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Dandai

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If you own, sell the place and bail out. Converting from electricity to gas is going to be very expensive and modernizing HVAC will fucking kill your checkbook, and you will never see a dime of that back in savings. Further, a good conversion and HVAC update can be mediocre to...mediocre. Even if you do that, you have to replace all the windows and reinsulate the walls. Huge cash, otherwise you will be pissing blood AND still be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter on top of all the usual shit old houses always need done. There's a reason why most 1900's era houses are cheap in this country, and it isn't because the seller is looking out for your financial well being.
Yeah, I agree 100% with this. If this is a place you know you're gonna have forever and die in, then understand that you're throwing good money at bad and have no regrets. If this isn't your "forever" home, deal with the frustration of being inefficient and look for a modern structure or build a modern structure. ROI on making old structures meet modern efficiency standards will always be negative.

This realization came to me when I was looking at adding more insulation to my old house's attic. In theory, you could fill your entire attic up with blown-in insulation, but due to diminishing returns, your grandchildren would be the first to enjoy energy savings from the additional insulation cost beyond R30.
 
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Dandai

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If the goal is just to not have to depend on the electrical grid, just get a wood stove in addition to your current appliances. If you don't like cutting wood you can use your electric heat and just have wood as a backup. They even make ones that you can cook on, although a grill on the back deck is an easier solution for that.
Big Folder's in Florida. Speaking as someone living in north central Florida, there were maybe 15-20 days total that I even turned my heat on last winter. Some of those days I begrudgingly turned my AC on later in the day because it was getting up to 78-80 degrees in the house.
 

BrutulTM

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That's what I thought, but then I'm not sure what the point of switching to gas would be. Just so you can use the kitchen stove burners when the power is out?
 

Dandai

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That's what I thought, but then I'm not sure what the point of switching to gas would be. Just so you can use the kitchen stove burners when the power is out?
Water heater is the only other appliance I can think of besides a stove. Maybe a propane generator for when the power's out lol?
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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Off the top of my head, no...you won't recover that money in any reasonable span of time. Why not get an estimate and compare it to your current costs?
also don't forget to include the the monthly basic surcharge and fees associated with gas,

like i used 2$ in gas last month but my bill was 25bucks cuz of the fees n shit. like yea you might use pennies of gas, but you still get charged for that gas line monthly which negates any savings imo
 

Vepil

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Yeah. Damn. None of them have a reset button. I'll have to start with the closest one and work my way out.
If you haven't solved this yet, I had a similar issue. I found a single GFCI on the line that had tripped and was causing the issue. It was not on the outside of the house with the outdoor outlets but inside the utility room beside the furnace and appears when they did the yearly maintenance they hit the test and tripped it. Reset it and everything started working again no issues.
 
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whoo

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If you're thinking propane = off the grid, it's not. At least where appliances are concerned. All modern gas fuel appliances have electronics. 99% of them won't ignite if the power is out (stove/oven/water heater). The other 1% might but its a crap shoot. Also you need flow control /regulator from a large (250-1000 gal tank). It's not just like having a giant grill cylinder.

If you want to have some for prep, get a couple 50-125 gal tanks with the proper fittings to fill smaller tanks that will run a camp stove or pot burner.

If you have a source for wood, the previous comments about wood stoves are spot on as you get heat and cooking.

If the SHTF, you probably can't get propane refills anyway. So propane might be a 1-3 week stopgap whereas wood / flammables can last you indefinitely
 

Nija

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If you haven't solved this yet, I had a similar issue. I found a single GFCI on the line that had tripped and was causing the issue. It was not on the outside of the house with the outdoor outlets but inside the utility room beside the furnace and appears when they did the yearly maintenance they hit the test and tripped it. Reset it and everything started working again no issues.

They are back online! It was an actual light switch in the same panel which I installed the caseta dimmer. My guess is that these outlets were used for christmas lights, so he could just shut them all off from inside quickly. No GFCI anywhere.
 
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McCheese

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you can get the most basic hedge trimmer starting at 30bucks, but they won't be ideal, expecially for 7ft tall bushes

they start at 17in and then to 22in


i'd recommend getting an attachment pole system, where you have increased reach and usually the hedge trimmers are also articulated so you can angle them while you hedge


i'm only going to talk about the ryobi expand-it system cuz thats what i know
022c80d494168a819b1c415c6f7e02b0.png


but it's universal (most of them are), you can even attach this to it and it works fine(it's what i have)
6f7cba8b69f937f95ebad8f65d820e5d.png


i was able to get ALOT of reach behind bushes just by sliding it up and down to trim the bushes when i moved in (the bushes looked like 70s porn star), and i didn't have to take out the ladder for most of em.

but it's way more of an investment, if you have more questions on this, i'll answer

you can of course get other brands or even gas too.
Turns out that right after I posted, I was gifted a Ryobi lawnmower, so I already had one Ryobi battery. I picked up the Ryobi and universal attachment that you suggested. A++ suggestion, thanks. I went to town on the overgrown hedges beside the house and cleared away from the foundation. The long reach was great to get started; I was able to get back behind the bushes and clear space to stand. Then I could clear the bulk with the hedge trimmer and use good old loppers for the thicker bits near the ground. I haven't used the hedge trimmer on the really tall bushes/small trees yet, but I'm looking forward to that on the weekend.

It's hard to see in the pictures, but the ground is slightly sloping towards the house in several spots that I uncovered. I'm hoping to do proper grading away from the foundation after I finish up with the tall bushes.

I also noticed the old sealant around a spot where some cables are going into the wall has peeled off. I'm wondering if that's one way these bugs have been getting into the basement.

before
before.png

after
after.png
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
66,130
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Turns out that right after I posted, I was gifted a Ryobi lawnmower, so I already had one Ryobi battery. I picked up the Ryobi and universal attachment that you suggested. A++ suggestion, thanks. I went to town on the overgrown hedges beside the house and cleared away from the foundation. The long reach was great to get started; I was able to get back behind the bushes and clear space to stand. Then I could clear the bulk with the hedge trimmer and use good old loppers for the thicker bits near the ground. I haven't used the hedge trimmer on the really tall bushes/small trees yet, but I'm looking forward to that on the weekend.

It's hard to see in the pictures, but the ground is slightly sloping towards the house in several spots that I uncovered. I'm hoping to do proper grading away from the foundation after I finish up with the tall bushes.

I also noticed the old sealant around a spot where some cables are going into the wall has peeled off. I'm wondering if that's one way these bugs have been getting into the basement.

amazon is a good place for the expand-it line or you can use any pole tool it's universal, you just missed out on laborday sale for this site
 
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Asshat Foler

2024 FoH Asshat
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Yeah, I agree 100% with this. If this is a place you know you're gonna have forever and die in, then understand that you're throwing good money at bad and have no regrets. If this isn't your "forever" home, deal with the frustration of being inefficient and look for a modern structure or build a modern structure. ROI on making old structures meet modern efficiency standards will always be negative.

This realization came to me when I was looking at adding more insulation to my old house's attic. In theory, you could fill your entire attic up with blown-in insulation, but due to diminishing returns, your grandchildren would be the first to enjoy energy savings from the additional insulation cost beyond R30.

Big Folder's in Florida. Speaking as someone living in north central Florida, there were maybe 15-20 days total that I even turned my heat on last winter. Some of those days I begrudgingly turned my AC on later in the day because it was getting up to 78-80 degrees in the house.

That's what I thought, but then I'm not sure what the point of switching to gas would be. Just so you can use the kitchen stove burners when the power is out?

If you're thinking propane = off the grid, it's not. At least where appliances are concerned. All modern gas fuel appliances have electronics. 99% of them won't ignite if the power is out (stove/oven/water heater). The other 1% might but its a crap shoot. Also you need flow control /regulator from a large (250-1000 gal tank). It's not just like having a giant grill cylinder.

If you want to have some for prep, get a couple 50-125 gal tanks with the proper fittings to fill smaller tanks that will run a camp stove or pot burner.

If you have a source for wood, the previous comments about wood stoves are spot on as you get heat and cooking.

If the SHTF, you probably can't get propane refills anyway. So propane might be a 1-3 week stopgap whereas wood / flammables can last you indefinitely

Thank you. All very helpful information. Primary goal was for prepper type situation. Problem is in reality the house on my property needs to be demolished and rebuilt at some point so I’m hesitant to put anything in that wouldn’t transfer over to be usable in new construction.

Great points made here. I have a large forest with enough wood the last a long time on my property. I’ve bought some pretty beefy portable generators (not gonna do whole home as I said don’t wanna put something into this one if it’s gonna be demolished) and probably need to keep more propane tanks on hand.

That being said thanks to all the great feedback given it’s abundantly obvious that switching to gas makes zero sense for me.
 

Asshat Foler

2024 FoH Asshat
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So I have an old horse barn on my property that was converted to an enclosed structure. It was build prior to permitting existed. It’s in rough condition (metal roof has holes in it, trusses need replacing, needs require, etc).

The county has been a PITA to deal with. Technically the structure is on another lot (my property is technically two lots) and you can’t have auxiliary structures on a lot without a house - I was able to get an excerption for this. Then I wanted to get it reroofed - county said I needed to have a structural engineer look at it and provide written letter saying either what improvements need to be done or that it can hold up to wind requirements.

Did this and relayed it through my roofer which bumped the reroof cost up by 2k. Submit to county and they come back telling me that a contractor has to do it.

At this point I want to hire a contractor to deal with all this bullshit. It’s a concrete block structure with wooden roof trusses and metal roof. I want the thing stripped down. Hell I may even want it expanded if possible - Ideally Id like to expand it a little and make one section of it for tool storage/workshop and another section of it as a small guesthouse (think something that studio like).

I had a bad experience with a GC last year. Ended up firing him because he sucked ass at getting shit done, kept overlooking smaller details, was RELYING ON ME to check if things got done (wtf?). I felt like it got to the point where I was doing his job.

I want a GC who treats projects like they’re his own. I don’t want to have to micromanage his contractors. I don’t have time for that shit. I’m willing to pay EXTRA money for quality service. I want someone who I can ask “is this possible?” and they go look into it and get back to me within a reasonable time, etc.

Where do you guys find general contractors?
 

lurkingdirk

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So I have an old horse barn on my property that was converted to an enclosed structure. It was build prior to permitting existed. It’s in rough condition (metal roof has holes in it, trusses need replacing, needs require, etc).

The county has been a PITA to deal with. Technically the structure is on another lot (my property is technically two lots) and you can’t have auxiliary structures on a lot without a house - I was able to get an excerption for this. Then I wanted to get it reroofed - county said I needed to have a structural engineer look at it and provide written letter saying either what improvements need to be done or that it can hold up to wind requirements.

Did this and relayed it through my roofer which bumped the reroof cost up by 2k. Submit to county and they come back telling me that a contractor has to do it.

At this point I want to hire a contractor to deal with all this bullshit. It’s a concrete block structure with wooden roof trusses and metal roof. I want the thing stripped down. Hell I may even want it expanded if possible - Ideally Id like to expand it a little and make one section of it for tool storage/workshop and another section of it as a small guesthouse (think something that studio like).

I had a bad experience with a GC last year. Ended up firing him because he sucked ass at getting shit done, kept overlooking smaller details, was RELYING ON ME to check if things got done (wtf?). I felt like it got to the point where I was doing his job.

I want a GC who treats projects like they’re his own. I don’t want to have to micromanage his contractors. I don’t have time for that shit. I’m willing to pay EXTRA money for quality service. I want someone who I can ask “is this possible?” and they go look into it and get back to me within a reasonable time, etc.

Where do you guys find general contractors?

So I never use a general contractor, as I do everything myself. It seems that the only way the people I know who find good GC find them exclusively by word of mouth. The trouble is, especially right now, is that good GCs are booking a year or more out. If you've got patience for that, go around your neighbourhood and look for new buildings/extensions and ring the doorbell and ask if they'd share the info of their experience and the GC's contact info.
 
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Asshat Foler

2024 FoH Asshat
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Also - blown fiberglass insulation vs fiberglass batts for attic in Florida? (No spray foam)
 

Asshat Foler

2024 FoH Asshat
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So I never use a general contractor, as I do everything myself. It seems that the only way the people I know who find good GC find them exclusively by word of mouth. The trouble is, especially right now, is that good GCs are booking a year or more out. If you've got patience for that, go around your neighbourhood and look for new buildings/extensions and ring the doorbell and ask if they'd share the info of their experience and the GC's contact info.
Why would the county require a GC to redo the roof trusses and now allow my roofer? I mean I need to go ask them but wtf am I supposed to do if they won’t let anyone but a GC do it.
 

lurkingdirk

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Why would the county require a GC to redo the roof trusses and now allow my roofer? I mean I need to go ask them but wtf am I supposed to do if they won’t let anyone but a GC do it.

Trusses are structural. When you get into structural things, the county wants qualified people to do it. This is understandable. If your roofer does great roofs but doesn't do structural thing normally, what's to say he won't screw it up, and your roof collapses once the new roofing goes on?

Now, I said it was understandable, but likely if you agree to inspections you can have whomever you want do the actual trusses. That'll slow your project down a lot as opposed to getting a contractor with a proven track record to submit the plan, get it approved, and be done with it.

edit: Hateyou Hateyou is completely correct. If you can ever use blown insulation it will always be better than bats. Even in the walls. Plenty of people I know have blown insulation into the walls of their older homes. Makes a huge difference. And it beats bats in efficiency by quite a lot.
 
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Asshat Foler

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Trusses are structural. When you get into structural things, the county wants qualified people to do it. This is understandable. If your roofer does great roofs but doesn't do structural thing normally, what's to say he won't screw it up, and your roof collapses once the new roofing goes on?

Now, I said it was understandable, but likely if you agree to inspections you can have whomever you want do the actual trusses. That'll slow your project down a lot as opposed to getting a contractor with a proven track record to submit the plan, get it approved, and be done with it.

edit: Hateyou Hateyou is completely correct. If you can ever use blown insulation it will always be better than bats. Even in the walls. Plenty of people I know have blown insulation into the walls of their older homes. Makes a huge difference. And it beats bats in efficiency by quite a lot.
Well who can I hire to do actual trusses without going through a GC? Skip the middle man.
 

lurkingdirk

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Well who can I hire to do actual trusses without going through a GC? Skip the middle man.

I can't say without being there. The permit folks will likely have a list of approved structural builders, that might be a place to start.
 
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