Home Improvement
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Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Do you think the integrity of the wall would be compromised too much if I ran the pipe through the wall where the 2nd layer of blocks would be against the house (i.e. instead of a partial block there would be a pipe and then the next row of blocks would be placed as normal)?
It might be hard to tell from the picture, but the wall would only be retaining a very small garden/landscaping area. I don't think there would be much force on it (assuming it's draining properly).
Palum
what Suineg set it to
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You shouldn't but you will then have the problem where the wall blocks don't stack at exactly a 50% offset. I would find something to support the layers above it slightly off the drainage pipe - if you can chip apart one block to get the sides to fit snugly around the stone, you can turn them around so the angles work
IE \__/\__//_| |_\\__/\__/
IE \__/\__//_| |_\\__/\__/
Water will weep through the wall so with gravel backfill i wouldn't be worried about the integrity as much as I would creating a situation where water is held close to the foundation. Hard to tell the slopes is the area and that's the key, from what I can see I'd just try to get it past the wall.
Using a 3" pipe may help get through the face of the wall.
As far as an additional underdrain goes you probably should but I don't think it's going to be a big deal either way but i would try to provide an outlet from the backfill/wall foundation. I got lazy on one dug a low spot under the wall gravel foundation and put a drain from there to an outlet to let water out from the wall. It'll roar with water in a rainstorm, surprised me.
In the future i recommend using larger block (12x16x6, 70 lb). They dont fall over when you hit them and they provide you with a ton of literature on building for diff scenarios.
Using a 3" pipe may help get through the face of the wall.
As far as an additional underdrain goes you probably should but I don't think it's going to be a big deal either way but i would try to provide an outlet from the backfill/wall foundation. I got lazy on one dug a low spot under the wall gravel foundation and put a drain from there to an outlet to let water out from the wall. It'll roar with water in a rainstorm, surprised me.
In the future i recommend using larger block (12x16x6, 70 lb). They dont fall over when you hit them and they provide you with a ton of literature on building for diff scenarios.
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This is exactly the solution I would go with. Makes sense, and gets the water away, which is never a bad thing.
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Vepil
Gamja
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Screw french drains! I have 25' of 100 left to dig by hand beside my foundation and oh yea, that 25' is nearly 5' deep to get down to the footer sigh. The builder used about 1/10th the gravel he should have and even put the pipe on the footer which means you guessed it the water has to fill up the trench to on top the footer and then begins to try and drain, but rather than the pipe it likes sneaking between the wall joints into my basement.
Sorry to vent but saw someone said something about a french drain earlier LoL. This thing is kicking my butt.
Sorry to vent but saw someone said something about a french drain earlier LoL. This thing is kicking my butt.
Palum
what Suineg set it to
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Yea no shit LoL. Fuck trenching that much.
So fixed up entire pool system. Purring like a kitten, super quiet, no leaks, pool vac suction could kill a small child. All good.
Also decided I'm waiting until I replace the pool pump before fixing the in floor system.
Priced a shed out and materials are going to be around $1400. Yuck. I really want the storage but bleh.
So fixed up entire pool system. Purring like a kitten, super quiet, no leaks, pool vac suction could kill a small child. All good.
Also decided I'm waiting until I replace the pool pump before fixing the in floor system.
Priced a shed out and materials are going to be around $1400. Yuck. I really want the storage but bleh.
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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ToeMissile
Pronouns: zie/zhem/zer
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Borzak
Bronze Baron of the Realm
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I've had really good luck just asking around for someone that might know someone who did physical type work and needed to pick up a few bucks or was laid off etc...Normally get a black guy who is intelligent and you don't have to explain it 10 times and he's really happy to be picking up some cash. Not a big fan of hiring Mexicans.
Mrs. Gravy
Quite Saucy
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I am having my old an completely rotten/useless deck torn off so that I can put up a smaller one. It is really only an egress off of the back of the house because the previous owners installed a sliding glass door there when they put on the deck originally. Most of the deck had been torn down when we had new siding installed but they left up part of it for the egress. ANYWAY, upon tearing off the deck and part of the old siding (in an effort to determine the solidity of the joists to the house/joist hangers screwed into the house) it was discovered that the very important "band" board (local term I think for the 2 x 12) part of the house/frame was very badly damaged from moisture and subsequently carpenter ants who seem to enjoy the soft wood. Thus far it is approximately a 6 foot section. It is the section beneath the hated sliding door (I seriously dislike the sliding door; a french door or double lighted would have been nicer and more energy efficient, but I digress). There was no flashing, so I am guessing at this point that is the issue with the moisture. I cannot see it from inside the basement even though that room is largely unfinished; the walls are drywalled up to the header of the exit door and then there is insulation so really, no way of noticing damage as I don't use the basement door often and again - damage UNDER siding.
If it were not storming right now I would go take a pic.
ANYWAY...I obviously need it repaired but am wondering if I can have it screw jacked from the inside, replace with good 2 by 12 on the outside (new wood screwed into the good section of band) and then put scab/cheaters in the inside, more screwing... after removing the rot of course OR am I going to have to have something else done... thoughts please. (Source of water to be determined - pretty sure it was old guttering and lack of flashing...my friend is an exterminator so I have the ant thing covered).
If it were not storming right now I would go take a pic.
ANYWAY...I obviously need it repaired but am wondering if I can have it screw jacked from the inside, replace with good 2 by 12 on the outside (new wood screwed into the good section of band) and then put scab/cheaters in the inside, more screwing... after removing the rot of course OR am I going to have to have something else done... thoughts please. (Source of water to be determined - pretty sure it was old guttering and lack of flashing...my friend is an exterminator so I have the ant thing covered).
Remove 2x12 ledger board, see if you can get flashing slid up under siding and around door (google Z flashing)
Replace the 2x12, use treated. I assume it's bolting to wood joist plate and not block etc. Use a fuck ton of lag bolts if you can't get to it from the inside, try to hit the interior joists (you can google ledger board attachment as well, as long as you're tying into wood it shouldn't be too worrisome). I think i read like 80% of decks fail because of ledger board attachment failure, so keep that in mind.
Use joist hangers on the ledger board to attach new joists, use screws and use all holes of the hangers.
If the deck is more than 4 or 5 feet off the ground add some angle braces to the posts.
Regarding interior water damage and rot I would fix what I run into, but I wouldn't bust out drywall that looks fine looking for it. I'm assuming this has been a long time coming, if it's not and you built this house or remodeled within a few years, you need to do some serious shit.
Replace the 2x12, use treated. I assume it's bolting to wood joist plate and not block etc. Use a fuck ton of lag bolts if you can't get to it from the inside, try to hit the interior joists (you can google ledger board attachment as well, as long as you're tying into wood it shouldn't be too worrisome). I think i read like 80% of decks fail because of ledger board attachment failure, so keep that in mind.
Use joist hangers on the ledger board to attach new joists, use screws and use all holes of the hangers.
If the deck is more than 4 or 5 feet off the ground add some angle braces to the posts.
Regarding interior water damage and rot I would fix what I run into, but I wouldn't bust out drywall that looks fine looking for it. I'm assuming this has been a long time coming, if it's not and you built this house or remodeled within a few years, you need to do some serious shit.
Mrs. Gravy
Quite Saucy
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so if anyone remembers this mess I got myself into last summer. I got this done in late fall after many breaks just never updated this. I dry walled entire room because it was paneling, did new insulation while walls were open. Did crown molding around the beams (which was a bitch because nothing was square), the hearth (kind of hard to see) is cast concrete 2" thick, probably weighs like 500lbs. Took 3 of us to move the fucker after I cast it. Then it was dyed black which I placed on top of the bricks that remained. Tiled ontop of the brick around fireplace and also a home made mantel which cost about $150 in mats last minute before we had thanksgiving at the house. The wife was begging me to finish so I finally did. I should of made the legs of the mantel a bit fatter now that I look at it, to add that dimension of girth that the top has. Oh well, not taking it down now.
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That's sharp, man. Did you do the beams, too? All looks really good, nice job! Hope you got some extra lovin' for it.