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Khane

Khane

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Ok, so to tag onto the window insulation kit talk from earlier. What are the best (as in easiest to install and insulate well, indoor kits? I have really stupid windows by the way so I need large kits (my windows are side by side with a depression in the center, so I need to cover both with one sheet to maximize efficiency and prevent any leakage). Windows are 8' wide by 2.5' high. Also I live on the second floor and there is no way in hell I'm getting on a ladder to do outdoor kits.
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

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Xarpolis

Xarpolis

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I never bothered to show you pictures of the installation of the new bathroom vent ducts. Here you go.

FVIuYwm.jpg

This shows the ductwork running through my attic, after popping out from under the flooring.
It isn't the elevated duct running through the middle of the screen. It's actually the lower one sitting on the insulation. That's from my master bathroom, and there's another duct running just to the left of this image for the other upstairs bathroom.

9OsKgji.jpg

And this shows the vents that I installed, as well as the replaced soffiting. I'm really pleased with how everything worked out.
 
Khane

Khane

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Olebass_sl said:
3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window - Weatherproofing Window Insulation Kits - Amazon.comOpps edit- Select Patio option.
Going to be your best bet then. You could do 2 sets of those wide windows with this kit, just cut the film in half longways.
May need to add3M Indoor Insulator Film Mounting Tape, .5-Inch by 13.8-Yard - Masking Tape - Amazon.comsince you are going to be using more tape than planned although I think the kit comes with enough even then.
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If I get a heavier guage plastic roll instead of the window kits will the tape you linked be sturdy enough to hold it in place? I'm debating doing that instead of buying these cheap, thin kits. I don't give a shit if I can't see out the windows in the winter. I don't get home until after dark anyway.
 
Xarpolis

Xarpolis

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There's already 9ish inches of insulation up there. Do you really need more than that? I guess with how warm we keep our house (74 winter, 75 summer), it might be a good idea. In other news, my Aprilaire Humidifier is kicking ass. Keeping the house a constant 45% humidity. I don't recall ever showing the install on the Aprilaire. I did it all myself. Spent probably 15 hours making sure everything was perfect. I'm not an HVAC guy, so I knew it would take a lot longer, but much better then spending $600 to get it installed by someone else. I even put a divider in the middle of my return duct so that the wet humid air from the humidifier gets diverted straight into the furnace, and the humidistat only sees air coming in from the return ducts of the house. Really pleased with how it worked out.

r8zlF6M.jpg

This was my old humidifier that came with the heat pump when I bought it 7 years ago. It's mounted on the opposite side of the furnace that the newer Aprilaire. Notice the black basin on the bottom of it. Such a pain in the ass. I'm glad they no longer make this style.

olVsPF6.jpg

This was the new Aprilaire right after mounting it with the new duct work. Please note that this wasn't a finished install, as I didn't have the drain hose connected at the time. I'm a lot happier with this basin-less system, as I never have to scrub out the nasty gunk/calcium that grew in the old basin. Now I just close the pin water feed thing and replace the filter. Much easier.

kk8FjWv.jpg

This is the Humidistat right after I finished the installation last winter after my old unit died. You can see in this picture how I closed off the "old" humidifier holes to make the new one work. I used 16 gauge aluminum, as I'm not worried about oxidation, and it'll never rust the way Galvanized still can.
 
Deathwing

Deathwing

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Khane_sl said:
If I get a heavier guage plastic roll instead of the window kits will the tape you linked be sturdy enough to hold it in place? I'm debating doing that instead of buying these cheap, thin kits. I don't give a shit if I can't see out the windows in the winter. I don't get home until after dark anyway.
Click to expand...
Wait, do you replace these kits every winter?
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

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Ahh man I am jelly of that humidiier.

I was guessing you had about 10 inches based on the trusses.
For where you live they suggest NOW R49 to R60 which is 17 to 20 inches. As I said a few pages back this is newer due to thermal imaging.You could get some open faced and cross roll if you don't want blown in and just insulate the areas off the flooring since the plywood itself insulates that area some.

rrr_img_81494.jpg
rrr_img_81495.jpg
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

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Deathwing_sl said:
Wait, do you replace these kits every winter?
Click to expand...
Yes. Last winter I spent about $25 on them but probably saved $200+ due to how cold and windy it was last year. These are most effective for people with crappy fitting aluminum windows which has air gaps around the window sashes and people like me with single pane windows.



Khane-The tape is most effective in these kits due to the fact they do hold months if you clean the frame prior for good bond. Most tapes dig into the paint after days/weeks which makes removal a bitch. These however remove with little effort and I have yet for it to remove the paint with it. As for holding a heavy plastic I am not sure. Why the heavier plastic? It will be easier to see and won't provide much insulating over the thin. Unless you are like me and have pets.
 
Khane

Khane

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Olebass_sl said:
Yes. Last winter I spent about $25 on them but probably saved $200+ due to how cold and windy it was last year. These are most effective for people with crappy fitting aluminum windows which has air gaps around the window sashes and people like me with single pane windows.



Khane-The tape is most effective in these kits due to the fact they do hold months if you clean the frame prior for good bond. Most tapes dig into the paint after days/weeks which makes removal a bitch. These however remove with little effort and I have yet for it to remove the paint with it. As for holding a heavy plastic I am not sure. Why the heavier plastic? It will be easier to see and won't provide much insulating over the thin. Unless you are like me and have pets.
Click to expand...
The heavier plastic because it will be cheaper. Cost is the only reason.
 
Julian The Apostate

Julian The Apostate

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Xarpolis_sl said:
I never bothered to show you pictures of the installation of the new bathroom vent ducts. Here you go.
Click to expand...
You may want to atleast cover/wrap the metal piping with insulation so that the moisture doesn't condensate as much on the metal when the attic is cold and then leak through the seams of the metal piping.
 
Lejina

Lejina

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I do the plastic thing every winter and it's definitely a good move. Pays for itself in a single month. Saves on power bills and the house is more comfortable since there's less temperature swings in the house. There's several windows I leave it on all year long, less work when the next winter comes and it's extra insulation for the AC in summer anyway.


With that said, this is the first time I do it in this particular house (bought it last July). Weird thing: I have condensation on all the north windows. I mean, on the pane of glass, where I can't reach because it is sealed off by the plastic.

I opened the two windows I could open and wiped the glass by reaching in from outside the house, hopefully that takes care of the moisture that was lingering between the window and the plastic. The others tho, there isn't much I can do without tearing my plastic wrap job and doing it all over again, in hope that doesn't happen again. Wondering if leaving some desiccant in there might help, tho if the windows are even a tiny bit drafty it's just going to suck moisture from outside the house and then will be saturated and useless.

This is the 4th house I plastic wrap the windows like that for winter and I've never seen anything like that before.
 
Lejina

Lejina

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I figured maybe the house is just damp and I should get a dehumidifier. Bought a digital hygrometer and checked the humidity levels in every rooms. Pretty much square at 50% in the entire house and the basement is even drier somehow.

I guess my windows are just really shitty =/
 
Xarpolis

Xarpolis

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Basements are usually dry, air wise. They don't get a lot of circulation the way normal rooms do, so it doesn't share in the humidity.
 
Lejina

Lejina

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Makes sense put that way. Shower and cooking steam doesn't travel down there as much.

My first instinct was assuming it would be more humid as a result of moisture coming in thru the concrete. Wrong I was.
 
Oldbased

Oldbased

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I wouldn't worry much about it. It is caused by horrible windows, but also things like if your house was well insulated/house wrapped and has good seals on doors and window frames I've seen it do it simply because it is the only place of thermal difference or air outside compared to air inside. It could also be low circulation near the windows due to blinds, curtains and whatnot or not enough air movement to prevent moisture collecting due to that temperature difference. It happens the same way AC ducts condensate and cause water/mold issues if they are not properly wrapped and sealed from the air just less harmful as it is happening on glass.
 
D

Draegan_sl

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Alright. Floors done. Window/door trim done. Heater boxes done finally:

HupCcym.jpg




To do:
Floor trim.
Replace Ceiling
Replace Pot lights with LED pot lights
Wait for new porch door installation next week.
Trim out new door.
Paint eveeeerrryhting.
Done.

Give me 10 days.
 
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