Home Improvement

I don't have any painted counters. Just a large window sill and this half wall. And shortly, we'll have a painted pantry type of thing. Does the Marquee stuff ever fully cure? IE - If you paint a window sill and let it dry for like a month, then put plate down and pick it up the next day, will it make the sticking sound? I just took a quick video to explain it a little better.



EDIT: Oh shit, you can tell that I'm white in this video! And hear my voice as well. My poor anonymity.

Go sound bar and get some wireless speakers. While they're technically wireless, they still need to be plugged into an AC outlet, but if you have one in the rear of the room, that will give you the 3D effect to go well with the sound bar.

Xarpolis_sl said:

I don't have any painted counters. Just a large window sill and this half wall. And shortly, we'll have a painted pantry type of thing. Does the Marquee stuff ever fully cure? IE - If you paint a window sill and let it dry for like a month, then put plate down and pick it up the next day, will it make the sticking sound? I just took a quick video to explain it a little better.



EDIT: Oh shit, you can tell that I'm white in this video! And hear my voice as well. My poor anonymity.

Click to expand...

Marquee cures and dries in about 20 minutes from my experience even though it says a hour. I actually have to clean out my brush every 30 minutes cutting in houses/outside due to this. It is rain ready on the exterior version in under a hour.
I cannot stress how good it is. It is costly as hell though.

How Behr MARQUEE Paint Saved My Marriage - Reinvention Girl<------ She is right, it flows the best and has the least difference between brush cut in /roll I've seen and I've been painting almost 30 years.
BEHR MARQUEE® One-Coat Color Collection - YouTube<----- I went from faded white aluminum to burnt orange/red in 1 coat painting gables 25 feet up few months back. I made bank on that job as usually it takes 2-3 coats of other paints.

Finally watch this last video. Yes it is 3 minutes but I tested this myself. Dirt does not stick to it, in fact I couldn't find anything that did.
Behr Marquee Paint Quality Demonstration - YouTube

BEHR Paints Marquee TV Commercial, 'The Science' - iSpot.tvThis shows what they did testing it where they pelted it days with pellets/dirt I saw a much better video the last Pro meeting, and the next one is on the 20th I'll see if I can dig up a link.

Seriously again there is no better paint for anything. I stir this paint up with my dick I love it so much but even with my 20% off exterior runs me over $40 after taxes per gallon, but it covers so well and goes so far I actually save money even over using Behr Prem Ultra.


As to why it happened read down in the comments here and the horror stories, some as many 10 years later of sticking paints.
Paints are much better now than then. Hell back then Behr wasn't that great of a paint IMO. Now it is the best hands down. Porter/PPG is watered down shit, and Sherwin is a thick syrup that looks like shit. Valspar is middle of the road but better than PPG now imo.

I wonder if Behr makes an epoxy enamel style. If so, I might give them a try in our paint shop.

They do make a floor coating epoxy and some other uses. I've actually found Rustoleum works better for that application though.

Ok, we'll continue to use Sherwin Williams or PPG. The stuff is between 80 and 150 a gallon (if it's a custom color it's a lot more expensive), but at least it works well. Not as good as powder coating, but the next best thing. Plus, you can paint plastics.

So I found out one of my LED drivers is broken. I think. No matter which way I install it, it doesn't work. The light is plugged into the driver like a 12V adapter thing you'd get for a laptop. I forget the name of the connection. Other side of the drive is wired into the normal Live/Neutral wiring.

I need to buy a new light and have one light out of four different. Find a way to get a new driver. or something. I need one of those potentiometers to test the wiring too I guess. It gets power though, I know that.

Not quite home improvement, but I have a couple monitor lizard cages I need to spruce up one I got off craigs and build another. (8ftx4x4). The interior is my problem. These things need to handle high heat 80's as well as especially in the big one, high humidity 60-70%. The plan is not just the usual cheap hideous plywood and non framed sliding plate glass that is common. Fortunately there are some examples (can't upload/link them from work right now) of making them actually classy to fit into the nice areas of a house.

The existing cage is a 4x2x2? and is melamine boards and already has some fixtures and such in place. Some of the coating outside the cage is chipped. My rough plan is since I'm a terrible painter, is why not coat the thing in either laminate flooring or vinyl. Or was debating tile. ( Or a crosshatch of tile/laminate boards) Options are either just dark grain wood, vs some of those dyed like darker stone colors. (Not sure how to describe but basically something more eye catching than typical bathroom/kitchen tile)

The inside I've yet to decide, because in addition to those. (And I've seen them in person/know they work.) Is I can also get one of those electic wire cutters for polystyrene and make textured fake rock backgrounds as the ackie monitor would appreciate something like that to climb on. (Amazing enclosures all over this guys pagehttps://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...0584307&type=3)


Guess the actual point/question whether underneath a textured background vs over the top of a tile/vinyl/plank wall, any particular suggestions on what to seal and protect the underlying wood structure from the humidity? I was told I need a like marine polyeurathane sealer? Is there a particular brand that has like the far and away better durable clear coat like the Behr stories recently talked about. ?

EDIT: Nevermind I think I figured it out, the water dripping out is warm/hot and when I squeeze the hot water handle a bit more it slows the drop a bit. So I think it's the washer/rubber seals in the hot water handle doo hicky.

So it wasn't the washers/seals in the hot water handle. So I guess it's the shower valve.

I don't see anything on my shower assembly that tells me what company manufactures it, where can I find that? Also, how difficult is it to change out a shower valve?

Here's what's happening. When I turn the shower/tub off I have a steady drip from the tub faucet. This water is warm. When I turn the water on and then switch it to shower I get a steady stream of water that still comes out of the tub faucet and both the cold and hot water handles leak water as well. I don't know wtf is wrong with it but I don't feel like calling a plumber because every goddamn plumber in my area charges a base of like $200 and then another $100/hr. It's retarded. Even if they are only there for 30 minutes it will end up costing me like $250.

You will have to shut off your water and get a valve removal tool. They sell those in HD/Lowes/anyplace that sells the valves.
You remove the screw in the handle and slide off the protective ring. Undo the nut and some need a tool some don't, pull out the old valve and take it to HD/Lowes, match it up with the 100 or so choices there. You will usually find a part number on the old one to make it easier, line it up push it in reverse install handle.

If you have a large ring where the handle is, you can remove it and see it on the valve assembly who it belongs to. Chances are it is a Delta or Moen. Expect to pay $7 or so for the socket removal tool and about $10 for a new valve.

Or here I guess they got videos for everything.
How To Replace and Install A Shower Valve Cartridge - Smarter How to Tips - YouTube

And for handle types:
Shower Faucet Repair (thorough step by step.) - YouTube

Ole,

Next year I was thinking about running hot and cold water out to a hose on my deck. The reason for hot also is we randomly fill a kiddy pool for my daughter, and life would just be easier if we're able to put hot from a hose instead of carrying pot after pot from the house.

I was wondering if there was any sort of Y style valve that I can connect both hot and cold into (with a variable lever so I can use a little from each) and have it exit into a single slot.
Thanks in advance.

Several ways to go about that. I've seen recirculation valves most for the new tankless systems but also places where water could freeze.
For me the best way would to run a hot outside near a cold existing valve with a shutoff. This way you could control all cold/all hot or a combination of between.
Then from the 2 faucets you could use| RONAor many of the other splitters to go to one hose.

My other concern is temp where you are. Are Spigots up there common on houses?
We run into issues in Ky even with frost-freeze spigots and use insulation covers.

Yes, they are common. However, people are supposed to shut off the water leading to said spigot from inside of their house then leave the spigot turned on prior to winter, just to save it from freezing.

That's something I was planning on doing anyway with this setup. I was just trying to get an idea about a Y valve thing for it. the Rona thing in your link isn't quite what I'm after. I'll look around.

Looking at pictures online, something like this would be awesome, but only if you could take partial flow from each side into your main. That doesn't seem to be the case, but you at least get the idea.

If you want partial flow then what I linked or something along those lines is your best bet. You basically want a faucet with a garden hose 3/4 fitting as a spout and outside your house.
If you are going to shut it off anyways you could put a sink outside I guess or if you had a garage you could put a basin in there with a long hose attachable.

They make control valves like you posted for each side but you still have to get water to both sides which is why I thought 2 spigots with a y connector between them flexible would be your best bet that way you have complete control over hot/cold because you are not going to want to use hot all the time, and sometimes maybe only the hot.

So never by shitty lights. I had to redo all the electrical on Friday. Good thing that I was able to worm my hand sup into the ceiling and remove the boxes. Proper install now.

All that is left is a few more pieces of wood to put trim on the bottom of the doorway.
Cleanup
Caulk
Paint
Cleanup

So close.

Why not? That's something I haven't heard previously.