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Vinen

Vinen

God is dead
2,790
495
GuardianX said:
Well Vinen Vinen stated a while back that his home is in the millionish range, I think?

So 50-70k wouldn't be outlandish in terms of overall cost at that price-point. I just wanna know what goes into a 50-70k single location renovation.

I know I got quoted 12-15k for a "To the studs" renovation of my bathroom, which included only "Basic" plumbing and nothing to do with re-routing waste-lines or anything. Covered tiling a surround, laying vinyl floor, vanity, mirror, and tub...as well as getting the room back to a room from a stud base.
Click to expand...

We are. Keep in mind 1million in Boston != fancy. Real Estate Q______________Q
Noodle prob has a nicer kitchen than I do now.

1.) Taking down a load bearing wall and reinforcing with Steel. -This is 10K at least-
2.) Replacing Dishwasher and Oven. (Keeping Range and Fridge. Fridge is a Subzero)
3.) Replacing all Cabinets
4.) Ripping up flooring / radiant flooring
5.) Reconfiguring Kitchen
6.) Redoing Flooring + Radiant Flooring
7.) Lighting
8.) Plumbling
9.) Electrical
10.) Adding an Island.
....
 
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Crone

Crone

Bronze Baronet of the Realm
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Dandai said:
I imagine they’re not just going to be large open holes though, are they?
Click to expand...
Naw, he's filling them in with dirt and pebble rock or whatever. Doing it proper! I asked how they are going to prevent sinkage on the holes and he said the rock helps and he's compacting it down a lot I guess.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Crone said:
Naw, he's filling them in with dirt and pebble rock or whatever. Doing it proper! I asked how they are going to prevent sinkage on the holes and he said the rock helps and he's compacting it down a lot I guess.
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Well ideally the water won’t rise above the rock and disturb the soil. Rock does a surprisingly good job at giving water enough space to move around it, even buried in soil.
 
Lanx

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
65,263
147,136
Picasso3 said:
Riving knife.
Click to expand...
This skil i'm looking at looks like it has that, and those teethy things
SKIL 3410-02 10-Inch Table Saw with Folding Stand
ea8ac9b70e09d21de9ad54530a9b581c.png
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Lanx said:
so far i think i'll be ponying up 200 for a decent beginner table saw, my only requirement is a strong fence that extends
Click to expand...
You might find that you’re better off getting an after market fence at that price point. While they’re not useful for ripping, cross cut sleds are in many ways superior to a fence, especially if you have multiple cuts of the same length and use a stop block.
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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A good fence will probably cost more than that saw. It will work though, you will just have to be careful to get it square on cuts where it's important.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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BrutulTM said:
A good fence will probably cost more than that saw. It will work though, you will just have to be careful to get it square on cuts where it's important.
Click to expand...
That’s another good thing about a crosscut sled - you can make jigs that guarantee square cuts.
 
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C

Captain Suave

Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
5,254
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I got into woodworking recently and bought a DeWalt 7491RS contractor saw, specifically because it's got a great stock fence. It's been fantastic, except the miter slots are slightly (0.010'') out of square and inconsistent width. That's not terrible for this price point, but it's enough wobble that I can't cut accurate box joints for drawers. I'm still debating on if I should spend a weekend (carefully!) filing them square and parallel and use wider runners or not.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Captain Suave said:
I got into woodworking recently and bought a DeWalt 7491RS contractor saw, specifically because it's got a great stock fence. It's been fantastic, except the miter slots are slightly (0.010'') out of square and inconsistent width. That's not terrible for this price point, but it's enough wobble that I can't cut accurate box joints for drawers. I'm still debating on if I should spend a weekend (carefully!) filing them square and parallel and use wider runners or not.
Click to expand...
Best of luck. That seems difficult to get right and easy to fuck up :emoji_grimacing:
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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So I'm to the final decision phase for the bathroom.

I've decided, with your suggestions, to forego doing the toilet plumbing BUT...

I need to do the bath plumbing.

1551801723770.png


What I'm wondering is:

1. Does the P trap have to be IMMEDIATELY off the tub?
1551802258081.png

2. Can I run a direct line to the P trap from a small distance (12ish inches)?
1551802139058.png
 
BrutulTM

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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I'm not a plumber but I wouldn't be afraid to do that. The P-trap is just to keep sewer gas from coming back into your house and I don't think a foot of pipe in front of it would make any difference in that.
 
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lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
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I agree with Brutul. Shouldn't be a problem.

Edit: But if you do it, and it doesn't work, it's totally Brutul's fault.
 
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GuardianX

GuardianX

Perpetually Pessimistic
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BrutulTM said:
I'm not a plumber but I wouldn't be afraid to do that. The P-trap is just to keep sewer gas from coming back into your house and I don't think a foot of pipe in front of it would make any difference in that.
Click to expand...

Followed advice. bAthroom Flooded. wat do.
 
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