I do see what you're saying but a check valve suggestion leads me to believe you're fucking around. From what i understand this is allowed (no vent pipe) because I'm within 5 ft of the stack. If you're talking about my pipes just getting stopped up and coming up in sink... I'd rather have that then backing up 1 more storey into kitchen
Home Improvement
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That's what I'm saying. I have similar plumbing for my sump hole, and I have to have a check valve there. Any plumbing up gravity from that opening could back up there if there is heavy volume. Imagine every toilet is flushed while the kitchen sink is on, the dishwasher draining, and the washer also draining. Not likely, right? But possible. You're going to have back flow to that opening.
3week rrp bet when i get this hooked up I'll open all the taps and run around flushing toilets and draining bathtubs as fast as i can nothing backs up into the sink.
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I don't rrp bet. Silly.
Perhaps you'll be fine. There's the possibility that you won't be. If it were me, I'd eliminate that possibility. Do as you see fit.
Perhaps you'll be fine. There's the possibility that you won't be. If it were me, I'd eliminate that possibility. Do as you see fit.
I have hooked up the drain for an extensive field test, no trap failures yet.
On another note, i discovered my fucking frostproof faucet outside froze and busted. I had never had anything so fancy so I didn't know you have to take the hose off for it to work.
On another note, i discovered my fucking frostproof faucet outside froze and busted. I had never had anything so fancy so I didn't know you have to take the hose off for it to work.
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I have almost the exact setup in my basement for a utility sink and that shit backed up every day from the upstairs kitchen. There used to be like 6in of sludge in the utility sink at all times sometimes my entire basement 1/2 smelled like shit. Listen to the dude that mentioned a backflow valve. I had to remove and cap it for the time being until I can fix it proper.
Eomer
Trakanon Raider
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There is something else wrong with your sanitary drainage system, then. That appears to be a 4" line. A 4" line can drain 180 fixture units on the horizontal and 540 on the vertical, according to the Canadian plumbing code. A tank style toilet is 4 FU. An entire house is probably not going to be more than 15-20 FU if you have a couple bathroom groups (6 FU each), a kitchen sink (1.5 FU), a washer/dryer (2 FU) and a couple other misc. things. If you are getting backups, it's because there is a blockage somewhere further down the line.
We do 30 story high sanitary 4" stacks on high rise projects, and do not install a single backflow valve on anything. Because properly sized, vented and installed you should never have a backup.
We do 30 story high sanitary 4" stacks on high rise projects, and do not install a single backflow valve on anything. Because properly sized, vented and installed you should never have a backup.
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Why do you have to disconnect the hose? I didn't know of these faucet either until I moved into this house, but I've been leaving it attached too. Drained as well as I can, but still attached. Hmmm, hope nothing is damaged. How did you tell it was busted?
Eomer
Trakanon Raider
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You need to disconnect the hose so that the hose bib drains completely out. They're installed with a slope to the exterior. The actual valve/stop is 8-12" back from the exterior typically (they're available in a wide variety of lengths), so it should never freeze back there as it will be past the insulation, vapor barrier etc. Not disconnecting the hose is just begging for water to remain in the hose bib, potentially causing a freeze and burst.
Even with a NFHB, it's still good plumbing practice to have an easily accessible valve in the interior that shuts water off to the hose bib, so even if it does freeze you won't have a flood on your hands.
Even with a NFHB, it's still good plumbing practice to have an easily accessible valve in the interior that shuts water off to the hose bib, so even if it does freeze you won't have a flood on your hands.
It leaks through the brick when I turn it on. I don't have an internal separate valve. Just take the hose off, if this doesn't screw out and back in and i have to smash wall to fix this I'm going to be majorly pissed off
You just cut a hole on the inside wall with a utility knife. The Frost Proof Sillcock unscrews out with a wrench. I first tried replacing the bibb washer but no luck. That is if you have a slab. With a basement you might get lucky and do it down stairs between the joists.
lurker
Vyemm Raider
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If you need to cut the sheetrock to see where the valve connects to the plumbing, that's a good excuse to buy an oscillating multi-tool. The kerf that thing makes is so fine, you can just put the piece you cut out back in with a dab of caulk, paint the seam, vacuum up the dust and you're done. You'll find other things to do with that tool in the future.
Already gots 1
4" laundry tub faucets all seemed like junky pieces of shit. Bought a delta with sprayer for 80 bucks. May get a soap dispenser for the 3rd hole
4" laundry tub faucets all seemed like junky pieces of shit. Bought a delta with sprayer for 80 bucks. May get a soap dispenser for the 3rd hole
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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WHY ISN'T THAT WIRING PROTECTED?!?
You need to get right with Jesus, and Article 334.15(C), you nerd.