 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,803
Copy/pasta this from other forums as I'll take answers where I can get them.

Hokay, 3 questions. But the issues at hand arn't specific to aquarium knowledge. I'm putting in a 300 deep dimension reef tank. (6ftx3x27inch high) Going to create a seperate thread on the floor I'd like to reinforce just in case, this post is more for issues in the room it's going in.

#1 First is, the tank, which will run lines into basement for the sump, I intend to put it in a corner office of the house along an outside wall. There is 2 windows with like 5 inch divider between them. Below them is an air vent I'd like to run the overflow and return to the basement. Outside the windows is the covered front porch. I would intend to probably leave the blinds closed most or all the time (no algae issues).

I originally intended to be able to open blinds in evening and let neighborhood enjoy tank from back, but I decided the clear background would take away from my own viewing too much so will be painting it. My mover buddies though have cautioned me against this placement. I have another option, but for several reasons I'd much prefer to stick with this. The concerns were primarily around condensation with the windows and salt creep.

I was wondering if I should be worried about that and options? I need to find something that wouldn't make the wall too unsightly, so just hanging plastic tarp isn't great. My ideas include possibly using a cover on the tank to further cut evaporation (between that and sump in basement figure it cant be too bad) Or possibly just moving the stand forward a bit to give me some clearance on the back wall I can squeeze behind a little to do some clean up as needed. This would require the overflows going from just a 45 angled into the vent straight under stand to being still same angle really but just angled out the back of the stand to the vent. Was planning on Herbie drain as the ML 300dd only has 2 holes in each overflow.



#2 I'm probably getting a steel stand made, I think it would be prettiest and easiest to get glossy black vs trying to mess with a big wood stand and look nice for my skills. Fairly tall stand since it's a DD tank for better viewing. Looking at emulating this tank from on RC. Difference being it's a FRAMED marineland.http://ksimonian.com/J/Fish-Tank-03.jpgSo my question is with a steel stand similiar to the one linked. Is there any reason I should be having a board either under the stand or on top of the base like in image? Sump will be in basement as stated. Floor is wood laminate so I'll be putting towels down to work often regardless. Would like to avoid destroying it with imprints of the tank.

For the top of the stand, since Ive got the plastic rim, means I should NOT use foam or anything right? But any advantages to having a board across it vs just making sure the rim fits onto the foot print of the stand correctly.

#3 How much variation or what not do I have when it comes to steel. I see all the info on wood, but I don't know what changes for steel. Here's a stand unpainted by the guy I was going to have do mine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b51467338.jpg

But I notice its legs differ from the gorgeous one above. I am guessing I can skip those little wing supports in the back of the rimless 300 pic. But for my size tank (6x3x27high) Is it wise to stick with 2 vertical supports front/back besides the corners? And if so is it fine with the 3 foot width to not have an aditional vertical on the sides. (Not having it would be ideal for sliding in equipment if I had to abandon the basement sum for some reason.) Builder guy says he usually uses 1.75 square (so basically 2x2) for the steel.


Stand then be left open or just rare earch magnet some panels.

The wall area to be placed.
rrr_img_124203.jpg


The look I'm going for (except mine is rimmed)
rrr_img_124205.jpg


A previous stand the maker had done on a smaller tank unpainted.
That's a pretty serious setup. IMHO you'd do best asking these questions on Reefcentral, but I've had a number of reef tanks so I can provide some input. First off don't put it by the windows unless you can TOTALLY block out heat/light-- you'll run into both algae and tank temp variation issues. Also never put the tank against the wall unless you make sure that there will never be any need for rear access. Even so, not ever being able to clean the wall will prove to be an issue over time.. Also, especially if not using a canopy (which are ugly imho) make sure there is no AC intake in the ceiling above the tank, otherwise you'll run into accelerated evaporation as well as wet AC filters. Needless to say, depending on the size of the room you'll need a dehumidifier.

For the stand it's generally suggested to put a layer of Styrofoam (I prefer cork myself) under the tank, especially if it's rimless. The idea here is that it will absorb shocks that would normally be transferred to the tank. The most important thing though is that the tank is perfectly level. If it isn't, especially for a tank that size, your risk it failing and having a nice flood.

I hope you also plan on getting a Neptune aquacontroller, an ATO unit downstairs, and a LED based fixture-- all of which I'd consider mandatory for a tank that size.

IMHO, you see relatively new to the hobby. I would really suggest getting a consult from a local saltwater pro on your specific installation, because once it's in there's no going back and a mistake could potentially run you thousands..
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,926
10,576
On man reefer. Ya its on rc too, but knew smart people here too.

With those blinds and the house overhanging them light doesn't really get directly in or get heated by sun. I gave up on making it viewable from street. I was suggested a semi perm wall or covering over the windows. Not sure how I'd do it to look good but better than plastic taped down. Ideally this tank won't be going anywhere for 20years, so I do need what's behind to not look like shit. I did above think of placing it like a foot or so out from wall so I could squeeze behind barely or just give more room to avoid any splash.

With that foot or so of space figure I can run a microfiber damp mop across to wipe wall up if salty? Can't see but have a huge wrap around desk in way. Think it might have to go, but not sold on a tank floating in middle of room, just putting since clearance. I need to use vent to get to basement. The opposite wall has a vent so would be same deal just no windows.


No ac inlet, might run a fan, hoping no dehumidifier. Double door opening so hope better air exchange than from a typical doorway. Room should basically be my computer, tank, and probably my movable reloading table in a corner.

Heat I hear regulated well by basement shop in unfinished basement. But this time using t5 hybrid with led instead of straight led. Did debate attempting a cover for evap somehow on main tank, might have to have hood if my fixture is too ugly and maybe cut down on humidity a bit if it is an issue.

Definitely an ato, was thinking of trying that genysis or whatever automated water changer paired with its ato to do continual water change. Fun of that sump room doing all the stuff that's harder under tank.

Not new, but new to this size tank and making g it super nice. Im very cautious so like triple checking things. My 210 due to the unfinished basement was less refined and was a hodgepodge of jury rigged equipment vs buying all new this go around with my new income. Will be interesting going from water changes and simple gfo to possibly doing carbon dosing or other things. Not looking forward to the gas tank for a calcium reactor if I get too many sps.

Was actually thinking of having a go at tank hatched cuttles.
 

Frenzied Wombat

Potato del Grande
14,730
31,803
On man reefer. Ya its on rc too, but knew smart people here too.

With those blinds and the house overhanging them light doesn't really get directly in or get heated by sun. I gave up on making it viewable from street. I was suggested a semi perm wall or covering over the windows. Not sure how I'd do it to look good but better than plastic taped down. Ideally this tank won't be going anywhere for 20years, so I do need what's behind to not look like shit. I did above think of placing it like a foot or so out from wall so I could squeeze behind barely or just give more room to avoid any splash.

With that foot or so of space figure I can run a microfiber damp mop across to wipe wall up if salty? Can't see but have a huge wrap around desk in way. Think it might have to go, but not sold on a tank floating in middle of room, just putting since clearance. I need to use vent to get to basement. The opposite wall has a vent so would be same deal just no windows.


No ac inlet, might run a fan, hoping no dehumidifier. Double door opening so hope better air exchange than from a typical doorway. Room should basically be my computer, tank, and probably my movable reloading table in a corner.

Heat I hear regulated well by basement shop in unfinished basement. But this time using t5 hybrid with led instead of straight led. Did debate attempting a cover for evap somehow on main tank, might have to have hood if my fixture is too ugly and maybe cut down on humidity a bit if it is an issue.

Definitely an ato, was thinking of trying that genysis or whatever automated water changer paired with its ato to do continual water change. Fun of that sump room doing all the stuff that's harder under tank.

Not new, but new to this size tank and making g it super nice. Im very cautious so like triple checking things. My 210 due to the unfinished basement was less refined and was a hodgepodge of jury rigged equipment vs buying all new this go around with my new income. Will be interesting going from water changes and simple gfo to possibly doing carbon dosing or other things. Not looking forward to the gas tank for a calcium reactor if I get too many sps.

Was actually thinking of having a go at tank hatched cuttles.
Don't fuck around with a tank that size. My experience with reefing is that you either go high end or go home. With a tank that size you're looking at 10K easy worth of livestock, all of which can be lost in a flash (crash) if a single thing goes wrong. My list of essentials for a tank like that would be:

1) Neptune Aquancontroller to monitor ALL tank parameters from anywhere in the world and allow remote control from your IPhone for all components
2) Dosing pumps connected to Neptune
3) Multiple Ecotech Vortech MP 60's
4) Maxspect or Ecotech LED Fixture, either back mounted or ceiling pendant
5) Biopellet reactor
6) Chiller
7) Multiple heaters
8) ATO
9) Leak sensors around tank floor hooked up to Neptune
10) Power generator for power outages
 

Corndog

Lord Nagafen Raider
520
130
For the marineland double deep. just get a decent stand built. The wings on that stand you showed which has an acrylic tank on it is for anti racking. So that the tank stand can't fold over with force from the side. The larger the steel tubing the the less chance for racking.

As for what to go with underneath the tank. I personally wouldn't put anything but if I was going to. I'd put weather stripping on the stand, it basically would help in an earthquake as it gives some grip to the stand. I'd have the stand powder coated and for the wall behind the tank, if I were worried about it I'd put the white stuff they use in commercial kitchens that you can cut to fit behind the tank and easy to install.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,926
10,576
One thing a local forum with a bunch of hands on type folk had a few points were good. One is being in Colorado some things are different. I think the humidity is going to be less of a problem than it is with a lot of reefers on coasts and other humidty places. For the windows I was given idea of doing foil backed rigid foamboard then a layer of plywood over that followed by those newer wall "stickers" with an ocean scene or something. I may alter that a bit but should work if humidity is a problem.

Wish dehumidifyers were not noisy, or I could run it in the sump room but be drawing any moisture from the tank room.

My biggest thing is I imagine it's a load bearing wall, so I want to be close while at the same time I'm trying to extend out. I'm hoping like 2 feet out would be good, but that might be making things worse with shear strength. All the more why I'll have a seperate thread on reenforcing. One guy just said 2 of the metal joists with a 4x4 running across. I imagine I'll be trying to sister and add smush/crush blocks or something.

Thinking any kind of carpet under it bad, dont want to tear up and tile (I'm not handy at all and that's just too costly to do.) Think I'll have to accept I'll be replacing laminate if tank removed. One guy figured I might save it by I think he said a small layer of something with a 3/4 plywood sheet over it sealed and painted of course.



I've started thinking about doing a hanging hood possibly, because I'm thinking led +t5 retro's going to be ugly. Hanging one not touching tank I doubt would help with humidity much, but who knows maybe trap a bit of vapor up in it. Be nice on ceiling so I can raise/lower it than trying to work thru a shitty little door on a conventional. Have a pic but it's on my phone, might try getting on computer if anyone interested.
 

LachiusTZ

Rogue Deathwalker Box
<Silver Donator>
14,472
27,162
Ok, bought a house, did some small stuff. Had a guy come by today and give me an estimate to replace 10 windows, and blow insulation, and the estimate was 9k.

Thinking I can do it myself, but not really confident in the replacing of windows around brick and tile.

SO, is this worth doing myself? Took a quick look at the insulation, and the 150 bags of that shit is going to run me 3grand? Found some other junk at Lowes that looks to be 1800$ for the 24000in^3 I need?

Windows look pretty easy . . .

Anyway, if I can do this shit myself and save enough cash to buy a motorcycle, then its worth it (really really miss my 07 bike, and would like to buy one and rebuild it, another thread tho . . . )

Ok, so what am I in for here?
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,275
15,106
Can you get any sort of discount from energy companies if you replace with blow insulation? Like here we can call MassSave and they offer all sort of crazy discounts on stuff related to lowering energy bills.
 

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
Ok, bought a house, did some small stuff. Had a guy come by today and give me an estimate to replace 10 windows, and blow insulation, and the estimate was 9k.

Thinking I can do it myself, but not really confident in the replacing of windows around brick and tile.

SO, is this worth doing myself? Took a quick look at the insulation, and the 150 bags of that shit is going to run me 3grand? Found some other junk at Lowes that looks to be 1800$ for the 24000in^3 I need?

Windows look pretty easy . . .

Anyway, if I can do this shit myself and save enough cash to buy a motorcycle, then its worth it (really really miss my 07 bike, and would like to buy one and rebuild it, another thread tho . . . )

Ok, so what am I in for here?
That seems really, really expensive for blown insulation

We used this stuff from Lowe's in our attic:

Shop GreenFiber R60 40-sq ft Cellulose Blown-in Insulation with Sound Barrier at Lowes.com

its like 6 bucks per bag. We had existing insulation that was roughly R30, and we took it up to R50-60ish. In a 1500sq foot attic that only took about 60 bags, so 360 bucks worth of insulation. How big is your attic and how much insulation is already there? Unless your attic is like 3000 square feet and has zero existing insulation, I cant see it costing you $1800 -$3000 (unless that was the quoted price to have someone blow it in for you, then it makes sense)

Blowing insulation in a wide open space like an attic is super easy, but it is a 2 person job. You need 1 person to constantly feed the blower and one person to do the blowing with the big tube/hose thingy. My wife and I did our entire 1500sq foot attic in a couple hours, rented a blower from Lowes for like $50 or something(I think they might even cover the cost of rental if you spend a certain minimum $ amount on insulation)

Look at these calculations for how much you need:

Step One - Calculate Your Need | GreenFiber.com

To go from R30 to R59, they recommend 36 bags per 1000 sq feet (R30, if that's your starting point, was 46 bags and the goal of R59 is 83 bags, so you just need the difference)

Just don't do this in the middle of summer when your attic is 130 degrees. It'll be worse than hell. Do it now during the winter when it's cold.