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Soygen

Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
<Nazi Janitors>
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Picasso3 said:
Looks good. Is it an optical illusion or did you not run it up to the cabinets?
Click to expand...
It runs up to the bottom of the cabinets, where there are cabinets. In the first picture, that black thing on the right is not a cabinet, but a hanging shelf on the wall. The top of the tile there is the height of the bottom of the cabinets to the left. I'm still deciding whether to put some finishing trim on the top or just touch up the wall paint and leave it. The glass tile is not rough on the top, so I'm not sure I really need to cover it.
 
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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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Ic, looks good you did a great job with the trim tiles, i tried that once and it turned out like shit. If you hadn't run to cabs i was just going to ask why because that seems way easier to me.

I use Schluter profiles on exposed edges when i have to, fuck skilled labor.
 
Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
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So I have a normal skinny poly new-work side mount fixture box on a cathedral ceiling, the ceiling right there is roof sheathing direct on rafters direct on drywall, so no attic access. It's up to 34 years old and I expect not fan rated due to the thin walls, it doesn't look like the fan rated ones that are usually twice as thick and I don't see evidence of the typical nail on metal support brace that extends up and is found on at least modern versions of the poly side mount fan boxes.

I am putting up a ceiling fan so my thought is to surgically cut next to the rafter and snip both nails holding it in, allowing me to turn it on its side and pull it out of the drywall hole. Then I plan to mount a fan-rated saddle box two inches over and conduct the drywall repairs on the "half moon" left over from the original box location shifting over two inches.

This seems to be the easiest way I can get a fan rated box in there since I have no access to put a support rail or 2x4 in without major excavation, any other thoughts?
 
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Picasso3

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was laying tile today and realized i did not run a water line for the toilet.

not a huge deal but what a dumbass move.
 
iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
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So did it fuck you up to grout with a 12+ hour gap in between?

I didn't even think about that. I'm going to do some tile myself in another month or two I think. I've never done it, but it doesn't look all that difficult. But will that cause a seam in the grout if you don't do the entire thing in one run?
 
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Picasso3

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i haven't done grout yet, but no i wouldn't care.

cut out a section of drywall to run the water line in tomorrow, makes me so sad to have to add drywall work.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

Krugman's Fax Machine
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Palum said:
So I have a normal skinny poly new-work side mount fixture box on a cathedral ceiling, the ceiling right there is roof sheathing direct on rafters direct on drywall, so no attic access. It's up to 34 years old and I expect not fan rated due to the thin walls, it doesn't look like the fan rated ones that are usually twice as thick and I don't see evidence of the typical nail on metal support brace that extends up and is found on at least modern versions of the poly side mount fan boxes.

I am putting up a ceiling fan so my thought is to surgically cut next to the rafter and snip both nails holding it in, allowing me to turn it on its side and pull it out of the drywall hole. Then I plan to mount a fan-rated saddle box two inches over and conduct the drywall repairs on the "half moon" left over from the original box location shifting over two inches.

This seems to be the easiest way I can get a fan rated box in there since I have no access to put a support rail or 2x4 in without major excavation, any other thoughts?
Click to expand...

post a pic? I am having a hard time imagining are the moving parts you described accurately.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
i haven't done grout yet, but no i wouldn't care.

cut out a section of drywall to run the water line in tomorrow, makes me so sad to have to add drywall work.
Click to expand...

From your other pics you have a good handle on doing sheetrock, should be cake for you.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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iannis said:
So did it fuck you up to grout with a 12+ hour gap in between?

I didn't even think about that. I'm going to do some tile myself in another month or two I think. I've never done it, but it doesn't look all that difficult. But will that cause a seam in the grout if you don't do the entire thing in one run?
Click to expand...

All cementatious products get a 'cold joint' when the cure windows are far apart. with unsanded grout the hairline crack will show more than if it had sand in it. upside is that concrete and plaster are teh only 2 materials that expand when curing, so if a hairline crack shows up down the road you can usually 'rub out 'the gap with a touch up batch. You should seal grout and that can make bonding issues when tying in old to new.

12 hrs shouldn't be a big deal.
 
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TJT

TJT

Mr. Poopybutthole
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Not sure if this is the right thread. But motherfucking door to door solar panels salesman are up my ass constantly. Seriously I've had 15 (I've been counting) come to my door in under a month. I remember discussing this in a different thread but I wasn't sure which one. Anyway. Looking to do some hard math analysis of this because I am sure there is a faggot catch likely involving the purchasing/interest rate of these.

Here's the low down:
  • Current Utilities Expense: ~$1.8k/year - this is not a lot of money to me.
  • Estimate Solar Panel cost: $13k - $27k for a 6 KW system.
  • Austin Solar Rebate: $1 per watt so 6 KW = -$6k from cost
  • Unknown installation cost
  • Savings Estimate: ~$87/month
  • Home value increase? Because hipsters and shit

While over time this would save money if it is indeed saving $87/month it would take 6 years before you paid off the initial investment if you got the cheapest system and rebate combined. That's before you get into installation costs. If you get their financing you're absolutely going to be doing it wrong. So it seems the only logical scenario for your benefit is to pay up front. @AladainAF what is your experience with any of this? Do you know if having them increases home value by some unexpectedly high amount?
 
TJT

TJT

Mr. Poopybutthole
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Well the home value increase is what I would most bank on but I am guessing they aren't as valuable as I would hope. Like 50% of the houses in my neighborhood have them now and tell me how much they save per month.

But they're morons and I know they took it all hook line and sinker on financing.
 
Soygen

Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
<Nazi Janitors>
28,430
44,754
iannis said:
So did it fuck you up to grout with a 12+ hour gap in between?

I didn't even think about that. I'm going to do some tile myself in another month or two I think. I've never done it, but it doesn't look all that difficult. But will that cause a seam in the grout if you don't do the entire thing in one run?
Click to expand...
So far, so good on the 12 hour gap. I don't see any difference in the two other than the second half was a lot sloppier on my part. I'm still cleaning grout off the glass tiles.

So I had all 3 final inspections last Friday...and failed all 3. !@#% Plumbing failed due only having a single stop on the hot pipe. The dishwasher and faucet need their own, separate valve. Electric failed due to the breaker for the dishwasher and disposal not having a breaker tie. Structural failed because the other two permits need to be finished before he can sign off. Both issues were resolved on Friday, but now I need to reschedule inspections. That should happen later this week when I have time to be home. What a pain in the ass.
 
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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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Valve situation is pretty loco. But at least your inspectors seem to have a clue. Do you pay extra or is it the plumbers/electricians baby to see it through?
 
Soygen

Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
<Nazi Janitors>
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The plumber straight up said, "Yeah, my guy should have done that." I don't pay extra for them to fix it. They both came out the same day and corrected it, without a fee.
 
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L

Lenardo

Vyemm Raider
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plumber definately shoulda done that, its MAYBE 5 minutes of work for a plumber to do properly- hell i could do it in about 10 minutes, its not hard- especially if you assemble the connection outside of the cabinet and solder everything together first before sliding it under the sink (except for that last connection)
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

Krugman's Fax Machine
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Soygen said:
Zapatta Zapatta Should I seal my backsplash grout? Any recommendations on sealer? I used this for the job:

Products
Click to expand...

I would, it's a porous material and can discolor unevenly over time. Especial from kitchen grease and hard water. I like sealers labeled for natural stone and tile. Miracle Sealants 16 oz. Seal and Enhance 1-Step Natural Stone Sealer and Color Enhancer-SE/EN PT SG H - The Home Depot Is expensive but good, floor I did in a rental still looks good at 8 years., sponge on, let sit ,wipe off.

If your counter top is corian or other man made solid surface, mask it off well, I have no clue what it would do to it.
 
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