Home Improvement

Heylel_sl said:

We have that problem in an unused shower. I periodically go run a little water in it because it doesn't get used often enough to keep the trap full...

Click to expand...

Put a couple of tablespoons of olive/cooking oil down the drain after you fill the trap with water the next time. It will float on the water and prevent evaporation.

That's clever. I never heard that trick before. Good deal.

We got a chance to work on this coat rack project again last night. As of now, the remaining stained boards have been hung on the wall. My wife is still painting the top board/trim pieces (white) and they'll be attached once all the paint has dried.

Well, the largest problem I see is that you built it sideways.

lurkingdirk_sl said:

Well, the largest problem I see is that you built it sideways.

Click to expand...

Haha I was about to say that. Damn you. What's worse is when I saw the window sideways too, or normal in the picture. Damn sliders.

Ok now that I am not breaking my neck, you want the TV recessed in into that cavity and shelving below. Normally when I do this the TV would be hung flush on the outside( just due to existing ) and I run pvc pipe/flex hose through the wall to the cavity below( or in most cases out the side such as over a fireplace into bookshelves for the receiver ) I usually run 2 pipes, 1 for power, other for connections to lessen interference. I am assuming wiring is the only reason you want access to the area behind the tv right?
Pass & Seymour 3-Gang Recessed Wall Box-TV3LVKITWCC2 - The Home Depot
is I what normally use. You can get 1" hose that will allow plugs to travel and still use conduit connections to tie into the 3way box. Also since it is not open to a exterior wall you could use pvc hardpipe.
Now since you want to recess the TV you will simply need to add a header between the shelving area below the TV but above the shelving.
In other words say that is 96" inchs tall as is. Looks like you got a 2x6 header at the top and you want a 60inch TV most of them are 32-38 inches tall without stand if you want to wall mount in cavity, or 45 inches with stand if you want to stand mount it in the cavity. You already lost 5 1/4 for header plus 3/4 to be safe on finish ceiling under header, so 52 inches down you need a header for the tv cavity. Frame it out, and run conduit for wires to a hardbox then install finish materials. Then you won't need access behind TV to run cables and such down to the shelving below for wires and power.

I am getting what you are wanting to do right?

You could do a nice wainscoting around the bottom, and integrate it into built in shelving in the wood of your choice. Then have the television mounted above it on drywall. I've seen this very thing done, and it's a nice look.

Normally I drywall everything including the recess the shelving is in then build the shelving unit as a cabinet and insert into the recess and tie that unit into the drywall frame with either casing/chair rail or 1x2. I am building such this week that will go into this recess pictured below( before and after I built recess ). Cabinet ply is fine, just remember to use scribe to finish the exposed edges. What is going to the right? You could remove one of those studs and make a mini header and make a access there with ply and inside 1x4 to have a flat no trim look on access.
This used to be a flat wall, I recessed it to place 2 36 inch cabinets on top of each other with shelving on side, faced out with a 2 inch trim( this pic is about a month old ) in that bathroom I talked about doing earlier in the thread.

Good windows are expensive as fuck. And you get what you pay for in most cases. What size and style of window are you talking about?

My father owns a clean energy company and one of the things he always tells me is replacing windows is one of the worst investments you can ever make if you're doing it to save on energy bills. Repairing and insulating/sealing is much cheaper and just as effective (if not more). I don't know specifics and I am not engineer so I know nothing about heat transfer, thermal dynamics or anything else but most "experts" tend to agree with that sentiment from what I've seen:

Home Replacement Window Costs | Energy Efficient Windows | HouseLogic

Now, if your windows are irreparable or just the worst windows on earth then maybe that changes things but I really don't know. Single pane is obviously not good for energy efficiency.

In the dining room I would say you might call a window company to make custom thermal broken windows for the sizes you have. They'll be able to install them in the existing openings in most cases if they're not opening windows. And that is replacing glass, rather than whole windows, so it would be lots cheaper.

If you can buy a standard size to fit your opening windows, I'd recommend going to each of the big box stores in your areas, seeing the brands, and then look for reviews. Usually, if you buy them at the store, their installation is a lot cheaper, too, if you aren't going to do it yourself.

If you are willing to do the windows yourself it isn't too bad. A typical double pane egas 32x54 runs me around $150 shipped. If you have a wood brick mold frame outside figure another $20 per window in caulk, 3/4 stop paint and such. If you are going from single pane it will be worth it in the long haul. Now if you pay someone to do it add in another $50-100 per window. If you have or need aluminum add more, if you want triple pane or more features add more.
Most window places I use like Sun/Anderson the upgrade charge for features is small. Like full UV coating is $7 more per window, double security latch with kickouts is $6 more per window and so forth.

I prefer Sun mostly because of the way they weld the vinyl frame.

I should add, the problem with aluminum windows is they are typically harder to remove and frame for replacements. Old wood windows you just chisel out the 3/4 stop around the outside window frame, insert replacement, insulate/caulk, nail a new stop in, caulk and paint.

Every crack deserves some caulk. Be a team player DW.

Roughly on topic. SNL's sketch on caulk.