The House Plants Thread

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popsicledeath

popsicledeath

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I don't know about for crops, but my house plants seem to do well with Coco coir as long as I remember to fertilize.

A couple don't like how much moisture is retained with it, so have to watch that more.

Aside from very rare and generally harmless surface mold the coconut coir doesn't seem to break down as much, attract gnats, get smelly, etc. Which wasn't common anyhow, but a few yes had issues. So has required a lot less maintenance, which is good for me as a negligent and reluctant plant owner.

I'll defer to those with more experience, and interested to hear their perspectives. Particularly with indoor food growing.
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx Lanx

Hydro can be very risky, one systemic infection and the whole crop is fucked. To avoid this you can purchase an additive called "UC Roots" to keep the reservoir cleaner. Also you should have a PH+EC meter especially for rock wool (some brands require you to adjust their PH before you pop seeds) I have had much better success with root plugs from a company called IHort.

Additionally, I use a timer for the light and purchase those fans I spoke of earlier. Any air flow is better than none and will strengthen the stalks overtime. You may need tomatoe cages if they can't support their own weight.

Coco as a medium is fine as long as you don't over irrigate during the first week or two of transplant, which WILL kill the roots and stunt the plant overall.

IHORT IHQPC50 Q Plug Cubes, Bag of 50, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC4C6VV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N4TW5WN2WC3RA2JH3Y32?psc=1
 
Mr_Bungle

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LachiusTZ said:
Shouldn't matter how high the light is in that tent...

Hydro is such a fucking headache.

Oh, nutrient lock out, burns and root rot happens almost instantly etc etc.

Imo go soil, use something like pure blend pro when in flower.

View attachment 378923
Click to expand...
Are you using T5 lights, HPS, or CMH's for these ladies? Just curious as I grow professionally for the medical market.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Mr_Bungle said:
Lanx Lanx

Hydro can be very risky, one systemic infection and the whole crop is fucked. To avoid this you can purchase an additive called "UC Roots" to keep the reservoir cleaner. Also you should have a PH+EC meter especially for rock wool (some brands require you to adjust their PH before you pop seeds) I have had much better success with root plugs from a company called IHort.

Additionally, I use a timer for the light and purchase those fans I spoke of earlier. Any air flow is better than none and will strengthen the stalks overtime. You may need tomatoe cages if they can't support their own weight.

Coco as a medium is fine as long as you don't over irrigate during the first week or two of transplant, which WILL kill the roots and stunt the plant overall.

IHORT IHQPC50 Q Plug Cubes, Bag of 50, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC4C6VV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N4TW5WN2WC3RA2JH3Y32?psc=1
Click to expand...
man all i did was plug that stuff in zipped it up and forgot about it for a few days

i'm trying to use the kratky method where you don't really actively care about it, at most i'll only check in on it every week to add the nutrients based on the schedule.

if i have to do any more than that, this whole "growing" thing isn't gonna work out for me, cuz my green thumb is just that poor, hell i bought that zip up closet not b/c it was recommended as an environment, but so that i don't see the fucking sun eminating from the corner of my room, heh.

but i'll readup on these ph+ec meters, i have a ph meter for regular water... should i get a system with electrodes constantly monitoring?
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx said:
man all i did was plug that stuff in zipped it up and forgot about it for a few days

i'm trying to use the kratky method where you don't really actively care about it, at most i'll only check in on it every week to add the nutrients based on the schedule.

if i have to do any more than that, this whole "growing" thing isn't gonna work out for me, cuz my green thumb is just that poor, hell i bought that zip up closet not b/c it was recommended as an environment, but so that i don't see the fucking sun eminating from the corner of my room, heh.

but i'll readup on these ph+ec meters, i have a ph meter for regular water... should i get a system with electrodes constantly monitoring?
Click to expand...
Honestly, the system that would be constantly monitoring is going to cause you more stress if you're trying to keep it simple. Those probes will need to be cleaned and calibrated at least once a week and will most likely require you to install software on your smartphone to monitor the readings. I would just buy a handheld probe. I like to use the brand Apera because they are easy to maintain and clean.

The biggest thing right now is getting that light on a timer so the plants can perform their dark cycle functions (exchanging gasses, allowing the chloroplasts to rest and a list of hormone changes), and installing the fans at an appropriate height and speed.
 
Mr_Bungle

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popsicledeath said:
I don't know about for crops, but my house plants seem to do well with Coco coir as long as I remember to fertilize.

A couple don't like how much moisture is retained with it, so have to watch that more.

Aside from very rare and generally harmless surface mold the coconut coir doesn't seem to break down as much, attract gnats, get smelly, etc. Which wasn't common anyhow, but a few yes had issues. So has required a lot less maintenance, which is good for me as a negligent and reluctant plant owner.

I'll defer to those with more experience, and interested to hear their perspectives. Particularly with indoor food
Click to expand...

My epiphytic house plants like Coco as they don't rely on actual soil in the wild. Granted they are also in a planter made from weaved coconut fibers to allow maximum airflow around the root zone.

Make sure that the Coco isn't packed down in the pot before you plant anything, only a GENTILE push from the top of the media to push out any large air pockets.

The act of watering should eliminate any other micro pockets of air. Additionally, a one gallon pot with a brand new fully rooted transplant should only need about 500ml (one solo cup) of feed every few days to start. DO NOT ACHIEVE POURTHROUGH for the first week or so, the plant will not have enough biomass to wick away the excess moisture.

The idea is to hydrate the plant just enough to live, encouraging and teasing the roots to search for more water before you increase irrigation. Once the plants have adapted to their new pot and require daily watering, feel free to irrigate until pour through.

Furthermore, you can always measure the runoff water's PH and EC to see what's in the root zone. Higher ECs will cause build up that will need occasional flushing. I recommend a product called "SLF 100" that can be mixed with regular water and PH'ed to a 6.0 for better results. Always reinoculate the media half an hour after flushing with fresh feed.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Mr_Bungle said:
Honestly, the system that would be constantly monitoring is going to cause you more stress if you're trying to keep it simple. Those probes will need to be cleaned and calibrated at least once a week and will most likely require you to install software on your smartphone to monitor the readings. I would just buy a handheld probe. I like to use the brand Apera because they are easy to maintain and clean.

The biggest thing right now is getting that light on a timer so the plants can perform their dark cycle functions (exchanging gasses, allowing the chloroplasts to rest and a list of hormone changes), and installing the fans at an appropriate height and speed.
Click to expand...
yea dawg is 18hrs of sunlight good?

the fan has no speed, and i just put the fan on top of the box it came in, since that was the perfect height for the closet since it had several accessports with drawstrings for the fan.
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx said:
yea dawg is 18hrs of sunlight good?

the fan has no speed, and i just put the fan on top of the box it came in, since that was the perfect height for the closet since it had several accessports with drawstrings for the fan.
Click to expand...

I would say 18 hours is the max. Anything past that shows diminishing returns. If 18 is too aggressive I would do an even 12 of light and 12 of dark.
 
Big Phoenix

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Probably last Okra flower of the year;

1635441141473.png


I had 4 planted summer of 2020. I didnt pull them up going into the winter of 2020 as I wanted to see if they would live. Surprisingly 3 of them did, but they never recovered to their original state and eventually all but 1 died over the course of the summer.

Also this guy decided to sprout and start growing in my front yard;

1635441346928.png
 
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Furry

Furry

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Serpens said:
Congrats on the new place. Still have the adeniums but they are not thriving. They are slow growing and not flowering and just figured out they have a mealy bug infestation. I've sprayed them with a diluted liquid soap solution and I think it's working. Hopefully they will improve.
Click to expand...

I think I posted when my adenium first flowered here. They are cool plants, but they are so easy to murder with water.
 
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Lanx

Lanx

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Mr_Bungle said:
I would say 18 hours is the max. Anything past that shows diminishing returns. If 18 is too aggressive I would do an even 12 of light and 12 of dark.
Click to expand...
wth, this sounds like tuning a car, i'll go with 12/12 for now i guess it's easy enough to program into the timer sunup to sunset.
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx said:
wth, this sounds like tuning a car, i'll go with 12/12 for now i guess it's easy enough to program into the timer sunup to sunset.
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Programming timers is absurdly easy don't fret over it. Once you get used to the routine it'll be like second nature, that thumb will turn green as your confidence grows. My father always told me, "You aren't a grower until you've killed some plants". Believe me I've had some serious fuck ups.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Mr_Bungle said:
Programming timers is absurdly easy don't fret over it. Once you get used to the routine it'll be like second nature, that thumb will turn green as your confidence grows. My father always told me, "You aren't a grower until you've killed some plants". Believe me I've had some serious fuck ups.
Click to expand...
yea try programming an alexa timer lulz, i have to make it say "turn on plants(thats what i called the switch)
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx said:
yea try programming an alexa timer lulz, i have to make it say "turn on plants(thats what i called the switch)
Click to expand...
Ugh... now Bezos knows what you're crop cycle is. Luckily I use the digital timers that plug into the wall.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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week2, this is the first time i've opened up the closet in a week
20211031_144922.jpg


looks like i have 1 derpy plant in the back, i peeled back the masking tape (this is where i put the nutrients in) and the roots are in the water, so i guess i'll just leave it.

i heard i should try having an airstone in there to provide some agitation if i'm only doing 1 bucket. usually for kratky ppl do this en masse so it's not as cheap to add an air stone. i don't care about that, i just want it to be set it and forget it for a 1week, so i ordered a quiet one(even tho the fan is a fucking leaf blower) from amazon to see how that'll go
 
Lanx

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update, the top right one shrivled up and died, like it feels like a dried leaf, the 5 others are fine, anything i did wrong? or that was just a weak seed?
 
Mr_Bungle

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Lanx Lanx

What does the rest of the plant look like? Specifically the root system. It's very possible it was a less vigor seed. However, we should not rule out the possibility of root disease. They should be bright white with little to no brown strands or spots.

However any additional information about the environmental conditions are always appreciated.

What is the PH of the feed? Does the bucket or feed have any biofilm on the inside?
 
Lanx

Lanx

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Mr_Bungle said:
Lanx Lanx

What does the rest of the plant look like? Specifically the root system. It's very possible it was a less vigor seed. However, we should not rule out the possibility of root disease. They should be bright white with little to no brown strands or spots.

However any additional information about the environmental conditions are always appreciated.

What is the PH of the feed? Does the bucket or feed have any biofilm on the inside?
Click to expand...
whats biofilm? like alge? i didn't think i'd need to test the water since it's pure ro water and i can't find my ph meter, guess i should another then if it's that essential
 
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