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Goatface

Goatface

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fyi - after years, home depot finally blocked the buy x get y free hack. you can no longer get one delivered and one sent to store or 2 different stores. they both have to be sent to the same place and can only be returned to store. read some have had luck just returning one, but others said must return both now.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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So

Can someone explain to me the pro's and cons or X vs Y of- building a tiny home on a trailer - Metal vs Wood framing/studs.
 
Kajiimagi

Kajiimagi

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Foler said:
No, actually I’d prefer it not be tuff shed. It’s just extremely difficult to find a shed dealer with good reviews.

This was on tuff sheds lot yesterday. I mean look at that shit. That’s just one… Pretty much every other shed had shoddy workmanship or wood. I will say these were the discounted ones but still, the fuck?

My quote for a 12x20 8 ft high wall lofted gambrel shed with upgraded 12” OC floor joists and a few other things came out to about 15k…

I’d do it myself but work a hfull time job and also run a homestead that I can barely keep up with. It’s like no one does good work these days, no one takes pride in what they build. Compare this to the lofted barn cabin on Cumberland’s website. Tuff shed looks like it’s using a 4x4, meanwhile Cumberland is using something bigger.

View attachment 499089View attachment 499090

I found a shed builder who looked great but they’re 2 hours away and won’t build sheds in my area, they’ll only deliver metal ones.. I don’t want a metal shed.

I’d maybe be open to buying plans. Only PITA is I’d have to make sure they fit code in Florida.

Edit - ya Cumberland doesn’t do Florida. Bummer, they do look good.

Cumberland Buildings

www.cumberlandbuildings.com www.cumberlandbuildings.com
Click to expand...
well poo!
 
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C

Captain Suave

Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
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Siliconemelons said:
So

Can someone explain to me the pro's and cons or X vs Y of- building a tiny home on a trailer - Metal vs Wood framing/studs.
Click to expand...

Weight (wood is heavier) vs cost (metal is more expensive) vs skill (metal is trickier to build) vs durability.
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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Captain Suave said:
Just FYI if anyone's in the Makita LXT ecosystem. Home Depot has a sale running for 2x 5Ah batteries + charger with a "free" tool of your choice for $200. I don't think I've seen a better deal recently. I picked up a multitool, and I already owned the blower and love it.

www.homedepot.com

Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Battery and Rapid Optimum Charger Starter Pack (5.0Ah) BL1850BDC2 - The Home Depot

For improved tool performance and extended battery life, Makita created Star Protection Computer Controls. Star Protection is communication technology that allows the tool and battery to exchange data
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
does anyone use these tool bags that come w/ these bundles? i have like 3 ryobi bags i just have in storage
 
Goatface

Goatface

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Lanx said:
does anyone use these tool bags that come w/ these bundles? i have like 3 ryobi bags i just have in storage
Click to expand...
1699364580514.png

have a bag like this that came with saw, but has couple of zipper pockets. is the only bag/tool i used for daily storage. the others i just have hanging around for when i need to carry tools somewhere.
 
Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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I guess this can go here…

So I’m looking for a laser level to map contour lines and also to use for prepping grade for structures. I think a rotary laser is the way to go from my research, especially for mapping contour lines. My budget is 1k max. Any suggestions? Been eyeing this one

Amazon product ASIN B07B8YW75P
 
Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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Tuff shed got back to me on a quote. 17k out the door for 12x20 gambrel shed. A few upgrades that should have been standard like 12” OC floor joists. I can’t say I’m super thrilled about what I’m getting for the price but it kinda is what it is at this point.

Also was doing some research yesterday and a lot of people saying never to use a shed builder who won’t pull their own permits.. Something about liability. Tuff shed will pull permits which is great because I really hate dealing with the county.

Shed will look like this except different color and doors.

Image 11-5-23 at 9.22 AM.jpeg


My question is - do I keep their steel floor joists or go wood? Apparently steel floor joists make the shed impossible to move because they pretty much fold up when moving… On the other hand I’m debating how likely it is to move a shed this big.
 
TheNozz

TheNozz

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So in my 91 year old grandmas back yard, she has a dual hose valve attached to the back of the house.
IMG_8226.jpeg

Is it possible, through simple plumbing joints and pipes, to extend the valve up so it reaches the back porch, like this?

IMG_8228.jpeg


And what kind of pipes would I want to use? The water will be used mainly for plants but theoretically also the dog in the future
 
Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
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Yes, assuming based on not using frost proof spigots you don't get below freezing there?

Otherwise it's just cooper which is a bitch to solder well but certainly possible. It would probably be easiest to unsolder at the tee and just build up a new run. Just need to make sure it's supported since it would be heavy.

Alternatively... You could just attach a hose to a reel on the porch with a valve on it.
 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Electricity update: My brother thinks he has it isolated to the neutral between the service and the first sub panel on the leg that has been acting up. It seems to be connected but not really able to carry current. He disconnected both ends of the wire from the panels and was able to measure continuity to ground from both ends. He thinks there's some sort of gizmo that can put a signal on the wire that can be detected from above the ground to trace the cable and possibly find the break in it? Anyone know what that's called? He dug up the repaired wire he remembered which did happen to be the neutral in question, but the repair shows no signs of damage so it must be somewhere else. Probably ought to just bury a new wire but without knowing exactly where the old ones are it's going to be a hassle.
 
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Kajiimagi

Kajiimagi

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BrutulTM said:
Electricity update: My brother thinks he has it isolated to the neutral between the service and the first sub panel on the leg that has been acting up. It seems to be connected but not really able to carry current. He disconnected both ends of the wire from the panels and was able to measure continuity to ground from both ends. He thinks there's some sort of gizmo that can put a signal on the wire that can be detected from above the ground to trace the cable and possibly find the break in it? Anyone know what that's called? He dug up the repaired wire he remembered which did happen to be the neutral in question, but the repair shows no signs of damage so it must be somewhere else. Probably ought to just bury a new wire but without knowing exactly where the old ones are it's going to be a hassle.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you are in the correct direction. There is a tester that does what you need but I cannot for the life of me remember wtf it's called. Is this cable copper or aluminum? If it's aluminum and you plan on living there for a while I'd bite the bullet and run a new one. Aluminum + moisture = corrosion.
FYI I don't hate aluminum cable I'm just being realistic.
 
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Haus

Haus

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Erronius said:
Another thing I was thinking about at work...I don't think I've mentioned these in this thread before...

I have some old VACO screwdrivers at work. The ones that hold flat tip screws. I have to use a lot of stainless steel hardware (so magnetic tips don't work), sometimes they're in really hard to reach places, and these are pretty fucking handy. I don't need to use them often enough that I just leave them out on the bench 24/7, but I know exactly where they are.

There's a lot of different makes and models. I might buy some for my personal tool set.

s-l960.jpg


Click to expand...

I have a set of these, and utterly love them for when tinkering on things.

Foler said:
Why is it so hard to find a good shed builder? Tuff shed is overpriced and limited customization. I realize building a shed is a trivial endeavor in learning framing. I’d love to do it but I don’t feel like I have the time. I need something that’s 12-14x24 ft.
Click to expand...
You can literally buy a kit with all the metal parts and a list of what to cut to what size to build a shed. You've probably spent more time trying to find someone to do it for you than it would have taken you by now....
 
Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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Haus said:
I have a set of these, and utterly love them for when tinkering on things.


You can literally buy a kit with all the metal parts and a list of what to cut to what size to build a shed. You've probably spent more time trying to find someone to do it for you than it would have taken you by now....
Click to expand...
I think I already mentioned that places like 84 lumbers among others have kits like this. I also think I already mentioned that I don’t have time to dedicate to this project as I’m spinning other ones on my plate at the moment. Thanks for the insight though.
 
lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

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TheNozz said:
So in my 91 year old grandmas back yard, she has a dual hose valve attached to the back of the house.
View attachment 499828
Is it possible, through simple plumbing joints and pipes, to extend the valve up so it reaches the back porch, like this?

View attachment 499829

And what kind of pipes would I want to use? The water will be used mainly for plants but theoretically also the dog in the future
Click to expand...

Palum said:
Yes, assuming based on not using frost proof spigots you don't get below freezing there?

Otherwise it's just cooper which is a bitch to solder well but certainly possible. It would probably be easiest to unsolder at the tee and just build up a new run. Just need to make sure it's supported since it would be heavy.

Alternatively... You could just attach a hose to a reel on the porch with a valve on it.
Click to expand...

Those spigots look like they are twist off, so theoretically you could unscrew it, put a "T" in there, and then extend the pipe up to the porch. Easier than sweating the copper. You can get pex fittings that would be compatible, or you could sweat copper without cutting into the existing copper that way. Either option would be entirely potable providing the water getting to the spigot is.
 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Well. There it is. Amazingly only about 5 feet away from the sub panel. If this is the only problem we lucked out.

1000003440.jpg
 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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BrutulTM said:
Well. There it is. Amazingly only about 5 feet away from the sub panel. If this is the only problem we lucked out.

View attachment 500284
Click to expand...
I spoke too soon. Turns out this is actually downstream from the first sub panel. We completely disconnected that cable from the panel and the voltages are still floating so I guess there's something wrong with the neutral coming down from the service as well as this one. Crazy that anything has been working at all.
 
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