Using foam boards and furring for drywall is more energy friendly because otherwise the framing acts as a thermal bridge.
Home Improvement
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Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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Thanks for all the info. I was checking out this video and think I might follow it for my walls.
How to Insulate a Basement - This Old House - YouTube
How to Insulate a Basement - This Old House - YouTube
Oldbased
> Than U
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Agreed, if he has no water/wick issues then foam board followed by framing with insulation is best way to go.
Rare that there is such a think as a "dry" basement even if it is visibly dry. Concrete is like a sponge. It will pull moisture from dirt, air, groundwater and any place it can. Always assume any concrete material is saturated and plan from there.
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Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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So you guys think it's better to glue foam board on the wall then stud and insulate as well? That's what I was leaning towards. I might even use drylock as well. I used to get water coming through the wall until I waterproofed but it's still a concern I guess. The company did a trench with a water catching system butted up to the bottom of the wall so I can't really let the foam board hit the floor. Don't think that would make much of a difference.
Can any of you recommend a do it yourself type spray foam kit? I want to spray the perimeter of my basement ceiling. I guess where the rim joist would typically be between the rafters. I don't have wood tho, just cinder block with mortar missing. I filled some with the spray foam cans, but I want to cover the whole area. They are about 1sqft in size between each joist so renting something doesn't seem worth it. I looked at a few online but most seem overpriced for how small a job it is. My other option is to just put regular insulation in there. I prefer spray foam as it will seal all the cracks and reduce and chance bugs get in.
Can any of you recommend a do it yourself type spray foam kit? I want to spray the perimeter of my basement ceiling. I guess where the rim joist would typically be between the rafters. I don't have wood tho, just cinder block with mortar missing. I filled some with the spray foam cans, but I want to cover the whole area. They are about 1sqft in size between each joist so renting something doesn't seem worth it. I looked at a few online but most seem overpriced for how small a job it is. My other option is to just put regular insulation in there. I prefer spray foam as it will seal all the cracks and reduce and chance bugs get in.
I saw somewhere they didn't bother gluing the foam and just built a stud wall back out from that and it holds the foam in place. A stud wall is certainly a consideration if you're going to have significant electrical etc to put in place, and don't mind losing the space. I would definitely have the continuous layer of foam board at the wall. I like the idea of drylok. May do that test as shown in your video and see how much you need to be concerned about moisture through the concrete. Probably a lot more likely to have problems with a block basement wall than cast in place like shown in the video.
I had someone speak very highly of one of the great stuff guns that allows reuse of the can. I recently did mine by sealing with cans of great stuff and then stuffing with fiberglass. I can understand your want but it seemed like too much trouble to me as that space was 6 or so inches deep on mine.
I had someone speak very highly of one of the great stuff guns that allows reuse of the can. I recently did mine by sealing with cans of great stuff and then stuffing with fiberglass. I can understand your want but it seemed like too much trouble to me as that space was 6 or so inches deep on mine.
Oldbased
> Than U
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Ya just spot glue the foam if you are building a wall in front. The wall will hold the foam in place. Do tape the joints with a tyvek tape or at worse duct tape. Seal all the seams.
As for spray options, spray foam insulation is still expensive no matter how you do it. It is about 50% what it was just 5 years ago and is expected to keep falling as it is by far the best way to insulate anything and the more it is used/refined the cheaper it gets.
The kind you buy in cans is not controlled/expands too much for practical use for anything but a gap or crack and the other systems will set you back hundreds at the least. You could use spray foam from a can to lightly coat the block THEN put in a piece of batt, probably the best bet for what you are wanting.
As for the foam board/framing, the foam board should also help prevent moisture from reaching batt in the 2x4 framing you put over it,which is what you wish to avoid. Wet batt is bad for mildew/mold and drying.
I would say also from that picture that 1sq ft area you want to seal up is probably the most vital since it is above grade and has thermal transfer.
As for spray options, spray foam insulation is still expensive no matter how you do it. It is about 50% what it was just 5 years ago and is expected to keep falling as it is by far the best way to insulate anything and the more it is used/refined the cheaper it gets.
The kind you buy in cans is not controlled/expands too much for practical use for anything but a gap or crack and the other systems will set you back hundreds at the least. You could use spray foam from a can to lightly coat the block THEN put in a piece of batt, probably the best bet for what you are wanting.
As for the foam board/framing, the foam board should also help prevent moisture from reaching batt in the 2x4 framing you put over it,which is what you wish to avoid. Wet batt is bad for mildew/mold and drying.
I would say also from that picture that 1sq ft area you want to seal up is probably the most vital since it is above grade and has thermal transfer.
Just replaced a 5 ft section of 1.5 threaded galvanized. Luckily i had the room to get a chainlink fence post on it as a cheater bar and then only barely did it turn. There would be no diy plumbing if this shit was still used.
Xarpolis
Life's a Dream
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My wife saw some design online for a "neat looking" coat rack that's attached to the wall. We've had a set of hooks right by our front door ever since we bought this house, but now she wants to change things up. I went ahead and took a picture of the old, and I'll get a picture of the new once it's complete. So far, we're around $165 in material to build this fucking thing. $25 in different cans of wood stain, $59 for 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood, another $65 for hooks, some liquid nail (which didn't work... our wall was really wavey), and some other stuff. Non stop adventure. This neat looking thing has taken hours of my time and it it's only about 50% complete right now. FML. Seriously, how is this "her" project if I'm doing most of it? I made her stain the wood, and that's about the extent of her participation.
This is one of those things where they are so many pre-built options it isn't worth it unless you specifically enjoy the work. Mine has three cubbyholes, four double hooks, and the top is a nice shelf. I got it on Amazon for like $125 on sale.
Oldbased
> Than U
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I'll have to take a picture of my workshop sometime for you. I do build a lot of cabinets/vanities though so I am cheating but I have hundreds of feet of popular, oak, hickory, sanderply in sheets, trim or s4s boards. So every time a new project comes up in the home like a new stand, table, custom aquarium enclosure and whatnot. Off the piles of wood I go!
Xarpolis
Life's a Dream
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I'll show you what she's accomplishing. Very very slowly. The issue is the front door opens up to where this coat rack is mounted, so it has to be extremely thin (like attached to the wall) or else it will interfere with the door.
Here's what we had, and here's what she's started to work on. (Hidden behind spoiler wall due to size)
We still have to attach another 5 or 6 thin boards of different stains to the wall, then put a larger face plate on with the new hooks attached to it. Then finish it up with a little trim.
Here's what we had, and here's what she's started to work on. (Hidden behind spoiler wall due to size)
We still have to attach another 5 or 6 thin boards of different stains to the wall, then put a larger face plate on with the new hooks attached to it. Then finish it up with a little trim.
Oldbased
> Than U
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I see what you mean by space constraint. Is that a exterior wall or a interior wall? I've done some wierd 14.5 inch wide builds into interior walls lately.
Since she is going gungho and you are working floor up, place some hooks down low to hang shoes on when it is muddy cold out, and tile the 4x5 area in front of the door/between stairway to make it a mini mud wall
Since she is going gungho and you are working floor up, place some hooks down low to hang shoes on when it is muddy cold out, and tile the 4x5 area in front of the door/between stairway to make it a mini mud wall
Xarpolis
Life's a Dream
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It's a combination interior/exterior (kind of). I'm in a town house, which is the suburbs way of saying Row Home. That wall (with cinder block immediately behind drywall and a 1x3) is what separates my neighbors house from my own. So yeah, there isn't much room to work.
As far as a shoe rack, my wife is Japanese, and we don't EVER wear shoes inside the house. We have a giant 24 slot shoe rack piece of furniture to the left of this picture. It works quite well. As for muddy shoes, we'll leave them outside on the step then carry them into the basement to clean them off in the laundry tub.
As far as a shoe rack, my wife is Japanese, and we don't EVER wear shoes inside the house. We have a giant 24 slot shoe rack piece of furniture to the left of this picture. It works quite well. As for muddy shoes, we'll leave them outside on the step then carry them into the basement to clean them off in the laundry tub.
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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Anyone dealt with a toilet smelling like sewage? It's more noticable now in the colder months I guess, but our downstairs toilet has this faint smell of raw sewage when I go to take a leak in the morning.
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Could be a couple things, but an easy test is to lift the toilet and replace the wax ring. They can dry out and cause slow leaks that will eventually smell like sewage.
Another possibility is that there is not sufficient venting, and the water in your toilet's trap is being pulled out just enough to let the sewage air escape. Or, if it is in the cold months only, perhaps there is something frozen over the vent stack.
Just a couple thoughts.
Another possibility is that there is not sufficient venting, and the water in your toilet's trap is being pulled out just enough to let the sewage air escape. Or, if it is in the cold months only, perhaps there is something frozen over the vent stack.
Just a couple thoughts.
^ or a nearby unvented sink Or if theres a floor drain the water in the trap has evaporated nearby.
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Heylel
Trakanon Raider
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We have that problem in an unused shower. I periodically go run a little water in it because it doesn't get used often enough to keep the trap full.
In other news, contractor finally started coming back by. Also, the flood level rains we had over the weekend somehow got into our nice new finished basement and destroyed about 1/3 of the new flooring.
Yay nature!
In other news, contractor finally started coming back by. Also, the flood level rains we had over the weekend somehow got into our nice new finished basement and destroyed about 1/3 of the new flooring.
Yay nature!
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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Since I know nothing about toilets or drains I essentially just stared at my screen for 10 minutes nodding in agreement. I'll have to take a look.